Which Coils do I need.....help please.
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@untar – I fully understand that Johnny will only eat 2 apples if that is all he wants despite there may be many more in front of him. AND, just for the record I am not against using a 2 amp charger providing your device is able to handle that.
In this discussion we are questioning the reliability of the regulated charging circuit within a modern mod. So if this is on the table for scrutiny, would it be safer to send 2 amps to the device in hope that it regulates it properly, or send 0.5 amps to the device in hopes that it regulates it properly? And what if the device does not specify what it is able to handle? Should we just guess or use the safest option. I cannot find the charging specs of the Smok X8 that blew up in the video @Baditude posted. I will fault Smok for that but to me the safest option would be to use the USB 2 spec of 0.5 amps. Will admit we do not know what was used here, or if over charging was even the issue. But device failures from over charging happen, and not just with vape devices.
Apple iPhone charger = 5v 1amp
Apple iPad charger = 5.1v 5.1amps
Common Samsung charger = 5v 2amps
Latest Samsung quick charger (to be used with specific phones) 5v 5.8 amps
Computer USB = 5v 0.5amps.
All the above charging options all have a USB 2 connection that temps users to charge any USB device with them. Your honest opinion, if the battery is unknown, what is the safest option?
In this discussion we are questioning the reliability of the regulated charging circuit within a modern mod. So if this is on the table for scrutiny, would it be safer to send 2 amps to the device in hope that it regulates it properly, or send 0.5 amps to the device in hopes that it regulates it properly? And what if the device does not specify what it is able to handle? Should we just guess or use the safest option. I cannot find the charging specs of the Smok X8 that blew up in the video @Baditude posted. I will fault Smok for that but to me the safest option would be to use the USB 2 spec of 0.5 amps. Will admit we do not know what was used here, or if over charging was even the issue. But device failures from over charging happen, and not just with vape devices.
Apple iPhone charger = 5v 1amp
Apple iPad charger = 5.1v 5.1amps
Common Samsung charger = 5v 2amps
Latest Samsung quick charger (to be used with specific phones) 5v 5.8 amps
Computer USB = 5v 0.5amps.
All the above charging options all have a USB 2 connection that temps users to charge any USB device with them. Your honest opinion, if the battery is unknown, what is the safest option?
There was a long discussion on that You Tube video concerning the SMOK x8 explosion and fire. I don't recall if the user reported in that discussion what charging setup that he was using. He did send the remains on to @Mooch for inspection, but there wasn't much left to look at to determine the cause.
Perhaps @Mooch can jump on here and add his advice and comments to your questions. I thought I had heard him say in one of his videos not to use one's computer to charge mods with internal batteries.
We do not "send" anything, the device "consumes" current (it's pulling, like a coil from a mech). By having a 0.5A wall charger you rely on the device properly recognizing that and regulating down to 0.5A, not trying to pull more.
If it does pull more, and in the case of cheap USB power supplies it can, the power supply gets hot or can even fail catastrophically. A transformer alone doesn't limit current, the device can draw current above the rating of the supply which can end badly. It's not in any way a safety practice to use an underrated power supply, the current rating on power supplies is meant to indicate the maximum current you're allowed to draw from it, the components aren't spec'd for higher current.
First of all I would need to know if the charging circuit can determine according to standard what power it's allowed to draw and regulates accordingly.
For argument's sake let's say it can't and that it will try to draw 1A no matter what.
Apple do their own thing so only ever charge the Apple device the supply came with and the PC is going to trip/switch off the USB port so they are ruled out, I'd use the 2A samsung charger since it can at least provide the 1A needed.
Let's look at the case where it can determine what it's allowed to draw, then I'd connect it to the Samsung supply as well (Apple still has the same problem as before and the PC would result in slower charging - but would work fine).
Another case to look at would be a generic 2A USB wall power supply (accurately rated), in that case I'd choose that over the computer because it would provide the full 1A max current and charge my battery quicker.
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Send vs consume – agree, my bad on the wording. But a battery will consume what it is given. I can send up to 2 amps to my batteries by making a change on my charger. If said batteries cannot consume that current, what happens?
Apple chargers can be used on many non Apple USB device’s. At least the one that I own. Quite possible Apple has performed some technical trickery to prevent this with other chargers – I have not experienced this. Same with Samsung. I have used Samsung 2amp chargers with many non Samsung devices. With an iPhone it does charge at double the time it takes vs a regular Apple 1amp charger (subjectively, I actually have not timed it). The phone also gets hotter than usual. So why the heat and quicker charging rate if the phone is only drawing 1 amp? And what would happen if I used a 5v 5amp charger?
