Young June - First Week Impression

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Bronze

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how are those stock 1600mah unbranded kit batteries? are they IMR? Does the YJ shutdown itself at low battery? The indicator function would be pretty nice feature if it worked for you guys

The stock battery that came with my Young June Lavatube kit are ICR18650's, 2200mah. As I said in my review, I get aprox 10 - 11 hours of moderate to heavy vaping. I vape aproximately 5-1/2 mLs per day to give you an idea. I figure that comes to about 3.0 - 3.25 mLs of juice per charge at about 7.0 watts +/- 0.2 watts. Yes, the mod shuts down when the battery can no longer operate at the voltage necessay to deliver a good vape. I like that feature as my last pull is the same as my first pull. As for the battery bar function...I don't really care. It would be nice to have it be more precise, but in the end I couldn't care less.
 

chuckie

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Chuck, I don't think the reviews you heard on here were not honest. We're just imparting our experiences. I've had only one week with my LT so I haven't had it as long as Bill. I hope I don't run into the trouble he has. It's possible Bill just had bad luck with his. It happens. But it is nice to hear his experience so it can be weighed against all the other people's reviews when making a purchasing decision.
I've purchased and built dozens of battery holders.Almost all are basically cheap electronic junk pieces that are way overpriced.
In defense of the LT,I have one that still works after 6 mos. I don't use it much anymore because it's extremely underpowered,but it does still work.
I wish you luck with yours.PM me in 3-4 months and let me know how it's holding up.
 

Pappy

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I've got the stainless steel Apollo VTube, which is the LRider version. It does not have the battery life bar, and it does not show the resistance of the atty/carto attached. I think it has two advantages: (1) six clicks of the on/off button shows your battery voltage remaining (much more accurate than the bar icon on the YJ version; and (2) the battery life (at least on mine) is great. An 18650 lasts all day and usually is only down to about 3.8volts when I take it out and put it on the charger (and put another one in). I'm using the Panasonic CGR 2200mah 18650 batteries.

On the LRider version like I have, I read somewhere that there is a button sequence that will show the resistance, but I've forgotten what it was. I don't care much because I just adjust the voltage up or down to suit whatever I'm vaping. I usually start off at 4.0 - 4.2 and go up or down from there.
 

LeftCoastVaper

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I've had a black chrome Young June LT for a few weeks now, and until today I hated it. Went through batts like a, well, bat out of hell. Called Kevin at free-cigs.com to whine, and he suggested I turn the volts waaaay down and try again. Sure enough, if I take a full volt off my normal vape setting, it works like a charm. Where I used to vape at around 4.2-4-6v, I now use 3.2-3.6v. Unlike the L-Rider version, you really need to crank these things down, or you'll end up with a bunch of burned cartos/attys and a very frustrating experience. Word to the less than wise (like me).
 
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Bronze

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I run my YJ around 3.5 to 3.8 most of the time and a 2000 mah bat in it will last all day and still have power left over.

That's pretty much my range too Ghost...depending on what kind of resistance my atty is throwing out. I'm finding HHV juice can start to burn at lower wattages than other juices I vape. If I have a 2.5ohm or above clearo, Sometimes I go to 4.0 volts. But rarely over that.
 

icepoet

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OK, I thought I'd get to know this unit through a little Friday evening activity, watching my daughter ride her bike with the neighbor kids, then watched a movie with my favorite beverage. My YJ LT is the black chrome (does feel a little slick), which came with a couple attys, a DCT, and a nice zippered semi-hard shell case. The batteries a blue flat-tops, ICR18650 2200mah which came mostly charged. I have a 3.5ml Vivi Nova, so I popped in a 2.8 ohm head and filled it with my white horsey juice :D.

I agree with Bronze and Z-Ghost, 3.5 - 3.8 volts seems plenty. I cranked it up over 4, maybe up to 4.5, but the wicking couldn't keep up an I got some burnt hits. Lowered the voltage and it's all good. Hits well, good flavor. I should mention that the screen is reading the atty at 2.7ohms.

In general I really like it so far. It does seem to have a couple of quirks I noticed right off the bat. It will occasionally misfire, as in, pressing the button does nothing. I've read that these do this sometimes. I'll have to keep an eye on that. Also, and this may be more of a Vivi Nova top coil issue, it will occasionally sputter and spit out hot juice - ouch! Like I said, maybe a Vivi issue with a higher voltage APV. It should be noted that this is on a setting of 3.6v. Other than those things, my LT hits like a freight train. Awesome, quite a step up from a standard ego batt.

I can't speak to battery life yet, although I can say that I used it all evening, and although the battery indicator dropped quickly (I think it may have been down to 1 bar at the end of the night), it was still hitting great when I shut it off and went to bed. I'm starting off today with a fresh battery, so we'll see how that goes.

Oh, did I say this thing is a fog machine! :vapor:
 

gthompson

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By the way, I'm pretty sure your battery indicators are fine, I think it's more a function of the battery itself. I don't have a battery indicator like that, but mine will tell me the volts left in the battery. It goes from 4.1v (full charge) down to about 3.7v in no time. Then it takes forever to drop down to 3.5v. Based on what I've read, the YJ cuts off once it drops below 3.5v. This fits what you guys are describing.

It's probably pretty hard to "instruct" an indicator to understand that behavior.
 

Bronze

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Finally got comfortable with this and the Novas. 3.7V with a 2.5ohm head. Guess the battery indicator just drops to one bar quickly and then it stays there forever. Still same battery I put in yesterday morning and just going and going.

Plastidipping the thing today.

Give us a blow by blow account of your Plasti Dip experience.
 

