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First attempt at posting a pic. To do over I would not mask the fire button and leave the coating on. On the bottom, the dip did not stick well enough to the chrome and very well to itself which causes it to lift or curl away from the tube when fiddling with your hand/fingers.
You could be right. I'll have to dig a little more. The owner's manual (pamphlet) that came with my Lavatube might be, perhaps, the worst manual I have ever received in my life. Not only was it utterly lacking in information, it was written as if it started in Chinese and was put into one of those worthless online language translators.
That looks really good bappo.
The sad part is the chrome versions are $10-$15 extra and you guys are covering it up.
The sad part is the chrome versions are $10-$15 extra and you guys are covering it up.
First attempt at posting a pic. To do over I would not mask the fire button and leave the coating on. On the bottom, the dip did not stick well enough to the chrome and very well to itself which causes it to lift or curl away from the tube when fiddling with your hand/fingers.
Very cool! And thanks for getting the photo. I like it!
As for the limited battery life problem, it might well be that the display on the lavatube is actually showing you a much lower voltage than the mod is putting through.
It was found recently that the equipment normally used to test the output voltage is not well suited to measure pulse voltage. Pulse is about providing high voltage in short bursts, and apparently averaging on and off time is the wrong way of figuring out the equivalent continuous voltage, as it grossly underestimates the real output. So, you might be setting it at 3.5 and getting the equivalent of say 4.3 on a non pulse mod.
However, the chinese know people test and review stuff on a certain kind of equipment, so they have set the electronics so to look spot-on. After all, bad reviews sink sales.
Not sure how this affect the amp draw, but might well explain the problem.
Amps on young june should be around 2.5, bit like a provari, so ok with 1.5 ohm or higher at highish voltage. I think the auto cutoff was mainly a pain with the classic lavatube with only 1.5 amp limit.
However, if you don't put good batteries there is just so much the mod can do to get the required amps, efest , aw, panasonic or other tested to perform well at 2amps or more constant draw.
Incidentally, I have read a retailer got told by the producer that it the new LT version he is stocking (dubbed 4.0, like the gripper vv, not sure if the producer is young june) can run 1ohm atties, so it should be around a 4 amp limit.
Still to see any review confirming that.
Just my 2 cents..
Sent from my SK17i using Tapatalk 2
It was found recently that the equipment normally used to test the output voltage is not well suited to measure pulse voltage. Pulse is about providing high voltage in short bursts, and apparently averaging on and off time is the wrong way of figuring out the equivalent continuous voltage, as it grossly underestimates the real output. So, you might be setting it at 3.5 and getting the equivalent of say 4.3 on a non pulse mod.
However, the chinese know people test and review stuff on a certain kind of equipment, so they have set the electronics so to look spot-on. After all, bad reviews sink sales.
Not sure how this affect the amp draw, but might well explain the problem.
Amps on young june should be around 2.5, bit like a provari, so ok with 1.5 ohm or higher at highish voltage. I think the auto cutoff was mainly a pain with the classic lavatube with only 1.5 amp limit.
However, if you don't put good batteries there is just so much the mod can do to get the required amps, efest , aw, panasonic or other tested to perform well at 2amps or more constant draw.
Incidentally, I have read a retailer got told by the producer that it the new LT version he is stocking (dubbed 4.0, like the gripper vv, not sure if the producer is young june) can run 1ohm atties, so it should be around a 4 amp limit.
Still to see any review confirming that.
Just my 2 cents..
Sent from my SK17i using Tapatalk 2
bap, I wonder if a slightly longer flash time between coats would have helped to make it stick on itself a little better.
I don't remember who, but someone that used Plasti Dip said you need to let it dry a full 4 hours between coats.
I think you're right. Lighter first coat, wait longer, light second coat. Give it a long time to set before real coatings.
GT, the feel of the cold chrome in hand is horrible! Kept feeling like my tank was leaking all over the side to the point where I tried to dry it a few times.
Oh, I can't wait four hours between coats! I suffer from old man ADD
GT, the feel of the cold chrome in hand is horrible! Kept feeling like my tank was leaking all over the side to the point where I tried to dry it a few times.
Oh, I can't wait four hours between coats! I suffer from old man ADD
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That was some guy on another LT thread. That was just what he did. Might be some validity to it. I ran a paint shop back in the early 90's and you had to be careful when recoating to allow enough flash time between coats.
I think you're right. Lighter first coat, wait longer, light second coat. Give it a long time to set before real coatings.
GT, the feel of the cold chrome in hand is horrible! Kept feeling like my tank was leaking all over the side to the point where I tried to dry it a few times.
Oh, I can't wait four hours between coats! I suffer from old man ADD
I don't like that chrome finish at all for the reasons you point out. It simply is not functional.
Yes it does (without the finger smudges anyway). That black with chrome trim aint half bad either. What kind of finish do you have on your older LT GT? You told me but I forgot.
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