Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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dwcraig1

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While the 1 second delay in firing and not staying locked on the Rayn board shouldn't maybe be all that bad it drives me buggy that it's there, what else in there is Mickey Mouse? They all seems to have some quirk, maybe they should all get together and call themselves "Together best cooperation" LOL
Oh wait, that's already taken.
 

dwcraig1

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Is there a concensus on which is the best choice between the various shortcomings? I really do like the form factor compared to the standard metal box.

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SXK/Gecko IMO. Silver seems to have the least problems with the battery cap threads but that's easy enough to remedy anyway.
 

seanol

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@bsoplinger,
I have the SXK and broke it when I dropped it. It wasn't a small fall but it broke. I liked it so much I bought another from Focal cig. I had some issues with Ni200 coils and really wanted to use Ti wire. The nickel purity settings allow me to adjust for Ti and kep the temps where I expect them.

Others have had good luck woth the Waieda as far as fewer issues. You would just have to adjust the temp down to compensate for the different resistance rise of the Ti wire.

Getting 60w and nickel purity was worth it to me and I have been very happy with the mod. I am just more careful now!

Let us know what you get.

Sean
 
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yo han

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I have a Kangxin 40W and SXK 60W and find it hard to recommend one of the two.

Kangxin: no spring loaded center pin, very soft metal 510 connector, no nickel purity setting

SXK: wrong Ohm readings, no warning/shutdown when battery is low, insulation beneath 510 connector needs DIY-ing to make it safe.

It's up to the individual buyer to judge which of these shortcomings are most important.
 

seanol

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@yo han,
Nice synopsis! What were your thoughts on the Waieda? Seems the only issue I have heard was the hot glue holding the chip in.

As to the SXK I agree, Using Ti helps with the low resistance as you can get into a higher rand=ge where it has less effect, but it is still there. I did not have the issue with th e 510 pin and the spring though.

Thanks,
Sean
 

yo han

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I've never used a Waidea so I have no idea. I'll give Ti a try and see how the SXK performs with that.
There are a couple of people describing the problem with the 510 center pin touching the battery spring. It can be solved quite easily but not everyone feels confident in having to DIY on a brand new product so that's why I mentioned it as one of the (possible) shortcomings.
 
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sonicbomb

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I have a 40W Kanxin which getting janky but still usable, and a 60W SXK which I'm still fixing. What I keep in mind is that I have a great mod that cost me 1/6th of the cost of the original. Plus, call me irregular, but I like a bit of a fiddle with my mods to get them working.
If I could get a Ferrari for the cost of a Ford Focus by scraping a bit of over-spray off the door seals, I would consider that a win for team me.
 

garyss

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Im trying to open the top-cap of the Waidea flask to fix the shorting issue. I tried Torx T4 screwdriver but its not working, dont want to force it any further as it seems that it'll strip.
Should I try Torx T5 or do you suggest to buy a hex screw driver? For hex screw driver, the store carries one set that contains 1.5/2.0/2.5/3.0mm bits. Which bit fits the hex screws on the waidea top cover exactly?

I think I might have *very slightly* stripped the hex holes while fiddlng with torx t4, and dont wanna take a second chance...

Would really appreciate your advise.
the screws are exactly a 50 thousands hex key.
I got mine at a hobby store in a set for about $60
gary
 
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