Yeah I was trying to be politically correct as I can tell you are as well. You are right about the wires! That 510 center pin nut wasn't bought at FDV though.
That's a Waidea. No doubt. Just never saw a factory adjustable 510 inatalled and never had so much play on the wires.
I have both the silver and the black. The silver is less of a fingerprint magnet, however, the silver doesn't look as nice as the black, finish wise IMO, at least mine doesnt. Other than that, neither Waidea, when they both were stock ( board, 510) were flakey. Actually both were quite stable when they were stock and my silver one, which still has the stock V4 board, upgraded FDV V3 is still a great flask, when I use it. My black one with the DNA is my main flask, could pass as a genuine if the buttons were flush with case.Some things I have learned about the fabulous Waidea mod over the last few months of usage that may help some folks:
● 1. If it starts vaping unsatisfactorily, remove tank, press fire button to cue "Atomizer Open" message, replace tank, fire, select "new coil", and resistance will be remeasured, more accurately. This trick is especially useful when vaping 100% VG juices, as I do.
● 2. This mod can start getting screwy when battery voltage falls roughly below half (3.80V) so have a charged set of batteries in your charger ready to swap out to fix it. This also has the additional side effect of greatly increasing the life of your batteries!
● 3. the two best tools for quick battery replacement - 1. a friggin HUGE flathead screwdriver or 2. a U.S. quarter coin (25 US cents)
● 4. After using both the exact factory correct size of 1.3mm hex German screwdriver (Wiha 26313) and a Torx T5
- I am now convinced that, strangely enough, a T5 (Wiha 26705) is less likely to strip the screws, even though they are hex screws - mind blown!
● 5. The grade 1 titanium wire from Etsy - Unkamen works great in this mod in temp mode at 300°F with an original Kanger subtank, no way I am vaping poison nickel wire!
● 6. The silver model really is better looking and fingerprints do not show.
● 7. This mod is such a ridiculously good copy of the original Vapor Flask, it can be very hard to tell them apart, also, unfortunately, with batteries installed, both it and my original genuine VF weigh about as much as a large brick!
They ever fix the temp inaccuracy on the xbrick 2? It was under powered right? 600° F feels like 500, sum th in like that. Firmware update?
I gutted my black Waidea eventually because of the board shorting out on me and figured I'd throw in the real deal. As for the 510 that's had a few revisions itself. Kept it stick for a while then I put in a FDV V3 Short and finally settled on the stock single air slot 510 and just put in the spring loaded guts of a FDV V4 low profile 510. I like it, works great. Advantages- gives you something to do on a rainy day etc. Accuracy of a DNA 40. Spring loaded 510 over stock fixed (although I liked the fixed for it's great connectivity). No real disadvantages except for maybe the cost of the parts.
I like my D2, the paint sux but still works great. Ni or Ti usable. I only use Ti and more recently SS. Decent battery life at 40 joules- 480° F. The D2 doesn't have an adjustable TCR. I was speaking on the SXK boards that are out there.
