Why the switch to 80 + watts over the old low 8 watts standard?
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Look do we really need to get into a what is safer discussion? Honestly? I do MUCH less safe things than vaping EVERY day of my life, starting with each morning when I get in my car.
Being taught to drive helped me... .Somewhat. My kid's a great drive but I started teaching him when he was about 5 (went to a nice farm with a nice long driveway and by the time we left the East Coast he was parallel parking.) He's a good driver and there is still Everyone Else on the Road.
The bottom line is, education increases safety and it should be offered with both types of mods and thee les explosions of ANY type we get would be NICE, not because vaping is inherently unsafe (I truly believe that with the right education it's pretty safe) but there should be education with ALL mods.
I am NOT trying to argue to take away the freedom to Mech at ANY point, I am a TOTAL libertarian when it comes to that.
I DO hate to see young people have terrible health things happen with any device when they are MOSTLY avoidable.
Really. Ya'll know how I drop my dang mods all the time. The worst I have ever suffered was the total destruction of a tesla punk tube.
It's just.... Calm down. Worry about your driving, that is REALLY scary.
Anna
Being taught to drive helped me... .Somewhat. My kid's a great drive but I started teaching him when he was about 5 (went to a nice farm with a nice long driveway and by the time we left the East Coast he was parallel parking.) He's a good driver and there is still Everyone Else on the Road.
The bottom line is, education increases safety and it should be offered with both types of mods and thee les explosions of ANY type we get would be NICE, not because vaping is inherently unsafe (I truly believe that with the right education it's pretty safe) but there should be education with ALL mods.
I am NOT trying to argue to take away the freedom to Mech at ANY point, I am a TOTAL libertarian when it comes to that.
I DO hate to see young people have terrible health things happen with any device when they are MOSTLY avoidable.
Really. Ya'll know how I drop my dang mods all the time. The worst I have ever suffered was the total destruction of a tesla punk tube.
It's just.... Calm down. Worry about your driving, that is REALLY scary.
Anna
A guy in my area was redoing the back deck on his house, he asked a few of the local tradespeople about it and they told him the proper way to go about doing what he wanted to do. Well he kept asking until he found someone that agreed with the way he thought it should be done and went with that.
From year 2014 to 2016 we watched the Watt race. Eventually that plateaued at around 200 W and that stays the highest power available in commercial mod.
There are exceptions, as 200 W are too much for two batteries, so some more serious guys limit power at 140 - 160 W; some other achieve meaningless power of 235 W.
There are also three and four cell devices, going to 300 - 400 W - but again, are experimental in nature. The DNA 250 board - if configured with four cells, can safely achieve 400 W, but is not very common, nor safe - I believe.
The reasons for high power are two: cloud size (boosts ego) and intense flavour (zero calorie replacement for a cake slice and an ice cream).
Giant smelly clouds are not much appreciated in polite society, this has somewhat limited the use of high power devices.
There are mech mods, but their power is limited by the type of connection and the relationship between battery voltage and coil resistance.
I consider any coil below 0.25 Ohm as a safety hazard in a mech - that's is 50 W maximum power from a mech device. I don't take into account (nor own) series mechs - that's looking for trouble.
Following the Watts race, we have seen the (still ongoing) MTL race - this time everybody wanted the devices not for the clouds, but for more practical reasons; because MTL is cool (no idea why), because is cheaper, because you can vape both in company or hidden in plain sight, while getting all the needed nicotine. And without the need to understand Watt, Volt, Ohm, temperature coefficient and cold resistance.
MTL race gave way to the current pod race less than one year ago. Pods are being released at very fast pace, and represent mostly a reinvention of the ecigs of year 2013, with better components and batteries, somewhat cheaper too, but are of average build quality - with a few exceptions.
Stay tuned.
There are exceptions, as 200 W are too much for two batteries, so some more serious guys limit power at 140 - 160 W; some other achieve meaningless power of 235 W.
There are also three and four cell devices, going to 300 - 400 W - but again, are experimental in nature. The DNA 250 board - if configured with four cells, can safely achieve 400 W, but is not very common, nor safe - I believe.
