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Vapor2112

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if it's the wick on the device and it fills the whole hole, it's a fat wick. if it's from a bag of about 5 wicks and they are all the same size, it's a skinny wick

Cobalt "should" be a fat wick if its the one that came in it. No need for an insulator with the anodized Zens. :)
 

Chief Thunder

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Apr 30, 2012
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well i was sick of buying juice, and thought i would try a hand at DIY so i gets about $130 worth of nic and lots of flavors and bits.
to find at check out the company is moving this week, so no deliverys:mad: grrrrrrrr
and i just got the bottle up to try diy :( ahhh well a week won't hurt.

It's not as easy as it sounds man. You will end up spending more on flavors than you did ,on juice.
 

gmaffPappy

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Wow, that is really sweet!

As is the normal progression of a new hobby, I'm beginning to question my early assumptions.

I thought I'd never need a non-VV APV. I really like the idea that I can change voltage on a whim, without having to mod the coil. I find I do it a lot. Probably more than needed. I usually change it with every tank fill to get the best taste from that particular juice, and this would be a pain w/o the ease of the VV.
~Please let know if I'm missing something, just completely misunderstanding what I have/need to do, or just making this harder than it has to be~
I really like the constant voltage the ProVari gives me, even when the battery is above or below the selected setting.

These things are what I really like. Due to that, I love the ProVari.

But, these Cobalts just look SOOOO DAMNED NICE! I'm thinking maybe I should get a one. The problem is, there's no VV.

There's also the really awesome looking and form of the Sidewinders. At least they have the option for VV. I also like the thumb button better than the pinky button on the other Z~s., but there's no clear tank, and I like seeing what and how much is in my tank.

That said, what am I missing? Why should I go with what I always thought an "analog" was - i.e. an e-cig w/o a microprocessor? (I know now that's not the use of the term)

As of now, the pro's I see are - they look GREAT! and if there's ever a electromagnetic pulse, I'd still be able to vape.

Convince me I should order some more vape-mail. I need a backup device, so what should it be? Regardless of what device I choose, it will have a Z-Atty :)

My Cobalt came back home today.

It is now the Zenesis Orange Crush:

IMG_20130118_185729_255.jpg
 

ninfreak

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steve o....you ever need diy assistance don't be afraid to pm me....i have over 200 flavors so there is a chance i have dabbled in whatever flavors you are working with.

right now i am vaping a wonderfull tobb blend with the inspiration of a jagerbomb.....but instead of jager and redbull i am using absinthe and hypnotic......really good stuff.....i can't feel my mouth though lol. numb as hell
 

kiba

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The top cap won't go any tighter. It doesn't actually spin round and round, but does spin quite freely. It doesn't really bother me, so I just leave it be.

mine spins freely w/ the top cap screwed down all the way too ME.

I tried again. I think it just spins easily, not necessarily too much. The top cap is just about as close as it can get to the locking ring. There is a tiny gap at the bottom of the tank though. Is that supposed to be there?

mine has that too lol.... i dunno i think thats normal :confused:

EDIT yeah mine is like vapors.
 

tybin

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well of course you neex more :w00t: i too didn't understand why folks would go back to a 3.7 v device, but.... it's all in yiur set up. besides, i don't run my batteries below 3.7 ish so i don't notice a big drop. i have provari devices as well. just depends on what flavor i want. i just rotate devices
 

ninfreak

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i love all my zens but i always fall back to my zap.... i truly love that setup.....i want like 5 more varis and zaps....they are that awesome.
people call me crazy for loving it so much since i almost never change the "V" word, but i am not much of a mechanical guy, those i use at home. the provari sees 95% of the use
 
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9ball_AJ

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Wow, that is really sweet!

As is the normal progression of a new hobby, I'm beginning to question my early assumptions.

I thought I'd never need a non-VV APV. I really like the idea that I can change voltage on a whim, without having to mod the coil. I find I do it a lot. Probably more than needed. I usually change it with every tank fill to get the best taste from that particular juice, and this would be a pain w/o the ease of the VV.
~Please let know if I'm missing something, just completely misunderstanding what I have/need to do, or just making this harder than it has to be~
I really like the constant voltage the ProVari gives me, even when the battery is above or below the selected setting.

These things are what I really like. Due to that, I love the ProVari.

