RDA Veritas rda

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pi314

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Feb 15, 2015
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I got the clone and needed a peek nut to replace the nylon one. The prices were ridiulous everywhere I looked. Until I discovered solidspot

5x m2 peek nuts for $10 plus $1 shipping (although at checkout said there would be no postage costs but anyway) was unbeatable.

edit: doh nvm, I just noticed @Kingzkross posted the same half a page ago
 
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BNEAT

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I got the clone and needed a peek nut to replace the nylon one. The prices were ridiulous everywhere I looked. Until I discovered solidspot

5x m2 peek nuts for $10 plus $1 shipping (although at checkout said there would be no postage costs but anyway) was unbeatable.

edit: doh nvm, I just noticed @Kingzkross posted the same half a page ago

I'm glad you posted this again: it reminded me to place my order
 

Bronze

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Wow. It's been 6 weeks since I ordered my Veritas from fasttech. They said it would take a month to get to me. Not sure I'll buy from them again. I've started a Paypal dispute just in case it doesn't show up at all.

I learned the hard way too. There are numerous reasons why I do not buy from SlowTech. This is just one of them.
 

snow blind

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What is the difference between the Marquis and Veritas? My veritas should be here next week to start playing with.

I look at the Marquis as the evolution of the Veritas. It offers the same "basics" of the Veritas with many, many refinements like: super easy build, even smaller reduced chamber, dual air inlets for more AFC, multi-piece, insulated top cap/wide bore drip tip etc.

I had no need for my Veritas after my Marquis attys arrived. The flavor is also better and can be run at lower resistances or higher wattages with more airflow going into the chamber.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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What is the difference between the Marquis and Veritas? My veritas should be here next week to start playing with.

I look at the Marquis as the evolution of the Veritas. It offers the same "basics" of the Veritas with many, many refinements like: super easy build, even smaller reduced chamber, dual air inlets for more AFC, multi-piece, insulated top cap/wide bore drip tip etc.

I had no need for my Veritas after my Marquis attys arrived. The flavor is also better and can be run at lower resistances or higher wattages with more airflow going into the chamber.

It SHOULD have been the evolution of the Veritas but they forgot the most important detail, the leak resistance. Everything else about it is superior.

The whole veritas design relies on the airhole sitting on a ridge, giving a slope for the juice to flow away from the hole, on the marquis they decided to short it 1 minute of mill time and made the airhole faces flat, therefore its much more likely to leak.
 

TorontoOntario

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I simply love the Veritas, it is easily my favorite dripper. I think I will be very hard pressed to ever find something I personally like so much. I have been rocking it for about a month literally non stop. I always like to use a device for a while before passing judgment, I knew this was going to be my atty, it seemed built for me. I rock a single horizontal twisted 26 gauge .8 ohm coil wicked with Shiseido. I got it right in front of the air hole and the flavor is outstanding, I close it down about half way and drip through my trusty wide bore DT. Clouds have never been my priority but the Veritas puts out decently although there are attys that do a much better job if clouds are your thing but the flavor will be hard to match IMHO once you get it right. It took me three builds and on the fourth it all worked and I have been mesmerized ever since. I LOVE the Quasar, I get better flavor off it then my Magma (both authentic) and the Quasar provided me with the best flavor of all my drippers until I got my Veritas. I purchased three authentics from the vape shop I work PT at for a pretty good price IMO ($330 all in, $110 a pop.) I cant say enough good things about it, the nuts don't bother me at all personally and I am just smitten with this guy. The last dripper I was this excited about was my authentic Derringer and I was real excited about that guy.
 

pi314

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@alljokingaside, it seems it's a 2puffs aluminum + POM drip tip with adjustable air flow, you may pick the original or the cloned from *that* place. I'm ordering mine as wee speak ^_^

@DarthEmma, I'd suggest to get your peek nut pack to replace the nylon of that clone. Plus a set of SS m2 skrew and nuts. The lenght of the skrew is 27mm which is too rare but you should be fine if you pick a 25/30mm. The $8.49 version comes with copper center post

enjoy
 

DarthEmma

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pi314, I see I can get those from solid spot. Can you tell me exactly which nuts and screw to get? The url would be great.

