What funny tasting cartos look like!
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I know everyone is awaiting to hear from leaford... I have sent him multiple emails... however he is in china...and he has been really busy getting the lastest order finished and shipped... I am sure he will be discussing this indepth with all of you as soon as he sees it....
i reach him on skype...and he has not been on !!! he and i vape these cartos as well... so we take this just as seriously.... I assure you as soon as he sees this he will post here
Please see my post on Rift's autopsy thread. I cut off that adhesive or whatever junk, and it's definitely the problem. I'm vaping on a passthru with ZERO problems!
just wanted to post my most recent discoveries / thoughts
weird thing happened to me over that past few days .... ~ Ive been using V4l for over a year now ... someone turned me onto bloog and I'm in love .... I bought 2 batteries and some cartos ... Sold off most of my vaporware (Kept two batteries just in case ...lol).... I did notice a burnt tast when i Used My V4l batteries w/ bloog carts. Other than that, I didnt have any problems.
I will say that most of the bloog carts I got ran dry very quickly. I chalked that up to the amount of vapor produced and figured it was a small price to pay for a good drag.
I had been refilling with V4l juice which is 100% PG.
I fell In love with Bloogs RY4 so I got a 25 pack in my next order. I had previously posted in this thread that I had not experienced any bad cartos or any burnt taste at all.
This last batch of RY4 carts I got started to discourage me a bit .... I counted drags after the 4th "dud" carto ..... got 30 drags out of it before it was empty. I started having problems with a burnt taste I would refill.... get one or two draws out of It and WHAMO! Burnt taste .... yuk. At this point I want to let it be known that I received this batch of carts the day after I received some juice from BWB for the first time. my first ever experiernce with PG/VG blends.
Well guess what? lol When I decided to put my new juices down to let them steep (I used them for 2 days ... still not bad being so fresh), I went back to my 100% PG juices .... My burnt taste problem disappeared also.
So now Im wondering if all along everyone who is experiencing this prob.... If its just a wicking problem.
And the whole melting thing ..... If you detect any off taste .... stop! Refill! you cant hold anyone else accountable if you insist on vaping dry cartos. For example .... Take a wick on an oil lamp .... If it is soaked in oil ... sitting in a pool of oil It will burn for weeks ... months! now take that same wick and burn it when its dry? Gone in a few minutes .... fireball! simple physics right?
So If anyone has a solution to the VG problem let me know. I really liked the 3 I tried from BWB, so Id hate to just toss em ...... read something About cutting them with distilled water? or grain alcohol?
Any Info would be appreciated.
sry .... posted this before I read rifts post concerning the carto autopsy .... please disregard ...lol.
weird thing happened to me over that past few days .... ~ Ive been using V4l for over a year now ... someone turned me onto bloog and I'm in love .... I bought 2 batteries and some cartos ... Sold off most of my vaporware (Kept two batteries just in case ...lol).... I did notice a burnt tast when i Used My V4l batteries w/ bloog carts. Other than that, I didnt have any problems.
I will say that most of the bloog carts I got ran dry very quickly. I chalked that up to the amount of vapor produced and figured it was a small price to pay for a good drag.
I had been refilling with V4l juice which is 100% PG. I fell In love with Bloogs RY4 so I got a 25 pack in my next order. I had previously posted in this thread that I had not experienced any bad cartos or any burnt taste at all.
This last batch of RY4 carts I got started to discourage me a bit .... I counted drags after the 4th "dud" carto ..... got 30 drags out of it before it was empty. I started having problems with a burnt taste I would refill.... get one or two draws out of It and WHAMO! Burnt taste .... yuk. At this point I want to let it be known that I received this batch of carts the day after I received some juice from BWB for the first time. my first ever experiernce with PG/VG blends.
Well guess what? lol When I decided to put my new juices down to let them steep (I used them for 2 days ... still not bad being so fresh), I went back to my 100% PG juices .... My burnt taste problem disappeared also.
So now Im wondering if all along everyone who is experiencing this prob.... If its just a wicking problem.
And the whole melting thing ..... If you detect any off taste .... stop! Refill! you cant hold anyone else accountable if you insist on vaping dry cartos. For example .... Take a wick on an oil lamp .... If it is soaked in oil ... sitting in a pool of oil It will burn for weeks ... months! now take that same wick and burn it when its dry? Gone in a few minutes .... fireball! simple physics right?
