Here I am again to present yet another review. This time I’ll be taking a look at not one but two new tanks by Dovpo. These new tanks are continuations of the Blotto series that Dovpo has released with cooperation from Vaping Bogan aka Sam Parsons. After having tested both the Blotto Max and the Blotto V1.5, I would consider the Max as a dual coil rta and the V1.5 as a single coil rta although I guess you could try to stuff a dual coil into the V1.5 but I didn’t. Both tanks are very similar in appearance but differ in size and of course the Max has a larger build deck. Let’s take a look at some features and what’s included and I’ll talk about my experience with these tanks.






WHAT’S IN THE BOX?








SPECIFICATIONS:

Product Name: Blotto Max RTA

Capacity: 3.8ml (straight glass)/6.2ml (bubble tube)

Filling Type: Top filling

Diameter: 28mm

Color: Black, Gunmetal, Stainless Steel



Product Name: Blotto V1.5 RTA

Diameter: 26mm

E-juice capacity: 3.5ml/6.4ml

Filling Type: Top filling

Airflow: Dual diffusion airflow system

Glass Tube: Straight glass tube (3.5ml), bubble glass tube (6.4ml)

Color: Gunmetal, Silver, Black



FEATURES:

Blotto V1.5 Details:



1. Released by Dovpo & Vaping Bogan

2. Original honeycomb airflow, smooth to adjust

3. Elevated metal backed airflow posts for better heating and flavor

4. 26mm diameter, easy and leak-proof top filling system

5. 3.5ml/6.4ml e-juice capacity for your option

6. Straight glass tube (3.5ml), glass/PCTG bubble tube (6.4ml)

7. 272 degree airflow, dual diffusion airflow system

8. Strengthened AFC ring & base, improved cotton well design



DOVPO Blotto Max RTA Tank Details:



1. Original honeycomb air flow

2. 272 degree airflow

3. Improved metal backed airflow posts

4. Dual diffusion airflow for the smoothest draw

5. Top filling system

6. 3.8ml (straight glass)/6.2ml (bubble tube) e-juice capacity

7. Improved cotton well design

8. Strengthened AFC ring & base





BLOTTO MAX








BLOTTO V1.5










INITIAL THOUGHTS:

The packaging of the Blotto tanks is the same as what I saw on the Blotto Single Coil RTA that I reviewed previously. They come in the black and pink boxes with a clear window in the front so you can see the tank inside. I rather like it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve opened a sample where the picture on the box isn’t the version of what’s inside the box. I received the gunmetal version of the V1.5 and the silver version of the Max.

The back side of the package shows the features of the tanks and the company information for Dovpo. Once opened, inside I found each tank with the straight glass installed along with bubble glass, PCTG bubble tube, the metal skull which is used for trimming the coils, user manual, and spare parts bag. No coils or cotton were included with the tanks.






After cleaning both tanks I immediately wanted to install the bubble glass tank sections on both tanks. The straight glass on the V1.5 wasn’t hard to get off but the glass on the Max was a different story. It was really stuck to the o ring and thought I was going to have to break the glass but after a few tries was finally able to remove it without damaging it. This seems to be a recurring trend on the Blotto tanks.

Below are images of the V1.5. Dovpo has stuck with the bottle cap aesthetics used on prior versions. A quick turn and the top is removed for filling using the nice sized fill port openings. The airflow on both tanks is still using the honeycomb style airflow. I feel like the V1.5 has a little more airflow than the Single Coil version did but not a lot more. I liked the V1.5 with a single coil and the airflow wide open. I used a .35 ohm Ni80 fused Clapton coil and ran it in the high 20’s range and got very good flavor. I do feel like it might have been good if there was a little more airflow available.

