Actually, if you compare the problems reported on the authentic and clone DNA40 boards themselves the clones appear to be far less problematic. As for the enclosures and wiring, I don't think the clones are much more problematic than the authentic.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Apologies to whoever was on the wrong end of this but that is really funny! No fire button...lololol
Ok those dates are very close didn't know that, but it's inherent on cloning to be fast I think they can't wait to long, the product must hit the shelves soon as possible.
BTW do you know if they cloned the crappy gnd loopwire from the original VF 2.1 or was it their own solution? personally I think the last.
I was just curious to find out who invented that cheap solution and also why.
It reminds me of the times when I was working at the car electrics years ago
That didn't take long. Hasn't happened to me yet, but try looking back at TheBloke's struggles when he got his, maybe its something like that with the ground.
Yeah, first step is to see if all four screws on top are tight. Second step is to take out the batteries, then remove all four screws on top, and carefully clean the underside of the top plate where it mates with the main body (mild abrasive pad and alcohol is good for this), and make sure the ground cable looped around the 510 is making good contact (a quick fix is to poke it in with a flatblade screwdriver). While in there, be careful around the ribbon cable for the display, it can be easily broken and the ground wire runs right by it. Once it's cleaned and you've done the best you can on the 510, screw it back together, making sure the screws are nice and tight (use a good tool to avoid camming out the head of the screws).
Optionally, you can run a bead of solder between the 510 cable and the brass nut to ensure a better connection, but I'd hold off on that, as that will for sure void your warranty as it's easy to spot, just taking the top off and cleaning things is not.
Before putting the batteries back in, clean the contact side of the battery cap, and the threads on both the battery caps and inside the flask as best you can (once again isopropyl alcohol is handy for this, as is an abrasive plastic pad). Use a paper towel to wipe up the alcohol, and keep at it until you stop seeing black on the towel.
Put the batteries back in, cross your fingers, and hit the fire switch.
Optionally, you can run a bead of solder between the 510 cable and the brass nut to ensure a better connection, but I'd hold off on that, as that will for sure void your warranty as it's easy to spot, just taking the top off and cleaning things is not.
Before putting the batteries back in, clean the contact side of the battery cap, and the threads on both the battery caps and inside the flask as best you can (once again isopropyl alcohol is handy for this, as is an abrasive plastic pad). Use a paper towel to wipe up the alcohol, and keep at it until you stop seeing black on the towel.
Put the batteries back in, cross your fingers, and hit the fire switch.
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Yeah a major symptom of mine was not turning on, then I could often get it to work a little better (turn on but not vape; turn on and vape but not for long; etc) by tapping around the top of the mod, on and near the top plate.
The first, easiest fix is to .. read what Croak just posted!
I think part of the problem was that Waidea had primarily worked on cloning Mech Mods and only minor electronic mod work was done for other companies as a behind the scenes producer on a limited basis to someone else's specifications. The VF V3 ChiNA40 TC 1:1 was a pretty ambitious project for them on their own and they did a really good job cloning the flask itself. There were an awful lot of specialty parts that you just couldn't get off the rack.
The 510 itself was only produced at beginning of March (prior to that it didn't even have a slot) and they rushed it to market. I don't think that loop was necessarily a cost saving measure so much as a way to start selling them right after CNY without waiting for the proper ring terminals or a floating pin to arrive. (Why they didn't just thread the 510 as M7x0.5mm all the way through so we could just thread a FDV Shorty core in and add our own floating pin, I'll never understand). I'm sure they meant for the loop to go under the 510 nut but the untrained staff throwing them together found it difficult to tighten the nut and keep the loop from twisting so they just put it on afterward figuring it would be good enough.
The 510 itself was only produced at beginning of March (prior to that it didn't even have a slot) and they rushed it to market. I don't think that loop was necessarily a cost saving measure so much as a way to start selling them right after CNY without waiting for the proper ring terminals or a floating pin to arrive. (Why they didn't just thread the 510 as M7x0.5mm all the way through so we could just thread a FDV Shorty core in and add our own floating pin, I'll never understand). I'm sure they meant for the loop to go under the 510 nut but the untrained staff throwing them together found it difficult to tighten the nut and keep the loop from twisting so they just put it on afterward figuring it would be good enough.
