Why is New BB Dropping 6v?

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Lumiis

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Quick, you really know your stuff, mad props man.

I'm really excited about the Enercell wallplug, trying to find a price on it now.
Quick, could you post a link to the one you have? I'm seeing about 50 different kinds.

This is just one more reasaon i want a BB, to my knowledge the SB doesnt have a PT (correct me if im wrong)

The BB bothers me cause i want to put it in my pocket and dont want it to misfire, though this is my ONLY concern, otherwise it is amazing.

This will be my first mod, and you guys are just so helpful.
 
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lotus14

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Look around. There are lots of options for 2.8 - 5.2 ohm 510s and you can skip the adapter. OTOH, you may find that an LR 510 atty at 3.7v is all you need.

For me a regular 2.2 ohm 510 at 6v is just too hot. A few great hits and then yuck.

The BB is very unlikely to fire in your pocket. You should take the atty off anyway, but I never have and it's never been a problem.
 

cddz

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Could anyone list some measurements on the BB and SB?

All i know is the BB has the diameter of a nickel.

If you could list the Dia of the SB and lengths of both that would be awesome.

I'm ordering one or the other tonight, just torn between the two.

The diameter of the BB is .850in and 3.650in long. The SB diameter is 1.1in and 4.33in long.
 

grink

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Feb 27, 2010
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I picked up some unprotected and protected CR2s for my BB

received the unprotected ones by mistake and tried them first with a HV 510 @3ohms

worked great. fresh charge 3.5x2=7.0/3 ohms = 2.34a
regular atty =7v/2.3= 3a gotta say three amps cooks the juice

when the protected batts came in my HV atty had already died. they did not work with the regular 510 atty, must be the protection.

I have to say this. Nothing compares to the BB with a low R atty.
fresh off the charger you get 4.2v/1.5 = 2.8

I switch to a new battery when they get below 3.95v I am a heavy vapor and it takes hours to do this. at 3.95v/1.5 = 2.63a

Why take the chance, its the current that matters. the sweet spot is 2.5-2.8 amps as far as flavor and vapor production is concerned.

get six 14500 batts and two chargers, one at home, one at work, you will always have fresh batteries. on a long trip you have six fresh batteries.

there is no need to bother with 6v now that low R attys are in the game.
 

Elf

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No offense intended but this part is wrong. The protection does not regulate voltage. In fact, my 3.0v protected batteries charge (with a charger putting out 4.02v to 3.8 -3.9v. That quickly drops off to about 3.5 to 3.6v shortly after the batteries come off the charger. The battery operates down to around 3.2 or 3.1v when the pcb disconnects. I would have expected the circuit to let it discharge a bit lower but that's where it seems to cut off. The pcb is mainly there to regulate current (discharge rate -- like a short circuit) and will also disconnect at some max and min voltage to prevent overcharge or undercharge, but it does not regulate voltage within that range. The 3.0v batteries that are Li-Ion (a Li-Ion cell operates at 3.7v) will/should also include a voltage regulator to cut down the voltage but that's not really part of the "pcb". When batteries are listed as being some voltage batteries that's the nominal voltage. They will operate at some voltage above that and, usually, down to or maybe below that. Your 3.7v 14500 batteries usually come off the charger at 4.2v. A load/resistance will "draw" a certain amount of current at a particular voltage. If the supply is not capable of providing that amount of current then you will see a voltage drop until it satisifies the ohm's law equation.

I have a slightly different understanding of this. From what I have read and experimented with myself, I believe that the pcb in these "3v" batteries does also include the voltage regulator. Also when you measure the voltage of the batteries unloaded, you will see a higher reading than when you place a load on them. When any significant load is placed, the circuit kicks in and clamps down on the voltage bringing it down to ~3v per cell (measured in milliseconds I believe). Finally, cut-off occurs in the pcb when the voltage drops below the minimum set point (varies with battery chemistry, from 3-2.x volts), or if it exceeds the maximum one(4-4.2 volts). The above appears to be the case for all Li-based "3v" batteries, regardless of the chemistry.

I'd certainly be interested if anyone has more information.
 

Quick1

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I have a slightly different understanding of this.

No, I think we have the same understanding. I was more making a distinction between the protection circuitry and the voltage regulation circuitry that's all.

