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kiba

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Did the actual threading in the unit change, or is the head itself just different on the new ones?

I thought it was just the head and that the actual threading stayed the same...?

the threaded part of the screw for the new ones is smaller.
 

BoyNamedStacy

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I know this was discussed earlier, but you have the battery in negative post against the switch, an you're using AW IMRs?

Yes, thanks for the help though. I know my way around a genny pretty well and everything is as it should be. I'm now seeing that it's a ground issue. I can see a spark between the switch and the locking ring if I slide the lock closer to locking position. Once it completes the circuit with the switch it will fire.
 

DirtyHarry

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Hiya!

Happy Friday, everyone!!

Sorry to interrupt the tech support here, but, well, it has to be interrupted. Yes, it is Friday. Time to drive down to Mexico and rob a bank with the help of a stupid person (sex and hair color deliberately obscured):



So, now that I've inflicted that on y'all... Who is this "PV" reviewer who's vids folks are raving about? Linky, please. :) :) :)

-Inspector (chatty) Callahan
 
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andyman97

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I'm afraid without replacing the mechanical switch with an electric, I don't forsee it happening. The way the mechanical buttons close the circuit is reliable but not a hard closure. You're relying on the sides of the button to make contact to close the circuit. The outside diameter of the button with the inside diameter of the housing. While it's a sound connection most of the time, there is movement, causing the electrical path to change for fractional moments. The Kick is seeing those moments and causing misfires. It could possibly be remedied by a tighter machining tolerance between the button and switch housing but could limit the button throw. The contact of the negative screw could then be compromised without some kind of compression or adjustment agent. Therefore creating another spot for shorts and/or another spot of lost conductivity. That's part of the reason Mike built the APV's for certain batteries. As exacting as his machining specs are, the length of the AW IMR's were figured into his design for that reason.

With magnets, yes. Not with the springs, though. Look at the cobalt, the entire switch is anodized, can't flow current through the switch body, only the post in the switch against the spring when pressed. Mike talked with Brandon at VC about the issue and Brandon and I went through troubleshooting in his room. It's strictly a matter of resistance. The kick has no way to know what method of ground the pv uses, only if it sees too much resistance coming back through the ground then it will fire inconsistently. With a more conductive spring, it should work.
 

Mbisjr

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Need some help guys. I just got my first zenesis, a sidewinder. I know it is an 18350 mod but I got half hour of vaping out of a freshly charged battery before the battery died. Is that anyone else's experience? I'm wondering if I did something wrong with the coil or something to drain the battery that fast or if the battery is old and needs to be replaced. I use to use a gg stealth with an ody and got way longer battery life. Any advise, battery preference, ect? I'm hopin I didn't waste my money :(
 

stevo123

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Need some help guys. I just got my first zenesis, a sidewinder. I know it is an 18350 mod but I got half hour of vaping out of a freshly charged battery before the battery died. Is that anyone else's experience? I'm wondering if I did something wrong with the coil or something to drain the battery that fast or if the battery is old and needs to be replaced. I use to use a gg stealth with an ody and got way longer battery life. Any advise, battery preference, ect? I'm hopin I didn't waste my money :(
mine lasts for ages and i vape it non stop what battery's are you useing
 

cryptodogg

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Need some help guys. I just got my first zenesis, a sidewinder. I know it is an 18350 mod but I got half hour of vaping out of a freshly charged battery before the battery died. Is that anyone else's experience? I'm wondering if I did something wrong with the coil or something to drain the battery that fast or if the battery is old and needs to be replaced. I use to use a gg stealth with an ody and got way longer battery life. Any advise, battery preference, ect? I'm hopin I didn't waste my money :(

I get a ton more time on the SW than just a half hr. Did the device get hot at all? I ask as that world indicate a short and a bad short will suck a batt fast. Recharge the batt and/or try a freshly charged diff batt. Batts do die out over time so it could be your batt, that depends on the batt....that is probably why it's best to try a fully charged diff batt.
 

cryptodogg

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I'm using aw high drain 700mah. I know their almost a year old. I'm thinking about either getting new ones or trying the ultra fire 1200 mah.

All Zenesis devices are designed to only be used with AW IMR batts, if you use something other than those then you do so at your own risk. This is from Mike, as he tested several diff batts and found the AW IMR the safest and still great performers.
 

cryptodogg

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Yes, thanks for the help though. I know my way around a genny pretty well and everything is as it should be. I'm now seeing that it's a ground issue. I can see a spark between the switch and the locking ring if I slide the lock closer to locking position. Once it completes the circuit with the switch it will fire.

On my SW, I don't have to press to the side or for that matter press hard either. If you have a volt meter, place a probe on positive screw and one on the negative and fire....if you don't get a reading then check your connections under the atty (spring depressed below the delrin spacer).....etc
 
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