Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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BlueridgeDog

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Thanks. It is not a show stopper and they are small issues that I am working around. I will put on a FD out of the parts bin next weekend...should have time. Still loving the vape...just put in the fourth rotation of batteries. Use kanthal most of the day with a magma dripper as I was mixing juice and that is my standard tester.
 

HolmanGT

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Thanks. It is not a show stopper and they are small issues that I am working around. I will put on a FD out of the parts bin next weekend...should have time. Still loving the vape...just put in the fourth rotation of batteries. Use kanthal most of the day with a magma dripper as I was mixing juice and that is my standard tester.

Just a quick FIY "Noalox" is nontoxic so there is no worry on that account. It is also recommended by ProVape. on their Mods.
 

tchavei

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Personally I like the redacted (formerly OCD) the best with a pure copper central pin but that's just my opinion. It's also the most expensive one of them. The tapping is a little weird (M9x0.75) but there is a reason for that. Most press fitted clones have a 8.5mm hole so you can tap that directly without need to enlarge it (which would risk an out of alignment which will then make the threads being out too and the connector not sitting flush on the mod).

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

dmazyn

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A coworker of mine got one the same time I did with copper and after two days using it without TC the chip just went black. He was filling up his subtank mini screwed it back on hit the button for a vape then nothing. The screen went black no response at all even after battery swap.

Mine is not the copper version and it is still running. I have been having issues with it reading the ohms on Ni200 builds different each time I refill my subtank which is getting frunstrating. I have tested it with a 454 Big block and it does the same misread of the ohms each time I remove the atty.

When it does read the ohms correctly it works pretty good it just takes some time to get it running correctly.
 

tchavei

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A coworker of mine got one the same time I did with copper and after two days using it without TC the chip just went black. He was filling up his subtank mini screwed it back on hit the button for a vape then nothing. The screen went black no response at all even after battery swap.

Mine is not the copper version and it is still running. I have been having issues with it reading the ohms on Ni200 builds different each time I refill my subtank which is getting frunstrating. I have tested it with a 454 Big block and it does the same misread of the ohms each time I remove the atty.

When it does read the ohms correctly it works pretty good it just takes some time to get it running correctly.
Nothing I haven't been thru with the original lol.

Now seriously, changing Ohms can hardly be blamed on the chip / board but rather at the atty or mod connection.

If you can vouch on your atties, change the mod's connector.

Regards
Tony

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BlueridgeDog

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Update: I have off and on gotten the weak battery error which I thought was due to the fact that there was anodizing on the bottom threads. That was until I took the last set out to charge and noted that only one was drained. Hmmmm. So upon investigating tonight there is a screw post adjustment on the top of the battery compartment. I unscrewed them 1/2 turn each and the caps now snug up to the batteries w/o bottoming out on the threads. Prior to doing this I was able to tighten the caps so the point of stopping due to running out of threads, not compression of the battery. After doing this the device rocks like usual.

I "assume" they intended this to be used for button top batteries, but with the small adjustment they now work for my flat tops AND it saved me from buying a tap to clean the threads which I was about to do.

So...use button tops or adjust for your flat tops.

Next is to replace the 510. I have noticed that, since it is threaded, you will slowly thread it in while changing attys. So I am keeping a 1mm gap between the atty and the chassis, so when the atty bottoms out, I know it is been driven down...another trick that has kept this little guy rocking.

Still loving it and I would still buy another (I have one on order).
 

SAX

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WE HAVE MOVEMENT :laugh::) :)




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HolmanGT

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Update: I have off and on gotten the weak battery error which I thought was due to the fact that there was anodizing on the bottom threads. That was until I took the last set out to charge and noted that only one was drained. Hmmmm. So upon investigating tonight there is a screw post adjustment on the top of the battery compartment. I unscrewed them 1/2 turn each and the caps now snug up to the batteries w/o bottoming out on the threads. Prior to doing this I was able to tighten the caps so the point of stopping due to running out of threads, not compression of the battery. After doing this the device rocks like usual.

I "assume" they intended this to be used for button top batteries, but with the small adjustment they now work for my flat tops AND it saved me from buying a tap to clean the threads which I was about to do.

So...use button tops or adjust for your flat tops.

Next is to replace the 510. I have noticed that, since it is threaded, you will slowly thread it in while changing attys. So I am keeping a 1mm gap between the atty and the chassis, so when the atty bottoms out, I know it is been driven down...another trick that has kept this little guy rocking.

Still loving it and I would still buy another (I have one on order).

Thanks Blue for the ongoing updates. None of the items you have run into are a show stopper for me.

Is the 510 connector negative have a solder post on it? If it does wouldn't a little Loctite solve the creep problem?
 
I'm happy for you, but there's a bit o' sour grapes since mine left 3FVape on the 7th, and has seen less movement than an old man after eating a block of gubbmit cheese.

I already had my vaporflask, but I got my wife a istick and myself a magma clone at around the same time. It left 3fvape at around the same time and today showed up on the tracker in NY. We'll see how long it takes to get down to SC given the winter weather, but I figure if I wait ~3 weeks whats another few days?
 
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