magnets definitely work in allum, I've used them in other hybrids that are allum. although I preferred the springs because it was more stable.
And... Hey!
Good to see you.
magnets definitely work in allum, I've used them in other hybrids that are allum. although I preferred the springs because it was more stable.
And... Hey!
Good to see you.
Magnets were in my AlumiZen Standard.
And they should work in any Zen. Will they work in the SideWinder?
Interestingly, I tried them in my BAM and couldn't get it to fire. I'm sure it's something I did/didn't do.
My standard still has the magnets (that's how it came from the classifieds) and works great but is a little wobbly. I assume that's from the magnets?Mike had those springs made to his specifications. He had to order 10,000 to get them exactly like he wanted them as they were not stock springs. Just saying, there must have been a reason he went to all that trouble and expense...........
Good morning, everyone.
You really don't need to replace any parts. It isn't going to increase conductivity, contrary to popular belief. The bridge and the device itself are still aluminum and the device is only going to conduct as well as aluminum does. You're going to find that lots of people like to chase the best possible performance and there's nothing wrong with that but brass parts in an aluminum device are not going to make the vape any better.
There was another member who did a co-op for brass parts to the sidewinder and metered the voltage under load. Firing under load, he was only getting 3.6X volts. My completely unmodified sidewinder, exactly how it came from Zen fires at 3.7X volts under load. If your device isn't firing right, something is usually going on with the coil.
Another thing to consider is that the nylon nut that secures the long screw in the atomizer is a one-time use piece. Once tightened, it crushes and if it is reused, you run the risk of a dead short which is very dangerous.
kiba, what we are trying to say is that while you are free to make any modifications to your APVs that you want, advocating all these changes to Zen's design affects the safety of the APV and not all new people are aware of that fact.
Zenesis devices, as they are sold, are among the very safest APVs made. A lot of thought and planning went into the design to make that so. You are changing the underlying dynamics that make Zenesis devices so safe.
Mike is a very innovative APV designer. He puts a lot of thought and knowledge into his designs, always with safety in the forefront of his mind. They are not ecigs thrown together for the money to be made.
Anyone making modifications to the Zens are doing so at their own risk. You are turning your Zens into 'not Zens'.........
This topic has been beaten to death. It's just like with stripping the anodizing off of the sidewinder threads. One minute, you say you think it hits better, then you say it's probably the same, then you post it up for sale claiming that stripping the threads increases conductivity.
I don't think anyone is trying to start a fight (I really am not). There are people that genuinely believe that a brass screw will make an aluminum pv hit harder. You are free to believe and try whatever you please. There are people that don't agree with that assessment. As mentioned before, there are always new people reading this thread and they see pictures of someone exclaiming how fantastic their device is with a piece of brass added to it. If you choose to post that up, that's fine but you can't expect others not to post reasoning they disagree so that the new user can make an informed decision as to whether that is something they should do.
With regards to the plastic nut on top of the atomizer, it is a crush nut. It is not intended to be reused. If it crushes enough, the metal post can make contact with the top surface of the atomizer and cause a dead short.
Just because you can remove the brakes from a car and engine brake to stop doesn't mean it's safe or a good idea.
Please don't take offense, I'm not trying to be snide or rude, just clarifying.
)... modders changing their devices to the way they want it inspires innovation, and I will ALWAYS encourage that. I know enough about conductivity, I really don't need you telling me what to learn, kthx. And there was no bashing anywhere. I tried to make it very clear that that isn't what this is about.andy kiba isn't talking about the aluminum of a sidwinder...he is talking about the ss screws and such....which infact do make a huge difference. ss imparts voltage loss...no matter how you look at it...brass, a hell of a lot less. please learn about conductivity before you bash a very knowledgable person. and i myself could not get my bam to hit at all till i stripped the threads....you can't get conductivity through anodizing. remember electricity flows over metal not through it.

Good morning everyone...isn't this the part where someone comes on & posts a recipe for PIE?
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I'm not a new vaper but relatively new to RBA's. I use the 32g Kanthal and wicks that came with my Zens. I have a supply at this point to last quite a long time so not looking into making any changes yet. I think another thing we need to remember about the clouds of vapor...it really depends on the juice you are using. I can load up a 100% VG juice and fill my office with vapor if I want to. I try to take my time when wrapping a new coil to ensure it seems to be working properly and is within the ohm range I want. I'm learning what to check if I get a harsh hit or metal taste..most of the time if I just ensure the wick isn't touching the bottom of the tank and lightly adjust my coils all is good to go again. I think somethings the coil get's bumped when I remove the cap to fill the tank. Not sure why I'm rambling..just am![]()


At some point, there will be a quartz tank available for the Sidewinder, right now, making a tank IMO wouldn't be helpful as the top portion of the tank contains the treading for the top cap. Not sure how you'd be able to make that work (top cap remain stable) with a glass tank under it.
Maybe some o-rings of the right size, but not sure.
You may want to try fitting the top cap without the standard SW tank on it to see what you can do before going through the effort of getting a custom tank cut.
I really do like the metal tank myself and likely will personally stick with it regardless of future offerings as the Sidewinder really is my work horse. The form factor and durability of the anodizing + the metal tank and threaded cap really make the thing virtually indestructible.
Good morning everyone...isn't this the part where someone comes on & posts a recipe for PIE?
![]()
Good morning everyone...isn't this the part where someone comes on & posts a recipe for PIE?
![]()