Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

starting to get waidea envy...nah..my 'old' kangxin is firing great!! lol

Don't worry, within a week there will be a Waidea v4 or some SomeOtherChineseManufacturer v1 which will have working TC @ 80W, gold highlights, and an optional reach-around, and we'll all be outdated.

I'm just hoping mine isn't superseded at least until I've received it

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Anyone know the weight of the genuine Vapor Flask 2.1? Doesn't seem to be part of any spec sheets, according to my Googling; maybe someone remembers a video reviewer who weighed it?

I ask because this Czech reviewer has weighed the Waidea VF and it's 168.8 grams - just wondering how that compares to the genuine.

lol.. Busardo must have weighed it!!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Don't worry, within a week there will be a Waidea v4 or some SomeOtherChineseManufacturer v1 which will have working TC @ 80W, gold highlights, and an optional reach-around, and we'll all be outdated.

I'm just hoping mine isn't superseded at least until I've received it

that is so very true!

 

[Croak]

lol.. Busardo must have weighed it!!

He did. Around 240g with batteries installed.

https://youtu.be/mjbmX6vc3Ss?t=17m35s

 

[hotflash]

Anywhere to get just the kx40 chip?

 

[tchavei]

Not sure which one it is : http://vapingcheap.com/dna40-chip-clone/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[hotflash]

Thnx tchavei

 

[TheBloke]

lol.. Busardo must have weighed it!!

Good point! I didn't think of him because I knew he hadn't reviewed the 2.1, but of course he did review the 2.0 and surely that will be identical in physical specs, just with a different board.

Yes he weighed it, with two VTC 3 batteries in it. That weight is 241.7 grams.

I've checked the weight of the batteries on a couple of sites, and they're consistent at listing it as 45 grams.

So removing 90 grams from pbsuardo's measurement, the genuine VF 2.0 weighs 151.7 grams.

And the Waidea clone sans batteries weighs 168.7 grams, exactly 17 grams less. With batteries, it'll weigh 258.7 grams.

So there you go! Everything (or far more) you wanted to know about the Waidea's weight and how it compares to the genuine

I'm not quite sure what I hoped to find.. I suppose I hoped it would be exactly the same weight and that would be more confirmation of its 1:1 cloneness But of that was not very likely anyway because it doesn't have a floating pin and so lacks a spring, so there's at least one clear difference.

Given as it's heavier I guess it's fractionally bigger - it does fit batteries slightly more easily, apparently. Though actually I suppose there's any number of tiny differences that cumulatively could result in 17 grams.

 

[Croak]

Different, lower grade alloy in the aluminum could easily account for that weight difference, if all else were the same.

I also suspect the Waidea is using heavier, (injection molded, not-3D printed) plastic inside for the board sled, good for a few grams more weight. That's assuming they used a sled instead of the "stuff it in there and hot glue it" method like Kangxin. And if they did use the hot glue method, well, that's good for a bit of heft.

 

[damped]

The inside pluspool of the Waidea version, I like the design.

 

[AnsonJames]

The inside pluspool of the Waidea version, I like the design.

Any more pics?

 

[Tpat591]

Received 3FVape's Vapor Shark rDNA40TC clone the other day. Build quality seems very good, has the magnetic battery door & the rubber finish was executed well. Time will tell if this coating holds up better than many of the original units I have heard of. The seam down the front of the unit enclosing the electronics could have been fitted better though & when the fire button LEDs are lit the seam really stands out. I believe the center pin is not fixed as there seems to be a small amount of movement although the spring seems very stiff.

Vapor Shark rDNA40TC initially misread my Kanger Subtank Mini w/ Vapor Shark NI200 OCC coil as .29ohm and was definitely running way hot at a set point of 200F that it came out of box with and it did not refine and correct the resistance reading the way my Kangxin flask would have. After I let it cool, removed the atty, reinstalled, & chose New Coil it read the resistance properly as .15ohm & operated fine as far as temp control goes but it does seem to provide a considerably warmer vape than my kangxin when set to same temperature.