As you can see in the third picture, the tank is easily disassembled for cleaning. This one wasn’t very hard to remove the straight glass. I did notice that once the bubble glass was installed that I needed to be careful to hold the glass in place when removing the build deck for rewicking when there was still liquid in the tank or the glass could move and liquid could spill and make a mess. I like how when inserting a coil in the V1.5 that you can use the post screws on one side instead of being offset like they were on the Single Coil. This makes coil installation much easier. The last picture in this series shows a standard 316ss Clapton coil that did not work well for me and that’s when I switched to the Ni80 coil that I used for testing. I got the wicking too tight on my first attempt and decided to change out coil and wick.










Now to take a look at the Blotto Max. As you can see in both tanks there is airflow under the coils and also on either side with small holes in the uprights to provide the 272 degree airflow. I used two Ni80 fused Clapton coils rated at .4 ohms but for some reason the mod I was using the tank on came up reading .12 ohms when I would have thought it should have been closer to .2 ohms. The Max does have more available airflow than the V1.5 but once again I felt like it should have had more available airflow. I did however run the Max with the airflow at about ¾ open but think that some people may expect more airflow from a dual coil tank.

I didn’t get any dry hits but the vapor density wasn’t quite what I would expect from a dual coil rta. I might have been able to thin the wicks out a little bit more but didn’t want to thin them too much and take a chance of flooding or leaking. I experienced no leaking from this tank while testing it. I was running the tank at around 45 watts and would call the flavor production average.










FINAL THOUGHTS:

I greatly appreciate the opportunity to try both the Dovpo Blotto V1.5 and the Blotto Max rtas. I found both tanks fairly easy to build and wick. For my style of vaping, I really very much preferred the V1.5. It could be due to my building skills as I don’t use a lot of dual coil rtas but I found the V1.5 to provide superior flavor compared to the Max and found it interesting that the V1.5 had a slightly larger liquid capacity.

Although the Max did have more airflow available than the V1.5 I felt like that both tanks could have used a little more airflow available. I often like an RDL so the airflow was sufficient for my needs.

I’d like to thank Dovpo and Neil for sending these tanks for this review. Thank you to the readers as always. Below is a link to the website.


Blotto Max RTA by Dovpo & Vaping Bogan – DOVPO Official

BLOTTO V1.5 RTA by Dovpo & Vaping Bogan – DOVPO Official

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This is part one of a two-part post.

This rating causes more discussion and disagreement than all of the others combined.

The manufacturer’s current rating, or ratings, are not the level at which the cell will explode. They are also not the numbers to start operating at, going higher and higher if nothing bad happens right away.

In my opinion the manufacturer’s rating is the number they feel will give you decent performance for the rated number of discharge/charge cycles (cycle life) with a reasonable degree of safety. It’s not some kind of hard limit. It is their recommendation for how hard you can use the cell to get the cycle life it’s rated for.

If you operate at above the rating, perhaps using a 20A cell at 25A, then you get worse performance (more voltage sag), shorter overall (cycle) life, and increased risk of trouble as the cell ages.

If you operate at below the rating then the opposite happens. You get better performance, longer cycle life, and decreased risk.

How much these things get better, or worse if above the rating, is too hard to quantify without testing. But the further above the rating you go the worse things can get and the further below the rating you go the better things can get.

This lack of a hard limit, a single do-or-die number you should never exceed, is what causes so many problems. Depending on your tolerance for risk, your performance requirements, and your cycle life requirements, you can have a current rating for a cell that spans a wide range of numbers.

For example…
If a cell has a 20A rating from the manufacturer for reasonable performance then perhaps it would have a 300 cycle life before it lost 20% of its capacity. You can use the cell beyond this (if otherwise it’s still in good condition) but a 20% loss of capacity is a common end-of-life point for a cell.

The manufacturer could give that same cell a 30A rating and it would be a perfectly legitimate rating. But the performance could be crap and the cell might only last 100 cycles. The risks of using that cell could also significantly increase if it was not kept from reaching high temperatures.

