Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
That 'mod' thing was weird to me too, joining the community as a newbie a few months ago. I was like "mod to what?" 
APV is the "new" lingo, as in Automatic Personal Vaporiser, but it hasn't really caught on for most people I think
APV is the "new" lingo, as in Automatic Personal Vaporiser, but it hasn't really caught on for most people I think
I thought APV stood for Advanced Personal Vaporizer... Good to know.
Are any of these clones better than the others. My need to play is strong. Even if the chip dies I have the tools to mod in another.
Are any of these clones better than the others. My need to play is strong. Even if the chip dies I have the tools to mod in another.
Oh, maybe it does haha. See, told you it hadn't caught on
I thought it was Automatic as in Regulated, automatic on the voltage. But Advanced works just as well
EDIT: You're right, it's Advanced
I thought it was Automatic as in Regulated, automatic on the voltage. But Advanced works just as well
EDIT: You're right, it's Advanced
The Kangxin is pretty ropey in terms of build quality. The Waidea is much better, close to 1:1 in terms of fit and finish. Then the new SXK is my current favourite: physically it's mostly good, although the black suffers from anodized gunk in the battery threads which usually requires scraping out. Some people also need to remove the top plate and sand the underneath, and top of the mod, for the same reason. The Waidea used to have that problem even worse - because it lacked a proper ground cable - but Waidea have said that has been fixed. I'm not sure anyone's bought a Waidea recently and reported back.
A downside of the Waidea is it doesn't have floating/sprung 510 pin, nor is it adjustable. I have a couple of attys that won't register on it unless I adjust their pins quite a bit. The Kangxin is not sprung but it is adjustable, but that goes wrong a lot.
The SXK is my personal choice both because it has a sprung pin (quite a good one), and more because it's the most advanced chip. It suffers from a low resistance problem (which I have informed them about and they have promised to fix), but it also has a feature called Nickel Purity which allows one to adjust the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance, the number used in TC calculations to turn the resistance rise into a calculated temperature rise. This means the SXK can be changed to readily support TC vaping with Titanium and Stainless Steel wire. Titanium is possible on authentic DNA 40s, and clones, with a temperature offset, but Stainless Steel is not.
It reads all coils at least 0.04Ω too low, and can be a lot more. This affects the accuracy of TC. However Nickel Purity can be used to adjust for this - a higher than usual NP setting compensates for the lower-than-real resistance calculation.
Other advantages are that it's 60W versus 40W for the Kangxin and Waidea, and supports °C temps, if you care about that, and it has a slightly larger, crisper screen. (Though it's also very hard to see in direct sunlight, unlike the Waidea.)
See my detailed full review of the SXK flask in this thread, here.
For much more discussion on TC vaping with wires other than Ni200, including more discussion on the SXK Nickel Purity feature, see my thread here - I explain a fair bit in the first two posts: TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
Out of the box the SXK vapes pretty well with Ni200, because they already adjusted Nickel Purity up from its standard Ni200 figure, compensating for the low resistance. For other wires like Titanium and Stainless Steel, one can vape them pretty well by adjusting NP a little higher than would be expected from that wire's TCR. That won't mean much unless/until you read the above thread - for now all you need to know is that if you want to TC Vape Titanium (which is recommended, it's a great wire), you would set NP to 40. For Stainless Steel, a figure of 11 or 12 is likely best.
In terms of absolute TC accuracy, the SXK is not great. It fluctuates about a bit, and its TC response is a little.. jerky. Sometimes you can hear it almost 'pulsing' the coil, as it applies a wattage, then stops, then applies, then stops. The Waidea is definitely smoother, more like the authentic DNA. But I still get good TC vapes off my SXK and I love the ability to properly vape Titanium and Stainless Steel, something almost no other currently-released mods (even authentic) support. Though more and more are adding Titanium and some are considering Stainless too.
I plan to do TC accuracy testing of both of them with the thermocouple thermometer I recently bought, so I'll have more absolute figures soon.
TLDR: The Waidea is a good flask, the SXK is arguably a better flask in several ways especially the sprung pin and ability to easily TC vape wires other than Ni200. But there's a couple more things you might need to know about using it, and if you get the black you will probably find yourself doing a fair bit of scraping/cleaning to get it working reliably.
