Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Crazy Wire and Vape Mesh (same company I think) in UK have SS wire but not sure about intl shipping..
Yupper! Several Heathkits I put together including an old-fashioned "rats nest" vacuum tube CB base radio. (That was a quite a challenge to say the least!)
I could tweak the heck out of it though...
Great to hear about the SXK!
Yeah Crazy/Vape Mesh have SS 317L and I have two spools of it (25 and 29G) and it's great. Shipping to the US is about $15 I think. The good news is that you pay 20% less than the price listed on their website, because the listed prices include VAT (sales tax) which is not applicable for non-EU residents.
I recommend getting it from Vape Mesh because they have a few more sizes than Crazy
http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/317L-Stainless-Steel.html
I've spoken to a couple of people who have tried both 316 and 317 and the general consensus was there wasn't much noticeable difference between them. I don't know anyone who's tried 304, so don't know how that compares.
thanks !
ended up with crazy wire because other vendor's paypal was broken, shame tho they were giving free kanthal and cotton with purchase
Oh, and Zivipf in Germany have both 304 and 316 SS:
V4A Stainless Steel Wire - Zivipf Onlineshop
We know their wire to be good in general because we're using their Titanium Grade 1. Only problem with it is it's not pre-cleaned, so it requires wiping with IPA or just a damp cloth. That might apply to their Stainless as well.
So if you did particularly want 304 or 316, and/or Zivipf are cheaper shipping to US, check out Zivipf.
PS: On Zivipf, V2A Stainless = 304; V4A = 316
V4A Stainless Steel Wire - Zivipf Onlineshop
We know their wire to be good in general because we're using their Titanium Grade 1. Only problem with it is it's not pre-cleaned, so it requires wiping with IPA or just a damp cloth. That might apply to their Stainless as well.
So if you did particularly want 304 or 316, and/or Zivipf are cheaper shipping to US, check out Zivipf.
PS: On Zivipf, V2A Stainless = 304; V4A = 316
I went for 317L as it seemed the most popular, hope 30awg will be good in either subtank or zephyrus ^^ cant wait to try
Great!
It's a really good material. Really strong and super easy to coil - at least the 25G I've used is, and I'm sure 30 will be good too. Works for contact/micro coils (you need to pre-pulse a bit to get it to oxidise enough to not short out; TC won't work for the first few pulses).
I haven't used it for a while because I moved on to spending a lot of time with Resistherm NiFe30 and Titanium, but I'll go back to it soon and post more findings and temp tests in the Beyond Ni200 thread.
It's a really good material. Really strong and super easy to coil - at least the 25G I've used is, and I'm sure 30 will be good too. Works for contact/micro coils (you need to pre-pulse a bit to get it to oxidise enough to not short out; TC won't work for the first few pulses).
I haven't used it for a while because I moved on to spending a lot of time with Resistherm NiFe30 and Titanium, but I'll go back to it soon and post more findings and temp tests in the Beyond Ni200 thread.
How about this nifty doodad. I doubt it's an authentic DNA 40, but still looks neat. Rail Box Style Evolv DNA 40 Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage Box Mod - Black, Aluminum + Brass, 1~40W, 1 x 18650 - 3FVape
It says that its a real DNA40
But at just $85 you're most likely correct and its not. Isn't the chip like $75 in small quantities? Can't see how a few thousand, assuming they're making that many, would get the cost low enough to make $85 retail possible.
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I agree. Their add looks to me like an effort at implied false advertising and that alone turns me off as a sales tactic. Even someone who out and out copies and doesn't use another manufacturers name in their advertising rises up half a rung or so on my acceptable list.
Duane
The screen shown in the photo is not an authentic DNA 40.
The screen shown in the photo is the standard Rayn board - as per Waidea and Kangxin VF, Kangxin Mini VF, Heatvape Invader, and any number of other DNA 40 clones.
You can tell because the temp and ohms are left-justified; the authentic, and the SXK board, have them right justified such that the Ω and C/F symbol are lined up, and you will see a small space to the left of the temp setting, like this:
Also I don't think the genuine ever says ---Ω, it says 0.00Ω instead, but the Rayn board definitely does (or has done in the past.)