The manufacturer could also give that cell a legitimate 10A rating. It would operate very efficiently (good performance) and have a very long cycle life. It would also run cooler, great for use in higher ambient temperatures and/or at lower risk.

So which is the true rating? They all are. It’s up to the manufacturer to decide what applications the cell is going to be used in and to set a rating that helps their huge commercial customers decide whether that cell is a good choice or not.

For example…
If a cell is being used very hard in a handheld electric vacuum cleaner, only for a couple minutes at a time, the cell might have been given a very high current rating. The priority is power, how much they can get from the cell for short periods.

The vacuum cleaner manufacturer doesn’t need the cell to last ten years. They need to have the smallest battery pack possible that can run the vacuum cleaner well. The manufacturer of the cell knows this and would give a cell made for this application a high current rating with a temperature limit to prevent excessive damage. The true continuous current rating would be a lot lower.

So how can we use a manufacturer’s current rating? And what about the ratings for all those rewrapped and non-manufacturer wrapped cells? That will be covered in Part 5B to be posted soon.

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So I messed up hardcore. Last night I dropped my juul in the (unused) toilet and just pulled it out and threw everything on my table to mess around with in the morning (it was late at night and I was NOT feeling up to dealing with it) this morning, not thinking at all, I took a puff off the pod that has been in the toilet. I realized immediately after where that pod was from, and I threw it away. Now I’m so anxious that bacteria from the toilet is in my lungs and going to give me a killer infection and put me in the hospital or something. Even though the toilet had clean water, I know there’s hella bacteria in a toilet bowl. Should I be freaking out??? Am I going to die??

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2. Fit for Aromamizer Supreme V3 RDTA 25mm
3. Compatible with 18650/20700/21700 battery
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5. Power/Voltage/TC(Ni, Ti and SS)/Bypass Mode
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Supposedly It's all about tobacco and controlling nicotine addiction - We have already shown plenty of evidence that vaping is one of the best ways to reduce nicotine dependence and is much safer than lit tobacco products especially cigarettes. But is it good for other health issues as well ??? - And why does the FDA not allow advertising of vaping for nicotine dependence and these other health concerns:

1. Obesity - They say that one of the leading causes of premature death, besides smoking cigarettes, is obesity - Being very overweight. Doesn't it make sense that having a flavorful vaping blend {with or without nicotine as 0mg juices are still available} to draw on instead of another snack you don't need, might help with weight control?- Maybe that is another real reason they want to ban flavors ?

2. As a substitute for dangerous drug dependence - Doesn't it make sense that developing a vaping hobby might get some peoples minds off of dangerous drugs? - Nicotine is a lot less dangerous than many of the drugs causing much suffering and death throughout the world.

3. There is some evidence that nocitne might help protect from Alzheimer's disease:

Can nicotine protect the aging brain?
Date:
September 20, 2016
Source:
Texas A&M University
Summary: Everyone knows that tobacco products are bad for your health. However, according to research, it turns out the nicotine itself--when given independently from tobacco--could help protect the brain as it ages, and even ward off Parkinson's or Alzheimer's disease.

Can nicotine protect the aging brain?


So there you have 3 reasons vaping may have health benefits they don't want you to know - You will not see this on the news; hear it from rabid fear mongering politicians working for the bought and paid for organizations out to restrict and eventually outlaw the vaping hobby as was done in India and now Australia, where you now need a doctors prescription to buy vaping supplies.
Still, all things considered, even they sometimes have to admit the truth
- The FDA has finally admited that vaping is in fact less toxic than cigarettes !!!

Howdy howdy,
I got the tsunami surge a couple days ago and it's been running fine, however, I just plugged it in and now it isn't turning on or charging right. The red charge light is on, but only for a couple minutes, then it shuts off. Can anyone help?

This is one that seems so simple…how fast does the manufacturer say I can charge the cell? And it often is that simple, one number you can use to decide what to set your charger to.

But there can be situations where that one number is no longer good to use, or can even be dangerous. Let’s take a look at what the charge ratings mean and what situations are to be avoided.

