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goldcoastmat

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And... Hey!
Good to see you.

heya unfettered hows all?

magnets from what I understand are the same as the "other" hybrid I'm not sure how kosher it is to mention the name in this thread (hint see under my name to the left :p) just not wanting to cause any waves due to location. Much respect for the thread and the product it's here to promote. Great mods by both.
 

andyman97

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Magnets were in my AlumiZen Standard.
And they should work in any Zen. Will they work in the SideWinder?

Interestingly, I tried them in my BAM and couldn't get it to fire. I'm sure it's something I did/didn't do.

The only pv I've used magnets in has been my Ti mini. Something I noticed with the BAM was that the delrin was too tight on the post and the switch took serious muscle to fire. In order for the magnets to work, the switch post needs to make contact with the metal in the switch body. The springs take that out of the equation. The spring is what's making ground contact from the base of the switch post to the metal side of the switch body which is why there is no reason to strip anodizing off of the switch post.
 

Iowa Gal

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Well after sleeping on it I've decided to not invest in a Cobalt. My true desire should be at vapebash then the Zen II is just a few months down the road. I'm just going to get a blue carbon fiber wrap for my standard:laugh: My standard still has the magnets (that's how it came from the classifieds) and works great but is a little wobbly. I assume that's from the magnets?
 

kiba

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Mike had those springs made to his specifications. He had to order 10,000 to get them exactly like he wanted them as they were not stock springs. Just saying, there must have been a reason he went to all that trouble and expense...........

its not my sidewinder, the guy I;m doing it for, it wasnt hitting right, bc of stuff the previous owner had done, so he sent it to me to fix, and while fixing it he wanted a full brass upgrade and all the ano stripped from the threads and body, and polished... and he wanted to use 28awg kanthal, thats what I use too and those springs just dont work for that gauge.

Good morning, everyone.



You really don't need to replace any parts. It isn't going to increase conductivity, contrary to popular belief. The bridge and the device itself are still aluminum and the device is only going to conduct as well as aluminum does. You're going to find that lots of people like to chase the best possible performance and there's nothing wrong with that but brass parts in an aluminum device are not going to make the vape any better.

There was another member who did a co-op for brass parts to the sidewinder and metered the voltage under load. Firing under load, he was only getting 3.6X volts. My completely unmodified sidewinder, exactly how it came from Zen fires at 3.7X volts under load. If your device isn't firing right, something is usually going on with the coil.

Another thing to consider is that the nylon nut that secures the long screw in the atomizer is a one-time use piece. Once tightened, it crushes and if it is reused, you run the risk of a dead short which is very dangerous.

i have to disaggree on the brass thing, if the voltage was going up at all for him that is proof right there. I tested my SW before and after the brass parts, and as I added each part, and could watch the voltage under load increase each time... todd did an awesome review on the sidewinder he upgraded with brass parts where he tested it throuroughly and there were very obvious gains, besides that SS is known to be a bad conductor, numbers aside i have had noticeable differences in vapor production in both my ZAG/GG and SW once upgraded to brass, just sayin... also the nylon nut, there are two insulators seperating it from the body at the top and bottom of the atty, but I can see what youre saying if it was ripped completely out on either side, but I have taken those bolts out of quite a few SW's and ZAG's and never seen the top nylon part move or come free, the bottom one slides, but has a lip that holds it in place....

kiba, what we are trying to say is that while you are free to make any modifications to your APVs that you want, advocating all these changes to Zen's design affects the safety of the APV and not all new people are aware of that fact.

Zenesis devices, as they are sold, are among the very safest APVs made. A lot of thought and planning went into the design to make that so. You are changing the underlying dynamics that make Zenesis devices so safe.

Mike is a very innovative APV designer. He puts a lot of thought and knowledge into his designs, always with safety in the forefront of his mind. They are not ecigs thrown together for the money to be made.

Anyone making modifications to the Zens are doing so at their own risk. You are turning your Zens into 'not Zens'.........

I dont beleive I am making them unsafe in any way if you mean the spring, its the same spring used in another hybrid that is insured and will give the owner the ability to use the gauge kanthal that he wants to use, as is his right as the owner, the bolt, I dont think removing it is unsafe, i actually think NOT removing it is more unsafe as juice tends to get down through it and drip on the battery if you dont remove it and clean it every once in a while, as many zenesis owners have noticed. I was asked to do this as the device wasnt working properly to begin with (which btw was the previous owners fault as the bridge was corroded). as you know there are plenty of pv's/hybrids that come with the 'modifications' that I have added.

jeez i just wanted to share a couple pics with freinds, not start a fight? everyone here knows i like to tinker with stuff lol :p why does there have to be such a problem with modifying zen devices? anyways I modify all my stuff, not just the zens. modifying something isnt saying that its bad at all, or i just wouldnt bother to buy it or modify it in the first place, mike himself said that he modifies everything he owns.
 
