Well, my mechanical mod went BOOM.

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Confuzzled1969

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Doesn't matter if it was a fake battery or not, doesn't matter if it was a .2 or 3.5ohm build...

If you put a mech mod into auto-fire and leave it eventually the battery will be overtaxed and run away, period.

Not true, if you stay within the batteries operating limits, you just kill the battery and possibly your atty. A battery has a max discharge rate, that rating is not based on a continuous discharge, it is based on an average discharge... So if you have a ten amp battery and run it at ten amps, you will be exceeding the duty cyle and it could vent...

Although, typically a bettery that vents does so as the result of improper charging....
 

Bigflyrodder

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Yeah, because denial and snark is soooo much more fun.



He's right...more or less. I mean, cheap knock-off batteries exist and people buy them, unknowingly.
Also, if you get an auto-fire or worse, an internal dead short, all batteries will vent something.

I do find it ...quite amazing... that if it really was a high quality IMR, that it vented that quickly and violently that the mech mod with vent holes actually blew chunks.

My :2c: is still the same...mod makers should test with Li-Ion chem at a dead-short. It should not blow up. Maybe wishful thinking on my part, but still...

I agree entirely, the venting is another issue all together.
 

VaPreis

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An authentic VTC5 would have no problems itself continuously firing a 0.2Ω build. The Stingray has a floating pin, not a spring. And even if it did, I think it's stretch to say the positive pin some how magically shorted to the negative side of the battery.

I'd say one of two things happened:

The mod was left unlocked, auto fired in his pocket until the atomizer's insulators were destroyed causing a dead short

Or

The switch came apart because of a loose switch contact, causing an autofire, destroying the atomizer's insulators to the point of a dead short.

Either way, operator negligence.
 

Bigflyrodder

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Not true, if you stay within the batteries operating limits, you just kill the battery and possibly your atty. A battery has a max discharge rate, that rating is not based on a continuous discharge, it is based on an average discharge... So if you have a ten amp battery and run it at ten amps, you will be exceeding the duty cyle and it could vent...

Although, typically a bettery that vents does so as the result of improper charging....

Makes sound theoretical sense but there is more at work here than just continuous discharge. If heat weren't a factor and didn't come into play I would agree.
 

Robino1

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An authentic VTC5 would have no problems itself continuously firing a 0.2Ω build. The Stingray has a floating pin, not a spring. And even if it did, I think it's stretch to say the positive pin some how magically shorted to the negative side of the battery.

I'd say one of two things happened:

The mod was left unlocked, auto fired in his pocket until the atomizer's insulators were destroyed causing a dead short

Or

The switch came apart because of a loose switch contact, causing an autofire, destroying the atomizer's insulators to the point of a dead short.

Either way, operator negligence.

So basically, an accident happened and no one, luckily, got hurt. :)
 
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AttyPops

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Not true, if you stay within the batteries operating limits, you just kill the battery and possibly your atty. A battery has a max discharge rate, that rating is not based on a continuous discharge, it is based on an average discharge... So if you have a ten amp battery and run it at ten amps, you will be exceeding the duty cyle and it could vent...

Although, typically a bettery that vents does so as the result of improper charging....

True...mostly. Not arguing. I point out though, we're also talking about a catastrophic failure possibility...aka...dead short. So there's no "run it within limits".

That's the thing, dead shorts can happen. It's even easier when A) The whole enclosure is a ground and B) the only thing separating the positive pin from ground is a few mm of insulator. Sure, it all depends on design too. And good battery wrap. And button not pushed....

But if you get the button pushed OR you get a shorted wrapping...AND you have stress on the topper with a bad insulator. That's bad.

Just an example.
 

Jjshbetz11

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Its not about a bigger cloud... Its about the majority NOT sending batteries into thermal runaway because of knowledge! Sorry if I came off in a bad way in my posts but come on ... Some responsibility has to fall on the operator. I can imagine any experienced mech user even better if ya know the stringray platform, will admit a vented battery in one is hard pressed to literally blow up based on ample venting. So that right there raises a question. Screw it I'm done with this conversation
 

Jjshbetz11

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I wasn't addressing you in specific, Jjshbetz11. I was speaking as an entire whole as a community. Sorry if my reply upset you.

