WOOT $29.99 MOD kit found!!!

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JimmyJet

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I recommend the AW IMR 16340 as well. Super-T is my preferred battery vendor because the $1.39 shipping for batteries is great (it includes charger orders too) Electronic Cigarettes and AW batteries by Super T . I'd suggest you get at least 2 batteries.

The great thing about the AW IMR is that its a Li-Mn battery... a safe chemistry battery with a very high output of current. Enough to drive dual coils well (many other batteries can't discharge enough current). The down side of the AW IMR is they aren't protected batteries... ok for you since they don't explode when they fail, but not so great for the batteries because you can drain them too much and destroy the battery (it will stop working... won't recharge).

AW IMRs are rated at 550mah, and unlike most other vendors, thats an honest rating. So with a dual coil atomizer, you are probably drawing 2.5 amps are so... the AW IMR can put out up to 4 amps, and will drive the dual coil at its max capacity. It will only do so for about 12 minutes of actual runtime.

Be careful not to run it down to far.

Thank you tiburonfirst, jmanning, and Grimloki, this is very helpful. I definitely appreciate the math Grimloki. There's no arguing with numbers. I was 99% decided on AW IMRs and in fact already have some in the shopping cart at Super-T but was reluctant to pull the trigger without some final input.

Also one more bit of kudos to Grimloki for bringing attention to the battery safety issue in your battery rant thread. I too dabble in the R/C world and am aware of the tragedies that could have been avoided with just a little education.

Blue Skies, JJ
 

tiburonfirst

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Improper or not enough lighting is most likely the cause of the grainyness. When taking close-up pics of objects it's best to turn the camera flash off and and take the pic under strong lighting like directly under a table lamp or outside in direct sunlight.

I have a huge O-ring assortment and the one I put on there measures 19MM O.D. x 17MM I.D. It had to be stretched a little to get it on, but a 20MM O.D. seemed a little too big.

thank you, will check on available colors at advance auto or such, atm i like my blue ring but change is always good

Its grainy cause it was a dark interior shot and the digicam used high ISO, which causes noise.

yes, lighting was not the best in my kitchen when i took the pic



Tiby and I are both using 510 adapters on our sparkplugs. When you screw the adapter all the way down it pushes the brass insert further down inside the tube. When you put the battery in and then screw the bottom on it leaves a gap.

On mine, I just filed the brass insert down to compensate, but that means you can't switch back to the BE112 atomizer. I was just showing the O-ring as a non-permanent solution to the gap when using the 510 adapter.

A longer protected battery will probably cause the same problem (I don't have any yet).

and quite a few people like the performance of an 801 atty or carto. i have not tried them yet but might want to in the future

Nothing bad, you just see some threads showing under the adapter and the carto might not screw all the way down. I'm just a little obsessive compulsive and couldn't stand looking at those two issues when I knew I could do something about it.

same here, that gap, either on the bottom or at the adapter, spoiled the appearance for me. for the same reason i won't use an xl carto on the sp2, the proportions are all wrong, lol

Thank you tiburonfirst, jmanning, and Grimloki, this is very helpful. I definitely appreciate the math Grimloki. There's no arguing with numbers. I was 99% decided on AW IMRs and in fact already have some in the shopping cart at Super-T but was reluctant to pull the trigger without some final input.

Also one more bit of kudos to Grimloki for bringing attention to the battery safety issue in your battery rant thread. I too dabble in the R/C world and am aware of the tragedies that could have been avoided with just a little education.

Blue Skies, JJ

you're quite welcome, jj - one thing for sure about ecf we have lots of helpful people here. as long as you take the time to ask somebody will answer.
 

jayvolt

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I work pretty closely with MW and have to say that the sp2 is a great little item for the cash. Version 3 is soon to be released and they are trying to keep the price the same. You have plenty of options for mods to waste your money on, but if you want one that gets the job done for a price that makes you happy, go with this.
 

Stownz

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I work pretty closely with MW and have to say that the sp2 is a great little item for the cash. Version 3 is soon to be released and they are trying to keep the price the same. You have plenty of options for mods to waste your money on, but if you want one that gets the job done for a price that makes you happy, go with this.

Any info about version 3?
 

Sacker

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Generic comps vs some other mods

7a1.jpg

SP2

comparison2.jpg

Thermo

7.jpg

Blue Sp2 :D
 

JimmyJet

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I recommend the AW IMR 16340 as well. Super-T is my preferred battery vendor because the $1.39 shipping for batteries is great (it includes charger orders too) Electronic Cigarettes and AW batteries by Super T . I'd suggest you get at least 2 batteries.

<snip>

Be careful not to run it down too far.

I now have a sparkplug, 510 adapter, two AW IMR 16340s, and love this thing. Now I have another battery question.

As the unit has no led to indicate a low battery, how will I know when the battery is low? Weak vapor?

Thanks, JJ
 

Traver

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I now have a sparkplug, 510 adapter, two AW IMR 16340s, and love this thing. Now I have another battery question.

As the unit has no led to indicate a low battery, how will I know when the battery is low? Weak vapor?

Thanks, JJ

Get a cheap multimeter and check the voltage till you have a good idea of how long it takes to charge and discharge when vaping.

Fully charged it should be less than 4.2 volts. My charger charges to 4.18 a bit less isn't uncommon. Many cheap chargers will overcharge IMR batteries shortening their life span. So try take it off the charge as soon as possible and don't leave it overnight,
They should never be discharged below 2.4 volts and above 3 is more reasonable.
The good thing about them is they deliver 8C of current. Where C is the size of the battery in 550mA.
It should never discharge below
 

Traver

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You can also get a scew on meter from several places, Madvapes has them. Much more convenient just to screw it on the connector and check the voltage but its not as versatile as a multimeter as it'll only have one use.

I saw that and intend to get one with my next order from them. I haven't heard how accurate they are though.
 

tiburonfirst

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h8isgr8

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h8, see if you can find the sparkplug thread on pif [social group]. amazingly, in the last day there have been several reports of the sp2 not working. i really don't understand it ....

Well, since it it's a purely mechanical e-cig, the problem should be easy to find using logical deduction. That said, I haven't had any issues.

I just took mine apart to fiddle with it and see what could possibly cause any problems. One thing that I immediately noticed is that inside end of the "button" just barely protrudes past the nylon insert when pressed. If the battery being used has thick shrink plastic around it then it's very possible the button won't make contact with the bottom of the battery.
 

h8isgr8

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If that is really anyones problem I have an easy fix for it. I can post some pics and an explanation if anyone needs me too.

Another thing I just realized is that some protected batteries have flat bottoms (from the protection PCB) which would make the situation worse. If you notice the batteries that come with the kit have a slight bump on the bottom.
 
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