The reasons for high power are two: cloud size (boosts ego) and intense flavour (zero calorie replacement for a cake slice and an ice cream).
Giant smelly clouds are not much appreciated in polite society, this has somewhat limited the use of high power devices.
There are mech mods, but their power is limited by the type of connection and the relationship between battery voltage and coil resistance.
I consider any coil below 0.25 Ohm as a safety hazard in a mech - that's is 50 W maximum power from a mech device. I don't take into account (nor own) series mechs - that's looking for trouble.
Following the Watts race, we have seen the (still ongoing) MTL race - this time everybody wanted the devices not for the clouds, but for more practical reasons; because MTL is cool (no idea why), because is cheaper, because you can vape both in company or hidden in plain sight, while getting all the needed nicotine. And without the need to understand Watt, Volt, Ohm, temperature coefficient and cold resistance.
MTL race gave way to the current pod race less than one year ago. Pods are being released at very fast pace, and represent mostly a reinvention of the ecigs of year 2013, with better components and batteries, somewhat cheaper too, but are of average build quality - with a few exceptions.
Stay tuned.
Well, in 10 months the issue on new mechs and a year after that there won't be any mechs on the market to worry about outside of second hand user to user in the US as there is no way any PMTA can ever be approved, never mind bothering to even file, a mech mod. Whether ordering from overseas will remain questionable, but no one will be walking into any vape shop and leaving with a mech as a starter. If vape shops even still exist.
I can't see the sense in this statement --- if you've got a good 30 amp battery, why is a 0.25 build safe but a 0.2 build a safety hazard? Or do you also suggest that using a single battery regulated mod above 50 watts is safety hazard as well?
Simple answer for me : because that's how i like my vape.
I don't do 80+ (actually 56 watts atm) but still higher than any mtl setups that i know.
I don't do 80+ (actually 56 watts atm) but still higher than any mtl setups that i know.
Naahh... All you have to do is get infinite amp batteries. You know... The Deadpool ones. That way, you can just vape a dead short.
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What?
Using an Ohm's Law calculator, a 0.25 ohm coil with a fully charged battery (4.2 volts) is 70.6 watts, and has a 16.8 amp draw.
With a 0.2 ohm coil, that's 88.2 watts and a 21 amp draw. If you are using a 30 amp battery, you're within the safe operating limits of that battery. So I don't understand your math or your statement, unless that is just your personal cutoff limit in coil resistance.
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What?
Using an Ohm's Law calculator, a 0.25 ohm coil with a fully charged battery (4.2 volts) is 70.6 watts, and has a 16.8 amp draw.
With a 0.2 ohm coil, that's 88.2 watts and a 21 amp draw. If you are using a 30 amp battery, you're within the safe operating limits of that battery. So I don't understand your math or your statement, unless that is just your personal cutoff limit in coil resistance.
I consider not knowing what you just wrote, that is how to calculate amp and wattage draw based on resistance and battery voltage, a safety hazard in general.
Using a mech mod and not understanding how to do and interpret a simple Ohm's Law calculation is a safety hazard in general. Some people should not be using a mechanical mod for that reason alone. I have my doubts about @RayofLight62 based upon his fuzzy math.
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What?
Using an Ohm's Law calculator, a 0.25 ohm coil with a fully charged battery (4.2 volts) is 70.6 watts, and has a 16.8 amp draw.
With a 0.2 ohm coil, that's 88.2 watts and a 21 amp draw. If you are using a 30 amp battery, you're within the safe operating limits of that battery. So I don't understand your math or your statement, unless that is just your personal cutoff limit in coil resistance.
You are correct. But I would like to throw one idea out there. How many people use a decent, reliable DMM of some sort to check the resistance of their build? A certain number may rely on a 521 tab (of which I have and use for building and cleaning//rewicking all the time) which hopefully is reliable, or a mod to check their resistance (non-Smok of course)?
