Im always late to the party. Rob when you do VV Grands. I want a Blue/Blue!!!! Ill sell my mom for one!! LOL!! j/k.......
No waiting lists, Fifi! Just subscribe to the following thread and check it every so often. Rob will let us know ahead of time when they'll be available for sale from his website. Wood mods that use the 18490 battery are currently in production. The VV Reos will come some time after those become available.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...dates-sales-information-most-recent-info.html
Thanks a lot Mudflap. I am a "newbee" on this forum (and i am french... nobody is perfect) I find my holy "graal" with Reosmods. so, I subscribe this forum like you tell me. Have a nice day.
Well, I've picked up some additional side work to help out a coworker who's wife had surgery recently. After he pays me, I'll have sufficient funds set aside for a Woodvil VV Reo and some 16340 batteries. With luck, I'll be able to save up some more dough towards a metal VV Reo.
To quote MX, standing buy.![]()
Speaking of 16340 batteries...what the story on these? Please tell me they last way longer than 14500s.
Hi all the VV Reos will use the same controller as the Buzz Pro so the specs will be the same , we did a slight redesign of the format to fit in Robs design but the function and specs will be the same . here is a basic run down.
Specs:
15 watts maximum power output
Wheel adjustable voltage dial
Improved battery life 2 x 's avg. , we have a new controller that is MUCH more efficeint. avg. 12 hrs per charge
batteries (16340 type)
3-3 to 5.5 volt adjustment
Reverse battery protection
Over current protection
Over temp. protection
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Keep in mind it's the combined mAh from two 16340's with the voltage output being what you set it. Here's what Mike had to say earlier in the thread:
I'm hoping Mike or Rob will clarify whether protected Li-ion or IMR batteries are the better choice for VV Reos. I would think protected Li-ions, but I'll defer to the experts.
Rob said that he was going with Mike's recommendation, and it will probably be protected.
The "issue" with protected batteries is their low discharge ratings. For example;
AW IMR 16340 max discharge rating is 4A's
AW ICR 16340 "Protected" max discharge rating is 1.5A's
AW RCR123 Lifepo4 max discharge rating is 5.2A's
Tenergy Lifepo4's max discharge rating is 550mA's
Since ohms law states "I" (current or amperage) is determined by "V"(voltage)/"R"(resistance); lets say for grins that your using 2x 4.2v's (freshly charged 3.7v batts) and a 1.5Ω atty... (in series the voltage is doubled so you get) 8.4v/1.5Ω = 5.6A's of current being drawn from your batteries. Now, I know nothing about the regulator Mike is using for the internals, BUT even at the max output voltage of 5.5V's divided by 1.5Ω's = 3.666A's of current being drawn from the batteries. (Either way your stressing, or over-stressing the hell out of the batteries.) This also makes the AW IMR 16340 or AW RCR123 Lifepo's the only batteries that are rated for the current required to run this setup without over-stressing the batteries. I personally will NOT use the so called protected batteries in mine. Either AW IMR or Lifepo's are a far safer choice imho...
If Mike, Matt, or any other electronics gurus have any any other opinions and/or could explain why the protected batteries would be a better option I'd love to know the details. Its been a few years since I had to use my electronics schooling for figurring current draws.So, if I'm incorrect...please enlighten me.
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...and once its all hashed out then let me know.![]()
So that he can immediately act on Unsure's Law of Mods...![]()
The "issue" with protected batteries is their low discharge ratings. For example;
AW IMR 16340 max discharge rating is 4A's
AW ICR 16340 "Protected" max discharge rating is 1.5A's
AW RCR123 Lifepo4 max discharge rating is 5.2A's
Tenergy Lifepo4's max discharge rating is 550mA's
Since ohms law states "I" (current or amperage) is determined by "V"(voltage)/"R"(resistance); lets say for grins that your using 2x 4.2v's (freshly charged 3.7v batts) and a 1.5Ω atty... (in series the voltage is doubled so you get) 8.4v/1.5Ω = 5.6A's of current being drawn from your batteries. Now, I know nothing about the regulator Mike is using for the internals, BUT even at the max output voltage of 5.5V's divided by 1.5Ω's = 3.666A's of current being drawn from the batteries. (Either way your stressing, or over-stressing the hell out of the batteries.) This also makes the AW IMR 16340 or AW RCR123 Lifepo's the only batteries that are rated for the current required to run this setup without over-stressing the batteries. I personally will NOT use the so called protected batteries in mine. Either AW IMR or Lifepo's are a far safer choice imho...
If Mike, Matt, or any other electronics gurus have any any other opinions and/or could explain why the protected batteries would be a better option I'd love to know the details. Its been a few years since I had to use my electronics schooling for figurring current draws.So, if I'm incorrect...please enlighten me.
![]()
The "issue" with protected batteries is their low discharge ratings. For example;
AW IMR 16340 max discharge rating is 4A's
AW ICR 16340 "Protected" max discharge rating is 1.5A's
AW RCR123 Lifepo4 max discharge rating is 5.2A's
Tenergy Lifepo4's max discharge rating is 550mA's
Since ohms law states "I" (current or amperage) is determined by "V"(voltage)/"R"(resistance); lets say for grins that your using 2x 4.2v's (freshly charged 3.7v batts) and a 1.5Ω atty... (in series the voltage is doubled so you get) 8.4v/1.5Ω = 5.6A's of current being drawn from your batteries. Now, I know nothing about the regulator Mike is using for the internals, BUT even at the max output voltage of 5.5V's divided by 1.5Ω's = 3.666A's of current being drawn from the batteries. (Either way your stressing, or over-stressing the hell out of the batteries.) This also makes the AW IMR 16340 or AW RCR123 Lifepo's the only batteries that are rated for the current required to run this setup without over-stressing the batteries. I personally will NOT use the so called protected batteries in mine. Either AW IMR or Lifepo's are a far safer choice imho...
If Mike, Matt, or any other electronics gurus have any any other opinions and/or could explain why the protected batteries would be a better option I'd love to know the details. Its been a few years since I had to use my electronics schooling for figurring current draws.So, if I'm incorrect...please enlighten me.
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All batts have different max current draws , the protected ones vary all over the place as well , we us a Ultrafire 880 mah battery for our cheaper ones and a Powerizer 650 Mah for our better ones ! ( unprotected version ) as you can see the UF is rated at 880 MAh but is really about 400 Mah the Powerizer IS 650 Mah so DO NOT believe what is on the lable.
THe p[owerizer is rated at 2.5 C discharge rate so it is 1.625 amps HOWEVER a PWM based controller in BUCK mode converts voltage into Current so it is NOT like a linear reg,. that is 1- 1 , the controller we have works with 1.5 ohm cartos up to 4.7 volts , is you try to draw more current it will throttle back to protect itself.
So it is not as straight forward as you might think.
Hey Buzz-Mike, just tell me what batteries to buy.![]()