Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[yo han]

Aaaand we're back!
This is odd. It worked for a few drags and then bam! Back to 77F.
Not lower, not higher, EXACTLY 77F
Like it's getting a fixed resistance somehow.

 

[dwcraig1]

Aaaand we're back!
This is odd. It worked for a few drags and then bam! Back to 77F.
Not lower, not higher, EXACTLY 77F
Like it's getting a fixed resistance somehow.

Right or wrong, mine is set to 58 NP and 340F... to get it working to my satisfaction with 26 gaurge Gr 1 TI.
This is an early SXK flask

 

[SotosB]

Never mind. Just tried a spaced coil and everything's fine.
Dang! I thought Ti could be used non-spaced. I hate to make and use spaced coils

You can use a contact Ti coil. I use a clapton Ti that I never heated or pulsed before use and it's working perfectly. I have the NP set to 40
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance | Page 47 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[yo han]

That picture clearly shows it's spaced.
I've started from scratch again and tried another contact coil. Same issue: 77F continues temp (while temperature was definitely higher).
I've now spaced the coil again and it's running OK. So the previous coil probably was still making contact somewhere (bottom side maybe? It's damn hard too see once it's wicked).

 

[sonicbomb]

The battery threads, a wire brush a small sharp screwdriver and lots of patience. The top I sanded with some fine grade sandpaper. I didn't sand the top cap just a small section of the top of the chassis body.

 

[TheBloke]

That picture clearly shows it's spaced.
I've started from scratch again and tried another contact coil. Same issue: 77F continues temp (while temperature was definitely higher).
I've now spaced the coil again and it's running OK. So the previous coil probably was still making contact somewhere (bottom side maybe? It's damn hard too see once it's wicked).

I have experienced that issue with some contact Titanium coils. From my experience, you need to pulse it a couple of times - gently, at low watts - and on the third or fourth pulse, the TC will suddenly kick in. This means that it has become oxidised and it is no longer shorting across the coil.

I have used many contact Ti coils and they're working very well. Lately I have not noticed the "no TC" problem so much, and I am not sure what is different - maybe it varies with wire. I definitely experienced it with Zivipf Titanium, which is the first Titanium I had, but have not recently noticed it with Crazy Wire and Stealth Vape Ti. But even when I did experience it with Zivipf, it could always be resolved with a few pulses.

Just be sure the pulses are low watts - 10W max - and the the coil doesn't go grey, meaning it's been heated too much.

 

[Hammy75]

The battery threads, a wire brush a small sharp screwdriver and lots of patience. The top I sanded with some fine grade sandpaper. I didn't sand the top cap just a small section of the top of the chassis body.

Awesome. Appreciate the pic. Thanks!

 

[SteveAdams86]

I was looking for a 50w vapour flask squonking clone with or without temp control, preferably with it but not the end of the world if it doesn't have it. The internet is flooded with stuff from Alibaba and I would be after just 1 unit not 10 lol Can anyone recommend such a device to me?

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[TheBloke]

I was looking for a 50w vapour flask squonking clone with or without temp control, preferably with it but not the end of the world if it doesn't have it. The internet is flooded with stuff from Alibaba and I would be after just 1 unit not 10 lol Can anyone recommend such a device to me?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

3fvape have two I believe. One is a Yiloong device which I heard might not be best quality, and the other the have self-branded but I think is meant to be from Waidea and is therefore probably quite good. There was a lot of discussion about it a month or two ago in this thread if you want to search for more details. I was away from teh forum around the time it came out so not sure if there were posts around that time and/or if people bought them.

Both use the Rayn board DNA 40 clone - minimum 0.1 resistance, °F temps only, reasonable accuracy. Not sure if they have floating/sprung 510, my Waidea VF clone does not.

Cheap as chips so worth a punt even if they turn out not to be great

 

[SteveAdams86]

3fvape have two I believe. One is a Yiloong device which I heard might not be best quality, and the other the have self-branded but I think is meant to be from Waidea and is therefore probably quite good. There was a lot of discussion about it a month or two ago in this thread if you want to search for more details. I was away from teh forum around the time it came out so not sure if there were posts around that time and/or if people bought them.

Both use the Rayn board DNA 40 clone - minimum 0.1 resistance, °F temps only, reasonable accuracy. Not sure if they have floating/sprung 510, my Waidea VF clone does not.

Cheap as chips so worth a punt even if they turn out not to be great

I might have a look through some older posts in here and see what I can turn up. I already own a rDNA 40 vaporshark and sometimes wish it had more power for dripping which is why I was after a 50w squonker

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[TheBloke]

Oh I forgot you said 50W. The Waidea/3FVape is just 40W. The Yiloong might be 50W, but also didn't get a good reception here in terms of build quality.

EDIT: No Yiloong is 40W as well.

I've seen no discussion on 50W squonk clones, though like you I've seen plenty on Alibaba.

 

[dlgarman]

I think this is what you're looking for, Judging by the screws and the case it's an sxk. It has NP so you can get a ss coil as well. At www.oceanvapor.com

NEW

Vapor Flask V3 DNA50 Temp Control Box Mod
Model DNA50

Condition New

Useable 50Watt Temp Control VW Mod

• 
  
• Pls notice the product is a 1:1 clone one,we supply it with good price,good quality.
  