You can get the SXK from FocalECig here: Silver; Black
The Waidea flasks are on 3FVape here: Silver; Black
Oh,and yet another option is the Waidea Squonk clone - single battery with built in bottle and bottom-feeding 510. That's here on 3FVape, but not yet released. It'll have the same chip as the Waidea VF, and I believe also the same fixed, non-sprung 510 but I might be wrong about that.
Thanks for that very thorough answer. I'm still vaping at 2 ohm, Kanthal A-1 at around 8W.
Bit of a dinosaur I suppose
Material science is kinda my thing
so I'll do what I can to help. Sincerely,
Boden
Thanks for that very thorough answer. I'm still vaping at 2 ohm, Kanthal A-1 at around 8W.
Bit of a dinosaur I suppose
Hey, any vape - at least any vape beyond a Cig-a-like - is a good vape. And hell, if cig-a-likes keep someone off cigarettes, even they are not terrible.
It's funny. I resisted vaping for literally years. I associated it with quitting cigs. I was sure it was going to taste nasty, give no smoke/vapour, and be generally as unpleasant as all the usual "nicotine reduction therapies".
Eventually in Feb of this year I decided that it was time to at least give it a go - I wanted to save money (ha! the irony.)
I bought one of those cig-a-likes and it was nearly as bad as I feared. Nasty taste. Almost no vapour. Looked stupid. But the big news was that despite all that, I cut down overnight from 30+ cigs to only 5, plus endless puffs on the cig-a-like.
Two days later, when looking for a refill for the crap-a-like, I found a vaping B+M that sold proper vaping gear. 650mah detachable battery! A special, refillable 'cartomizer'! A range of juices in different flavours!
So I got one of their kits, and that was the last day I ever smoked. Finally I understood what vaping was all about. This wonderful Ego battery, my cartomizer with its 2.7Ω coil, it was just superb. Flavour, lots of vapour, I could vape all day indoors, throw away all my cig crap. Now I understood why so many people vaped.
It was about a week later that I remembered that the shop I was in had a few other batteries, and I thought it might be nice to get one with a bit more power. On that site I had a 1300mah Ego in my cart, and was just checking around for other options, when someone in a comment happened to mention how a certain battery worked OK with his "Innokin" tank. What the hell was an Innokin? Google on that and.. well, nearly four months later, I've spent probably four or five times as much as I would have on cigarettes, I have mods that I have put on a temperature probe but haven't even vaped on yet, enough wire to stretch from here to France, and so many tanks I can't even remember which ones I have any more.
I think it's fair to say I dove in with both feet
But the funny thing is, had I been distracted with other things at the time, had I never got around to doing that Google on "innokin" - as indeed I never got around to ever googling vaping at all until I'd already bought a Kit - I'd still be puffing away happily on my little Ego 650mah and 2.7Ω cartomizer, thinking vaping was the best thing in the world All the rest is just gravy
Well, and a fun (if expensive) hobby Material science is kinda my thing
Awesome!
I did the same thing when I started. Heck I went so far as to start a company making fused Al2O3 wicks for genesis atomizers. Life got in the way though and that didn't work out. (got called up, don't ask) You'll settle down... maybe
While I'm not quite sure I think the term "mod" is short for modified flashlight.
Other than the form of the Vapor Flask, why is everyone wasting money on these MODs?
Just by a iPV4 for a few dollars more and be done with it, much better performing MOD that these replica VFs IMHO.
The iPV4 is more comfortable to hold also and batteries last longer too.
Just by a iPV4 for a few dollars more and be done with it, much better performing MOD that these replica VFs IMHO.
The iPV4 is more comfortable to hold also and batteries last longer too.
I bought a Kangxin a little over three months ago. Despite some abuse and being dropped (hard) and knocked over quite a few times it is still going strong. The only issue is that the 510 is made of a soft copper alloy which has worn threads, and now my atomizers wobble around a bit. I have a black SXK on the way.
I really like the form factor of the Flask, it's pretty, and comfortable to hold and the dual batteries give it great longevity. The main downside for me is the size and weight when out and about. But this is the same for many/all dual battery mods. The Kangxin is now semi-retired, and once I've tried out the SXK it will be getting shelved till after the vapocolypse.
