Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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cobalt327

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Depends.

IF the inner 510 threading goes fully through the stock connector, you could do something clever like buying a redacted 510 connector and use the inner positive assembly and screw it in from the bottom. That way you could maintain the exact visual but with a copper spring loaded pin

Redacted 510 Connector (Copper Spring Loaded Centre Pin)

Notice the white delrin center assembly it has an external 510 threading.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
lol Thanks for that but actually when I said "Would it be too hard to make it adjustable???", I was speaking rhetorically. They keep tiptoeing around making a "good" clone but keep falling just short. Good info just the same, although I would opt for an adjustable 510 as opposed to spring loaded. Just a personal preference thing.
 
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cobalt327

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Curious, they don't list temp protection on that one.

HD
Huh. Guess they don't. The specs are a little weird, too. Says:
•Single battery voltage: 3.1-4.3V
•Atomizer resistance: 0.16-2ohm

So, no buck? Low-end atty resistance would lead one to believe it is TP- and I believe it's supposed to be. But no verification from what is there for specs other than low atty resistance.
 

Chris Cox

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I received my clone v3 from 3FVape a couple of days ago, and aside from it missing one of the 4 screws on the top, everything seems to be working great as far as temp control, wattage, etc. But I have noticed an issue with battery life - at first I thought it was just draining the batteries quickly, or the battery reading on the display was just not accurate. I took the batteries out (authentic VTC4s, matched pair that I've used in a Sigelei 100 watt for a while), and tested them on my multimeter. One was low, around 3.3-3.4, and the other was fully charged, right around 4.2. It appears that the device will run on just 1 battery, so I'm guessing that the positive post adjustment inside the mod was screwed in too far, so even though I had the battery caps screwed in as far as possible, one of the batteries wasn't making contact properly. Could parallel batteries could drain unevenly, if there was a chip issue or something? I'm inclined to think not, which is why I assume the battery that was full just wasn't making contact properly and just not being used.

As a side note - anyone know if it would be an issue to run the device on a single battery, assuming it's a 30 amp, like a vtc4 or vtc5? I don't intend to do this, but just asking for curiosity.
 

tchavei

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This is in Czechoslovakian but shows the Wadiea flask - looks like the finish is nice and so is the performance;

Actually Czechoslovakian doesn't exist (never did as a language) It's either Czech or Slovak. :)

The video is in Czech btw. If I get the time, I'll translate it (if it's of any interest).

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

AnsonJames

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I received my clone v3 from 3FVape a couple of days ago, and aside from it missing one of the 4 screws on the top, everything seems to be working great as far as temp control, wattage, etc. But I have noticed an issue with battery life - at first I thought it was just draining the batteries quickly, or the battery reading on the display was just not accurate. I took the batteries out (authentic VTC4s, matched pair that I've used in a Sigelei 100 watt for a while), and tested them on my multimeter. One was low, around 3.3-3.4, and the other was fully charged, right around 4.2. It appears that the device will run on just 1 battery, so I'm guessing that the positive post adjustment inside the mod was screwed in too far, so even though I had the battery caps screwed in as far as possible, one of the batteries wasn't making contact properly. Could parallel batteries could drain unevenly, if there was a chip issue or something? I'm inclined to think not, which is why I assume the battery that was full just wasn't making contact properly and just not being used.

As a side note - anyone know if it would be an issue to run the device on a single battery, assuming it's a 30 amp, like a vtc4 or vtc5? I don't intend to do this, but just asking for curiosity.
If you are brave enough to open the top of your flask you could bridge the inside battery connectors with a piece of wire.
 

Chris Cox

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Would that ensure that they are running together? I don't think I'm that brave, lol. Hopefully fiddling with the positive post screws inside will get both batteries connecting good and draining evenly... unless it is a wiring issue. In which case I'll have to hit up one of my friends that are far more skilled with small electronics than I :)
 

Tpat591

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Would that ensure that they are running together? I don't think I'm that brave, lol. Hopefully fiddling with the positive post screws inside will get both batteries connecting good and draining evenly... unless it is a wiring issue. In which case I'll have to hit up one of my friends that are far more skilled with small electronics than I :)

Don't do it until after you report problem to 3FVape, send them a video documenting behavior & wait for their reply,
 

dwcraig1

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Would that ensure that they are running together? I don't think I'm that brave, lol. Hopefully fiddling with the positive post screws inside will get both batteries connecting good and draining evenly... unless it is a wiring issue. In which case I'll have to hit up one of my friends that are far more skilled with small electronics than I :)

Try installing just one battery and then switch it to the other side, in case you don't know which side didn't work.
The positive wire is soldered the the screw so only so many turns of the screw can be made before the wire breaks off.
 
