Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[GrandSam]

Day 2 of owning the VF...dont know whether to be impressed or concerned with the battery life. I popped in 2 freshly charged VTC5's last night at around 10 p.m. Now it's 10 A.M and the battery level hasn't dropped at all. Just how long do these last?! (not complaining).
I'm probably being paranoid. I had a battery-level indicator issue (level didn't drop) with my Cloupor mini.

 

[TheBloke]

Day 2 of owning the VF...dont know whether to be impressed or concerned with the battery life. I popped in 2 freshly charged VTC5's last night at around 10 p.m. Now it's 10 A.M and the battery level hasn't dropped at all. Just how long do these last?! (not complaining).
I'm probably being paranoid. I had a battery-level indicator issue (level didn't drop) with my Cloupor mini.

The battery level indicator has steps, it isn't hugely granular, and you have 5200mah of battery in there. I'm sure it's fine. Presumably you were asleep for a fair amount of the time between 10pm and 10am?

 

[GrandSam]

The battery level indicator has steps, it isn't hugely granular, and you have 5200mah of battery in there. I'm sure it's fine. Presumably you were asleep for a fair amount of the time between 10pm and 10am?

You could say that, haha. Here's to hoping you're correct. This would be China-mod number 3 with the issue. Oh well, either way she's performing exceptionally well.

 

[Angel Eyes]

if I was going to go to a real Evolv DNA40 board for this VF, I want to wait until the next generation that is "titanium aware" anyone have a line on when that will be? (should be very soon, been a while since last release)

by the way, my Waidea flask doesn't seem to have any lag between pressing the button and when it fires, and I also do not understand the comments about it being a fingerprint magnet, mine has never shown a fingerprint, not any wear whatsoever, and it looks as good after a month of heavy use as the day it arrived!

what is the precise metric size of the hex screws holding it together?

 

[Tpat591]

if I was going to go to a real Evolv DNA40 board for this VF, I want to wait until the next generation that is "titanium aware" anyone have a line on when that will be? (should be very soon, been a while since last release)

by the way, my Waidea flask doesn't seem to have any lag between pressing the button and when it fires, and I also do not understand the comments about it being a fingerprint magnet, mine has never shown a fingerprint, not any wear whatsoever, and it looks as good after a month of heavy use as the day it arrived!

what is the precise metric size of the hex screws holding it together?

Depends on your bit set somewhat. 1.3mm allen key, T5 Torx, & some have said T6 Torx.

 

[TheBloke]

T6 Torx probably came from me typoing it. It's T5 on mine and dwcraig's and I think Croak confirmed that too. 1.4mm I believe dwcraig measured it at with his calipers; T5 is 1.42 so that fits.

 

[Angel Eyes]

OK, upon further analysis, this size is not metric and is technically called a 0.050" hex (1.27 mm) - however my trusty German Wiha T5 screwdriver did work fine
what is the trick to the next step of getting this apart, everything seems pretty tightly bound inside!

 

[TheBloke]

OK, upon further analysis, this size is not metric and is technically called a 0.050" hex (1.27 mm) - however my trusty German Wiha T5 screwdriver did work fine
what is the trick to the next step of getting this apart, everything seems pretty tightly bound inside!

Read WeirdWillie's excellent guide to dismantling the Waidea VF.

 

[Angel Eyes]

I don't know what is the big rush to replace the 510 connector is - other than some grounding issues occasionally in my silver version, the stock 510 fits my Kanger Subtank fine and always makes a great connection.

can someone direct me to the message that outlines the dna 40 board replacement on the Waidea flask?

 

[Tpat591]

There was never one created as it requires a skill level beyond many. It is assumed that if you have the skills to do the replacement, you can figure out the rest.

 

[Croak]

by the way, my Waidea flask doesn't seem to have any lag between pressing the button and when it fires, and I also do not understand the comments about it being a fingerprint magnet, mine has never shown a fingerprint, not any wear whatsoever, and it looks as good after a month of heavy use as the day it arrived!

You should notice some lag, especially with Kanthal builds. As for fingerprints, silver isn't a problem. Black gets nasty in short order.

 

[Tpat591]

I don't know what is the big rush to replace the 510 connector is - other than some grounding issues occasionally in my silver version, the stock 510 fits my Kanger Subtank fine and always makes a great connection.

can someone direct me to the message that outlines the dna 40 board replacement on the Waidea flask?

Just take the ground loop & put it under the retaining nut for the existing 510 or use a ring terminal if you choose.

To pull the sled remove the fire button, turn flask so up/down buttons are oriented downward & disengage them by prying on button flanges against sled. When they are loose, sled can be removed by gently prying upward against chassis being careful not to damage it.

DNA 40 pinouts can be found on Evolv site & should be same as ChiNA40. Ground board to chassis as well when you install.

 

[Angel Eyes]

ground loop needs to go under under the brass nut? - between brass nut and case top?

and what is the best tool for loosening weird round stainless nut?

 

[Angel Eyes]

OK, I see, small needle nose vise grips for round stainless nut & 13mm box end for brass nut!

 

[Tpat591]

ground loop needs to go under under the brass nut? - between brass nut and case top?

and what is the best tool for loosening weird round stainless nut?

Yes. That will provide a tight ground so long as you keep top plate screws tight.

Mine wasn't that tight--I Just used a Leatherman tool's pliers. Croaks was tight he used Vice Grips.

The Leatherman tool allowed me to grasp the nut & twist off the top plate without pulling the sled.

 

[Angel Eyes]

OK Kiddies, ring loop is now under brass nut - I would advise anyone without good tools and tiny cell phone repair experience, might want to pass on this repair - lol

Unit working good so far

 

[Tpat591]

OK Kiddies, ring loop is now under brass nut - I would advise anyone without good tools and tiny cell phone repair experience, might want to pass on this repair - lol

Unit working good so far

Shouldn't have been that bad other than loop twisting when you tightened it down but now you know you have a solid ground and if you ever do need to send it back under warranty, you can easily put it back where it was & no one will be the wiser that you did it. Good Job!

 

[Angel Eyes]

I cannot imagine warranting a $55 dollar device back to china - I would just rebuild it with genuine DNA40 and different 510 and 18 gauge wire throughout - gonna switch to 24 gauge titanium next week. Nickel scares me! - Would also like to find a source for Dow Optim VG.

 

[Tpat591]

I cannot imagine warranting a $55 dollar device back to china - I would just rebuild it with genuine DNA40 and different 510 and 18 gauge wire throughout - gonna switch to 24 gauge titanium next week. Nickel scares me! - Would also like to find a source for Dow Optim VG.

Titanium come with its own set of worries--Do Your Research Before Hand.

 

[Tpat591]

I cannot imagine warranting a $55 dollar device back to china - I would just rebuild it with genuine DNA40 and different 510 and 18 gauge wire throughout - gonna switch to 24 gauge titanium next week. Nickel scares me! - Would also like to find a source for Dow Optim VG.

You said yourself that the Waidea works pretty good, unless it fails, I wouldn't replace the ChiNA40.

I also like the existing 510s looks. What is maddening is that they tapped the bottom of the 510 barrel out to M8. Had they just left the M7x.05mm all the way through you could just screw a FD V3 Shorty core into it to have a floating pin. I've got a 510 Tap on order & when it arrives in June, I'm gonna retap the original back to a 510 thread & get that FD V3 Shorty core in there.