Yihi and dna chips

[kiba]

Not the dna,, the YIHI. Yihi chip 350j, is as smooth at 60 or so watts as my mechs.
The dna 200 is the only TC i've ever used that i like.

Are they worth the bucks?
Probably not..

Same, I've tried plenty of other tc mods but the dna boards with the TFR range have been the only one that is consistent for me.

Bottom line imo, if you're not going to use escribe, and don't use TC, there's no point in having one. Dna boards work just like any other chip in power mode. If you do use those things, imo it's the best option for accurate tc, currently I don't know of any other board that uses TFR range input.

Especially if you plan on using materials like SS 430 or NiFe 52.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Same, I've tried plenty of other tc mods but the DNA boards with the TFR range have been the only one that is consistent for me.

Bottom line imo, if you're not going to use escribe, and don't use TC, there's no point in having one. Dna boards work just like any other chip in power mode. If you do use those things, imo it's the best option for accurate tc, currently I don't know of any other board that uses TFR range input.

I know, but like someone said perhaps I'll get into tc if it's actually good. Also, I find most other regulated mods to be too garish and bold.edit: or they look too cheap.
I've made that mistake before.
I just want a grown up looking mod. All these touch screens and colours are a bit much.

 

[kiba]

I know, but like someone said perhaps I'll get into tc if it's actually good. Also, I find most other regulated mods to be too garish and bold.edit: or they look too cheap.
I've made that mistake before.
I just want a grown up looking mod. All these touch screens and colours are a bit much.

Agreed, I ended up building a couple of my own dna c-frames bc of this, now there are more options. One thing to think about with vaporshark though is they are not beater mods. The shark skin coating stuff comes off rather easy, ie the first time it's in your pocket with something else.

I consider mine "at home mods", all of em except for the switchbox, once the panels look like crap I'll just replace them.

For now it's OK though

Mostly bc I know from my previous ones to treat it very carefully, I don't put it in my pocket with anything else, and once I'm done vaping it, it goes right back inside the pocket.

 

[Eskie]

Agreed, I ended up building a couple of my own dna c-frames bc of this, now there are more options. One thing to think about with vaporshark though is they are not beater mods. The shark skin coating stuff comes off rather easy, ie the first time it's in your pocket with something else.

I consider mine "at home mods", all of em except for the switchbox, once the panels look like crap I'll just replace them.

For now it's OK though

Mostly bc I know from my previous ones to treat it very carefully, I don't put it in my pocket with anything else, and once I'm done vaping it, it goes right back inside the pocket.

I thought they redid the finish so it's not so easy to mar.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Agreed, I ended up building a couple of my own dna c-frames bc of this, now there are more options. One thing to think about with vaporshark though is they are not beater mods. The shark skin coating stuff comes off rather easy, ie the first time it's in your pocket with something else.

I consider mine "at home mods", all of em except for the switchbox, once the panels look like crap I'll just replace them.

For now it's OK though

Mostly bc I know from my previous ones to treat it very carefully, I don't put it in my pocket with anything else, and once I'm done vaping it, it goes right back inside the pocket.

I thought they redid the finish so it's not so easy to mar.

Yeah I thought they redid the paint, rubberised finish. I've got a beat up 40 and I like the small mod single batt mod but they don't do it nemore do they?
I wish the switch looked like the rdna 40 with a 75 watt chip though.

 

[opticruby]

I got the VS166 on the basis of the improved paint.

 

[Eskie]

Yeah I thought they redid the paint, rubberised finish. I've got a beat up 40 and I like the small mod single batt mod but they don't do it nemore do they?
I wish the switch looked like the rdna 40 with a 75 watt chip though.

There is also a new DNA 60 chip which to my knowledge is the same size as the DNA 40. Unlike the 40, it also interfaces with eScribe. Don't know how hard it would be to swap boards.

I got the VS166 on the basis of the improved paint.

I thought they corrected that. Good to know.

 

[Zutankhamun]

I got the VS166 on the basis of the improved paint.

Great. So it is definitely better now?

While we're here I have a newbie question.
Is amp draw on regs worked out by;
I=P/V?

 

[Eskie]

Great. So it is definitely better now?

While we're here I have a newbie question.
Is amp draw on regs worked out by;
I=P/V?

Yes. Most reliable voltage to use is the nominal 3.7V on typical 18650s. Or, to simplify things and it holds up pretty well with a fudge factor for battery age is 60W per battery in series. I would have no issues using a DNA 166 mod up in the 120-140W range and feeling safe (with decent batteries). Then again I never run any of my tanks even close to that, and once you're into TC, even watts kinda lose meaning.

 

[opticruby]

Great. So it is definitely better now?

While we're here I have a newbie question.
Is amp draw on regs worked out by;
I=P/V?

As far as I'm led to belive its ALOT better but TBH I dont give it chance to find out, I treat it with kid-gloves.

I=P/V is fine to use or:
Watts (+10%)/mod cutoff voltage, is what I tend to use.

 

[KenD]

I have the Wismec Reuleaux with both DNA200 and Joyetech chips and I actually prefer the latter.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

Yes. Most reliable voltage to use is the nominal 3.7V on typical 18650s. Or, to simplify things and it holds up pretty well with a fudge factor for battery age is 60W per battery in series. I would have no issues using a DNA 166 mod up in the 120-140W range and feeling safe (with decent batteries). Then again I never run any of my tanks even close to that, and once you're into TC, even watts kinda lose meaning.

For optimal safety the cutoff voltage should be used in the calculations and the chip efficiency should be taken into account. For example, while 20-amp batteries are good up to about 60w/battery on most mods the low cutoff of the Smok Alien means that 20-amp batteries shouldn't be used higher than about 53w/battery on it.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[opticruby]

Great. So it is definitely better now?

While we're here I have a newbie question.
Is amp draw on regs worked out by;
I=P/V?

In escribe you can set the amp-limits for your batts anyways, also on DNA200 (133) and DNA250 (166), boards you can set the cell discharge curve and cell cutoff.

So really DNA boards can be set to the battery more, unlike other boards (excluding YH-HI chips, AFAIK).

 

[jPhilly215]

Vaporess's new omni chip is pretty dam good at everything . You can control the ramp ups of Watts and Temp right form the unit on the go . So basically the Tarot pro , Attitude , Tarot nano , nebula all have it . Im assuming anything built last few months as well. The only thing that does not keep me 100% Vaporesso is the power . THere highest mod atm is 160w and the wife took it . All chips have there strengths as I have dna 200 , Yihi 350 , omni , clones , smokes , AOtech . going on 20 regulated mods and a handful of mechs

 

[Zutankhamun]

Yes. Most reliable voltage to use is the nominal 3.7V on typical 18650s. Or, to simplify things and it holds up pretty well with a fudge factor for battery age is 60W per battery in series. I would have no issues using a DNA 166 mod up in the 120-140W range and feeling safe (with decent batteries). Then again I never run any of my tanks even close to that, and once you're into TC, even watts kinda lose meaning.

Ok, because i dont use them ive lost track of it all.
The vaporshark 166 is a series circuit right?
So that means that you only have the amp rating of the one battery?
So wattage at 120 with two 25rs would still make a draw of 32 Amps when its only a 20 Amp battery.

Im confused. Help

 

[Eskie]

Ok, because i dont use them ive lost track of it all.
The vaporshark 166 is a series circuit right?
So that means that you only have the amp rating of the one battery?
So wattage at 120 with two 25rs would still make a draw of 32 Amps when its only a 20 Amp battery.

Im confused. Help

In series you have ~7.4V (2X3.7V) so it's 120/7.4=16A from each.

 

[Zutankhamun]

In series you have ~7.4V (2X3.7V) so it's 120/7.4=16A from each.

Ok, thanks. Im just totally lost on dual boxes though.
Ive turned my sigelei 150 on yesterday which is also series.
Why is it reading the voltage at 3.8 when the battery is only at 84%?
Do you just double the voltage?
I'm just watching pegasus vaping academy to get to grips with all this.

Tubular mechs are so easy compared with this
Hard to believe ppl find them so scary.

 

[Eskie]

I'd assume that is the voltage per cell (I don't have a Sig 150, but that's how lots of other mods I have work). The percent charge may not always be accurate as the mod/board has no way to really "know" what sort of battery you put in, only the voltage, and not the mAh. With a DNA mod you can set precisely how many watt hours your batteries actually supply, and even run a battery analyzer to refine it even further so the battery charge indicator and % charge is as accurate as possible.

 

[Zutankhamun]

I'd assume that is the voltage per cell (I don't have a Sig 150, but that's how lots of other mods I have work). The percent charge may not always be accurate as the mod/board has no way to really "know" what sort of battery you put in, only the voltage, and not the mAh. With a DNA mod you can set precisely how many watt hours your batteries actually supply, and even run a battery analyzer to refine it even further so the battery charge indicator and % charge is as accurate as possible.

Ok thanks for your help. I'll watch this and read some more and hopefully have an idea of what I'm doing.
It's weird how I've flipped sides though.

With a mech;
Just look after your battery, put it in the mod, build well, don't build too low, check your build on an ohmreader and away you go.

Now computers are getting involved in the mix!
It's only been less than a year on the mechs and I feel so lost with these boxes. That's only two batteries!
I hear there's a quad box now too!

It's like day one. Again.

 

[Eskie]

One thing about these regulated mods, especially for the multi-battery ones where you do have more power in the box, is they do sorta protect you from doing stupid stuff. With a mech, it's you, your calculator, and your ohm meter to assure you're not only getting the vape temp you want but also do so safely. With a regulated mod resistance isn't nearly as important (as long as you're in the range of the board) and you just dial your power/temperature to whatever you want and you're done.