It sounds like the 510 pin or the wire to it is hitting the positive battery connector. It's certainly easy enough to remove the top plate to see it.
I'll open mine now and have a look, pic is old.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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I'll open mine now and have a look, pic is old.
Yep you should find that the end of the spring for the positive battery connection has made it's way above the plastic frame work.
Note the green arrow.
Note the green arrow.
Hey Craig. Thanks so much for your quick response. You have just saved my flask from the dreaded drawer.
Turns out my spring was a smidge out of that plastic. So I just took some plumber's tape and insulated the spring by layering it on top.
Thanks again friend!
Turns out my spring was a smidge out of that plastic. So I just took some plumber's tape and insulated the spring by layering it on top.
Thanks again friend!
Did you put the end of the spring back under the plastic frame?
Either that or a nice thick piece of electrical tape would work too right? Cos I don't have a glue gun.
How hell did his board not short out if the 510 connector made contact with the positive battery terminal? I fried two boards like that.It sounds like the 510 pin or the wire to it is hitting the positive battery connector. It's certainly easy enough to remove the top plate to see it.
I'll open mine now and have a look, pic is old.
Hey guys, remember we were talking about the SXK not showing Low Battery, just fading out watts. @TheotherSteveS @dwcraig1 and I can't remember whose flask it was that triggered the discussion.
Anyway, I said that I hadn't noticed the issue on my new Nebula. I have now.
The first battery I ran through the Nebula was a brand new Sony VTC 5. That worked fine, down to showing Low Battery at 3.2 or 3.3V.
The second battery I put in it was a six-weeks-old EFest 3500mah. Not nearly as good quality battery to begin with, and has been through a dozen or so charge/discharges compared to the brand new VTC 5.
Tonight, when the battery was at 3.3V (as I later found), I was getting a tiny amount of output from the mod when I fired. Battery bar showed some charge, and no Low Batt message.
I was firing in TC mode set to 225°C and 25W. It was almost immediately dropping to <8W and giving almost no vapour; seemingly like a TC issue.
So I switched it to VW mode (I was using a Resistherm coil, which you can fire in VW or TC; it's OK to heat it to glowing.)
Here's the really interesting thing, which is both kind of cool and also (more) annoying! In VW mode, it still gave almost no vapour, but the weird thing is that it also showed the watts dropping! So I had it set to 25W, but when firing the screen would immediately show the watts dropping to 10W and below. In VW mode!
I switched out the battery for a freshly charged VTC 5 and then it fired properly both in VW and TC.
So it's kind of cool, in theory, that in VW mode the mod was showing me that it wasn't firing the configured 25W. Cool because it seems to demonstrate that the screen is updated from what the watts are, rather than being always being a static display of what the mod intends to fire, as it would be in most/all other mods when they have ground or whatever issues (eg Waidea.)
But far more than that it's also really annoying: a) because in TC mode this behaviour is indistinguishable from it lowering watts because of the coil being at temp and/or dry, and b) I don't want it to show me it's firing a lower wattage than configured; if it can't fire the watts I asked for, I want it to say Low Batt!
My guess is that a battery with high voltage drop/sag - like I'm sure the EFest has - is able to simultaneously appear (perhaps because of resting voltage) to have enough battery to continue without showing Low Batt, while also not being able to provide the requested watts due to voltage drop.
Maybe they've coded it in a strange way - separating out the Low Batt check and checking the battery's voltage at the wrong time, perhaps.
Anyway, there it is - it's again another problem generic to the SXK chip. But it may well be dependent on how much voltage drop you get in your batteries, and it may be less likely in a dual battery mod where the voltage drop per battery is halved. (At least I assume it is in parallel, like it definitely is for series?)
At some point I'll put 2 x EFest in my SXK VF and see if it happens there. So far I think I've run the flask exclusively with Samsung 25Rs which are likely a fair bit better. Or even just 1x EFest, which will presumably be more likely to show the issue.
I will report all this to SXK. I'm getting back to them on Monday with my thoughts on the Nebula.
Anyway, I said that I hadn't noticed the issue on my new Nebula. I have now.
The first battery I ran through the Nebula was a brand new Sony VTC 5. That worked fine, down to showing Low Battery at 3.2 or 3.3V.