Na its not you its the types saying mechs are bad and basically crying for regulations then when it happens saying why do we only have cig a likes any more.
 

drunkenbatman

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If you know the Stingray X or even the original Stingray then you understand my point that it should be impossible for it to explode. I don't mean "vent", I mean BOOM as the OP describes. You shouldn't be able to make one explode on purpose...

Manufacturing defects are also a concern. There are stories of people picking up mechs from decent sellers (including suppliers on this site) and when they checked the end cap realized the vent notches weren't cut, or if designed for top-venting it was blocked, and had to get a new one sent.

If they hadn't checked for those little notches, well... and those types of things aren't limited to one model or brand or vendor.
 

Jjshbetz11

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Manufacturing defects are also a concern. There are stories of people picking up mechs from decent sellers (including suppliers on this site) and when they checked the end cap realized the vent notches weren't cut, or if designed for top-venting it was blocked, and had to get a new one sent.

If they hadn't checked for those little notches, well... and those types of things aren't limited to one model or brand or vendor.

And how did they know to look for proper venting? Experience and knowledge from studying up and such.
 

BlkWolfMidnight

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I'm spending a lot of money putting in my 2 cents worth here,

Thermal run away is a lot different then a dead short

Thermal runaway refers to a situation where an increase in temperature changes the conditions in a way that causes a further increase in temperature, often leading to a destructive result. It is a kind of uncontrolled positive feedback.
Full Definition of DEAD SHORT CIRCUIT. : an electrical short circuit of great magnitude arising from large firm contact.

So, there you have it, again as I mentioned previously testing outside of a mod will not yield the same results as inside a mod.

With that being said, mechanical mods are nothing to be afraid of in any way as long as CARE IS TAKEN to maintain them and check that you've properly locked it down when transporting the device. As for battery care and maintenance this is something you should be doing no matter mechanical or regulated. I can understand the lack of knowledge of B&M shops, in part it is your responsibility to know the equipment that you are getting (note I didn't not say "Fully your responsibility" ). You'll find that those that are slightly critical are looking out for the safety of the vapor as well as others around them, this is in part because any one of us could be next to that person possibly. It also attracts media attention and the last thing we need is more of that at this time. There is no "Professional Vapor" so might as well throw that out there, these aren't "Exclusive mods" either for a special group of folks as anyone can use a mechanical mod at pretty much any experience level without difficulty. There are a lot of unknown variables that the OP did not post so a lot are going off assumptions here. In truth yes a battery can vent on anyone if improperly used, is faulty or defective, in the RC car industry we know this to be true all to well and they use them daily and still have issues from time to time ( I used to race local tracks for competitive reasons, most of those guys have a very good understanding of batteries and they still have critical failures every now and then).

The batteries that we use today are designed for the high continuous amp draw however a lot of batteries are floating around that were not ment to be used like that, just be mindful that they exist and check for yourself when in doubt. I agree with one post that VV/VW devices are coming out now that are safer just by the nature of them and will power pretty much anything you want to put on them, those that belly ache about the ohm limits on them likely are building well below the safety limit anyways and will likely never use them. All it takes is an ounce of prevention and safety to reduce or eliminate the possibility of battery failure, and in truth it is the USERS responsibility to ensure that this is done. I don't expect to blame the makers of the kitchen knife if I cut myself due to not paying attention when using it, I wouldn't expect to do the same if a battery fails in a mechanical mod either. Just food for thought.
 

TruSound

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I take extreme care of all my mods switches, regular cleaning, frequent contact tightness checks etc. etc., all my mods are authentic and considered pretty good quality...here's an example of why I have to disagree with above statement that mech mods are nothing to be afraid of, my MCR101 auto fired 3 times in the locked position the day I received it, it was purchased new, directly from MCR, the switches insulator was the smallest fraction to thin, under it's own weight standing up in the locked position it would fire, so the notion that mech mods are nothing to be afraid of just doesn't fly, it could have been quite a problem if this mod was left alone in the wrong place.
 
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