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dearme

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kiba, I don't want to fight either. I think you have a perfect right to do anything to your APVs that you want.

What I was saying is that what you do or change in your devices may, or may not, be right for everyone, especially new RBA users who might not know the ins and outs of the changes.

You are a fiddler and that's great, but for the newcomers, fiddling without knowledge of the consequences is why we have some people vaping at .5 ohms.........

I am not saying that what you are doing might cause that to happen, but I also think it's important for new vapers to know that not everything done by experienced vapers should be done by everybody.

Speaking in general, on forums, just because it's in print, doesn't make it a good idea for everyone and I think it's important to point that out.......
 
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andyman97

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This topic has been beaten to death. It's just like with stripping the anodizing off of the sidewinder threads. One minute, you say you think it hits better, then you say it's probably the same, then you post it up for sale claiming that stripping the threads increases conductivity.

I don't think anyone is trying to start a fight (I really am not). There are people that genuinely believe that a brass screw will make an aluminum pv hit harder. You are free to believe and try whatever you please. There are people that don't agree with that assessment. As mentioned before, there are always new people reading this thread and they see pictures of someone exclaiming how fantastic their device is with a piece of brass added to it. If you choose to post that up, that's fine but you can't expect others not to post reasoning they disagree so that the new user can make an informed decision as to whether that is something they should do.

With regards to the plastic nut on top of the atomizer, it is a crush nut. It is not intended to be reused. If it crushes enough, the metal post can make contact with the top surface of the atomizer and cause a dead short.

Just because you can remove the brakes from a car and engine brake to stop doesn't mean it's safe or a good idea.

Please don't take offense, I'm not trying to be snide or rude, just clarifying.
 

thejager

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i prefer the magnets to springs...had a few issues with springs...not one issue with the magnets

i agree with dearme...i have no problem with people making modifications to their own devices, it is a necessary part of the continuing evolution of the vaping technology and community... however, advice for new users i think should start with the limitations of the maker until they achieve what the maker intended...if after they are successful with achieving that and it is not what they want...then looking for advice on modification is up to them to go for....

i have seen lots of new RBA users who don't get enough vapor or not the right taste immediately jump to 28g Kanthal instead of taking off a wrap or adding one. Not to mention checking for hotspots correctly or checking for other basic fixes. Many new users, myself included when i started with RBAs, couldnt stand the wick building and all the checking. It is a learned skill, and when it comes to safety i believe following directions first is always key.

I mean as much as i love LEGO's and building all sorts of original ideas, i always built what was on the box first, using the instructions...often it didnt stay that way long...but i always built it "right" first.

Not everyone is me, and anyone can do whatever they want, i just do think we, as an active community of Zen fans, have a part to play in helping out the new people so they can start with stable, maker desired intentions before sending them off into the wilds of modifications (slight or heavy).

No disrespect at all by the way, without modders modding mods and trying anything under the sun we get nowhere.
 

ninfreak

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andy kiba isn't talking about the aluminum of a sidwinder...he is talking about the ss screws and such....which infact do make a huge difference. ss imparts voltage loss...no matter how you look at it...brass, a hell of a lot less. please learn about conductivity before you bash a very knowledgable person. and i myself could not get my bam to hit at all till i stripped the threads....you can't get conductivity through anodizing. remember electricity flows over metal not through it.
 

kiba

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This topic has been beaten to death. It's just like with stripping the anodizing off of the sidewinder threads. One minute, you say you think it hits better, then you say it's probably the same, then you post it up for sale claiming that stripping the threads increases conductivity.

I don't think anyone is trying to start a fight (I really am not). There are people that genuinely believe that a brass screw will make an aluminum pv hit harder. You are free to believe and try whatever you please. There are people that don't agree with that assessment. As mentioned before, there are always new people reading this thread and they see pictures of someone exclaiming how fantastic their device is with a piece of brass added to it. If you choose to post that up, that's fine but you can't expect others not to post reasoning they disagree so that the new user can make an informed decision as to whether that is something they should do.

With regards to the plastic nut on top of the atomizer, it is a crush nut. It is not intended to be reused. If it crushes enough, the metal post can make contact with the top surface of the atomizer and cause a dead short.

Just because you can remove the brakes from a car and engine brake to stop doesn't mean it's safe or a good idea.

