He's having trouble getting it to recognize kanthal... I've had this problem before would not switch over no matter what I tried and turning off to made it recognize kanthal immediately..
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Vapor Flask
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He's having trouble getting it to recognize kanthal... I've had this problem before would not switch over no matter what I tried and turning off to made it recognize kanthal immediately..
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WELP. Whoever is manning info@vaporflask has responded and will be swapping a brand new unit for me.
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The reason that they both should be at room temperature does seem like a pain at first, but it does make sense.
The board detects the resistance of the coil. It knows how much the resistance changes as temperature changes. So when it measures the resistance of the coil, and since there is no temperature monitoring in the atty itself, it relies on the temperature sensor on the board. So once it detects the resistance at the temperature the board is at when it detects, it has a reference. So as temperature of the coil changes, so will the resistance, and the board knows that. Think of it the same way you "Tare off" a food or postal scale to account for the container you are weighing in.
Ideally, I would like to see pads on the board to mount an external thermocouple in later builds to allow modders to mount a sensor further away from the board in order to read ambient temp vs using the on-board temp... Or perhaps allow you to store a couple of atty profiles so you can swap while chain vaping and not have to worry about the re-calibration for each atty
update to my post on page 42 post# 419:
battery gauge finally started going down around 3.4v(3/4 full)...showed close to empty at 3.17v
Now my usb charger isn't working. Red light is on but after 6 hours batteries were still at 3.17v.
battery gauge finally started going down around 3.4v(3/4 full)...showed close to empty at 3.17v
Now my usb charger isn't working. Red light is on but after 6 hours batteries were still at 3.17v.
Received my VF about an hour ago. Yep..... screen crooked like Pisa Tower. Have a question for the veterans with the DNA 40, does the ohms change a lot when you fire the device? Also i`ve noticed that when I fire it the voltage for a fraction of a second is lower than it has to be for the watts settings and then suddenly goes up but change a lot too along with the resistance. The resistance I have right now is stable and good as new.
Yes, mine would change around .05 at most. So say it was a 1.8ohm build. I would see it move from 1.79 to 1.83 roughly. I had to send mine back so might be a touch off but regardless it does move a bit with kanthal.
New batteries and Ni200 have arrived...but I'm not ordering my Flask until Evolv gets their act together.
I have a Vapor Flask v2. Had anyone else had issues with their battery readout being erratic? Just wondering before I send my unit in for repairs.
My V1 has been consistent. I'm guessing it's the same DNA30 chip as the V2? With what these cost, I'd definitely send it in. They should work perfectly, or be made to work perfectly IMHO.
How off? why do you feel the readout is erratic? I don´t see how (at least that part) it could be malfunctioning, that part is pretty basic. I`d venture to say maybe the batteries you are using are off. Did you use them in pairs, by that I mean if both where new when you first inserted them in your device.
I always use the batteries in pairs. I have used Sony VTC4's and 5's. When my batteries are half dead, the battery readout on the Vapor Flask will jump to empty then 1/4th full to half full. The gentlemen at Vapor Flask thinks it's the DNA 30 board. I never have the display tell me that my batteries are dead either. Yesterday my VTC5's had a 3.8 readout on my battery charger but the Vapor Flask wouldn't even accept them and kept resetting itself.
Hahahahahaha my unit does that too!
Then again my unit also keeps telling me my builds at 999F even when I haven't touched it in hours and indicated it was a new atty hahahaah
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hahahahaa you know what they say laughter is the best medicine, if only I could stop crying
I was so excited.....
Ok, some photos, apologies for the quality.
As you can see on the last one, the screen is a bit wonky but I think I can probably live with that. Also the scratch by the 510, but is hidden by the atomiser.
I haven't received my NI200 yet so haven't tried that, but it's working like a dream in Kanthal mode (so far, fingers crossed). I'm using new 25R's in it, picture taken just before swapping them out, and they are tight but fit ok, without damaging the wrapper.
As you can see on the last one, the screen is a bit wonky but I think I can probably live with that. Also the scratch by the 510, but is hidden by the atomiser.
I haven't received my NI200 yet so haven't tried that, but it's working like a dream in Kanthal mode (so far, fingers crossed). I'm using new 25R's in it, picture taken just before swapping them out, and they are tight but fit ok, without damaging the wrapper.
We need a poll to see how many who use nickel have it work perfect. Problem with forums sometimes is you only hear from those with issues not those who are not. I would like to know if There is hope and it was only a small batch of bad boards.
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