  Features:
  *Resistance can be normal working:0.06Ω-5Ω, Standard load:1ohm
  *Wattage can be adjusted from 1W to 50W (0.1W/click)
  *Temperature control setting : 200-600F(AKA-100-300C)
  *Screen orientation can change 180 degrees
  *Nickel Wire Purity Setting : the higher the nickel wire purity is,the bigger the
  reference value should be (The nickle 200 reference value : 70-75)
  *Work with two 18650 battery
  *Charging through USB cable
  *Display functionutput temperature,output voltage, atomizer resistance and
  output power
  *Low voltage warning
  *High temperature alarm
  *Shot circuit protection
  *Low resistance protection
  *Kit weight:235g
  
  Kit contents:
  1pc Vapor Flask V3 50W mod
  1pc Usb cable
  1pc Manual
  1pc Gift box

 

[SteveAdams86]

It was a 50w squonker I was after dlgarman, if such thing exists preferably with temp control. Seems to be a choice of 40w with temp control or 50w without

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[dlgarman]

oops..my bad

 

[TheBloke]

It was a 50w squonker I was after dlgarman, if such thing exists preferably with temp control. Seems to be a choice of 40w with temp control or 50w without

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If you go without you can have 60W, and more importantly you get Nickel Purity allowing vaping of Titanium without temp offset, and Stainless Steel; the latter isn't possible on any other mod besides much more expensive Dicodes and DNA 200 chip mods. (Though you'll soon have the latter I know, so maybe not such a big deal any more.)

Or if you're the DIY type you could do what @dwcraig1 did and make your own Squonk from a standard VF clone. He did it with the Waidea, but you could do it just as well with the SXK.

 

[Angel Eyes]

3 questions,

1. how titanium aware are the new SX350j VF clones- titanium compatibility is the only thing my Waidea DNA40 VF lacks, I would never need higher than 40 watts, but I like how the new DNA 200 is titanium aware.

2. surely there is a way to retrofit my Waidea VF with one of the new DNA 200 boards, has anyone figured out how? - I don't want to ditch this nice VF just to upgrade the DNA board!

3. why do I still get burned scorching marks on my Japanese cotton and chimney on my VF clone if temperature control is working? - I am vaping at 15-18 W at a setting of 280 degrees for titanium, is this thing just worthless for titanium wire?


I suppose I could upgrade my clone that was only bought in March, I am getting tired of constantly retightening that crazy round nut under the 510 anyway!

At least the Kanger Subtank was a breakthrough, my 20th tank system and the first one that doesn't leak!

 

[druckle]

I don' t think the DNA 200 will fit in a Vapor Flask body. I remember hearing Charlie from VF mentioning that.

Duane

 

[SteveAdams86]

If you go without you can have 60W, and more importantly you get Nickel Purity allowing vaping of Titanium without temp offset, and Stainless Steel; the latter isn't possible on any other mod besides much more expensive Dicodes and DNA 200 chip mods. (Though you'll soon have the latter I know, so maybe not such a big deal any more.)

Or if you're the DIY type you could do what @dwcraig1 did and make your own Squonk from a standard VF clone. He did it with the Waidea, but you could do it just as well with the SXK.

A 60w one as squonker with the nickel purity sounds great, if it exists please link! I'd really rather not start modifying mods too much as its a bit out of my comfort zone. Only having 1 battery is fine, I can get replacements and iv already got other mods to use in between charges

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[SteveAdams86]

3 questions,

1. how titanium aware are the new SX350j VF clones- titanium compatibility is the only thing my Waidea DNA40 VF lacks, I would never need higher than 40 watts, but I like how the new DNA 200 is titanium aware.

2. surely there is a way to retrofit my Waidea VF with one of the new DNA 200 boards, has anyone figured out how? - I don't want to ditch this nice VF just to upgrade the DNA board!

3. why do I still get burned scorching marks on my Japanese cotton and chimney on my VF clone if temperature control is working? - I am vaping at 15-18 W at a setting of 280 degrees for titanium, is this thing just worthless for titanium wire?


I suppose I could upgrade my clone that was only bought in March, I am getting tired of constantly retightening that crazy round nut under the 510 anyway!

At least the Kanger Subtank was a breakthrough, my 20th tank system and the first one that doesn't leak!

I heard you need to turn down your temp to offset the expected temp if your using it a device which isn't designed to use it in the first place because nickel and titanium have a different coefficient rating. You need to lower your temp by 90f. Also dry cotton will burn at 230c / 440f. So 90f is about 30c so take 230-30 that is what you should use or 440-90. As for your other 2 questions I don't know sorry

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[TheBloke]

A 60w one as squonker with the nickel purity sounds great, if it exists please link! I'd really rather not start modifying mods too much as its a bit out of my comfort zone. Only having 1 battery is fine, I can get replacements and iv already got other mods to use in between charges

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It doesn't. I meant if you were going to get a normal VF clone, the 60W SXK is the one to get rather than any other.

I'm sure you could find a modder to do the work for you if it's worth a lot to you to have one - though then you might be getting up to the cost of just buying a real Squonk

Otherwise it's 40W or nothing I think. I am not even sure if there's a 50W at all, even via Alibaba and/or in bulk: I just Googled again and the only one I see is the Yiloong, but that's 50W without TC. I think the Alibaba links will be that one, 50W with no TC.

Are you sure 50W is that important? Do you do a lot of VW? I honestly haven't noticed a vast difference having 50 or even 60W TC, I tend to keep it around 40 anyways. It's only the pre-heat for which it really applies. It might be a factor if you make big, heavy coils, but for any normal TC coil I can't see it being hugely noticeable. Especially not when it's only another 10W.