I really like the form factor of the Flask, it's pretty, and comfortable to hold and the dual batteries give it great longevity. The main downside for me is the size and weight when out and about. But this is the same for many/all dual battery mods. The Kangxin is now semi-retired, and once I've tried out the SXK it will be getting shelved till after the vapocolypse.
A strange thought came to mind, this would not fit on the board "Raytheon V4, but this does "Rayn V4". I wonder.
The quality issues with the DNA40 and the Chinese TC invasion probably left Evolv with a more inventory than they'd like to be sitting on with a new product rolling out as well. And I'm pretty sure their current crop of non-Asian mod partners aren't looking to place any large DNA40 orders when the DNA200 (and variants?) are just around the corner, and they might have excess inventory too.
So at this point, I wouldn't be surprised to see Evolv (or their partners) dumping excess inventory of DNA40 boards on the Chinese market at a decent price. Two birds with one stone, move product AND hurt the ChiNA40 board makers. Not saying that's the actual case, but it's plausible.
And with the DNA200 being their new flagship, there's less issues with their partners and "exclusivity" by selling boards to smaller tier Chinese shops.
I'm posting this in every thread I follow that hasn't seen it yet. Please sign the Change.org petition and consider joining CASAA!
Change {dot} org petition for congress to reject the deeming regs | E-Cigarette Forum
Become a CASAA Member
BOTH ARE FREE!
Just requires 5 min of your time to do both...
Just requires 5 min of your time to do both...
Change {dot} org petition for congress to reject the deeming regs | E-Cigarette Forum
Become a CASAA Member
Well, after using the rDNA40 (original) for a few months, I wanted the vaporflask because of the dual batteries. I also loved the look of it, however I didn't like the price tag of £250!!! I almost bit the bullet as i didn't like the clones, but I found one supplier here in the UK which not only makes a beautiful clone, but uses a genuine DNA40 chip.
So I bit the bullet and bought it.
My review after one day:
Great build quality. Even the battery latches sit flush and fire button feels lovely.
All the genuine features and 6 month warranty. I'm really happy. I use my Atlantis V2 on it with nickel obviously and my rDna has the mega tank on it.
For some reason, I don't need to use as high a wattage on the flask as I do on the rDNA. Maybe because of dual battery? I dunno.
Link if anyone is interested and please feel free to ask any questions on what I think about it.
FLASK + EVOLV DNA40D - BUILT BY ANGELFIREMODS - ANGELFIREMODS
So I bit the bullet and bought it.
My review after one day:
Great build quality. Even the battery latches sit flush and fire button feels lovely.
All the genuine features and 6 month warranty. I'm really happy. I use my Atlantis V2 on it with nickel obviously and my rDna has the mega tank on it.
For some reason, I don't need to use as high a wattage on the flask as I do on the rDNA. Maybe because of dual battery? I dunno.
Link if anyone is interested and please feel free to ask any questions on what I think about it.
FLASK + EVOLV DNA40D - BUILT BY ANGELFIREMODS - ANGELFIREMODS
Ah cool, I looked hard at that AngelCigs hybrid. I even emailed them right before I bought the Waidea to ask if they had any cancelled orders they could ship immediately - to avoid their two-week "built to order" delay. They didn't, so I went for the Waidea. At the time £100 seemed a lot, but considering how much I've spent since - including on an authentic DNA 40 mod - I now rather wish I'd got the Angelcigs Flask!
Really pleased to hear it works well! Not surprising - it's the standard Infinite/SXK chassis combined with the authentic chip of course, and I'm sure Angel have done a good job putting it together and making sure it works perfectly.
FYI the dual battery won't affect the required wattage, only the total battery capacity. The DNA 40 pulls the same max amps and provides the same output voltage with either one or two 18650s.
Are you comparing like with like, ie moving a tank from one to another (and letting it cool down first if it's a TC build/coil), then vaping it on the other and noticing a difference?
Are the resistance readings identical?
There are some issues that sometimes affect mods, such as poor grounding, which can cause the chip to put out less power than configured - eg you set 30W but it's only putting out 15 or 20. But I had thought that would cap the max watts it can put out, meaning it wouldn't help to turn the watts up higher. Do you notice any difference in the rDNA's output power with a fully charged battery versus one with half or less capacity?