But, these Cobalts just look SOOOO DAMNED NICE! I'm thinking maybe I should get a one. The problem is, there's no VV.

There's also the really awesome looking and form of the Sidewinders. At least they have the option for VV. I also like the thumb button better than the pinky button on the other Z~s., but there's no clear tank, and I like seeing what and how much is in my tank.

That said, what am I missing? Why should I go with what I always thought an "analog" was - i.e. an e-cig w/o a microprocessor? (I know now that's not the use of the term)

As of now, the pro's I see are - they look GREAT! and if there's ever a electromagnetic pulse, I'd still be able to vape.

Convince me I should order some more vape-mail. I need a backup device, so what should it be? Regardless of what device I choose, it will have a Z-Atty :)

TBH I was the same way when I was still using carto tanks, I could only use an 18350 mechanical mod for about an hour before I wanted to change the battery. I have gone completely 100% genesis type APV's for the last few months, and my Provari's rarely get used other than to check the coil resistance if my meter isn't handy. The voltage drop of pure mechanical mods is no longer an issue for me, although it is still noticeable and consistent voltage is still a nice feature. IMO PWM doesn't perform as well as straight DC voltage on a genny, although this may be just my perceptions. I prefer the vape of a Zen Mini over a Provari/ZAP. I was not a constant tinkerer as you have stated you are, once I found a voltage for a particular juice/carto setup, I stayed there unless I noticed a change in performance.
 

kiba

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Hi guys,
I need some advice. I finally got my first Zen. I had one lined up around Vapercon but my son had a bike accident and that one fell through. Then I thought I had a Cobalt lined up but never heard back. Finally, I paid an extreme amount and bought one on the classies. It is one from Vapercon - but it has been cleaned of overspray/leakage (or whatever it is called) and a new spring put in. The man who sold it to me showed me a video of it where he used it and there was a great amount of vapor produced. Once we received it my ever industrious husband watched videos on wicks and coils and set to work. After multiple tries he finally got a working coil and wick. It uses 32 gauge Kanthal and is wrapped 4 times. It produced 4 nicely glowing coils when he was finished. However, it does not produce much vapor at all. Certainly not what I have seen in demonstration videos. I have been using it about a week and love it - but would prefer a bit more vapor. Any idea what we are doing wrong.

start w/ these things,

theres no more than 4 wraps

the switch is screwed down all the way, tightly

airhole is lined up perfectly w/ the coil, when you look thru the airhole you should see the coil

batt is freshly charged

plenty of juice in the tank

then go on to this....

This comes up in the chat thread just about every day so I figured I'd make a thread specific to addressing this issue.

If you have a cOBalt or a BAM and you're having weak/inconsistent hits, there are some steps you can take to correct this.

These are the parts of the switch:

SwitchAssy_zps8d00c29f.jpg


In the switch post section, there is a small channel that runs around the actual post. This surface should have no anodizing. Using a small flat head screw driver (eyeglass screw driver works well) or some other object, scrape the surface around the switchpost until shiny bare metal is exposed. Then, you should see that the top of the switch post also has no anodizing. Using sandpaper, sand that area, as well.

If your switch body is silver in color, that means your switch body is stainless and you don't need to do anything further. If it is black (BAM) or blue (cOBalt), then sand the spring contact point on the switch body, also.

There is no need to take any other step such as removing anodizing or inserting magnets, paper clips, watch batteries (IAN!), etc. This is the quickest, easiest, most effective way to get your anodized zenesis firing to it's potential.

awesome andy, I love your diagrams, like andy said make sure you can see metal on the spring contacts like this..... (from a SW but its aluminum like the cobalt/bam) i think mike used a lazering process to get rid of the anodising, which might leave behind some oxidation, you should be able to see shiny aluminum there, just use a tiny flathead or some fine grit sandpaper to get rid of it.

switchparts_zps8ef6a6b4.jpg
 

Escapereality

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Jul 25, 2012
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Did the design of the sidewinder change at all? The reason I ask is the sidewinder I just got from ENS doesn't seem like I can adjust the wick hole position--seems like the atty body is one solid piece where it looks like in videos I've seen that it spins somehow so that you can adjust the position of the actual wick hole.

It lines up okay now...just for future reference j guess:)
 
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