Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I just ordered a waidea 40W flask from focalecig and was wondering if anyone has attempted to swap out the chip for an original dna board and the 510 connection (it's not spring loaded i believe) for a FDV one.
The reviews on the waidea board i am seeing are somewhat mixed, but the flask itself appears to look rather nice.
The reviews on the waidea board i am seeing are somewhat mixed, but the flask itself appears to look rather nice.
Hmm weird I seemed to of fixed it, atleast temporarily but I'm not not sure how exactly what I did to do it.
I removed the batteries, tank, took out the 4 screws on the top. Popped the screen off its plastic housing. Pocked the wires with my screw driver. Tryed to push out the interels from below using screw drivers in the battery area and pushing down on the desk and it move it all about a bit. Prodded and cleaned the 510. Got a little bit of juice out from inside the mod under the 510. Put the screen back into place, screwed the top on. Batteries back in. Held the power button to make sure it still turned on, kept holding until my tank was screwed on and it asked me if it was a new coil or same, I told it new and now the ....... will fire 45w again!
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I removed the batteries, tank, took out the 4 screws on the top. Popped the screen off its plastic housing. Pocked the wires with my screw driver. Tryed to push out the interels from below using screw drivers in the battery area and pushing down on the desk and it move it all about a bit. Prodded and cleaned the 510. Got a little bit of juice out from inside the mod under the 510. Put the screen back into place, screwed the top on. Batteries back in. Held the power button to make sure it still turned on, kept holding until my tank was screwed on and it asked me if it was a new coil or same, I told it new and now the ....... will fire 45w again!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
There's a bit of a clearance problem when installing another 510, the positive output tends to contact the positive battery connection on that side and if it does it fries the board. The 510 needs to be spaced up a couple mm, it's doable.
More likely than not the connection between the top plate and case was faulty.
If your into it again scrape the areas of the case and top plate where they contact each other with a sharp blade to get clean metal and perhaps apply Noalox to ...... oxidation.
Just so you guys know, the REAL Vaporflask suffers from a similar problem, ground related. It's a design flaw, the DNA40 needs very good grounding, with two different connections to the board. VF just used the chassis to 510, and only the Kangxin clone bothered to "improve" on that grounding method.
Keeping screws tight and contact areas clean helps, but the best fix is to solder another wire from an unused negative on the board to the 510 (a different negative point than the one already connected to the 510).
Keeping screws tight and contact areas clean helps, but the best fix is to solder another wire from an unused negative on the board to the 510 (a different negative point than the one already connected to the 510).
I had the same issue with my SXK 60w flask acting odd with new batteries. It would drop the wattage like it was in TC. How I fixed was I got some 220 grit sandpaper and sanded the inside battery contacts. When I first looked in there they were showing patina so I sanded them all then it worked fine. I have a new problem though my up button will not do anything. It will press down and click but not adjusting anything. The down and fire button work fine. Any ideas of how to fix. I've looked inside and it seems like everything is correct but I haven't taken the board completely out. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a easy fix before I started surgery. Thanks.
No ( I`m sure you know, but forgot ). In this case you`ll stil have the same problem when the contact to the top plate is bad. A second wire to the board is not bad, but it`s more important to have good connection to the body. A second wire from 510 negative to the body is easy to make. Solder a wire to the washer, drill a small hole from the inside into one of the 4 screw holes ( about 4mm from the top), strip the insulation of the wire of and push the blank wire into the hole.
Soldering the wire to the body is not easy and getting the solder off too ( if you want to get the tray out for any reason )
Which is why I said a second ground to the 510 is the best fix.
As you said, there's no easy way to solder to the body, and there's also no easy, non-destructive way to mount your method. A second wire from the other ground pad on the board is nearly as effective and all you need is a piece of wire, some solder, a cheap iron, and some time. Of course, that assumes the mating of the 510 ground is making good contact with the top plate, and the top plate is making good contact with the body.
As you said, there's no easy way to solder to the body, and there's also no easy, non-destructive way to mount your method. A second wire from the other ground pad on the board is nearly as effective and all you need is a piece of wire, some solder, a cheap iron, and some time. Of course, that assumes the mating of the 510 ground is making good contact with the top plate, and the top plate is making good contact with the body.
As far as I found out, the bad contact ( sooner or later it will be there again, after cleaning/sanding )from the top plate to the body is the main problem. I guess, adding a second wire to the board will give you some 0.xx Watt when vaping with 40W.
Drilling a tiny hole is not a big deal. Here´s a pic showing where to drill. The place is good, but the guy who made it, just used the black wire from the 510, instead of using a second wire. http://files.homepagemodules.de/b518637/f636t125883p2669174n2_sQAlPpIe.jpg The screw from the top plate will give a good contact to the wire.
IMHO that´s the easy way - too many displays have been killed when people tried to get the tray out.
Drilling a tiny hole is not a big deal. Here´s a pic showing where to drill. The place is good, but the guy who made it, just used the black wire from the 510, instead of using a second wire. http://files.homepagemodules.de/b518637/f636t125883p2669174n2_sQAlPpIe.jpg The screw from the top plate will give a good contact to the wire.
