Yes, Feisty Alice has been known to talk to herself.
Just wanted to report, if I haven't already, that I took a slight amount off of door doing it very carefully with very fine grit sandpaper, placed on totally flat surface, doing two light swipes on each side (door edge surface must be in full contact with sandpaper and swipes very light), dust off, try out..... It is now perfect and DH has no issues with his crickety hands sliding door open. I did the final over a week ago. It has been inside our air conditioned house, several days road travel to DH's work, in air conditioned car, at work, of course, two visits to the lake, dining outside for three hours each visit, two airplane rides, out of town, in rental car, work place, hotel, in 100+F, on Texas/Mexico border and an hour from the Gulf of Mexico (some humidity but mostly very hot and then very cool in car and buildings) AND....................... the door has been PERFECT!!!!I did use Howard's Sun Shield, and then a waxing of the whole VVW outside and door all sides after the sanding. (Inside had already been done with Howard's Sun Shield or Feed and Wax) I used, for the first time, the Howard's Hard Paste Wax. It is very hard wax and made the door groove and door edges very slick. The Howard's Hard Paste Wax is the hardest wood wax I've ever used and I've been using hand rubbed hard waxes on various wood items for decades. It is so much harder because the Howard's Paste Wax contains less solvents than any other Paste Waxes I've ever used. Solvents are needed for Carnauba Wax as it is too hard to use without some solvents.
And a MAJOR BTW...... Those of us who use Paste Waxes on our REOs..... we usually leave a good amount of the wax on the REO (or other woods) and let it sit for a while before buffing. The Howard's Paste Wax is so hard that it takes a good amount of elbow grease to get the excess off unlike most other Paste Waxes I've used.
Also........ I've only used the Howard's clear Paste Wax on the Curly Oak. Due to the nature of the Curly Oak there are indentions in the surface that are characteristic of the Curly Oak. I was unable to get all of the excess wax out of the grain "grooves" using the very light weight, fine textured flannel I use for final polishing and buffing of waxed woods. Clear Wood Paste Wax has a natural color that is similar in color to natural bees wax, an ivory with yellow tone. For the light in color Curly Oak the remaining wax, in the grooves, is okay, but it would not be acceptable for darker woods that have "grooves" as the light colored wax would be such a contrast to the darker wood color.
Of all the Wood Paste Waxes I've used the Howard's is my favorite for a hard wax coating, harder than any others I've used and providing even greater protection to the surface of the wood and/or finish coat from scratches, bumps, scrapes, dings, etc., in the finish coating and the wood, than and other WOOD Paste Wax I've ever used. (I've used Paste Waxes on bare wood antique furniture that had to be stripped due to the condition of old finish or paint. I like to keep the original finish on antiques but sometimes it is in a condition that it has to be removed.)
Therefore I'm ordering some more Howard's Paste Wax in a slightly darker color and another in an even darker color for our darker colored WOOD REOs (and furniture) that have wood grain that does have "grooves." Some do and some don't. I will use the clear on those woods that have very closed and/or fine graining.
Hugs and all that, Feisty Alice
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I think you will come out of sale night just fine with the VVG you want I don't doubt there will be some server issues but stick with it and you shall be victorious 