So If anyone has a solution to the VG problem let me know. I really liked the 3 I tried from BWB, so Id hate to just toss em ...... read something About cutting them with distilled water? or grain alcohol?
Any Info would be appreciated.
sry .... posted this before I read rifts post concerning the carto autopsy .... please disregard ...lol.
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How do you go about cutting off the adhesive without detaching the wick and ruining the carto? I don't know how to re-attach the coil/wick if I pull it off!
I think with the VG there is a wicking problem. I would try putting a drop of liquid into the battery end of the carto and see what happens.
I appreciate that you added the edit, but I hope you will please consider removing the paragraph that erroneously casts blame on the consumer for a demonstrated manufacturing defect.
If you are skilled with tweezers, and patient, you won't wreck the carto. I take no responsibility for the following instructions that are provided for educational purposes only.
Battery side:
Use a flathead to pop out the metal pin. Just lift up on it. Use tweezers to pull out the silicone sleeve that was around the pin. Don't tug on the wire in the hole. It may take a little effort if you've got too much adhesive. Use an exacto knife, tweezers, etc to remove all the white adhesive from the silicon.
Mouth side:
Grasp the center tube with tweezers and pull it out. You might have to gently rock it in a circle for it to break free. The other end will be split with a small wick and coil in the split with two wires sticking straight up. At this point, either you will have a fat white ring of adhesive like mine, or virtually nothing like Rift. Lift the wick out with tweezers and set it aside. Avoid bending the leads.
At this point you can choose to unwrap the tube and rinse it out or just grasp it with a kleenex. If you rinse it and dry it, you'll find it a bit more challenging to reassemble. I recommend leaving it wet. Pull up on the tube with your tweezers to expose a gap between the ring of adhesive and the wrappings. Use scissors or an exacto knife and make a clean straight cut. Use the tweezers, or a flathead in the slit, to push the tube back down, but not quite flush.
Using tweezers, gently replace the wick into the slit with both wires pointing straight up. Make sure the wick is flush with the wrappings. Now for the semi-tricky part. Slowly slide everything back up in the case. Carefully watch the battery hole to make sure both wires are going to make it through. Use a needle to gently guide them if necessary. If they bend, pull everything out, try to straighten the wire and try again.
Now use an object to apply slight upward pressure on the wrappings. I use the flat end a jeweler's screwdriver, but a pencil would probably work. Look down the battery end hole. Using a needle or toothpick, gently spread the slit open a bit so the ends of the tube are generally not visible from the battery hole. The upwards pressure is to make sure the tube and wrappings are flush against the battery end. If necessary, very gently center the wick, and make sure it's still in full contact with the wrapping. Don't bend the wires, and don't knock the wick loose.
Carefully replace the silicon sleeve. One wire needs to come up through the hole, and the other wire will be sandwiched between the shell and the sleeve. It's very important that the wires do not cross or the carto won't work. Try to make sure the sandwiched wire is on the same side of the shell as its end of the wick. It doesn't have to be perfect. At this point, you might need to very gently recenter the wick again.
The remaining wire will be sandwiched between the silicone sleeve and the pin. Again, try to make sure the wire is on the same side of the shell as its end of the wick. Slowly press the pin down. Make sure the wire did not go into the air hole, else pull it out and try again.
If you have a voltmeter, check the ohms to make sure it's ~2.5, otherwise just be careful. Fill it up as normal, taryn spin it, let it sit, whatever floats your boat. Put it on a battery and gently blow through the battery end while cupping your hand at the mouth piece. Waft the vapor to make sure it's not rancid. If it is, give it a chance with a few puffs. If the wafts aren't rancid, puff it like a cigar just in case it is still acidic.
At this point, hopefully your carto tastes better than it ever did!
As far as I know ... I didnt cast blame on anybody ..... Just recounting My own experiences.
I'll admit I'm still a bit touchy about generally being discredited, so I take mild offense with associating the melting adhesive problem with burning cartos dry. My cartos were never allowed to go dry, and were often topped off before there was even a dry taste. It's that not what you meant, I'm sorry for saying anything.
I don't think I'm that technically inclined to even try this! I'll wait and hope that they get the problem corrected - I still have a few that do not have the burnt taste. Thanks though for very detailed instructions!
If you are skilled with tweezers, and patient, you won't wreck the carto. I take no responsibility for the following instructions that are provided for educational purposes only.