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TheBloke

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I bought a Kangxin in February, buttons fell out a couple weeks ago, and 3FVape was kind enough to replace it for free, and let me go with a Waidea for a $2.00 upcharge. I was just mentioning that I had originally ordered a black Kangxin because their silver finish is horrid to my eyes, but wanted a silver Waidea because that finish looks great, and silver is usually my preferred mod color.

As for your package not showing, it's not unusual for it to take a few days for the first scan to show up from China Post, it usually doesn't update until it gets to the big sorting center, and then shows the pick up from the vendor/arriving at local post, and arrival and departure from the sorting center all in one update. After that it's in tracking limbo for a time. Good news is, China to UK/your door is usually faster than China to US, for some reason.

Ahh, makes sense re the swap - glad you got the Waidea too, it definitely sounds like it's the best one available at the moment.

I chose black for mine because in the photos/videos it looks better - I find stainless a bit boring, because so many of devices are that already. But I'm now wondering if I possibly made the wrong choice, reading someone saying that the black might scratch, and show scratches, really easy. I'll probably keep it in that felt bag thing when not in use :)

And thanks very much for confirming re the shipping & putting my mind at rest!

Don't know why Nicole hasn't posted. She sent this on 3/29.

That sounds awesome! Thanks for posting it. EDIT: I see now it was a PM. Maybe she's just not had time to write it up? I'm guessing if she wrote all that info it's because she wanted people to know, not just you. But yeah maybe you should double check with her if it's OK.

Actually Czechoslovakian doesn't exist (never did as a language) It's either Czech or Slovak. :)

The video is in Czech btw. If I get the time, I'll translate it (if it's of any interest).

Definitely of interest! Although if it's a lot of work, it's not so important now that we have Nicole's extended analysis. But if you felt like doing it, it would of course be much appreciated!
 
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TheBloke

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FT is showing a v4 version of a 40w flask. Has a ss 510 w/fixed brass center pin. Would it be too hard to make it adjustable???

Curious, they don't list temp protection on that one.

The Waidea already has the SS 510 w/fixed pin, so that's not a difference. Given it doesn't list TC I'm guessing this is another line of clones - there seem to be a few parallel strands, at least three:


Kangxin, with TC (not 100% sure on the versions of this one)
  • v1 - VF label on bottom was not engraved, just printed. No USB charging. Brass 510 I think.
  • v2 - engraved logo, USB charging, brass 510 with floating pin.

Waidea/Sunlay, with TC. (Source: Waidea Vapor Flask V3 Mod)
  • v1 - fixed internal batteries, no battery covers, 30W
  • v2 - battery covers/removable batteries, 30W
  • v3 - 40W, SS 510 fixed pin, the one we see today on 3F - closest to 1:1 clone

Infinite, I think? - without TC; just a guess at the versions here, I've definitely seen a couple of versions of non-TC clones
  • v? - 30W
  • v? - 40W
  • v4 - 40W, SS 510 w/fixed pin.

I may have some/many of those particulars wrong, but I think that's the general idea - three main groups of clones.

Infinite also sell the chassis alone, which is what some companies - such as Angel Fire Mods in the UK - are using to make half-clones, i.e. the cloned Infinite flask with a genuine Evolv 40 in it.

The cloning world is nothing if not convoluted :)
 
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Tpat591

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Try installing just one battery and then switch it to the other side, in case you don't know which side didn't work.
The positive wire is soldered the the screw so only so many turns of the screw can be made before the wire breaks off.

Problem could also be that side of the balanced charging board is bad.
 

TheBloke

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Anyone know the weight of the genuine Vapor Flask 2.1? Doesn't seem to be part of any spec sheets, according to my Googling; maybe someone remembers a video reviewer who weighed it?

I ask because this Czech reviewer has weighed the Waidea VF and it's 168.8 grams - just wondering how that compares to the genuine.
 
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