@Baditude recommended to not use a computer for charging. I simply asked why and gave my opinion why I personally think this is a safer option vs a wall charger to which many have no idea of their output. If they do not know the output of their charger, and do not understand the charging capabilities of their device then what is the safest option?
I can understand not using a computer to mitigate wear and tear and possible damage to the computer due to that. But how far can that be taken when we plug in countless of devices into the USB ports without taking that into concern? It is argued the vape device can short causing a computer failure – same can be said about a powered hard drive or printer.
So if we do not trust the vape device, then we do not trust it’s regulated charging circuitry, then the safest option is to give it less power when charging to which a computer with it’s 0.5 amp output would fit that bill perfectly. I have experienced this with one of my vape devices heating up to scary levels with a 2amp charger and not heating up when charged from a computer. But will say this is not exclusive with all devices - @Zazie did mention the Kroma does not heat up when charged with a 2amp charger. I don’t own a Kroma so will take his word. But we can’t use this example for all devices as I noted with my experience.
Apple chargers can be used on many non Apple USB device’s. At least the one that I own. Quite possible Apple has performed some technical trickery to prevent this with other chargers – I have not experienced this. Same with Samsung. I have used Samsung 2amp chargers with many non Samsung devices. With an iPhone it does charge at double the time it takes vs a regular Apple 1amp charger (subjectively, I actually have not timed it). The phone also gets hotter than usual. So why the heat and quicker charging rate if the phone is only drawing 1 amp? And what would happen if I used a 5v 5amp charger?
@Baditude recommended to not use a computer for charging. I simply asked why and gave my opinion why I personally think this is a safer option vs a wall charger to which many have no idea of their output. If they do not know the output of their charger, and do not understand the charging capabilities of their device then what is the safest option?
I can understand not using a computer to mitigate wear and tear and possible damage to the computer due to that. But how far can that be taken when we plug in countless of devices into the USB ports without taking that into concern? It is argued the vape device can short causing a computer failure – same can be said about a powered hard drive or printer.
So if we do not trust the vape device, then we do not trust it’s regulated charging circuitry, then the safest option is to give it less power when charging to which a computer with it’s 0.5 amp output would fit that bill perfectly. I have experienced this with one of my vape devices heating up to scary levels with a 2amp charger and not heating up when charged from a computer. But will say this is not exclusive with all devices - @Zazie did mention the Kroma does not heat up when charged with a 2amp charger. I don’t own a Kroma so will take his word. But we can’t use this example for all devices as I noted with my experience.
@Baditude – I have not watched all of Mooch’s videos so won’t rule out the possibility he recommended to not use a computer. If you know of the vid, or find it please post – I will be interested in seeing it. Thx 
But the vids I have seen he has mentioned time and time again, if your batteries are heating up due to charging at higher levels, then to turn down those levels. My reference with charging at 0.5 amps vs 2 amps shadows this. When dealing with a vape device, we do not know what it’s regulated charging circuit is capable of.
But the vids I have seen he has mentioned time and time again, if your batteries are heating up due to charging at higher levels, then to turn down those levels. My reference with charging at 0.5 amps vs 2 amps shadows this. When dealing with a vape device, we do not know what it’s regulated charging circuit is capable of.
Well I kind of agree with that
Sadly "computer" is a very broad term. I'd say charge from a PC no problem but maybe not from a netbook with a builtin LiPo you got as a loyalty reward from your supermarket.
A badly designed device will not charge (reversible fused USB ports), so yes that's a safe option because nothing happens. The next thing the average user will do is to prod their USB sticky bit into something else though and then a 0.5A wall wart isn't a good option.
If the device does charge from a computer without tripping a fuse then I would assume it'd also be able to switch down for a 0.5A PS.
There's an interesting blog about mintyboost (somehow not in my bookmarks
), a 3rd party open HW USB AA battery power bank coming from adafruit, they document in detail what they did to get iPods/iPhones/iWhatchagots to charge (they got designs for 1A LiPo banks as well now).I've not looked into this recently but what I gathered from it is that Apple do their own thing regarding USB and charging (in some cases possibly layered on top of USB compliant behavior) so without any real technical data I'm not willing to either charge Apple devices from non-Apple power supplies or charge anything non-Apple off an Apple PS.
