Why 5 Volts?

[wv2win]

Because of the time between charges, I'd be very interested except I get mouth sores when using my favorite juice on 5V. It got so bad, I had to go off vaping completely for a month to heal. Never again will I use anything but 3.7V again.

I really don't get the connection or have ever seen anyone else ever mention that connection. Mouth sores from different eliquids regardless of the PV used due to the flavorings or PG or VG. But never seen anyone else ever mention voltage and mouth sores.

 

[wv2win]

a provari uses a 3.7v battery that gets boosted, so yes, it measures 4.2v when fully charged.
not sure on glv2 or darwin, as i don't own either of those.
but i meant the standard fat batts like the op was talking about.

So you are saying that a Provari will not put out voltage above 4.2 volts????

 

[Kropotkin]

The larger the voltage and resistance, the safer vaping you'll have and the longer battery life you'll get.

Okay. I think I understand that. Sort of.

And it sounds like you guys are recommending gear at, like, 3ish ohms? Is that right?

 

[appletux]

Okay. I think I understand that. Sort of.

And it sounds like you guys are recommending gear at, like, 3ish ohms? Is that right?

I think all you need is a comfortable heat from the coil. The more ohms you have the more volts you need to move those electrons to generate heat. The difference is that with a larger resistance and larger volts, you'll get fewer electrons moving through the coil, but they'll move faster. That way you still get enough heat with lower amps, thus generating the same power output with less battery draining, having then a longer battery life and a safer experience.

The caveat is that to have a large voltage, lets say 12Volts, you' ll need a larger battery. I am not sure how much that large, but i only can think about a car battery.

 

[wv2win]

Okay. I think I understand that. Sort of.

And it sounds like you guys are recommending gear at, like, 3ish ohms? Is that right?

There is nothing "unsafe" about using a 1.5 ohm dual coil carto, for example, with a 5 volt PV. Thousands of people do it all the time. I wouldn't use a single coil 1.5 ohm atty/carto at 5 volts simply because it would be too hot but not due to a safety issue. Any dual coil will do fine at 5 volts. Any single coil above 2.0 ohms (my preference is around 2.8 ohms) will also do fine at 5 volts. You will see a difference in the warmth of the vapor.

 

[iamtumus]

So you are saying that a Provari will not put out voltage above 4.2 volts????

no, i'm saying at full charge, the 18650, 18490, or 18350 batteries which can be used in a provari all measure 4.2 volts when fully charged.

 

[Berylanna]

Okay. I think I understand that. Sort of.

And it sounds like you guys are recommending gear at, like, 3ish ohms? Is that right?

You need to know what watts you like then work from either your batts or your loads (carto, atty, clearo, whatever) to get the right watts.
The best argument I've found for high voltage is if you are using a coil-type atty that wraps around the wick -- then a higher-resistance coil could have more wraps around the wick (unless someone just used a different wire or something) so presumably better flavor. Some folks wrap their own.

Yeah, if you are vaping at 5v and don't want a lot of heat you need high ohms. (volts X volts)/ohms == watts. Most folks vape at 5-9 watts, I like about 4.75 with my juice.

 

[mostapha]

That battery looks perfect for an 801 fusion 2.5ohm if it actually gives regulated 5V under load……except that it's automatic.

Maybe I just had bad experiences, but I have no idea why anyone would want an automatic battery.

 

[Kropotkin]

Well, it's hard to explain, really, but I do find the automatics more graceful and more satisfying than the manuals. The have a lazy, almost hookah-like quality that I really, really love - much more, in fact, than I ever loved tobacco cigarettes.

I also hate the techish feeling of manuals, and buttons and switches and things that click; they somehow give me the feeling that I'm sort of injecting vapor into my mouth, which I don't find at all appealing.

But, as I'm sure you know, it's very hard to find automatics in anything other than the skinny little cig-like batts, so I guess I must be in a micro-minority on this point. Hence my burning interest in anything that's BIG and AUTO at the same time.



Thanks for the suggestion! I'll try that!

 

[DaveP]

They must be using something like the Kick that regulates voltage upward. It really doesn't matter what the voltage is as long as the voltage you use matches in relation to the resistance of the atomizer coil. 2 ohms at 5v is 12.5 watts. That's take your lip off heat to me. At 3 ohms, 5v is a little over 8 watts. 2 ohms at 3.7v is 6.85 watts ... the sweet spot for me.

To each his own.

 

[AttyPops]

5.0 was really popular before the LR atties and Cartomizers came out. Of course now I see a lot of people have gone with VV.

I like keeping things simple and it's hard to beat a an all mechanical tube with a single 18650 and a 510 LR atty. You can get all fancy and use ohms law to figure out exactly how hot your atty is. But in the end it's still personal preference. I prefer consistency.