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^^^^ Could it be then that one might just re-position it under the nut?
I'm trying to avoid opening mine up as I'll probably go full tilt on it, need to order some sockets first.
I'm trying to avoid opening mine up as I'll probably go full tilt on it, need to order some sockets first.
Ok so my waidea has been working great for last two days until this evening I get a low ohm message after letting it sit for a while. If I unscrew the atty and put it back on everything is fine. It seems that if I tighten it down to much it gives the message but if I don't tighten it down I don't. Is this a symptom of the ground issue? Other than this it seems to work great I mean really good. Once I unscrew the atty and put it back on all is great again. Could this be that reg register thing or what ever it's called in a earlier post in this thread?
By the way I am running this in TP mode.
By the way I am running this in TP mode.
First thing to do of course is check that atty and build carefully, ideally including on other mods. Rule out any problems with that atty and that particular build, then see if you can re-create the problems on the VF with other builds on that atty, and other builds on other attys.
If the problems persist with multiple builds and attys, and can't be re-created on other mods, then it would sound like an issue with the VF:
I don't know if the low resistance warning could be a symptom of the usual ground issue. What I do know is that (assuming your problems persist) you're only the second person to report that particular symptom, the first being me. And I didn't (only) have the ground issue, I had an actual piece of loose wire in the internals of the 510 connection. I had Low Resistance only at the start of my problems, and I believe that was because that loose piece of wire temporarily formed an internal bridge on the 510. Then the wire must have moved and caused the more general ground symptoms, like device not turning on, saying Weak Battery all the time, etc.
And that happened to me when I tightened down an atty harder than I had others before then (though this was still only 15 minutes after I started using the VF, so it didn't take long.) My problems got much worse from there, it didn't resolve when I unscrewed the atty like yours is.
Maybe the Low Resistance could be caused by ground as well - someone else like Croak will comment on that. But it's definitely not being reported generally, unlike the other ground symptoms. So if it continues happening you might need to consider examining the internals of the 510. That will not void your warranty so long as you're careful.
But first verify that there's definitely a general issue with the VF, not with the atty or the current build.
It is essentially saying "short". Does it do the same with other atties? You may have answered this already and I missed it.
I had one a couple of days ago, a ni200 build, that was reading 0.12Ω but I guess a couple of coils touched resulting in a 0.07 reading and I got the low ohm message. I opened the atty and spread out the coils a bit and it went back to 0.12Ω
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Sorry should have said atty it the kanger mini running a OCC ni coil. Seems fine I checked it when it first happen. Like I said it only shows Low Ohm if I crank it down tight, if I just snug it it doesn't do it. Sometimes however it happens after it sits for a while not all the time. I was curious if this was the refinement issue discussed earlier. This is the second tank of juice I ran through this coil and it didn't do it on the first tank. I also only removed the mini to refil juice between tanks. I read through the post and didn't see any ground issues showing this problem like you said. It seems to work great no other problems then if I tighten it down to much. I checked my ground when I first got it and also snugged up the top screws just to be safe. I also cleaned threads of battery caps and cleaned 510 threads.
Haven't tried another atty since this is the only one I have set for TP all others are built with kanthal. They worked fine never got a message but to be fair I didn't run them long since this was going to be my TP mod.
I just tightened it down and got message then backed it off slightly and it works fine and reads ohm correct. Seems like their is a sweet spot on how tight to tighten it. Weird... Like I said when it works I worked great seems like it's only when I really tighten it. I get no other error messages no temp perfection or anything.
Reading .
reading .15ohms doesn't seem to be miss reading at all unless it to tight then it shows .07 and I get the message. But once I back it off a bit it goes back to .15 I wider if the coil on the atty is getting to much pressure and messing with the reading of to tight. I know the kanger coil leads are only held by pressure and that seems to be an issue with nickle build if they are not very securely connected. On the kanger coils the legs of the coil are only secured by a rubber grommet.
Here's my line of thinking on this, your build is near the threshold where it declares too low perhaps 0.09Ω . With the way Kanger did the 510 your connection is just a bit poor causing making it read above 0.1Ω till you tighten it and get a better connection
Sounds like the problem I had with the coils touching then.
BTW it was a ST mini that I had this problem, but with the RBA head.
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