Scott Dernbach

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I ordered one of the Lambo V2 (Same boards as the Lavatubes) from MFS, and I have noticed the new YJ circuitry is running way too hot! I have been using the Kanger T2s exclusively on a Varitube X with no problems, but as soon as I use them on the new Lambo everything burns (Even at the 3V settings). I was using low res attys and the regular attys on it but still no change. I had a few tanks that I installed 3 ohm Smok cartos in and all is well from 3v - 6v....Do I now need to find 3 ohm replacement heads in order to go back to my beloved Kangers? If so, can anyone tell me who would have the 3+ ohm replacement heads?

Thanks!
 

bappo

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Been running RBA's at 1.8 ohm and 3.7v and it works fine. Everything else is 2.5ohm or so. Have to stay under 4.1v though.

The Plasti-dip coating worked well enough. No more clammy, oily, slippery feeling in hand. Prolly should have roughed up the surface first as the coating sticks to itself and not so much the smooth chrome of the mod so it can sorta peel away at the edges.

Cleaned with soap and water followed by acetone. Taped off the top ring, took off the base and sprayed away. Four coats separated by an hour each. Cut around the button and peeled it off - mistake. The button is soft cheesy coated plastic and now has rough cut marks from the exacto. Cut away the window, looked at the little power and volt buttons and noticed that you can still see the -+ and power markings. Cool! Stuck a battery in and the coated buttons work perfectly! Shoulda left the main button coated.

Only flaws are at the sharp edge at the battery cover. Oh well. Like it much better this way.
 

icepoet

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Battery life on the Young June: fresh batt at 9:00am. It's a Saturday, so I used it heavily all day until 10:30 when it flashed and shut down. That's pretty good. It was showing 1 bar since about 5-6 o'clock and running strong with that. That tells me that GT and Bronze are right about batt life and how it relates to the indicator. I've read on other threads about folks having to charge these after just 3-4 hours. I feel they MAY be going on the indicator, instead of letting the YJ tell you when the voltage drops too low to power the unit.

I also took a cue from other posts that say the YJ should be run between 3.5 - 3.8 volts. I ran it at 3.6 most of the day. great performance with 3 juices I tried. Running 2.8ohm attys in all cases.

I'm told that the YJ LT handles LR attys and dual coils in a way that limits output, specifically that it will only fire at about 3.6 volts on these, no matter where you set the voltage. Apparently this is a safety feature of these, and can't be overcome in order to drive dual coils or LRs. So, in order to take advantage of any VV vaping, one needs to use SR attys and carts. Low resistance are limited and will not give any VV advantage. I tested this theory n a LR Vivi head, and got no difference in vape on any setting. Just FYI. I'd like to hear anyone else's experience, but that's mine. I've been using 2.8 Vivi Nova heads all day, and they have no such issue. You will get a burnt taste if you take it up into the mid-four volt range, considering how these wick and that they are top coils.
 

Bronze

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Been running RBA's at 1.8 ohm and 3.7v and it works fine. Everything else is 2.5ohm or so. Have to stay under 4.1v though.

The Plasti-dip coating worked well enough. No more clammy, oily, slippery feeling in hand. Prolly should have roughed up the surface first as the coating sticks to itself and not so much the smooth chrome of the mod so it can sorta peel away at the edges.

Cleaned with soap and water followed by acetone. Taped off the top ring, took off the base and sprayed away. Four coats separated by an hour each. Cut around the button and peeled it off - mistake. The button is soft cheesy coated plastic and now has rough cut marks from the exacto. Cut away the window, looked at the little power and volt buttons and noticed that you can still see the -+ and power markings. Cool! Stuck a battery in and the coated buttons work perfectly! Shoulda left the main button coated.

Only flaws are at the sharp edge at the battery cover. Oh well. Like it much better this way.

Very cool! I was thinking of roughing up the finish first too. Thought I might like that enough as is. Do you think I'd be better off masking the fire button? What do you suspect happened at the sharp edge at the battery cover? Any chance you can post a photo? Glad you like the results.
 

Bronze

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Battery life on the Young June: fresh batt at 9:00am. It's a Saturday, so I used it heavily all day until 10:30 when it flashed and shut down. That's pretty good. It was showing 1 bar since about 5-6 o'clock and running strong with that. That tells me that GT and Bronze are right about batt life and how it relates to the indicator. I've read on other threads about folks having to charge these after just 3-4 hours. I feel they MAY be going on the indicator, instead of letting the YJ tell you when the voltage drops too low to power the unit.

I also took a cue from other posts that say the YJ should be run between 3.5 - 3.8 volts. I ran it at 3.6 most of the day. great performance with 3 juices I tried. Running 2.8ohm attys in all cases.

I'm told that the YJ LT handles LR attys and dual coils in a way that limits output, specifically that it will only fire at about 3.6 volts on these, no matter where you set the voltage. Apparently this is a safety feature of these, and can't be overcome in order to drive dual coils or LRs. So, in order to take advantage of any VV vaping, one needs to use SR attys and carts. Low resistance are limited and will not give any VV advantage. I tested this theory n a LR Vivi head, and got no difference in vape on any setting. Just FYI. I'd like to hear anyone else's experience, but that's mine. I've been using 2.8 Vivi Nova heads all day, and they have no such issue. You will get a burnt taste if you take it up into the mid-four volt range, considering how these wick and that they are top coils.

Interesting about the LR attys. I know I put a very low resistance head on and I could not get it to fire at the voltage I had it set at (can't remember what it was). I turned the volts down and then it fired. They have that max amperage feature that will prevent the unit to fire if the amps are too high. I forget the cutoff. I believe I've heard 2.5 amps and 4.0 amps. I'll believe 2.5 before 4.0. I've always gone on the rule of thumb that says you want to keep your stuff at 2.0 amps or below to protect equipment deterioration. Glad it is working out so far Ice.
 
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