LR atties don't last as long (on average across all makes/models) IMO. Also 5 volts has Oomph. I'm vv now, but would much rather have 5v than 3.7...regardless of equal wattage. Consistency comes with voltage regulation, and that usually comes with vv or 5v.... yes... there's PWM regulated 3.x volts... eGo for example. But all-mechanical mods are not regulated and not consistent IMO.

 

[AttyPops]

Tube mod. Is it well vented?

Box mods rule.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

Some like higher volts...Me, I'm at 6v all day.

 

[Berylanna]

Tube mod. Is it well vented?

Box mods rule.

OK, I'll bite. Why, and how much $$, and how many are single-batt? VV? Aren't many box mods bottom-feeders? If I ask this on the APV forum will I start a fight?

 

[AttyPops]

OK, I'll bite. Why, and how much $$, and how many are single-batt? VV? Aren't many box mods bottom-feeders? If I ask this on the APV forum will I start a fight?

lol. Probably won't start a fight.

Like all things APV......it varies. Research is key.
$$ vary
Some are single, others dual and regulated (fixed v, or vv).
Many are bottom feeders, but those I use are not. I drip mostly (currently testing a tank tho).

I say it a bit tongue-in-cheek, BTW. The key with what I'm using is that the "door/side" will fly off easily (not screwed in or anything). So it can't build up internal pressure.

Also, I can build them without a machine shop. Some are wood, others plastic. Some modders have made them out of metal (even Altoids Tins) and there may be metal ones made commercially.

Bottom line is that you have to check how it functions (door wise) and ensure that it doesn't build up pressure. And it's not a 100% guarantee on my part (disclaimer!). Check into it.

Also, if you check into bottomfeeders, research "Squonk"...I think that's how they spell it.

 

[18SixFifty]

LR atties don't last as long (on average across all makes/models) IMO. Also 5 volts has Oomph. I'm vv now, but would much rather have 5v than 3.7...regardless of equal wattage. Consistency comes with voltage regulation, and that usually comes with vv or 5v.... yes... there's PWM regulated 3.x volts... eGo for example. But all-mechanical mods are not regulated and not consistent IMO.

I have a GLV that is gathering dust. It's of course regulated down to 5 volts. Just not for me. A tube mod like the megalodon (I have one of the first ones made) that I use is consistent as long as you keep your batteries fresh. That isn't hard to do if you use quality batteries. I get your point about regulators giving the same consistent voltage. However, it is still going to vary depending on your atty.

I don't worry about atties, I buy them from China for under a buck each delivered. LR 510,s. Or should I say I did about two years ago. I still have about a hundred left.

I also used to make all kinds of box mods. I must have at least 20 of them laying around. Heck I used to have Mad Vapes on my speed dial.

 

[wv2win]

I have a GLV that is gathering dust. It's of course regulated down to 5 volts. Just not for me. A tube mod like the megalodon (I have one of the first ones made) that I use is consistent as long as you keep your batteries fresh. That isn't hard to do if you use quality batteries. I get your point about regulators giving the same consistent voltage. However, it is still going to vary depending on your atty. .......

It won't vary if you use a variable wattage Darwin. Not only is it power regulated and uses boost circuit technology, it also senses the change in the resistence of whatever atty/carto you are using and automatically adjusts the power to meet the setting you dialed in.

 

[18SixFifty]

It won't vary if you use a variable wattage Darwin. Not only is it power regulated and uses boost circuit technology, it also senses the change in the resistence of whatever atty/carto you are using and automatically adjusts the power to meet the setting you dialed in.

Sweet, now that I didn't know.

 

[mostapha]

The Kick does the same thing. So does the DNA12 board which might appeal to you more……you could shove one in one of your box mods and get the functionality of a Darwin (minus the screen) for very little money (no idea if that's a concern for you…it appears not). They're all made by the same company and apart from form factor and their limits (Kick only goes up to 10W, for example) they seem like they'd give almost exactly the same vape as long as the battery can keep up.

 

[fieldh0]

So, let's see if I have it right. Any VV with switching regulator will keep a consistent vape. When they started producing Carty's they were generally medium to high resistance so it was a good idea to have a VV. Thus, when you want higher wattage you could increase the voltage. Then, along came low resistance carty's. Now, by choosing a low R carty, you can increase voltage without having a VV at 5 or 6 volts. So my varicool smokbox beast has a top end of 6.5 volts at 6 amps. If I want to run it at full power, I'd better have a carty operating at over 5 ohms. I love the consistent vape so I'll stick with 2 to 3 ohms at 4.5 volts. This is my first box mod so I'm just feeling out the settings. Anyway, thanks so much for all the information. I realize this little box has far more power than I need, right now, but I'll be ready if they ever come out with a quadracoil 8 ohm tank.