I thought bare copper was a no no anyway. Where is there bare copper in our gear?
So the label lies when it says 100% silicon! No good!
So the label lies when it says 100% silicon! No good!
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Wait so you're saying fashion paper into a plug instead of the silicon....and that won't burn?
The problem is the off-gassing when it cures.
I'd go with food-grade RTV over aquarium grade.
{edit to add: See my hasty back-pedaling on this below}
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Cool, thank you. Is there a brand/source you prefer? Anything local like home depot?
Don't have a particular brand or supplier I prefer (normally I'd get it through a job and company account at an industrial supply shop).
Sears has it:
Clear Food Grade Silicone Sealant- GordonGlass-Tools-Painting & Supplies-Caulking
Though a caulk-gun size tube is a bit excessive.
Home Depot/Lowes/Ace/TrueValue might have it.
Or you can find it on Amazon.
{Edit to add}
Dow-Corning #732 should be okay:
"FDA and USDA compliant. NSF 51 certified and NSF 61 certified for use with food equipment and drinking water system"
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Man with all the time and effort we put into modding existing systems we may as well make our own mizer.
Basically it needs to have the following attributes:
-Central airflow without leaking any fluid
-Wick enclosure with extension to top of device so no leaks up top and no wick flooding
-Easy to recoil/rewick (very small alligator clips maybe)
-Nothing coming into contact with wires that can burn - silicone, solder, ect...
-Connections must be safe and always separated as to not short out the circuit - pyrex tubing maybe.
Hmmm what else...
EvilGrymm - how do you feel about aluminum - it's used for some high heat cooking and if it can contain Coke without disintegrating then it must be near impervious.
Basically it needs to have the following attributes:
-Central airflow without leaking any fluid
-Wick enclosure with extension to top of device so no leaks up top and no wick flooding
-Easy to recoil/rewick (very small alligator clips maybe)
-Nothing coming into contact with wires that can burn - silicone, solder, ect...
-Connections must be safe and always separated as to not short out the circuit - pyrex tubing maybe.
Hmmm what else...
EvilGrymm - how do you feel about aluminum - it's used for some high heat cooking and if it can contain Coke without disintegrating then it must be near impervious.
The Dap brand 100% silicone is food safe. Again though, I always try to leave 72 hours to cure. It's not the silicone that's dangerous, it's the stuff that keeps it in a flowing form. The evaporating vapors are what is toxic in any silicone out of the tube. Most is cured in two days. I definitely stay away from the fast curing as those chemicals are even more toxic. The extra day is an extra safety precaution. Especially now in Upstate NY where it's been rainy and the air is moist.
This. Whatever you use, give it adequate cure time.
And I'll retract what I said earlier, after more reading the aquarium grade is food safe.
DAP says "Safe for food contact" on their site.
Today, I learned a thing.
I do have some of the aquarium grade. Found in the glue section at Lowe's. It's loctite brand. Imagine selling anything that would seal an aquarium that would be toxic to fish. (LOL! Know anyone that is an avid aquarium keeper? I know one that smokes but god forbid they do it in their tank room.) It's clear and rubbery when cured. If you want to make a bond that is more easily removed, this one is preferred. I use it on my horizontal echo cartos where I remove the airtube to get a good dry burn or replace the coil. Eventually I will have to do it again and silicone doesn't bond well with cured silicone so the ability to pull it off in one rubbery piece is preferred. For a more permanent bond, choose the Dap out of the contractor section or the Dow brand- if you can find it. It's actually harder to find in the squeeze tube over the kind you put in the gun.
I've said it before that the silicone is safe when cured BUT I will add that I want the label to say so for my own piece of mind. Only the DOW brand, the Dab brand and the aquarium safe brand does.
I've said it before that the silicone is safe when cured BUT I will add that I want the label to say so for my own piece of mind. Only the DOW brand, the Dab brand and the aquarium safe brand does.
Good point, I hadn't thought about removability.
I can vouch for the Dow 732 being harder to remove -- one of the uses is in commercial airplane electronics.
I got some 100% cotton gauze but not sure best way to make wicks out of it. Can anyone give some pointers?
Also, has anyone tried cotton wicks for torches/candles? Not sure if they're cured/treated with anything.
Also, has anyone tried cotton wicks for torches/candles? Not sure if they're cured/treated with anything.
Just finished making a coil on a brand new RCA atty I put together. Took 4 strands and made a wick - working great @ 1.8 ohms/4.3v. Wicks much better than silica and still has a neutral taste.
Going to re-wrap with layer of SS with the wick in the center as I never had a problem with the SS taste but it doesn't wick well so I used silica in the center of the SS. This bamboo thread should do the same job just as well if not better.
Try to do as I wrote above. Make a coil, burn it without wick, then pull wick thru the coil or sew it with a needle.
Ok just for kicks, I ordered some candle wick:
Amazon.com: Cotton Square Braid Candle Wick - #1/0: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Says its "100% Natural Cotton" and "Unprimed, Lead-free". The description is: "Square braid wicks were originally designed for the viscosity of beeswax candles, however, they can still be used for soy and paraffin creations as well. Our square braid wicks are unprimed (raw) and untabbed."
Amazon.com: Cotton Square Braid Candle Wick - #1/0: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Says its "100% Natural Cotton" and "Unprimed, Lead-free". The description is: "Square braid wicks were originally designed for the viscosity of beeswax candles, however, they can still be used for soy and paraffin creations as well. Our square braid wicks are unprimed (raw) and untabbed."
About aluminium- there's a lot of al alloys (you never get pure al), few are compatible with food. I used al tube for one of my setups, and was upset. but in another setup I used al tube taken from hp laser printer cartrige, works fine, no unwanted taste or other issues.
Best source of aluminium is some cooking device I think.
Best source of aluminium is some cooking device I think.
Very interesting. Especially that viscossity of melted wax is near viscosity of e-liquid.
When I use cotton yarn I add a little water or whiskey into liquid to lower viscosity.
Aluminum is typically anodized for cooking. You dent your anodized aluminum, cause it to pit or otherwise mess up the coating, it should no longer be used. I wouldn't use aluminum in anything that is corrosive.
RockingRobbie I just want to say that I love your vids and am a big fan of yours!
Regarding the wick here's how I had success with it:
-3 strands of gauze .25 inch thick and about 4 inches long (long enough to work with when braiding)
-Twirl them tightly one at a time and give em a stretch. Do this about 5 times each until they resemble a cord sort of
-Put them together at one end and clamp to the end of the table or anywhere that enables you to braid them properly.
-Braid fairly tight but not overly tight - once the juice hits them they will sponge up
-Tie off the desired length with twirled and stretched pieces made of about an eighth of an inch thickness so it will be almost like a thread.
-Cut off excess and you know the rest.
Good luck with that and looking forward to seeing if the candle works as well!
Vape On!
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