It is equipped with the small display screen as used on the flask & not the larger display used on later versions of the original. The unit display dims 3 seconds after use, display goes off completely 30 seconds after use, however the fire button will continue to glow red until the unit enters sleep 5 after minutes of idle time. There is a full 1 second delay from sleep to fire which I find annoying.

The usb cord included with the unit is fairly short so I haven't checked for passthru operation. There is no display animation when usb charging, just the green LED glowing at the fire button until charging is complete.

Thinking this is the same chip as used in the Waidea flask.

 

[Croak]

From that angle, it does appear they're using a sled similar to what the authentic uses.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Any more pics?

Good I was hoping they used a sled.
Now I know for sure I'm going to get a Waidea for testing too.
That version will make it easy when I get ready to convert it to an authentic DNA40 board.

 

[Tpat591]

Maybe it is distortion in the pic but looks like hot glue up by the positive pin board. Would they use that on a sled?

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Maybe it is distortion in the pic but looks like hot glue up by the positive pin board. Would they use that on a sled?

Looks like solder to me, or at least i don't see anything that looks like hot glue in the pic.

 

[TheBloke]

Good I was hoping they used a sled.
Now I know for sure I'm going to get a Waidea for testing too.
That version will make it easy when I get ready to convert it to an authentic DNA40 board.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a cloned flask and then add the board, rather than get a clone that has all the electronics that you'll just throw away?

Infinite sell such a clone, which is what Angel Fire Mods use to make their "cloned flask / authentic DNA40"

Or is it not possible to get the bare cloned flask except at wholesale quantities?

EDIT: I just checked the photos on that Angel Fire product in more detail, and actually maybe you really don't want to use that flask - it shows the flask with the printed bottom logo not the engraved, and the battery caps that don't line up. One of the earlier, nastier clones for sure!

 

[Croak]

Good I was hoping they used a sled.
Now I know for sure I'm going to get a Waidea for testing too.
That version will make it easy when I get ready to convert it to an authentic DNA40 board.

Just keep in mind I'm assuming it uses a sled, it's not been confirmed yet.

Here's the Yosen sled:

And here's the SXK/Infinite sled:

So a sled is what all the "close to 1:1" V2 30w flask clones are using, and while it's not confirmed, I'd be surprised if they didn't use one on the Waidea. Just makes more sense for volume production than the sloppy stuff it in there method Kangxin used.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Have you seen the Evolv specs for wire sizes?

These are specs for stranded wire. I used to build a lot of electronics items in the late '60s and in the early '70s. Even when I built large power supplies I never used solid wire. Too difficult to work with and too easy to have it break it if flexed too much.

Stranded wire will work just fine with the specs we're dealing with here. In addition the stranded wire makes it much easier to work in the build's confined space.
A nice trick to get stranded wire to work better with a circuit board or where you need to connect it to a terminal lug is to "pre-tin" the bare ends. That is take the stripped wire, twist it tight and neat. Then lightly tin the twisted end with solder, the strands stay together and make it easier to form around a terminal lug or insert into a circuit board's connection hole.

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New question from me:

Which is a good 510 replacement connection for the Kangxin V3 Flask? I have done a "shade tree mechanic" repair job on the center 510 adjustable pin but I know eventually I'll have to replace the entire connector.

Will the ones from Fat Daddy Vapes work okay? I know the recessed space is only about 20mm or so. I would be happy just using a 16mm size connector and I think a heavy-duty spring loaded center pin would be acceptable too.

Any suggestions or recommendations will be appreciated. I did look at the units available from the UK website too. They appear to be spring-loaded center pins too.

 

[Croak]

The Fat Daddy V3 Shorty is probably the best bet for brand name spring loaded stainless 510's, with the shortest depth. The drip well/top plate is 15.5mm in diamter, same size (and same connector for that matter) as the authentic V1.0 and 2.0 so it looks good on the flask.

It's also 2mm thick, just what it needs to be to sit flush with the top of the flask, and that 15.5mm diameter top plate also means you won't have to use a washer on the outside to deal with Kangxin's enormous 510 hole (somewhere around 14mm in diameter).