Battery side:
Use a flathead to pop out the metal pin. Just lift up on it. Use tweezers to pull out the silicone sleeve that was around the pin. Don't tug on the wire in the hole. It may take a little effort if you've got too much adhesive. Use an exacto knife, tweezers, etc to remove all the white adhesive from the silicon.
Mouth side:
Grasp the center tube with tweezers and pull it out. You might have to gently rock it in a circle for it to break free. The other end will be split with a small wick and coil in the split with two wires sticking straight up. At this point, either you will have a fat white ring of adhesive like mine, or virtually nothing like Rift. Lift the wick out with tweezers and set it aside. Avoid bending the leads.
At this point you can choose to unwrap the tube and rinse it out or just grasp it with a kleenex. If you rinse it and dry it, you'll find it a bit more challenging to reassemble. I recommend leaving it wet. Pull up on the tube with your tweezers to expose a gap between the ring of adhesive and the wrappings. Use scissors or an exacto knife and make a clean straight cut. Use the tweezers, or a flathead in the slit, to push the tube back down, but not quite flush.
Using tweezers, gently replace the wick into the slit with both wires pointing straight up. Make sure the wick is flush with the wrappings. Now for the semi-tricky part. Slowly slide everything back up in the case. Carefully watch the battery hole to make sure both wires are going to make it through. Use a needle to gently guide them if necessary. If they bend, pull everything out, try to straighten the wire and try again.
Now use an object to apply slight upward pressure on the wrappings. I use the flat end a jeweler's screwdriver, but a pencil would probably work. Look down the battery end hole. Using a needle or toothpick, gently spread the slit open a bit so the ends of the tube are generally not visible from the battery hole. The upwards pressure is to make sure the tube and wrappings are flush against the battery end. If necessary, very gently center the wick, and make sure it's still in full contact with the wrapping. Don't bend the wires, and don't knock the wick loose.
Carefully replace the silicon sleeve. One wire needs to come up through the hole, and the other wire will be sandwiched between the shell and the sleeve. It's very important that the wires do not cross or the carto won't work. Try to make sure the sandwiched wire is on the same side of the shell as its end of the wick. It doesn't have to be perfect. At this point, you might need to very gently recenter the wick again.
The remaining wire will be sandwiched between the silicone sleeve and the pin. Again, try to make sure the wire is on the same side of the shell as its end of the wick. Slowly press the pin down. Make sure the wire did not go into the air hole, else pull it out and try again.
If you have a voltmeter, check the ohms to make sure it's ~2.5, otherwise just be careful. Fill it up as normal, taryn spin it, let it sit, whatever floats your boat. Put it on a battery and gently blow through the battery end while cupping your hand at the mouth piece. Waft the vapor to make sure it's not rancid. If it is, give it a chance with a few puffs. If the wafts aren't rancid, puff it like a cigar just in case it is still acidic.
At this point, hopefully your carto tastes better than it ever did!
Hi guys,
I am very sorry for the late response. My crappy tablet computer crashed over the weekend. I'm buying a used mac from a friend tomorrow to get myself back in the game, I'm borrowing it to make this post.
I am trying to skim this thread at least, and the other one too, but I'm only half way through. And I have already shared your pics with our engineer.
None of the parts shown are plastic or melted. The "melted" looking part is actually a silicon adhesive used to attach the fibrous airtube to the threaded metal base. The "plastic" ring at the bottom is also silicon, and sometimes it gets stuck in the silicon before it dries. If you take apart an empty, unused carto it will look exactly the same.
Both the ring and the adhesive are high temperature silicons which do not outgass or melt under heat. They are not burn proof in flame, but they don't melt or deform as they burn. I've tested that. I am waiting on specific material names and MSDS sheets in english.
As far as a suspect in causing the burnt taste, I doubt it. But we will be dissecting all cartos as we test, so I'll make sure we look for any burning or discoloration on the silicon parts as well.
Cryx, thanks for bringing this up, and please continue to point out anything else you find. It would be nice if we could point
I am very sorry for the late response. My crappy tablet computer crashed over the weekend. I'm buying a used mac from a friend tomorrow to get myself back in the game, I'm borrowing it to make this post.
I am trying to skim this thread at least, and the other one too, but I'm only half way through. And I have already shared your pics with our engineer.
None of the parts shown are plastic or melted. The "melted" looking part is actually a silicon adhesive used to attach the fibrous airtube to the threaded metal base. The "plastic" ring at the bottom is also silicon, and sometimes it gets stuck in the silicon before it dries. If you take apart an empty, unused carto it will look exactly the same.
