Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

Status
Not open for further replies.

roxynoodle

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jun 19, 2014
15,344
37,212
Ohio
Well I have one of the Vapor Flask mods and I didn't have good luck at first and had to send it in for repair (Evolv DNA40) and it cost a Hel!! of a lot more that $39 dollars and way more than I should have spent. But one you get TC going I think you will find it hard to go back to Non-TC.

Anyway glad you are up and vaping Roxy. I salute your ability to stick with it and find the problem.

Its really been a shame with the Evolv chips. I've sent back 4 of them, and they gave me a very hard time about it. I think I'm done with Evolv. I'm from Ohio, so I hate to say I prefer Yihi chips, but I do.

I have other tc mods, but with my unwillingness to use nickel (allergy), I haven't really gotten into tc. Ti is ok. At least its not soft. But, dry hits haven't been a problem for me. Even using full SS tanks, I can tell by the flavor when it needs filled, and never dry hit.
 

Mooch

Electron Wrangler
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
  • May 13, 2015
    3,950
    15,468
    Hmm...
    - fused battery input.
    - 0.001 ohm current sense resistor, 1/2 the DNA40 value, potentially twice the current.
    - possibly a two-phase buck converter (regulator), with each phase handling one half of the current to keep component size and internal losses (heating) down versus a single larger regulator circuit.

    Oops, just realized that if it supports one cell that it can't be a two-phase, high current buck converter. It will have to be a 4-switch (MOSFET) buck-boost converter. But at 200W a boost converter could be pulling ridiculous current from the cell(s). And those B+/B- solder pads don't look that big. They look like the pads you'd use if you were operating from 3S and enjoying the low current pull from the cells that allows you. If 1S is supported, perhaps there are serious limits to the power/current levels? LOL...40W? All speculation though. :)
     

    Tpat591

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jul 28, 2014
    2,728
    9,711
    RB nj

    AtmizrOpin

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    May 18, 2015
    1,390
    1,453
    Pennsylvania
    That DNA 200 thread is a tough read. Between the Fanboys vs the naysayers and the LiOn vs. LiPo arguments your almost better off ignoring it completely.
    Lol tell me about it!!! If I hear one more f**king word about the possibility of a Lipo pack melting someone's face off, I'm going postal on that thread! I'll hit them with a fist full of temp control.:-x
    IMG_20150614_200656-1.jpg
     

    jstrong

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Dec 7, 2014
    849
    862
    Virginia
    Vapor Shark
    2 hrs ·
    Coming Soon, the Vapor Shark DNA 200. True 200w, Temp Control, Update-able Firmware, Full Balanced Charging, Individual Cell Monitoring and much more. ‪#‎vape‬ ‪#‎vaporshark‬ ‪#‎vapelife‬ ‪#‎vapeporn‬ ‪#‎vapor‬ ‪#‎evolv‬

    NO Thank You! Screw your family portrait and the person who took the portrait. I sent back 4 of these family members and I will be damn if I buy a 5th one to send back. Even if the chip is great the finish is still crap :nah: Sorry Evolv but the damage is done with me and your high wattage chip is too much too late for me. I'm surprised the portrait didn't have a glitch on it. Oh wait I see it...it scrambled then fixed itself only to glitch again
     
    • Like
    Reactions: pazalaza

    SotosB

    Full Member
    May 25, 2015
    46
    32
    50
    I took the weekend off, relaxed and as soon as I came back I took an ohmmeter and checked the connection with the tube caps on my SXK flask. It's the threads that have the problem. Although I 've cleaned them by soft brushing and alcohol, it didn't help that much. It's like it has a firm film that seals it. Anyway, I have it working by screwing the caps really tight. I have a solid connection now, and it works perfect. I run it on SS now, and TC works as it should. I'll keep checking the connections with the ohmmeter and I'll check the batteries tonight to see if they are drained evenly. By the way, I don't think it needs sanding the top cap. The screws make a good connection with the body.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: dwcraig1

    druckle

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Sep 20, 2013
    1,149
    2,193
    Scottsdale, Arizona, USA
    I took the weekend off, relaxed and as soon as I came back I took an ohmmeter and checked the connection with the tube caps on my SXK flask. It's the threads that have the problem. Although I 've cleaned them by soft brushing and alcohol, it didn't help that much. It's like it has a firm film that seals it. Anyway, I have it working by screwing the caps really tight. I have a solid connection now, and it works perfect. I run it on SS now, and TC works as it should. I'll keep checking the connections with the ohmmeter and I'll check the batteries tonight to see if they are drained evenly. By the way, I don't think it needs sanding the top cap. The screws make a good connection with the body.
    I've had the same kind of problem. I used a microscrew driver to sort of scrape along the threads removing some of the anodized coating on the threads. That probably would have solved the problem by itself but I had a tube of silver containing conductive grease and put a very small amount on the threads and then wiped most of it off. Anyway...now all is well. You might want to at least scrape the threads a little.

    Duane
     

    nikolis2000

    Full Member
    May 14, 2015
    13
    4
    39
    .I have a kangxin vf clone and now im rocking an aromamizer.My build is 25g ni200 , on 3mm drill and the res is 0.08ohm at 30watts.Im new at ni200 builds.My question is when i try liquids with higher than 50/50 vg the whole "thing" doesnt work right.Tp kicks in almost instantly and then goes on at low watts and low vape quality as a result.this happens with all my builds. 0.16ohm at aris pro and 0.12 at kfl+ with 28awg
    Even if i fully saturate the coil with 70vg or higher and press fire it goes like: 30w->temp.prot.->8w->10w->temp.prot->8 watt.After that if i put 50pg or more it works fine.Like vg is too thick and cant use it i dont know
    this is what i mean .A video i made.IT is fully saturated with 80vg/20pg base.

     

    TheotherSteveS

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jan 14, 2015
    5,232
    6,814
    Birmingham, England
    that is a lot of metall you have in there for a start. Second, at 0.08ohms you are pushing the kangxin's tolerance for low ohm cutoff. To me it looks like it is not wicking as it is reaching temp but you arent getting any vapour at all. Either that or the thing is misreading the resistance. Having said that 11 wraps of 25g around 3mm should be at 0.08ish so that looks ok.

    Have you tried pushing the powere to say 40w or higher and then drip on some juice as you fire. If that gives good vapour, I would say it is definitely a wicking issue (and maybe you need more power to get that huge coil to heat up properly). Regardlees, high VG juice should work just fine :) I only use 80:20 in drippers but I certainly dont use 25g!!
     

    TheotherSteveS

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jan 14, 2015
    5,232
    6,814
    Birmingham, England
    Did you notice how it flashed temp protect after he let go of the fire button? The real DNA 40 does that. The Rayn board doesn't. I'm thinking that's a real $300 flask. Also look how flush the up and down buttons are. Could be wrong though.

    I think you may be right there! If so, they are very naughty!!!
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread