Had mine in hand in 3 days. Ordered June 25th and it was delivered June 28th. And that was from west coast to east coast.
Would It Be Goofy?
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Had mine in hand in 3 days. Ordered June 25th and it was delivered June 28th. And that was from west coast to east coast.
Thanks! I still haven't gotten a shipping notification. They shipped my batteries the same day I ordered them (Monday) and they're arriving today. So maybe they'll ship my blem today and I'm on the east coast as well.
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They're engineers, not metallurgists. No-al-ox. No Aluminum Oxidation. It's really not meant to be used on anything but aluminum. Provided the amount of zinc in it isn't going to cause a very quick galvanic reaction, but it's still not the best thing for it. It'll work, but "Does it work" & "Is it necessary" are 2 completely different questions. If someone wants to use it on their device, no skin off my back, I'm just saying I won't because it's just not necessary. I'll always have BKF handy, solely because I have thousands of dollars worth of stainless & copper in my brewery to clean & polish, it works wonders on brass plus it works great in the kitchen & bathroom as well. You just can't use it on aluminum, which isn't really a concern for vape gear, my brewery or my kitchen.
BKF will clean way beyond what iso will. Iso is just a solvent, BKF cleans with a chemical reaction that eliminates the oxidation layer along with any buildup. Even cleaning the 510 weekly with 99% Iso, I can still get that pin shinier with 1 BKF cleaning.
Noalox will make your threads smoother, but you could get the same effect with a lot of different products. You're just lubing them at that point. I find that as long as your threads are clean, just like it came from the factory (sans Noalox) they're still buttery smooth & the fine TPI makes for perfectly good conductivity. If you're set on using an electrical grease, NO-OX-ID A-special doesn't contain a zinc 'grit' & is perfectly safe for use on steel & copper. When I was looking for NO-OX-ID (couldn't remember the exact product name), I interestingly found this quote when Zen was asked about it:
Actually it has zinc, not aluminum, in it but the rest is spot on. Again, the galvanic corrosion will be small at that point, but you're still playing with fire by introducing a large cathode surface in contact with a small anode surface. If it was a small amount of steel & a large amount of zinc galvanic corrosion is still possible, but not nearly as severe nor penetration as deep.
Yeah, I've read some about the microscopic "pitting" that Noalox can cause in stainless over time..
I'm not as concerned about it as others.. For one reason, it's not like there's a huge constant surge of electricity flowing through there, like in other non-vaping applications, which would probably cause more of it..
And as you mentioned, it is a pretty slow process, regardless..
Anyway, aside from my relatively lower-voltage, higher-resistance style of vaping.. I really don't throw a bunch of Ox-Gard on it very often (pretty similar in composition to Noalox, per MSDS).. Not only should the quantity of it be very sparingly used (and a lot of that wiped away), but I think I've only done it once or twice on my 6-month-old, with another round probably due soon..
I'd probably be more concerned if somebody used huge fresh globs of it every week, week after week, on the same piece for years & years, vaping at high voltage & low resistance with more powerful batteries.. I think then that's when you start increasing the odds of something happening that's actually noticeable in performance..
As for Zen, yeah, he's a pretty smart guy.. But he doesn't know everything, even though he likes to think he does..
Anyway, I believe there's another, more expensive, harder-to-find product out there like Noalox/Ox-Gard, but made specifically for stainless.. Forget what it's called (not BKF or NO-OX-ID)...
I'm not as concerned about it as others.. For one reason, it's not like there's a huge constant surge of electricity flowing through there, like in other non-vaping applications, which would probably cause more of it..
And as you mentioned, it is a pretty slow process, regardless..
Anyway, aside from my relatively lower-voltage, higher-resistance style of vaping.. I really don't throw a bunch of Ox-Gard on it very often (pretty similar in composition to Noalox, per MSDS).. Not only should the quantity of it be very sparingly used (and a lot of that wiped away), but I think I've only done it once or twice on my 6-month-old, with another round probably due soon..
I'd probably be more concerned if somebody used huge fresh globs of it every week, week after week, on the same piece for years & years, vaping at high voltage & low resistance with more powerful batteries.. I think then that's when you start increasing the odds of something happening that's actually noticeable in performance..
As for Zen, yeah, he's a pretty smart guy.. But he doesn't know everything, even though he likes to think he does..
Anyway, I believe there's another, more expensive, harder-to-find product out there like Noalox/Ox-Gard, but made specifically for stainless.. Forget what it's called (not BKF or NO-OX-ID)...
Kind of surprised that it's been a full day since I ordered the blem device and still haven't received a shipping notification. The site says to give them 2-3 days, but when I ordered batteries on Monday, they shipped the same day.
Oh well, if I don't hear by tomorrow , I guess I'll contact them and check on my order.
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Oh well, if I don't hear by tomorrow , I guess I'll contact them and check on my order.
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Just to be clear, I wasn't following Zen's comment, I just stumbled across it when I was trying to figure out the full name of the NO-OX. I've been studying metallurgy as a hobby for the better part of 10 years. (But Zen is 100% correct in his statement... well 95% since he accidentally stated aluminum instead of zinc)
You don't need a high surge of electricity to cause the pitting to happen, it happens with it just being applied. Nothing more than basic galvanic corrosion.
The recommendation, I believe, comes more from it's anti-oxidant properties than improving the electrical connection since with Provari's amp & power limitations it doesn't need any help... provided your threads aren't all gunked up. Keep em clean & there's no real need for an electrical grease at all (btw, BKF is just a cleanser, not a grease like the other 2 products). However since most people are lazy and/or not cleaning the threads as well as they should, some sort of anti-oxidant will keep the complaints & headaches down for the repair department.
Not sure why you'd want to hunt down a more expensive, hard to find product when you can get NO-OX (also made for stainless) easily on Amazon for pretty cheaply. It's used in amateur radio where electrical connections are significantly more critical & could be supporting up to 1500w PEP. It's probably used in some other fields, I just know of it since I'm a Ham.
Anyways, like I said earlier, I don't really care if someone chooses to use it or not, I won't & it's far from necessary if you do a good job cleaning with a good product.
You don't need a high surge of electricity to cause the pitting to happen, it happens with it just being applied. Nothing more than basic galvanic corrosion.
The recommendation, I believe, comes more from it's anti-oxidant properties than improving the electrical connection since with Provari's amp & power limitations it doesn't need any help... provided your threads aren't all gunked up. Keep em clean & there's no real need for an electrical grease at all (btw, BKF is just a cleanser, not a grease like the other 2 products). However since most people are lazy and/or not cleaning the threads as well as they should, some sort of anti-oxidant will keep the complaints & headaches down for the repair department.
Not sure why you'd want to hunt down a more expensive, hard to find product when you can get NO-OX (also made for stainless) easily on Amazon for pretty cheaply. It's used in amateur radio where electrical connections are significantly more critical & could be supporting up to 1500w PEP. It's probably used in some other fields, I just know of it since I'm a Ham.
Anyways, like I said earlier, I don't really care if someone chooses to use it or not, I won't & it's far from necessary if you do a good job cleaning with a good product.
Now I feel stupid for buying some. And I'm super careful with things so I probably won't ever need it anyway. But thank you for the education.
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Waiting is the hardest part. It took almost four full business days for my blem to ship. I would give them the stated period to ship, and contact them on the 4th or 5th day if necessary.
I ordered my Satin Silver blem at about the same time Garemlin did. Got it in three days from Washington to Florida. The USPS tracking information will drive you crazy. It will show that they accepted it, then nothing until "out for delivery."
I have gone over mine with a jeweler's glass and bright light and never found a blem. It may be the color of the tube, but I can't tell without something to compare it to, and my extension cap matches perfectly....
Good luck. Remember what they say about a back-up; "two is one and one is none."
I have gone over mine with a jeweler's glass and bright light and never found a blem. It may be the color of the tube, but I can't tell without something to compare it to, and my extension cap matches perfectly....
Good luck. Remember what they say about a back-up; "two is one and one is none."
You're lucky. Tomorrow will be day 2 since ordering and I'm in FL as well. Clearly it won't be 3 days from order to my door. :-(
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If it is any help, mine made its first stop after leaving Washington in Tampa!
Maybe it will get there quick!
Don't forget, you have to sign for it! I notified my mail carrier the day before expected delivery and told her I would be home and waiting!