The second battery I put in it was a six-weeks-old EFest 3500mah. Not nearly as good quality battery to begin with, and has been through a dozen or so charge/discharges compared to the brand new VTC 5.
Tonight, when the battery was at 3.3V (as I later found), I was getting a tiny amount of output from the mod when I fired. Battery bar showed some charge, and no Low Batt message.
I was firing in TC mode set to 225°C and 25W. It was almost immediately dropping to <8W and giving almost no vapour; seemingly like a TC issue.
So I switched it to VW mode (I was using a Resistherm coil, which you can fire in VW or TC; it's OK to heat it to glowing.)
Here's the really interesting thing, which is both kind of cool and also (more) annoying! In VW mode, it still gave almost no vapour, but the weird thing is that it also showed the watts dropping! So I had it set to 25W, but when firing the screen would immediately show the watts dropping to 10W and below. In VW mode!
I switched out the battery for a freshly charged VTC 5 and then it fired properly both in VW and TC.
So it's kind of cool, in theory, that in VW mode the mod was showing me that it wasn't firing the configured 25W. Cool because it seems to demonstrate that the screen is updated from what the watts are, rather than being always being a static display of what the mod intends to fire, as it would be in most/all other mods when they have ground or whatever issues (eg Waidea.)
But far more than that it's also really annoying: a) because in TC mode this behaviour is indistinguishable from it lowering watts because of the coil being at temp and/or dry, and b) I don't want it to show me it's firing a lower wattage than configured; if it can't fire the watts I asked for, I want it to say Low Batt!
My guess is that a battery with high voltage drop/sag - like I'm sure the EFest has - is able to simultaneously appear (perhaps because of resting voltage) to have enough battery to continue without showing Low Batt, while also not being able to provide the requested watts due to voltage drop.
Maybe they've coded it in a strange way - separating out the Low Batt check and checking the battery's voltage at the wrong time, perhaps.
Anyway, there it is - it's again another problem generic to the SXK chip. But it may well be dependent on how much voltage drop you get in your batteries, and it may be less likely in a dual battery mod where the voltage drop per battery is halved. (At least I assume it is in parallel, like it definitely is for series?)
At some point I'll put 2 x EFest in my SXK VF and see if it happens there. So far I think I've run the flask exclusively with Samsung 25Rs which are likely a fair bit better. Or even just 1x EFest, which will presumably be more likely to show the issue.
I will report all this to SXK. I'm getting back to them on Monday with my thoughts on the Nebula.
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Rayn and an evolv board fell victim to the 510 wire rubbing through the wire insulation and black tape eventually making contact with the top of the battery contact board.
This post is not about much. I built a 4 mm, 0.1 ohm ni200 coil and put it in a dripper. I then put it on an Evolv DNA 40 mod and fired it at 40 watts, it seemed like it could handle quite a bit more power so I put it on my SXK flask and set it to 50 watts and it did poorly, dropped into the 20's then up to around 38 watts. Waidea did well, Evolv sits right on 40 watts. I'm probably at the amp limit and this problem is affected by the SXK's low ohms bug but the Evolv board seems to work so much better.
But I really just wanted to say that the coil works real good, it's 26 gauge with crimp eyelets for legs.
But I really just wanted to say that the coil works real good, it's 26 gauge with crimp eyelets for legs.
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I sure hope so, very excited to get it...An excellent decision on your part... you won't regret it!
3FVapes cannot even do an accurate product description; in the main product tagline they state: 1 x 18650.
However, when you scroll down further on the page it states: 2 x 18650.
I wasted $60.00 on a Kangxin VF3 and now it's worthless. The soft brass 510 connector is shot. It's press-fitted into a the top flange and I can't get the damn thing out to replace with a far superior connector I got online.
It shuts down with around 3.3.-3.4 vdc left in the batteries.
The iPV4 I ordered put these in the proverbial dirt.
Mine doesn't show low battery either. Vape just gets weaker and weaker until it shows "Elove Dna 50w" and then asks if it's the same or new coil every time the fire button is pressed. I took the batteries out and placed on the charger, they were at 3.1v
Yeah that does look good. I went for a vinyl print wrap. I'd include a photo, but I can't figure out this new forum software lol.
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