The thing with the heat is one of the primary reasons why I think internal batteries or internal charging isn't too good an idea. Phones can get toasty even at 0.5A charge rate and it can't be good for the battery's health. Similarly with vape devices, if there's no attention paid to getting rid of the heat generated (battery + circuit) they have the same problem.
One vape industry problem is that many devices that can charge over USB (sometimes exclusively) don't come with a power supply or evoke trust into them being able to do a USB "handshake" (yeah it's not a handshake) to charge off any USB compliant power supply. The SMOK stick from the example accident has an internal LiPo, can only be charged via USB and doesn't come with a PS. That's pretty much the worst possible package you can get safety wise and I wouldn't trust it to not blow up even when supplied with 0.5A from a computer USB.
@untar @Baditude
Actually enjoying this conversation and would love to continue but fear that it has veered off topic. Just heading out for an evening if wickedness and whisky – tomorrow, pending hangover, I’ll open a thread on USB charging for the purpose of devices with non removable batteries so others can contribute as well. Enjoy your Friday evening.
@GreenFuzzer – don’t let this tech talk on batteries and USB discourage you. Please feel free to ask questions about coils (or even batteries and USB!)
Actually enjoying this conversation and would love to continue but fear that it has veered off topic. Just heading out for an evening if wickedness and whisky – tomorrow, pending hangover, I’ll open a thread on USB charging for the purpose of devices with non removable batteries so others can contribute as well. Enjoy your Friday evening.
@GreenFuzzer – don’t let this tech talk on batteries and USB discourage you. Please feel free to ask questions about coils (or even batteries and USB!
)
Tommorow, I'll actually be attending the first girls' HS basketball game of the year. I'm sort of a geek for girls volleyball and especially basket ball. I'm going to be following a 6' 4" sophmore who last year as a freshman averaged 25 points, 11 rebounds, and 3 blocks per game and already has three offers to major Division I schools.
NP – I’ll open a thread on Sunday. I’ll probably be in a better state of mind given tonight's festivities. Enjoy your game.
I suggest getting ahead of the game.
1. But some coils from wherever you can get them in your home country.
2. Stock up with cheaper authentic coils with no shipping charge from Fasttech... other stores in China are available.
Cheaper and no shipping is my kind of deal. You have to get ahead of the game though and work out how long you need to supply yourself for.
I'm half a year in front with one of my tanks.
1. But some coils from wherever you can get them in your home country.
2. Stock up with cheaper authentic coils with no shipping charge from Fasttech... other stores in China are available.
Cheaper and no shipping is my kind of deal. You have to get ahead of the game though and work out how long you need to supply yourself for.
I'm half a year in front with one of my tanks.
I suggest getting ahead of the game.
1. But some coils from wherever you can get them in your home country.
2. Stock up with cheaper authentic coils with no shipping charge from Fasttech... other stores in China are available.
Cheaper and no shipping is my kind of deal. You have to get ahead of the game though and work out how long you need to supply yourself for.
I'm half a year in front with one of my tanks.
I agree completely with djsvapour, but thought some additional information might be useful. The reason for buying a handful of coils locally is so you have something to use during the lengthy wait for the cheaper Fasttech coils. Shipping from China is slow.
When buying from Fasttech, you want to be sure the coils are labelled "authentic". In Fasttech-speak, 'styled' or nothing means clone, 'authentic' means actually made by the named company.
Buying from China (or eBay or Amazon) can be risky. However, Fasttech and a few other Chinese vendors are known around here for reliably letting you know which products are genuine and which aren't.
Thank you to those that helped with my question. LOL Also, thank you to all those that got me confused, hopefully, someday I will understand what the bleep you were saying. I will say that I always keep a close watch on whatever I'm charging, partially because it is the logical thing to do and partially because hubby is a former fireman.
1.6 ohm is not a sub ohm coil, suggest seeing if this works for you.
Might like to read some commentaries on sub-ohm vaping:
What Ohms should I choose?
How is sub-ohm vaping dangerous?
https://spinfuel.com/new-vapers-start/
https://spinfuel.com/sub-ohm-vaping/
I'll attach a pic to explain....but unlike most tanks where the coil is screwed into the tank/tank base....on this the coil is actually the 510 for the tank, so then each time you replace the coil you are getting a new 510 connection, which is kind of nice for less wear and tear on the 510 over time of the atty
That's 1 in a million... Chances are that that tank will leak, that's why they no longer do that.
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