I'm guessing without a shipping notification, the order hasn't made it past processing. As to signing for it, I live in a condo building with a concierge and they not only sign for our packages, but they deliver them into our units and I'll find it waiting on my counter.
There are too many debates on this out there already, whether it's the vaping world, the model train world, the metal finishing world, etc.
I've heard both sides, that products like Noalox do good, and products like Noalox do harm, in cases like these..
I'm in the camp that ("sacrificial") zinc helps prevent corrosion, and also assists with conductivity, when it comes to steel-to-steel (end-cap to body)..
Which brings up the question: Is the PV's steel passivated? If not, then the steel & zinc are on the same team, more or less, and you won't be getting all that much corrosion from that interaction...
I know from personal experience, especially with the stainless-steel regulated non-ProVari, that these types of products make a world of difference, not only in the physical turning of the threading (as a lubricant), but also prevents misfires, erroneously jumping into the menu when attempting to fire & other things which are helped with improved electrical conductivity.. Others here at ECF have also experienced the same noticeable benefits with this same PV when using these products...
And with limited experience with Ox-Gard & the one ProVari that I've used it on so far, I know that at the very least, it assists with lubricating the threading, which lasts for quite a while.. A little goes a long way...
Without it, you're also risking corrosion from direct contact with moisture, or even just moisture from the air.. No matter how clean you get it with BKF or whatever else..
And applying an increased amount of electrical current can most certainly increase corrosion in certain situations...
Anyway, I think in using these products, the good far outweighs the bad.. Then again, I suppose there's a chance that in 50 years of using it on the ProVarii, I could be singing a different tune...
Do you use the BKF Soft Cleanser or the powdered stuff? Do you use iso after BKF to clean the chemicals off the 510? I'd rather not be inhaling whatever's in the BKF.
Thanks,
Powdered. Mostly because that's what I use in the brewery & I always have a bunch of it laying around. You can find it at just about any grocery store/Wally World, but I get a few things from this small locally-owned store - the manager cuts me deals on a couple items when I buy them by the case (but I have a 1 hL brewhouse which is a mountain of stainless/brass/copper to clean/polish on a regular basis - 1 can will last the average user quite a while). But also because you can change how strong it is. For heavy cleaning I work it into a paste, which also gets down into crevices to get them spotless. It's also the recommended way to use it if you get some heavy stains, like on uncoated stainless cookware. It's great on the 510 as well. It rinses very clean; keep in mind that it's designed originally for cookware.
For the 510, I sprinkle a small pile of the stuff usually on the divider between the sink basins. Grab 2 cotton swabs. Wet one end of a swab, work the BKF into almost a paste (sometimes you need to add an extra couple of drops of water). Use that to clean the 510. Use the other end of swab soaked with just plain water to thin it out & remove some of it. Wipe the connector out with a dry paper towel to remove the majority of what's left & use each end of the second swab soaked in plain water to clean out the rest. I use the paper towel in between & again when I'm done. It dilutes very quickly & easily if your initial 'paste' isn't too thick.
For the threads, I use it a little bit thicker to make sure I get down in the threads & leave it applied for a minute or so before rinsing it. Rinsing the thicker paste isn't an issue since you don't have to worry about the electronics getting wet or chemicals inside there & you don't need to be overly cautious. The cap is easy enough to dry & I hold the mod upright with the opening facing down to get the internal threads. There you can both apply & rinse with a clean cotton rag.
It's also very easy to see if you got it all or not. If it shines you got it, if there's any sort of a hazy look to it, give it another rinse. It's easier & quicker than it sounds spelled out in detail.
The one very important thing to keep in mind, keep it away from aluminum. The main ingredient, oxalic acid, will pit aluminum very badly. Not only have I heard that warning, I found out first hand when my ex decided to use it to clean an old aluminum stockpot without me knowing. I ended up having to scrap it. I don't know how many times she did it before I found out, but I saw the pitting when I pulled it out to use it one day. I'm guessing it was multiple times and/or she didn't rinse it very well.
I finally got my shipping confirmation this afternoon! I can't track it yet so I don't know if they sent it 2 day like they did with my batteries or not, but at least it's on it's way.
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