IMHO that´s the easy way - too many displays have been killed when people tried to get the tray out.
I really need help fixing my SXK flask up button. The down button and fire work fine can anyone point me in a direction? I have a slight amount of soldering skills any help would be greatly appreciated.
im pretty sure the kangxin is loaded with hot glue, no sled to speak of except for the screen. buttons held in with the help of glue also. take yer top plate off and see how much glue there is. if it isnt a glue graveyard try and dig out your up button and order some new tact switches. try digikey.com. the button wires are very thin so be carefull you dont pop em from the pcb. ive heard rubbing alcohol loosens hot glue so try that. if you pop yer top, post some pics up, me likey pics.
Rubber alcohol,q tip and little screw driver works magic on the hot glue. Just don't get it all over the parts you want to stay glued. I'd start by carefully jumping the two solder points on the switch to see if it make it go up. Don't short to case .im pretty sure the kangxin is loaded with hot glue, no sled to speak of except for the screen. buttons held in with the help of glue also. take yer top plate off and see how much glue there is. if it isnt a glue graveyard try and dig out your up button and order some new tact switches. try digikey.com. the button wires are very thin so be carefull you dont pop em from the pcb. ive heard rubbing alcohol loosens hot glue so try that. if you pop yer top, post some pics up, me likey pics.
There is zero hot glue in the SXK flask I guess. And thanks for the help but it's all fixed. I tried to get everything out with a long screwdriver and pushing up through where the batteries go and it only moved up a little. I tried getting the buttons out with no success I'm pretty sure something would have broken if I kept trying. Well when all else fails put it back together put batteries in and start smacking it as hard as you can and would you look at that it's all fixed. My wife was looking at me like I was a idiot then I just looked at her and said I fixed it lol. I couldn't believe it, something must have been loose or dirty and whatever I did freed it up. Thanks for the help though. The inside of this flask is very clean and even though I have 2 DNA200's I was missing my flask and I'm happy she's running well now. 
crap, sorry i dunno why i was thinking you had a kangxin flask. i need to pay attention a lil more when reading posts. ya the sxk has a white sled and the chrome button caps have to be pryed in an upward fashionn to lift off of actuators. scary at first but after a few times you know what to expect. glad to hear you fixed it "caveman style" lol. sounds like a poor connection i.e. broken wire, cold solder joint, and by you banging the mod around "reconnected" the path. just know the problem could resurface. maybe carry a small rock hammer with u to repair it if it acts up againThere is zero hot glue in the SXK flask I guess. And thanks for the help but it's all fixed. I tried to get everything out with a long screwdriver and pushing up through where the batteries go and it only moved up a little. I tried getting the buttons out with no success I'm pretty sure something would have broken if I kept trying. Well when all else fails put it back together put batteries in and start smacking it as hard as you can and would you look at that it's all fixed. My wife was looking at me like I was a idiot then I just looked at her and said I fixed it lol. I couldn't believe it, something must have been loose or dirty and whatever I did freed it up. Thanks for the help though. The inside of this flask is very clean and even though I have 2 DNA200's I was missing my flask and I'm happy she's running well now.
Hahaha I'll keep my estwing hammer by my side. It's helped me through troubling times in the past and I'm sure it will help more in my life lol. I had read in previous post that getting the SXK apart was sort of a pain and I was close to going down in my workshop and really opening it up but I'm glad I just got a little mad and just went "caveman style" on it. 
So i have stripped my Waidea flask clone down to it's guts, Fatdaddy v3 shorty ready and my original DNA40 board ready to go.
Upon taking the flask apart, i stumbled across a second board, soldered to the Clone-dna board and connecting the 2 battery positives to the board (see picture).
Now my question.... is it a good idea to keep this extra board or should i get rid of it and make direct connections to the DNA board?
And second, the USB charger seems firmly installed to the flask with some kind of nut or grommet. I would like to avoid taking it out. Will the charger work with the DNA board or would it be better to leave it disconnected?
It would be great if @WeirdWillie or someone that has successfully transplanted a chip could enlighten me.
Thank you!
Upon taking the flask apart, i stumbled across a second board, soldered to the Clone-dna board and connecting the 2 battery positives to the board (see picture).
Now my question.... is it a good idea to keep this extra board or should i get rid of it and make direct connections to the DNA board?
And second, the USB charger seems firmly installed to the flask with some kind of nut or grommet. I would like to avoid taking it out. Will the charger work with the DNA board or would it be better to leave it disconnected?
It would be great if @WeirdWillie or someone that has successfully transplanted a chip could enlighten me.
Thank you!
its a reverse battery protection board, im pretty sure. i ditched mine when i did an evolv swap. as for the usb wires, i left them disconnected. takes too long to charge that way anyhow.
EDIT: can you post pics of the ryan board. im curious to see what version it is. are you planing to change the 510?
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I'd do away with it also.
But I like the USB charging.
Yes the charger will work perfectly just well .5 amp slow
But I like the USB charging.
Yes the charger will work perfectly just well .5 amp slow
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