3.5 what? Wattage is wattage, there isn't much difference in battery draw between the same wattage regardless of how you reach it.
Something's going wrong if you are wrapping coils for which a day or two difference is significant.
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3.5 what? Wattage is wattage, there isn't much difference in battery draw between the same wattage regardless of how you reach it.
Something's going wrong if you are wrapping coils for which a day or two difference is significant.
If I'm using a VW mod, I'll keep it between six to seven watts. However, I am generally using a provari, so I can only change voltage
If I'm using a VW mod, I'll keep it between six to seven watts. However, I am generally using a provari, so I can only change voltage
What are you thinking you will accomplish by going subohm at 6-7w?
If you change the volts you automatically change the wattage and vice versa
they are 2 components to the same action
A battery is a power source. Since power is a product of voltage and current, and batteries have a fixed voltage, they are usually described by current capacity. Still doesn't change the fact that it is a power source.
Increasing the voltage of the output means an increased current draw from the battery. If a regulated mod is outputting 7 Watts at 3 volts or 7 Watts at 6 volts, the battery discharges pretty much the same current. (So close to the same current that you'd have to have some nice equipment and know how to use it to measure the difference.)
Something is wrong in your method of observation if the same power output had different battery charge time periods on voltage change alone. There are some efficiency issues with bucking fixed voltages up, but this will manifest as seconds, maybe minutes of difference.
I didn't read this entire thread and just kinda' stumbled on this. I just wanted to make sure this inaccurate thought process on how DC electricity works is not taken to heart as a fact by others who may not understand electricity.
Here's a calculator that will tell you the watts you're at. Just add volts and resistance(ohms) and it will give you the watts. Ohm's Law Calculator
I'll have a bash at explaining .
The two equations :
Volts=Amps X Ohms
Power=volts X Amps
So as you can see by the second equation , upping the volts ups the power .
Now that one is cleared up , the next one .
Why your coils are problematic in a matter of days could be that you are hitting them with too much power for the wicking ability .
You see a wet coil/wick will only reach the temperature that the juice starts to evaporate , and should remain around that temperature as long as the wicking keeps the coil/wick wet .
If the wicking is too slow the coil/wick will dry up fast and if heating is continued the juice will burn on the wick causing bad tastes and gunk up the wick reducing vapour and increasing bad tastes .
So it seems that you are unfamiliar with the two equations and their implications/interactions , and that you need some more experience with wicks and coils to improve the wicking or identify that you have hit the maximum power that the coil/wick can dissipate before it starts to burn foul .
When you are using a VV device, such as a Provari, when you change the voltage, you are changing wattage.
Actually, the opposite of what you're saying is true. For a given wattage, there will be less battery draw if you use a higher resistance coil and higher voltage, than you will a low resistance coil and lower volts.
Here's a hypothetical example:
Suppose you have a 3.0 ohm coil, and wish to vape it at 7.0 watts.
In order to do that, you would set your Provari at about 4.6 volts.
At 4.6 volts, 3.0 ohm coil, and 7.0 watts, your amperage draw on your battery is 1.5 amps.
Now, suppose you had a 1.5 ohm coil, and wanted to vape at the same 7.0 watts.
You would now set your Provari at 3.2 volts.
At 3.2 volts, 1.5 ohm coil, and 7.0 watts, your amperage draw on your battery would now be about 2.2 amps.
Obviously, a battery drawing 2.2 amps will discharge faster than one drawing 1.5 amps.
You are forgetting that the relative voltage levels that make up that above power outputs are coming from a piece of electronic kit .
So the current calcs on the load side will differ from what is being drawn from the battery due to the electronics .
IE a higher voltage may mean a lower current to achieve the power at the coil , but the electronis will have to draw more current from the battery to make possible the increased voltage .
You'd have to start looking at the efficiency/load curves or measure the current to get the true figure .
No, the output current it 1.5 amps. The extra voltage is converted from current coming from the battery using a boost circuit. The battery does not change voltage.
Again, no, that's the current from the ProVari's output, not the battery. The voltage is decreased by a buck circuit, not the battery.
Obviously changing voltages from a fixed voltage power source is a source of confusion as the conclusion is flawed.
I didn't want to get into the additional power required of boost circuitry, to confuse the issue. I was just trying to give an example based on basic Ohms Law.
Then use Ohms Law and it won't be confusing. The battery has a fixed voltage. The battery is a power source.
Now what does the law tell us about 7 Watts vs. 7 Watts with a fixed voltage? It tells us that the current is the same and the resistance is the same.
You confused the output of the electronics with the power source and used output of the electronics to draw conclusions about the power source. The losses from the buck/boost circuit are minimal for what we are discussing. They can be safely disregarded without having much of an impact on the calculations. (Actual vs. Calculated delta will be small.)
I know it is slightly OT but , have you seen Bursado's vid on the vammo ?
If I remember rightly , it showed that the vamo hits the wall in voltage terms for some loads .
So people may think they are doing x Watts when in reality it can be quite a way below what the display indicates
I think it and can only hit max power for the loads that suit it best .
Anyhoo , have a look my memory is not the best !
If I remember correctly the Bursado's vid on vammo was with a vammo that used Average voltage for the PWM voltage.
That gets into AC electricity and a PWM voltage should only be measured and calculated using RMS voltage. (Which I believe the manufacturers finally figured out.)
But, in general, it can lead to things not making sense if you use DC math to solve AC electricity. DC doesn't usually need mean squares or have phase relationships between current and voltage.
That gets into AC electricity and a PWM voltage should only be measured and calculated using RMS voltage. (Which I believe the manufacturers finally figured out.)
But, in general, it can lead to things not making sense if you use DC math to solve AC electricity. DC doesn't usually need mean squares or have phase relationships between current and voltage.
If you want to regulate sub-ohm coils, DNA20 is your go to chip. Crank that up to 14 - 16 watts and it starts regulating. If I am to go sub-ohm, it will be with my DNA20 mod in hand! (yes, I own a ShanMod Gadget Dual 18650)
I know it is slightly OT but , have you seen Bursado's vid on the vammo ?
If I remember rightly , it showed that the vamo hits the wall in voltage terms for some loads .
So people may think they are doing x Watts when in reality it can be quite a way below what the display indicates
I think it and can only hit max power for the loads that suit it best .
Anyhoo , have a look my memory is not the best !
the vamo will not run its max 15 watts with a single battery in it. i built a 2.8 ohm coil for mine the other day and was let down with the performance i was getting with a single 18350 at"15 watts". i grabbed my meter and checked, sure enough it was only putting out 11 watts. i threw a freshly charged 18650 in it, same thing, stacked 2 18350s and it did the trick.
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