Both the ring and the adhesive are high temperature silicons which do not outgass or melt under heat. They are not burn proof in flame, but they don't melt or deform as they burn. I've tested that. I am waiting on specific material names and MSDS sheets in english.
As far as a suspect in causing the burnt taste, I doubt it. But we will be dissecting all cartos as we test, so I'll make sure we look for any burning or discoloration on the silicon parts as well.
Cryx, thanks for bringing this up, and please continue to point out anything else you find. It would be nice if we could point
Hi guys,
I am very sorry for the late response. My crappy tablet computer crashed Friday night and I had to take it down town and leave it for warranty repair. I'm buying a used mac from a friend tomorrow to get myself back in the game, I'm borrowing it now to make this post.
I am trying to skim this thread at least, and the other one too, but I'm only half way through. And I have already shared your pics with our engineer, on Friday before it crashed, and have some of the answers.
None of the parts shown are plastic or melted. The "melted" looking part is actually a silicon adhesive used to attach the fibrous airtube to the threaded metal base. The "plastic" ring at the bottom is also silicon, and sometimes it gets stuck in the silicon before it dries. If you take apart an empty, unused carto it will look exactly the same.
Both the ring and the adhesive are high temperature silicons which do not outgass or melt under heat. They are not burn proof in flame, but they don't melt or deform as they burn. I've tested that. I am waiting on specific material names and MSDS sheets in english.
As far as a suspect in causing the burnt taste, I doubt it. But we will be dissecting all cartos as we test, which is part of what I've been working on lately, so I'll make sure we look for any burning or discoloration on the silicon parts as well.
Cryx, thanks for bringing this up, and please continue to point out anything else you find. It would be nice if we could find one magic bullet that solves everything. But I'm afraid this wasn't it.
I am very sorry for the late response. My crappy tablet computer crashed Friday night and I had to take it down town and leave it for warranty repair. I'm buying a used mac from a friend tomorrow to get myself back in the game, I'm borrowing it now to make this post.
I am trying to skim this thread at least, and the other one too, but I'm only half way through. And I have already shared your pics with our engineer, on Friday before it crashed, and have some of the answers.
None of the parts shown are plastic or melted. The "melted" looking part is actually a silicon adhesive used to attach the fibrous airtube to the threaded metal base. The "plastic" ring at the bottom is also silicon, and sometimes it gets stuck in the silicon before it dries. If you take apart an empty, unused carto it will look exactly the same.
Both the ring and the adhesive are high temperature silicons which do not outgass or melt under heat. They are not burn proof in flame, but they don't melt or deform as they burn. I've tested that. I am waiting on specific material names and MSDS sheets in english.
As far as a suspect in causing the burnt taste, I doubt it. But we will be dissecting all cartos as we test, which is part of what I've been working on lately, so I'll make sure we look for any burning or discoloration on the silicon parts as well.
Cryx, thanks for bringing this up, and please continue to point out anything else you find. It would be nice if we could find one magic bullet that solves everything. But I'm afraid this wasn't it.
Do you have insight into the vastly different manufacturer flaws regarding this silicone adhesive? I have a thick ring of adhesive, but Rift has a dap. Others have reported no thick ring of adhesive, but there is a pic of a 1st batch carto with burnt taste that has the same thick ring of adhesive as mine.
Silicone is inherently very gas permeable, so can you elaborate on how/why this adhesive does not outgas?
Correct, silicone doesn't melt, but the ring of adhesive on two of mine very clearly bubbled and melted before bursting into flame. I wish I made a video so people would believe me. I think you may want to explore the possibility of multiple adhesives being used.
Will all due respect, I think you are making a huge mistake to write off the adhesive as an issue. I'd be curious for your explanation of why cutting the adhesive out of two cartos (that tasted off from the start but went foul after a week) would make them absolutely perfect? Before the surgery, a fully charged battery @ 4.2V was very harsh, but now I can vape them on a 5V passthru and experience delusions of being Puff the Magic Dragon. How is that possible?
I ordered 10 cartos. 2 were acidic and unusable out of the pack. The other 8 slowly went bad in a week. That's a very disappointing waste of money. Unfortunately I only managed to "fix" 2 of those 8, because my wife helped them find a new home at the landfill. Now we fight over the two I fixed.
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