When building I always double check the resistance which was already roughly calculated with Steam Engine (so if my 0.5 ohm simple round is reading 1.2 ohm or 0.2 ohm I know I've got a build issue) on both the 521 tab AND a regulated mod, usually one of my DNA boards.
Now let's say you use a less than terrific multimeter/mod/$5 Amazon ohm reader. It reads 0.25. If it's off by say +/-0.05 ohm you're at .02 to 0.3 ohm. Not the end of the world. Even at 0.2 ohm you'll only draw 21A. Now you've got your 0.2 ohm build, but in reality it's 0.15 ohm. Now you're drawing 28A on hopefully a 30A battery. Start shooting for builds below 0.2 ohm (which some folks do and feel perfectly comfy with as the voltage will drop from 4.2 down reasonably fast) and you're in the no reserve territory. Old battery that can't deliver what it once did in its youth? Maybe a problem.
A 25% overhead for protection so you're not pulling everything that poor battery can give will mean what, 22A on a 30A CDR? Even less on a 25A and a 20A with a 25% buffer is all of 15A. This is where folks will say "but I'm really pulsing it, not running continuously, so where's the problem? If it gets hot I'll stop.". So really, anything at, and certainly under 0.2 ohm erases that overhead.
By Ohm's law you're safe with any load under 30A on a 30A CDR rated and trusted fresh cell (probably even higher when considering a very short pulse on a quality battery with a very stable well connected build). The margin an individual will be comfortable with for their own safety will be based on their individual tolerance of risk. Even If I owned a series/parallel 4 cell HOG, I know my dual coil 0.13 ohm builds are going on my regulated devices. But that's my personal choice.
IMHO, and as @Baditude pointed out, the issue with vape safety esp. with regards to mech,s, isn't knowing Ohm's law, although critical for safety, even on a regulated. The issue is not knowing things like a hybrid DTB connection from a random bodily orifice, the relation that plays with 510 pin orientation, and other such "common sense" super powers.
Ohm's law is critical, but informing oneself of the options before slapping some 160A labeled 18650 in some random metal tube, and expecting everything to be fine because McDonald's should be liable if I spill above room temp coffee on my junk, is key.
Ohm's law is critical, but informing oneself of the options before slapping some 160A labeled 18650 in some random metal tube, and expecting everything to be fine because McDonald's should be liable if I spill above room temp coffee on my junk, is key.
I'm still vaping exactly the way I did in 2013. Tootlepuffing my Erl @ 1.0 ohms on a mech at about 17 watts. If I did get a regulated 80+ watt mod, I'd stay at about the same wattage. I do have rda's for occasional sub ohm vaping, I could see where high wattage regulated mods would be more appropriate. There wasn't all that much of that in 2013, so mechs were the way to go.
And that style of vaping satisfies you, and probably most of the adult vaping community.
Just to see if the grass was indeed more blue, I threw a high ohm build on my mech.
28g*2+38g ss316l 2.5mm ID, 6.5 wraps. Ohm's out at a "safe" 0.38 and feels like my usual builds when I need to charge the battery. If I puff long enough, I get a mildly satisfying warmish puff, but the wick starts to scorch due to too little air flow. IDK, maybe I don't know how to MTL properly.
A fused Clapton might have an "acceptable" resistance but it's a good amount of metal and it will heat up slowly and cool slowly. Using it in an atty with little airflow will result in a pretty hot coil that as you found got sorta dry after a few hits. Good performance is the right build for the right atty that's in an "acceptably" safe zone. I know you know that, but a first time vaper likely doesn't because they're still figuring out what they even like in the first place
It's totally personal preference, but I like those little 22 mm single coil " flavor bangers". If I jammed a fused Clapton in one of those it may be safe, but not very satisfying. That's a problem that a mech comes with. If your build isn't right you can't coax it along with a little wattage tweaking. If you don't like it, you have to start over.
I should have specified I use 26g kanthal wire and coil mine at 2.4mm. I would imagine if I used different wiring like yours at 1.0 ohms, I would have a different result. Seems like a lot of mass for your coil at that ohms. So maybe that kind of build needs a regulated to give it more power.
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