A difference in resistance reading might certainly explain it - that will definitely effect any TC vape - so that would be the first thing I'd check. But as long as you can get a good vape from both that's the most important thing.
Really pleased to hear it works well! Not surprising - it's the standard Infinite/SXK chassis combined with the authentic chip of course, and I'm sure Angel have done a good job putting it together and making sure it works perfectly.
FYI the dual battery won't affect the required wattage, only the total battery capacity. The DNA 40 pulls the same max amps and provides the same output voltage with either one or two 18650s.
Are you comparing like with like, ie moving a tank from one to another (and letting it cool down first if it's a TC build/coil), then vaping it on the other and noticing a difference?
Are the resistance readings identical?
There are some issues that sometimes affect mods, such as poor grounding, which can cause the chip to put out less power than configured - eg you set 30W but it's only putting out 15 or 20. But I had thought that would cap the max watts it can put out, meaning it wouldn't help to turn the watts up higher. Do you notice any difference in the rDNA's output power with a fully charged battery versus one with half or less capacity?
A difference in resistance reading might certainly explain it - that will definitely effect any TC vape - so that would be the first thing I'd check. But as long as you can get a good vape from both that's the most important thing.
Well, I used the same tank on both. The Vape is the same, but my flask seems to require a lower setting than the rDna. Not sure why.
Same Vape.
I had noticed that the VS sometimes doesn't reach temp on the screen, and the resistance it reads tends to change.
The flask is reading .15ohms while the VS is reading .18. Both from cold. Very strange.
It isn't the gold chip in the flask so it doesn't have the atty lock "feature"
I wonder what the DNA200 will actually offer me with temp sensing.
Yeah OK it's the resistance difference. The VS is reading too high, and this is throwing out the TC calculations. Base coil resistance is a vital factor in the TC calculations, as are the ongoing resistance readings as the coil heats up (which you don't see on screen on most TC mods, including the DNA 40.)
The fact that you're seeing the VS seemingly not reaching temp is another good indication of too-high resistance.
So if you find that, say, 420°F / 215°C is a good vape on the Angel VF, the same vape will be achieved with a lower temp setting on the VS - perhaps even as low as 310°F / 155°F, but probably somewhere in between.
Ultimately as long as you can find a temp that gives a good vape and doesn't give dry hits when the tank empties / the cotton dries, that's all that matters. That probably means a lower temp setting on the VS than the VF, but once you find a suitable offset it'll likely work more or less the same for any different atty/builds/coils you might then use in future.
The fact that you're seeing the VS seemingly not reaching temp is another good indication of too-high resistance.
So if you find that, say, 420°F / 215°C is a good vape on the Angel VF, the same vape will be achieved with a lower temp setting on the VS - perhaps even as low as 310°F / 155°F, but probably somewhere in between.
Ultimately as long as you can find a temp that gives a good vape and doesn't give dry hits when the tank empties / the cotton dries, that's all that matters. That probably means a lower temp setting on the VS than the VF, but once you find a suitable offset it'll likely work more or less the same for any different atty/builds/coils you might then use in future.
Ahhh. I have never had dry hits with either.
I'm thinking 480 degrees on the flask, but I'm worried that's too hot for the cotton. 450 and I can even lower the wattage to 25.
OK, well if you haven't had any dry hits on the VS it's probably nothing to worry about. Technically it may not be accurate, but there's a reasonably wide margin of error in which you can both get a good vape and not get dry hits.
What temp setting you use depends a lot on the build. Did you mention coil heads? They often require much higher settings, even at 500°F, and they won't burn. Coil heads can be quite different to built coils; they have much longer legs for one thing, and this affects the TC accuracy. Setting 500°F with a coil head doesn't mean the coil actually reaches 500°F.
What temp setting you use depends a lot on the build. Did you mention coil heads? They often require much higher settings, even at 500°F, and they won't burn. Coil heads can be quite different to built coils; they have much longer legs for one thing, and this affects the TC accuracy. Setting 500°F with a coil head doesn't mean the coil actually reaches 500°F.
- Status
Similar threads