Please don't take offense, I'm not trying to be snide or rude, just clarifying.

ok, the reason that i started saying the conductivity was the same either way, was after you told me that i was encouraging people to ruin their devices, which is definitely not something that i would ever want (i felt it was less important for me to feel uncomfortable about having to lie about something I knew to be true, than possibly saving someone from ruining their device, thats the way I see it), so i started saying that even though it is not true and I dont beleive it, I will put this out there one final time, providing a larger path to ground will ALWAYS increase conductivity, and that I am not encouraging anyone to do anything, i was doing something for someone else, who asked me to do it bc I will do it properly, but i think we are not giving our fellow vapers enough credit, this community always continues to amaze me with the innovation that the "little people" provide, look at the positive post on the chi you, that came from wookie on vw, or the stuff that sotong is doing, or countless others (i am drawing a blank here, but gimme a break i need coffee :laugh: )... modders changing their devices to the way they want it inspires innovation, and I will ALWAYS encourage that.

also I like to vape at low to medium level ohms, but you will NEVER see me advocating vaping outside of a batteries limits, I tend to stay out of that argument unless someone asks for my opinion. but the crazy low ohm vaping thing was not really my point, my point was that I feel that if we discourage modding, we are discouraging innovation

....and thats all I have to say about that
 
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andyman97

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andy kiba isn't talking about the aluminum of a sidwinder...he is talking about the ss screws and such....which infact do make a huge difference. ss imparts voltage loss...no matter how you look at it...brass, a hell of a lot less. please learn about conductivity before you bash a very knowledgable person. and i myself could not get my bam to hit at all till i stripped the threads....you can't get conductivity through anodizing. remember electricity flows over metal not through it.
I know enough about conductivity, I really don't need you telling me what to learn, kthx. And there was no bashing anywhere. I tried to make it very clear that that isn't what this is about.

It's about preventing a poor unsuspecting user from having a catastrophic battery failure from failing to follow ZEN's intended use of the device.
 

Iowa Gal

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I'm not a new vaper but relatively new to RBA's. I use the 32g Kanthal and wicks that came with my Zens. I have a supply at this point to last quite a long time so not looking into making any changes yet. I think another thing we need to remember about the clouds of vapor...it really depends on the juice you are using. I can load up a 100% VG juice and fill my office with vapor if I want to. I try to take my time when wrapping a new coil to ensure it seems to be working properly and is within the ohm range I want. I'm learning what to check if I get a harsh hit or metal taste..most of the time if I just ensure the wick isn't touching the bottom of the tank and lightly adjust my coils all is good to go again. I think somethings the coil get's bumped when I remove the cap to fill the tank. Not sure why I'm rambling..just am:laugh:
 

kiba

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Good morning everyone :)...isn't this the part where someone comes on & posts a recipe for PIE? :D

yeah really where is vicsan when you need her :wub:

I'm not a new vaper but relatively new to RBA's. I use the 32g Kanthal and wicks that came with my Zens. I have a supply at this point to last quite a long time so not looking into making any changes yet. I think another thing we need to remember about the clouds of vapor...it really depends on the juice you are using. I can load up a 100% VG juice and fill my office with vapor if I want to. I try to take my time when wrapping a new coil to ensure it seems to be working properly and is within the ohm range I want. I'm learning what to check if I get a harsh hit or metal taste..most of the time if I just ensure the wick isn't touching the bottom of the tank and lightly adjust my coils all is good to go again. I think somethings the coil get's bumped when I remove the cap to fill the tank. Not sure why I'm rambling..just am:laugh:

you must unlearn what you have learned. fear leads to anger. anger leads to hate. hate leads to the dark side.
/yoda :laugh:
 
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ksmith

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At some point, there will be a quartz tank available for the Sidewinder, right now, making a tank IMO wouldn't be helpful as the top portion of the tank contains the treading for the top cap. Not sure how you'd be able to make that work (top cap remain stable) with a glass tank under it.

Maybe some o-rings of the right size, but not sure.

You may want to try fitting the top cap without the standard SW tank on it to see what you can do before going through the effort of getting a custom tank cut.

I really do like the metal tank myself and likely will personally stick with it regardless of future offerings as the Sidewinder really is my work horse. The form factor and durability of the anodizing + the metal tank and threaded cap really make the thing virtually indestructible.

I may be wrong, but I only see three options for doing this.

#1: Have a glass tank made and use the top cap from another Zen but then you lose the "tank not popping off" feature.

#2: Have a poly tank special made with the threading on the end for the top cap to screw onto and only use juices that are "poly safe".

#3: Have a glass tank made and cut the threaded part off of the current tank and thread it in the top cap. Again, the top cap will not be as secure.

Or you could do like I do, which I guess would be option #4. Top off the tank when you change out the battery and just "Vape It".
 
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