how are those stock 1600mah unbranded kit batteries? are they IMR? Does the YJ shutdown itself at low battery? The indicator function would be pretty nice feature if it worked for you guys
how are those stock 1600mah unbranded kit batteries? are they IMR? Does the YJ shutdown itself at low battery? The indicator function would be pretty nice feature if it worked for you guys
I've purchased and built dozens of battery holders.Almost all are basically cheap electronic junk pieces that are way overpriced.Chuck, I don't think the reviews you heard on here were not honest. We're just imparting our experiences. I've had only one week with my LT so I haven't had it as long as Bill. I hope I don't run into the trouble he has. It's possible Bill just had bad luck with his. It happens. But it is nice to hear his experience so it can be weighed against all the other people's reviews when making a purchasing decision.
I run my YJ around 3.5 to 3.8 most of the time and a 2000 mah bat in it will last all day and still have power left over.
Finally got comfortable with this and the Novas. 3.7V with a 2.5ohm head. Guess the battery indicator just drops to one bar quickly and then it stays there forever. Still same battery I put in yesterday morning and just going and going.
Plastidipping the thing today.
Been running RBA's at 1.8 ohm and 3.7v and it works fine. Everything else is 2.5ohm or so. Have to stay under 4.1v though.
The Plasti-dip coating worked well enough. No more clammy, oily, slippery feeling in hand. Prolly should have roughed up the surface first as the coating sticks to itself and not so much the smooth chrome of the mod so it can sorta peel away at the edges.
Cleaned with soap and water followed by acetone. Taped off the top ring, took off the base and sprayed away. Four coats separated by an hour each. Cut around the button and peeled it off - mistake. The button is soft cheesy coated plastic and now has rough cut marks from the exacto. Cut away the window, looked at the little power and volt buttons and noticed that you can still see the -+ and power markings. Cool! Stuck a battery in and the coated buttons work perfectly! Shoulda left the main button coated.
Only flaws are at the sharp edge at the battery cover. Oh well. Like it much better this way.
Battery life on the Young June: fresh batt at 9:00am. It's a Saturday, so I used it heavily all day until 10:30 when it flashed and shut down. That's pretty good. It was showing 1 bar since about 5-6 o'clock and running strong with that. That tells me that GT and Bronze are right about batt life and how it relates to the indicator. I've read on other threads about folks having to charge these after just 3-4 hours. I feel they MAY be going on the indicator, instead of letting the YJ tell you when the voltage drops too low to power the unit.
I also took a cue from other posts that say the YJ should be run between 3.5 - 3.8 volts. I ran it at 3.6 most of the day. great performance with 3 juices I tried. Running 2.8ohm attys in all cases.
I'm told that the YJ LT handles LR attys and dual coils in a way that limits output, specifically that it will only fire at about 3.6 volts on these, no matter where you set the voltage. Apparently this is a safety feature of these, and can't be overcome in order to drive dual coils or LRs. So, in order to take advantage of any VV vaping, one needs to use SR attys and carts. Low resistance are limited and will not give any VV advantage. I tested this theory n a LR Vivi head, and got no difference in vape on any setting. Just FYI. I'd like to hear anyone else's experience, but that's mine. I've been using 2.8 Vivi Nova heads all day, and they have no such issue. You will get a burnt taste if you take it up into the mid-four volt range, considering how these wick and that they are top coils.