VV Reos

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Technonut

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I'm going to stick with IMR batteries. ;) They are the safest choice in a stacked configuration. Here is what Cisco posted on another forum regarding this:

It is true that a decent Li-ion (in the larger sizes) will output enough current to run any e-cig properly. IMR's will output more consistent current across the discharge cycle, Li-ion tend to drop off faster then IMR's, the reason the first 10-20% of the discharge cycle on a Li-ion is hotter then the remainder. If your boosting and or regulating you wont notice a drop off in output, so with an IMR you will sacrifice vape time over a Li-ion, for that configuration Li-ion will serve you best.

Personally I prefer IMR's because of the safety factor that Li-ion do not have, I am willing to sacrifice vape time for added safety and consistent unregulated current output. IMR's are a safer chemistry in the fact that if they vent, they only vent with gas not with gas/flames, IMR's do not require protection circuits and are designed to be the safer alternative in stacked battery configurations similar to LifePo4 ( true LifePo4 Chemistry is 3.2v nominal, LifePo4 do not come in 3.7v, it is a chemistry limitation. If you see a LifePo4 advertised as a 3.7v cell, its more then likely LiPo chemistry)
 

Mudflap

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About the IMRs stacked in a VV PV, Techno...

Let's say you set your PV at 4.25 volts and leave it there. 4.25 volts / 2 batteries = 2.125 volts/battery

Now I realize both batteries won't discharge perfectly even with each other, but won't IMR batteries continue to discharge lower than what is recommended before the PV stops firing?

There may be something to it that I'm missing, so I'm asking.
 

Technonut

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About the IMRs stacked in a VV PV, Techno...

Let's say you set your PV at 4.25 volts and leave it there. 4.25 volts / 2 batteries = 2.125 volts/battery

Now I realize both batteries won't discharge perfectly even with each other, but won't IMR batteries continue to discharge lower than what is recommended before the PV stops firing?

There may be something to it that I'm missing, so I'm asking.


It's no different than running the IMR 14500 and 18650 batteries... Care must be taken in over / under discharge with those cells also. The issue with protected circuit batteries is that circuits fail. I would much rather use safe chemistry batteries which need attention paid to in stacking, and swap-out voltage, than batteries which may belch flames and a possible fireball explosion. :evil:

Not to mention most RCR123A protected batteries totally are lacking in their amp discharge ratings.
 

Mudflap

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It's no different than running the IMR 14500 and 18650 batteries... Care must be taken in over / under discharge with those cells also. *snip*

I totally agree. I always swap these out at 3.8 to 3.9 volts because the quality of my vape tells me I want a fresh battery.

My concern is that IMR batteries stacked in a VV PV won't tell me when they're approaching 3.5 volts and need to be recharged.

I need a PV that is smarter than me. (that's really not much of a stretch. :lol:)
 

sashwa

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For what's it worth, I've been using the powerize in my BP and I can a full day of vaping off of them for about 4 to 6 ml. I also have found that the wf-138 charges them better than the Pila for some reason - I think it's because you have to use 2 spacers in each slot for charging on the Pila.

If I get a Reo vv then I will use the batts that Robert recommends.
 

unsure

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Just got a pic of the block I'll be using for the VV. Sizzling red...

740.JPG
 

BuzzKill

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I totally agree. I always swap these out at 3.8 to 3.9 volts because the quality of my vape tells me I want a fresh battery.

My concern is that IMR batteries stacked in a VV PV won't tell me when they're approaching 3.5 volts and need to be recharged.

I need a PV that is smarter than me. (that's really not much of a stretch. :lol:)

regulated device like what Rob is making will always try to maintain the set point voltage UNTIL the batts go below a certain voltage then it will cut out ( you get about 4-8 hits that drop off then it dies )
the controller is protected many ways , Over Current , Voltage , temp , reverse battery etc. so it will try to save itself and YOU in the process.
you cna short the output and it will go into an IDLE mode and not hurt the batts.

BTW If you guys aver need answers just PM me and I will pop in to answer them.
 
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