Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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auto2012

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Did they ask you to send it back?

May be a stuck fire switch or a short to the 510, but I think there is a problem with the board. Run over the contacts with a multimeter just to confirm the fire circuit is the culprit. You will have to touch top of flask to body to complete circuit to batteries (hence the sparking you saw earlier.

I unfortunately don't have a multimeter. I think they want it back don't know for sure. I also thought that the flask from Waidea didn't have a spring loaded 510, but this one has.

Also I'm scared to get another replacement of this as you never know it could start to auto fire at night and I wake up to a burned house


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auto2012

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Waidea is a good flask. You just seem to have been unlucky. The Rayn 04 they use is a good board. Even big name mods manufacturers have the occasional bad unit slip through. Get the replacement. Can't beat it for fit finish and function.
Do I have the latest with the spring loaded 510?


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auto2012

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Waidea probably made the change because SXK has taken most of the market share with higher wattage and nickel purity setting. I like the Waideas because they are way more 1:1 and have much nicer build quality.

I hope my replacement is better. Any ways thanks for your help


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dwcraig1

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Hi guys. I need help. I just got my vapor flask from Waidea from 3fvape.
It has a spring loaded 510.
But it auto fires when I have batteries installed(yes they are correctly installed, have tried with 1 battery and 2 batteries)

It doesn't read any ohms, it just auto fires when I screw the atomiser down. It feels like it bypasses the switch and just auto fires. I have opened the top but everything seems normal.


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It certainly could be a possibility that the 510 pin/wire could be hitting the positive battery connection on the 510's side of the case. Folks that replaced their 510 had to make allowances for clearance there.
 

Tpat591

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It certainly could be a possibility that the 510 pin/wire could be hitting the positive battery connection on the 510's side of the case. Folks that replaced their 510 had to make allowances for clearance there.
Usually when that happens it frys the board anyway right? It always seemed to be the case anyway - (never happened to me).
 

AtmizrOpin

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My board works. Just doesn't read ohm and doesn't fire when I hit the fire button just says check atomiser


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If it doesn't read your atty resistance or fire it, that sounds to me like your board doesn't work or you have a broken connection between the 510 and board somewhere. I fried two boards like that. Screwed down an atty and it immediately auto fired. Killed my boards.
 

auto2012

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If it doesn't read your atty resistance or fire it, that sounds to me like your board doesn't work or you have a broken connection between the 510 and board somewhere. I fried two boards like that. Screwed down an atty and it immediately auto fired. Killed my boards.

Hmm sound right. But can't see where there are any loose connections so it's probably s faulty board. But it must be shorting out somewhere for it to auto fire without pushing the button.
Ps I have to screw down my atty as much as possible for it to auto fire, it doesn't auto fire if it just screw it 75% or 90% etc. Even though the 510 of the atty he a connection to the 510 pos pin on the mod


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AtmizrOpin

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Hmm sound right. But can't see where there are any loose connections so it's probably s faulty board. But it must be shorting out somewhere for it to auto fire without pushing the button.
Ps I have to screw down my atty as much as possible for it to auto fire, it doesn't auto fire if it just screw it 75% or 90% etc. Even though the 510 of the atty he a connection to the 510 pos pin on the mod The positive pin(red wire)on the bottom or the 510 is touching the top of the battery positive (wire soldered to top of battery under 510) when you screw down an atty. When that happens you're completing the circuit, firing your atty and back feeding voltage to the board all at once. Essentially turning your flask into a mechanical mod when that happens. IMO. If 3fvape is sending you a new one don't tear it down any further, I'm guessing they want the defective one back? If not, you've got a great shell for an evolv board.

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I dunno why my response is inside the quote. Oh well whatever.
 

Tpat591

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Bad board probably. If you have a wire with alligator clips you could try clipping one side to the 510 negative and clipping the other side to bare metal at very top of flask chassis (screw hole) to complete the negative battery circuit and fire the board. If you can get the flask to turn on, You can then screw an atty into the 510 and press fire button on mod to see if it is working. Very doubtful it will work.

I'm wondering if this flask was sold to someone who put a floating 510 in it and shorted out the board and returned it to 3Fvape. They may have gotten mixed up and accidentally sent it out to you instead of returning it to Waidea.
 
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dwcraig1

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Bad board probably. If you have a wire with alligator clips you could try clipping one side to the 510 negative and clipping the other side to bare metal at very top of flask chassis to complete the negative battery circuit and fire the board. If you can get the flask to turn on, You can then screw an atty into the 510 and press fire button on mod to see if it is working. Very doubtful it will work.

I'm wondering if this flask was sold to someone who put a floating 510 in it and shorted out the board and returned it to 3Fvape. They may have gotten mixed up and accidentally sent it out to you instead of returning it to Waidea.
Interesting (the returned and sent back out part)
 
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