But I've never seen 3FVape claim something is authentic when it's not, and they clearly claim it's an authentic DNA 40 chip.
Maybe they have a different board in the photos? Could they have prototyped with a Rayn and then put the authentic in later?
That's really confusing. I'm going with the weird explanation above - different board in the photos than the genuine it will ship with - because I'd be really surprised if they specifically said authentic when it's not, but I am 99% certain the screen in the photo cannot be the genuine for the two differences mentioned above.
(Unless there was an early revision of the genuine that was different? And these are really old stock photos??)
The screen shown in the photo is the standard Rayn board - as per Waidea and Kangxin VF, Kangxin Mini VF, Heatvape Invader, and any number of other DNA 40 clones.
You can tell because the temp and ohms are left-justified; the authentic, and the SXK board, have them right justified such that the Ω and C/F symbol are lined up, and you will see a small space to the left of the temp setting, like this:
Also I don't think the genuine ever says ---Ω, it says 0.00Ω instead, but the Rayn board definitely does (or has done in the past.)
But I've never seen 3FVape claim something is authentic when it's not, and they clearly claim it's an authentic DNA 40 chip.
Maybe they have a different board in the photos? Could they have prototyped with a Rayn and then put the authentic in later?
That's really confusing. I'm going with the weird explanation above - different board in the photos than the genuine it will ship with - because I'd be really surprised if they specifically said authentic when it's not, but I am 99% certain the screen in the photo cannot be the genuine for the two differences mentioned above.
(Unless there was an early revision of the genuine that was different? And these are really old stock photos??)
Gee I get the impression you are really reaching to be gentlemanly.The screen shown in the photo is not an authentic DNA 40.
The screen shown in the photo is the standard Rayn board - as per Waidea and Kangxin VF, Kangxin Mini VF, Heatvape Invader, and any number of other DNA 40 clones.
You can tell because the temp and ohms are left-justified; the authentic, and the SXK board, have them right justified such that the Ω and C/F symbol are lined up, and you will see a small space to the left of the temp setting, like this:
Also I don't think the genuine ever says ---Ω, it says 0.00Ω instead, but the Rayn board definitely does (or has done in the past.)
But I've never seen 3FVape claim something is authentic when it's not, and they clearly claim it's an authentic DNA 40 chip.
Maybe they have a different board in the photos? Could they have prototyped with a Rayn and then put the authentic in later?
That's really confusing. I'm going with the weird explanation above - different board in the photos than the genuine it will ship with - because I'd be really surprised if they specifically said authentic when it's not, but I am 99% certain the screen in the photo cannot be the genuine for the two differences mentioned above.
(Unless there was an early revision of the genuine that was different? And these are really old stock photos??)
Duane
No I'm serious! One might think the worst of any given vendor (I don't, but one might!) and still not think they would say authentic anything when it's not - those Chinese vendors are usually particularly careful about that sort of stuff. FastTech pulls products at the slightest whiff of risk, and although Focal and 3F take a little more risks (have to, being smaller I suppose), I still can't see them specifically saying "authentic", with the logo and everything, unless it really is.
That's a lawsuit waiting to happen.
But then the photo in the screen isn't, so it's really confusing!
That's a lawsuit waiting to happen.
But then the photo in the screen isn't, so it's really confusing!
Evening, I have been lurking here a bit over the past week, just got back from the deepest darkest jungle, and am wondering something.
These knockoff's any good for longevity, or are they just pretty?
Sincerely,
Boden
These knockoff's any good for longevity, or are they just pretty?
Sincerely,
Boden
well, I've gone through 2 Kangxins since the end of march... one is completely dead, won't even turn on and, the other one has a borked 510. both have been binned
I have a V4 coming, not sure who it's made by but we'll see how that one pans out so, theres my thoughts on kangxin!
I have three that need grounding issues tweaked, but have moved on to all DNA40 mods myself with six or eight chips left to make into mods. I have gotten them out when the wife has broken one, but at this point they are backup TC mods.
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