The 3.0v batteries that are Li-Ion (a Li-Ion cell operates at 3.7v) will/should also include a voltage regulator to cut down the voltage but that's not really part of the "pcb".
 

Elf

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No, I think we have the same understanding. I was more making a distinction between the protection circuitry and the voltage regulation circuitry that's all.

I guess what I meant is that it would seem to appear that for the 3v Li-based batteries, both the voltage regulation circuit, as well as the over/under voltage protection circuit, are indeed implemented on the same very same pcb.
 

cddz

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I guess what I meant is that it would seem to appear that for the 3v Li-based batteries, both the voltage regulation circuit, as well as the over/under voltage protection circuit, are indeed implemented on the same very same pcb.
There is not a voltage reg circuit on the PCB, the only voltage reg is the high/low. The PCB regulates the charge/discharge current only.
 

Elf

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There is not a voltage reg circuit on the PCB, the only voltage reg is the high/low. The PCB regulates the charge/discharge current only.

oooooh! hmm.. where do they hide the voltage regulating circuit? I guess I was under the impression that all the electronics were on the printed circuit board.
 

cddz

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oooooh! hmm.. where do they hide the voltage regulating circuit? I guess I was under the impression that all the electronics were on the printed circuit board.
They are on the PCB, I am saying there is no voltage regulation in the way you were refering to. It only has under and over voltage protection. When the circuit trips it is triggered by current(amps)
 

Elf

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They are on the PCB, I am saying there is no voltage regulation in the way you were refering to. It only has under and over voltage protection. When the circuit trips it is triggered by current(amps)

wow... okay, now I am really confused..
When I read specs on the 3v lithium batteries, they often talk about the time in milliseconds it takes for the battery to clamp the voltage down to 3v when a load is placed on it. What I thought I was understanding from this was that when the load was put on the battery, for a very brief time the voltage is higher than 3v until the circuit kicked in - which would be an important point if the circuit the battery is powering can not handle any more than 3v. If I remember right, one of the points I read about was in regards to some particular kind of flashlight situation (LED powered maybe?) where a certain voltage was required, but that these kinds of batteries could not be used because since they delivered more voltage for a brief moment until the circuit clamped it down to 3v, they ran the risk of blowing out the LEDs in that short moment..(?) With the specs usually rating the time in milliseconds before the voltage is clamped down to 3v, I was convinced that there was some active voltage regulation going on. Now I have to wonder what these ratings are about, and how they are ensuring 3v from a seemingly higher voltage source... goodness.. this is making my head spin!
 

Quick1

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cddz

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wow... okay, now I am really confused..
When I read specs on the 3v lithium batteries, they often talk about the time in milliseconds it takes for the battery to clamp the voltage down to 3v when a load is placed on it. What I thought I was understanding from this was that when the load was put on the battery, for a very brief time the voltage is higher than 3v until the circuit kicked in - which would be an important point if the circuit the battery is powering can not handle any more than 3v. If I remember right, one of the points I read about was in regards to some particular kind of flashlight situation (LED powered maybe?) where a certain voltage was required, but that these kinds of batteries could not be used because since they delivered more voltage for a brief moment until the circuit clamped it down to 3v, they ran the risk of blowing out the LEDs in that short moment..(?) With the specs usually rating the time in milliseconds before the voltage is clamped down to 3v, I was convinced that there was some active voltage regulation going on. Now I have to wonder what these ratings are about, and how they are ensuring 3v from a seemingly higher voltage source... goodness.. this is making my head spin!
LOL, sorry to make your head spin. I belive what the flashligh folks are talking about the driver cicuit in there LED flashlight. Did I mention I am a flashlight freak? If there was a clamp in the Li-ion batts how could I test an atty under load at 3.95v when the working voltage is 3.7v?:p
 

Bekinder

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"Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - 4 RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Protected Batteries with a Smart Charger"

So all this knowledge about batteries has my little old head spinning. Quick, are these
batteries and charger you have listed pretty safe using with the BB? I got mine just this past week; and after using the SB with 6v, I find the BB wanting on flavor production. Feels like I'm puffing air and I do enjoy tasting the fruity flavors I buy. But there is no way, I feel the BB contends presently with the SB on taste at 3.7v.
I love the size of it though. Just wish these manufacturers would use some batteries that can be traded out with different units. I'm battery/charger poor as it is.
Interesting thread guys!
 
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