I think this is the pack of nuts...
http://solidspot.com/shop/index.php...d=2474&zenid=dd9860eb8778a2e6d7a7d353856953bc

But, I'm not sure about the screw set you refer to. Is that for the center post (27mm looks right for that).

What about the 2 little screws for the negative connections?

Thanks for your help.
 

pi314

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yes those are the peek nuts you want. They don't sell stainless steel nuts and screws at solidspot. You'll have to look for another source. Obviously since you are getting m2 peek nut insulators you also need m2 nuts and center post screw.

Stainless steel should be a healthier option but it's not as conductive as brass. If you decide to go that way make sure you get a flat top screw to have as large contact area with your battery as possible. If you need standards DIN84 and DIN963 are good options. To get too technical, the heads of some DIN84 have a sharp edge while others are a bit bevelled. That shouldn't matter but I don't have any means to make such measurements :). Just in case prefer the ones with the sharp corner, if you have that option. DIN963 heads are countersunk and will have as much area as the sharp corner DIN84. But because they are countersunk you *may* have to add another o-ring (I doubt it, don't get overworked with it).

I ordered mine from ebay. There were available locally in some hardware shops but they didn't want to bother with my limited quantity needs and were rude .......s. You may have better luck

The little screws are also m2 and they are 3mm in length. I replaced those with SS as well. Conductivity doesn't matter here as you effectively press the wire against the body of the RDA. You could even go with titanium for those but that's overkill :2cool:
 
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TorontoOntario

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My Veritas finally arrived today... only 6 weeks after ordering. But i got it for only $8.49. :)

Nice man. You like it? Im trading off one of my authentic Veritas drippers (I had three due to a deal I got from the shop I work at and I kept one in the box not used) and an older authentic Tugboat for an unused Kayfun v4 still sealed and everything. The Kayfun 4 cost right around $250 after taxes in Canada and my friend who I am trading with has the recite stating that he paid 195$ even with his discount so I think its a good trade. My other two authentic Veritas will never leave me, I am really debating getting a third Flask or a Second Hana v4d to permanently run one while the other will always be on an authentic mech of some sorts. I just love the thing man, I have used a BUNCH of drippers from the old school to the new and everything in between and with my build I just incredible flavor along with a warm dense vape. I have been using one on my Hana V4D which usually runs an authentic Quasar/Hobo at 1ohm/30w and the vape it provides is unreal plus the battery life I get from two blue Sammys and a 1ohm/30w setup is outrageous.
 

neonballoon

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Built twisted 30g around 7/64 drill bit. 10 wraps came out to 1.1 ohms. Vaping nicely :)
image.jpg image (1).jpg
 

Tagi

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I'm having an issue with my clone, the insulator on the 510 pin keeps working itself out, anyone else have this problem?

I have had mine do this. On mine the positive pin was a little loos and re-tightening it resolve the issue. My Veritas rdas get a ton of use, I think slowly over time rebuilding it is just loosened little by little.
 

DarthEmma

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yes those are the peek nuts you want. They don't sell stainless steel nuts and screws at solidspot. You'll have to look for another source. Obviously since you are getting m2 peek nut insulators you also need m2 nuts and center post screw.

Stainless steel should be a healthier option but it's not as conductive as brass. If you decide to go that way make sure you get a flat top screw to have as large contact area with your battery as possible. If you need standards DIN84 and DIN963 are good options. To get too technical, the heads of some DIN84 have a sharp edge while others are a bit bevelled. That shouldn't matter but I don't have any means to make such measurements :). Just in case prefer the ones with the sharp corner, if you have that option. DIN963 heads are countersunk and will have as much area as the sharp corner DIN84. But because they are countersunk you *may* have to add another o-ring (I doubt it, don't get overworked with it).

I ordered mine from ebay. There were available locally in some hardware shops but they didn't want to bother with my limited quantity needs and were rude .......s. You may have better luck

The little screws are also m2 and they are 3mm in length. I replaced those with SS as well. Conductivity doesn't matter here as you effectively press the wire against the body of the RDA. You could even go with titanium for those but that's overkill :2cool:


Thanks for the info. My local ACE Hardware may have that stuff. They are great about letting me fish through the little bins to find what I need.
 
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