My bad .. Thank you too Croak
If I hear anything further I will let ya's know .. just glad that they took the recommendation to heart and got back to me fairly quickly. He even sent me pics of the brass ring terminal they will use.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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My bad .. Thank you too Croak
If I hear anything further I will let ya's know .. just glad that they took the recommendation to heart and got back to me fairly quickly. He even sent me pics of the brass ring terminal they will use.
I'm not surprised they will move quickly as it is in their best interests. Establishing a solid Ground at the 510 and from the GND terminal of the board to the chassis will solve most of the QC issues or complaints they have had with these. They will also find the unit stable in temperature protection mode with a floating 510 pin when the changes are implemented!My bad .. Thank you too Croak
If I hear anything further I will let ya's know .. just glad that they took the recommendation to heart and got back to me fairly quickly. He even sent me pics of the brass ring terminal they will use.
Thanks again my dear!
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Nikki said in her review that they tried it with a floating pin & weren't happy with the results so they went fixed instead. If it was properly grounded, a decent floating pin with a stiff spring that is not part of the circuit, would probably have had no issues with TP.
I cannot be bothered going after $4 from 3fvape. after all the time it took to get the actual flask from them I do not want any more headaches.
I wonder if there is anyway we can manually add a chassis ground under the top plate on our end?
Trying to drill any kind of hole will be difficult at best, but maybe grinding off the anodized color to bare metal and soldering a ground lead? Hmm
Trying to drill any kind of hole will be difficult at best, but maybe grinding off the anodized color to bare metal and soldering a ground lead? Hmm
A Dremel drum sander would go straight through the anodizing but you'd have to remove the sled to wire the ground to the board.
So excited, my silver Waidea VF V3 shipped from the FC US warehouse is out for delivery today, a day ahead of schedule!
Can't wait for my first venture into TC!
-Treeburner
Can't wait for my first venture into TC!
-Treeburner
You should be able to solder the new lead to the 510 alongside the existing one, since what it really needs is another ground path on the board, not necessarily another ground point. Assuming the 510 to chassis interface is good.
Soldering to aluminum is a real bugger, by the way. Willie's adhesive is your best bet for easy if you wanted a new ground point, and if you had some room to work and a good point on the chassis, you could also run a screw into it.
Soldering to aluminum is a real bugger, by the way. Willie's adhesive is your best bet for easy if you wanted a new ground point, and if you had some room to work and a good point on the chassis, you could also run a screw into it.
Soldering to aluminum? Unlikely. Long drill bit straight down into the board well lip above the usb, self tapping screw & a ring terminal maybe?
Got my Silver Waidea VF V3 during the forum DT, and I'm loving it! First attempt with Titanium was not successful, but after building a 10-wrap coil with 28g ni200 I'm happily vaping away using TC! I used the post holes in my Lemo 2 and used a bit of 316L through the holes so I wouldn't break the nickel, and it's working great! Had to increase the temp to around 530 to get the vape the way I wanted it, but that's likely due to the long legs. Awesome device, thoroughly enjoying vaping with TC!
-Treeburner
-Treeburner
316L is a type of stainless steel that can be used for making coils. It's VERY similar to gplat, which is 317L stainless.
-Treeburner
-Treeburner
Thanks Treeburner,
I have tried that with Kanthal on other attys it didn't work but that was toppers that had much bigger holes. I may have to give it a try on my Lemo 2.
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got mine also and i'm using TI, but mine had the glitch rite out of the box.....
the grounding glitch, set temp at 24 watts & fire it it goes to 35 then down to 2 then to 14 ect, then i let it go to sleep and fire it again and it stays between 2 watts or so but not over the setting and it hits great then......i e-mailed focal usa and they said i could send it back for replacement if i wanted but i'm sure they would just send another with the same problem; so i'm gonna live w/it and if it gets worse i'll try the top-plate fix.
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Sorry to hear that, I was worried mine had issues when I couldn't get the titanium wire in my first build to ever get up to temperature, but using 28g nickel it works like a charm (other than having to set the temp extra high to make up for the legs in the Lemo 2 post holes).
-Treeburner
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