Both times due to the FDV 510 I put in. Gotta be careful with the bottom of that 510 pin as to not let it make contact with the battery positive terminal.oh man its sad to hear thatthe 2nd VF died.
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Both times due to the FDV 510 I put in. Gotta be careful with the bottom of that 510 pin as to not let it make contact with the battery positive terminal.oh man its sad to hear thatthe 2nd VF died.
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I have only seen the Rayn V3 dna 40 clone board for sale at desire-e cig.com and that's even out of stock. If you do happen to find the 60 watt sxk/infinite board let us know.Has anyone seen a supply of the 60W TC chipsets Infinite is using? I still have a Chana box searching for a tenant.
I've 5 authentic sub tank (2 mini 3 nano) & no leaks. Once you get authentic occs your leak will probably go away. Lemo 2 highly recommended.
Is tempered ni200 easier to work with? I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth trying over regular ni200?Tempered Ni200 Pure Nickel Wire | Lightning Vapes
I didn't realize we could get it in the US yet but it's here, I shall order some tomorrow.
yesIs tempered ni200 easier to work with? I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth trying over regular ni200?
Comparable to working with Kanthal... I'm to understand.Is tempered ni200 easier to work with? I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth trying over regular ni200?
I have a subtank and a subtank plus. No leaks with either one.I have an authentic sub tank mini, and I've used both authentic OCC coils and the RBA deck (mostly). Sometimes it leaks, through the air flow ring. It's nothing to do with the O-rings, I've changed them already.
Comparable to working with Kanthal... I'm to understand.
Tempered Ni200 Pure Nickel Wire | Lightning Vapes
I didn't realize we could get it in the US yet but it's here, I shall order some tomorrow.
Half the res?! If that's the case I'm guessing dual coils are going to be difficult. Which I have yet to build. I'm lookin for an atty with adequate room for dual ni200 cows. What can you guys recommend for a roomy atty but still retains the flavor?Just a heads up, one of the guys from Plumes tried some LV tempered 30ga, and it came out to half the resistance of LV's regular annealed Ni200 30ga.
Crazy Wire in the UK (wireandstuff.co.uk) sell two kinds of Ni200 - Hard Finish (which is Hard Drawn) and Soft Finish (which is tempered+annealed.)
What do you mean by tempered+ annealed? It can't be both at the same time, right?
I'm lookin for an atty with adequate room for dual ni200 cows. What can you guys recommend for a roomy atty but still retains the flavor?
I'm no expert, and could certainly be wrong, but from what I've understood tempered and annealed are pretty much opposites. Tempered is hardened wire, and when heat treated it turns soft. It's basically annealed after that. So, what makes sense to me is hardened = tempered, soft = annealed.Don't ask me, I'm just quoting what they sayBut I did think that each was a process that could be run on the wire, so you could run the annealing process first then the tempering process?
Maybe that's different to the wire being 'tempered' versus 'annealed' which I guess indicates a state?
So maybe it's the difference between the state of being annealed/tempered, which are mutually exclusive, versus the tempering/annealing process, which could both be done?
No idea to be honest! But I do trust the company, they're the primary wire supplier to many industries in the UK, including the vast majority of all vaping wire.
Anyway this is what they say (link to example Ni200 Soft Finish wire.) EDIT: Corrected the link to the one that states the process.
To achieve the softer finish these wires are tempered AND annealed. Please contact us if you require some info on this process.
I'm no expert, and could certainly be wrong, but from what I've understood tempered and annealed are pretty much opposites. Tempered is hardened wire, and when heat treated it turns soft. It's basically annealed after that. So, what makes sense to me is hardened = tempered, soft = annealed.