Why do I want/need temperature control?

[Zombo]

I haven't tried TC yet because I'm waiting for the new & improved version. Now, I don't have a problem with dry hits...I vape mostly high PG in a Lemo Drop that's very forgiving when it comes to wicking. I think the real point of TC (for me anyways) is the avoidance of over-cooking your juice so it doesn't form nasty chemicals (formaldehyde, etc.). Although, I suppose for dripping the no-dry-hits thing could come in handy.

One thing I'm confused about, however; from demos I have seen, it appears that TC works by cutting back your wattage when necessary. If that's the case, then why not just vape at a lower wattage? What am I missing?

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Back on topic, once you go TC you don't go back, personally i'll never vape another non-tc mod again.

Now that is a bit scary....

That's an interesting point regarding low wattage vaping and TC, translated to TC you would likely be a low temp 350f-370ish vaper and your wattage setting would only really directly effect your ramp up time (as that's mainly all it does in any TC mod).

99% of the time i vape at .16/440f @ 30 watts, i just took my dna200 and turned it down to 370f @ 15w (in an rda, no less) and it still produces a satisfying, though a bit cool, vape.

What American made mod did it debut in?

Probably either a Hana or an Opus, dunno who got it out first, the DNA40 definitely didn't make its first appearing in a Chinese mod.

Next.

 

[Zombo]

What American made mod did it debut in?

I'm not sure which mod it appeared in first, but the first TC chip was invented by Evolve (American company).

 

[stevegmu]

Never heard of Opus. I thought Hana went under a long time ago. Haven't heard anything about them in a long time. All the TC mods I see are PRC specials...

 

[stevegmu]

I'm not sure which mod it appeared in first, but the first TC chip was invented by Evolve (American company).

I know. Evolv doesn't made a mod and their chips/boards were so junky the technology seemingly went straight to China...

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

One thing I'm confused about, however; from demos I have seen, it appears that TC works by cutting back your wattage when necessary. If that's the case, then why not just vape at a lower wattage? What am I missing?

It modulates the wattage to maintain the desired coil temperature, so generally it will initially fire at maximum set wattage (or in the DNA200's case whatever you set your "punch" to) then will vary the wattage (usually down) to keep at or below the set temp, not matter what, ie it will push it all the way down 1w if necessary. In a properly built setup/correct setting you should be able to achieve your desired temp/hit duration without it having to modulate the wattage down, while consistently maintaining the set temp.

Never heard of Opus. I thought Hana went under a long time ago. Haven't heard anything about them in a long time. All the TC mods I see are PRC specials...

I know. Evolv doesn't made a mod and their chips/boards were so junky the technology seemingly went straight to China...

These two statements prove you are out of touch on this matter and should just bow out of this thread. I mean come on theres been a Hana thread front-page regularly for days and you "think they went under a long time ago".

Sorry, you shouldn't just go around speaking as if you have knowledge of TC, when you obviously have none.

 

[Visus]

Lol wow tracking this way now woot

I have to agree China actually did the dang thing right and no shady tooly biznuss moves just a great mod and after Yihi they seemed to get it right.

There's people still having issues with their upgraded DNA40's today. Busardo reviewed a DNA40 mod a month ago and it had screen issues its not their best release but kinda is lol TC in the house of vape..

People say the DNA40 does it better than the other TC mods with regard to throttling the power. IDK
I will say a German made pipeline pro v2 whips(since we talkin whips) em all in size, performance to 40watts and it is in a very compact tube mod. Germany has this one won hands down.. That mod is stupid niiiiiice...

 

[stevegmu]

It modulates the wattage to maintain the desired coil temperature, so generally it will initially fire at maximum set wattage (or in the DNA200's case whatever you set your "punch" to) then will vary the wattage (usually down) to keep at or below the set temp, not matter what, ie it will push it all the way down 1w if necessary. In a properly built setup/correct setting you should be able to achieve your desired temp/hit duration without it having to modulate the wattage down, while consistently maintaining the set temp.





These two statements prove you are out of touch on this matter and should just bow out of this thread. I mean come on theres been a Hana thread front-page regularly for days and you "think they went under a long time ago".

Sorry, you shouldn't just go around speaking as if you have knowledge of TC, when you obviously have none.

If someone knows how to vape, why is it needed? None of the TC crowd seems to be able to answer this. I know they feel they are doing advanced vaping, but it seems like controlling the power and wicking achieves the same result, but is easier and provides for a better vape, as different e-liquids require different power levels to achieve an ideal taste...

 

[stevegmu]

Lol wow tracking this way now woot

I have to agree China actually did the dang thing right and no shady tooly biznuss moves just a great mod and after Yihi they seemed to get it right.

There's people still having issues with their upgraded DNA40's today. Busardo reviewed a DNA40 mod a month ago and it had screen issues its not their best release but kinda is lol TC in the house of vape..

People say the DNA40 does it better than the other TC mods with regard to throttling the power. IDK
I will say a German made pipeline pro v2 whips(since we talkin whips) em all in size, performance to 40watts and it is in a very compact tube mod. Germany has this one won hands down.. That mod is stupid niiiiiice...

Exactly. Evolv couldn't get it right, China copied it and it works better, but still not for newbs, who would benefit most from it...

 

[roxynoodle]

My thoughts:

No, you don't need it unless you're concerned about dry hits.

I had a lot of issues with my DNA40s and am allergic to nickel so disregarded it for a long time.

I just wanted to learn something new so became one of the beta testers for the Yihi titanium upgrade. And now I admit I really like it. Having the exact same puff everytime is actually pretty nice. No needing to get my coils heated up. No need to take a break because things are a little too hot. And that's really its best purpose IMO. Not dry hits, but rather completely consistant vaping.

Am I going to give up my kanthal mods and mechs? Nope! Am I going to get more tc mods? Yep!

 

[disley]

Since I've been using stainless steel I haven't come close to a dry hit or burned juice.
It will replace kanthal and nickel as soon as it's easily available.
I have a couple of TC mods, which are ok, but I don't really need them, I've been vaping long enough to pick up on a dry hit before it gets near my throat.

 

[Bunnykiller]

Just Curious. Have you tried using Titanium Grade 1 wire instead of Ni-200?

nope.... no one in the area sells it... and not to keen on the idea of buying bulk (online) just to find out what its like... spent way too much for Ni200 at a B&M only to realize its soft, hard to wick, and connections can be quite iffy. I like to keep it simple, Kanthal suits my needs

 

[Bunnykiller]

Why do they call them buggy whips when you whip the horse with them?

it makes the horses "buggy" when you whip them...

 

[Mad Scientist]

. . .
Also am I right in thinking that with tc I could ramp the wattage up and the heat up time would be much quicker but the temp control would kick in and stop the power getting too high?

Yup. And if you go whole hog and get a DNA 200 based mod (tons will be available by this fall), you can tailor the initial ramp up "preheat" curve to suit your preference. In some ways it can be a whole different vape experience, depending on what you like or want. In a nutshell, you have up to a full 200 watts available for ramp up to temp and then whatever temp you want. You can set up an atty so a super short quarter-second "puff" of a lung hit is a full cloud of vape, without the chance of inhaling the charcoal dust that your wick just turned in to because you didn't modulate the button on the mech just right lol. You can do a long, slow draw that boils off every drop of juice in a fat wick without that last bit of formaldehyde burn in your throat from over temp as that wick dries out.

What are you using now and what are your typical preferences? I'll go out on a limb and say most folks would prefer a TC mod if they tried a good one.

 

[coldgin96]

They can't deem a battery holder a tobacco product. Maybe a disposable...

How 'bout the vendor in New York putting a light bulb on the end of his mods, "It's a flashlight..."

 

[UncleChuck]

Every temperature has a corresponding voltage to resistance ratio. Why not just learn what they are?

Not true at all; there are many variables that effect the temperature of the coil that have nothing to do with voltage and resistance. Changing those two allows you to control power, what it does not do is give you any real ability to control temperature.

Just a few variables to consider that won't be figured into any ohms law power calculations:

• different juice blends, vaporizing at lower or higher temperatures
  
• stronger or weaker draws, stronger ones drawing more juice and cooling with more air
  
• longer or shorter draws, longer draws drying wick more raising temp
  
• hotter or colder ambient temperature
  
• wick type and juice feed rate,
  
• heat sinking ability of the atty, when the atty is cold it will absorb more heat from the coil, as it heats up the coil will also get hotter.

I haven't named them all. Together they make trying to control temperature with just math pretty pointless. There is a big difference between temp control and just avoiding dry/burnt hits, as one can be done pretty easily with a bit of experience and the other requires active monitoring of the coil.

VUSE already has it. Just try to get a dry hit with one...

I didn't have to try. Before the juice was gone the coil was gunked and giving that sizzling after-burn sound with the wonderful flavors of burnt low quality tobacco liquid. I'm not sure what type of temperature control they are using but it's about as legit as the Smok M80's first release.

 

[Dampmaskin]

I used TC exclusively for a few months. Then I went back to Kanthal for a few months. Now I'm back on TC again. In a few months, maybe I'll be back on Kanthal, who knows? In any case, having options is a good thing.

 

[UncleChuck]

As for why the OP would want/need TC, I'd say if you are asking then you obviously don't. If you are curious and want to try it out then do so, but I don't see the point in getting people to convince you one way or the other. You're just going to get posts reflecting whether someone personally likes TC, not whether it would be something good for you.

To prove that point () I love TC and after getting a SXM and a Sig 75W as a backup I sold and gave away literally every single other device I owned and cut my atty stockpile down to only select tanks that work well with TC. I'm a long time vaper who is generally pretty slow to change, have been rebuilding for a long time and never experienced performance issues with kanthal, but I am still happier now with my TC builds and devices than I have ever been in the past.

I'm getting at the very least 4-5 times longer before re-wicks are required, performance and consistency are outstanding and match my preferences perfectly. Your mileage may vary.

 

[tj99959]

Not true at all; there are many variables that effect the temperature of the coil that have nothing to do with voltage and resistance. Changing those two allows you to control power, what it does not do is give you any real ability to control temperature.

Just a few variables to consider that won't be figured into any ohms law power calculations:

• different juice blends, vaporizing at lower or higher temperatures
  
• stronger or weaker draws, stronger ones drawing more juice and cooling with more air
  
• longer or shorter draws, longer draws drying wick more raising temp
  
• hotter or colder ambient temperature
  
• wick type and juice feed rate,
  
• heat sinking ability of the atty, when the atty is cold it will absorb more heat from the coil, as it heats up the coil will also get hotter.

I haven't named them all. Together they make trying to control temperature with just math pretty pointless. There is a big difference between temp control and just avoiding dry/burnt hits, as one can be done pretty easily with a bit of experience and the other requires active monitoring of the coil. .

Disagree:
Yes those variables effect the quality of the vape, but they're the same with or without TC. TC only controls the temp of the coil, it has no idea what juice you're using, or how long a draw you take. In the end, adjusting the temp. is no different than adjusting the voltage.

 

[Vaslovik]

I enjoy the technical challenge of making it work, but I have yet to find a setup that gets close to a good Kanthal build. As already stated, if no dry hits is the main selling point, I already have that with Kanthal, my taste buds and experience.

Same here. My temperature control is in how I do my build.