Many cells can have two charge ratings, standard and rapid (or fast). The standard rate is pretty much just what it sounds like, something you can use every day without causing the cell to age faster than normal.

The rapid or fast charging rate though is harder on cells. It heats them up more (which cells hate) and it causes more of the materials inside to break down faster. This causes a greater loss of capacity and increases the internal resistance of the cell (which causes more voltage sag in use).

You don’t have to avoid fast charging completely, it’s just too convenient sometimes. But I recommend not doing it every day unless you want to replace your battery pack or cells more often.

If the datasheet for the cell or the manufacturer of the device that uses the cells only mentions one charge rate then there’s not much we can do. Hopefully it’s not a level high enough to really speed up aging of the cells. You can always use a slower charge rate though if you are unsure.

A good way to tell if your device, cells, or battery pack is being charged (too) quickly is to feel if it gets more than a bit warm. Heat is the enemy of all cells and if we want the longest cell life then we need to avoid creating that heat.

For battery packs, especially those wrapped in layers of abrasion-resistant insulation and shrink wrap, the temperature of the cells in the middle of the pack can be MUCH higher than the pack’s external temperature. Especially at higher charge (and discharge) rates. Hopefully you have a battery management system (BMS) device in place that you set up to monitor the temperature of the cells in the middle of the pack. Stay below 45°C for good cell life and never exceed 60°C to help keep the risks down.

For USB-charged devices like tablets, phones, and powerbanks we can often charge them at a slower rate by using a USB charging adapter that has a lower power rating. For example, you can use a 15W adapter (used for phones) to charge a tablet that might normally use a 45W adapter. It will take a lot longer to charge but this slow charging is a lot better for the battery.

For vaping devices, PEV’s like skateboards and e-bikes, and higher power flashlights we can use the ratings given by the manufacturer of the individual cells we’re using and decide how fast to charge them. The charge ratings are in the datasheet for the cells or, hopefully, are provided by the manufacturer of the battery pack you are using.

If you have no info about how fast you can charge the cells or pack then start slow! For ultra-high capacity 18650’s, over 3000mAh, start at 0.5A per cell (1A if two are in parallel, etc). For ultra-high capacity 21700’s, over 4200mAh, start at 1A per cell.

See if they get more than a bit warm. If they do then stop there, do not charge them any faster. Reduce the charge current a bit and try again. If they aren’t getting warm then you can probably increase the charge current. Be aware that many AC-powered chargers, not ones that use a USB charging adapter, run quite hot and can heat up the cells even if you are charging them slowly.

Use your best judgement here. Nothing I say can be applied blindly to every possible charging scenario. If something doesn’t seem right, if a cell or pack or the charger is acting weird or getting hot even at a slow charge rate, then stop!

You can use a fan aimed at the charger to help keep the cells cooler but do not use this as an excuse to use something like a 3A charge rate for a cell rated for 0.5A charging!

Another way to extend the life of your cells is to not charge them fully. Charging to only 4.1V or even 4.0V can significantly extend their life. This would be about 80% or so for devices like phones, tablets, powerbanks, etc., that just show you battery percentage. But you will get less run time from them since you stopped before they reached 4.20V (and then topped off). There is always a tradeoff!

A compromise for charging individual round cells can be to stop the charge as soon as they reach 4.20V. Removing them from the charger before they are fully topped off can help extend cell life a bit since they will drop down to 4.15V or so (depending on how fast they were being charged).

So when can charging be dangerous?

• The charger is set to a voltage that is too high. This damages the cells and can cause them to eventually short-circuit internally if it’s done often enough. Never charge a cell or battery pack above its voltage rating. This is typically 4.25V maximum (4.20V preferred) for standard Li-Ion cells and 3.60V for LiFePO4 cells. Check the datasheet for the cells to be sure though. If your charger stops at something like 4.25V or 4.28V and the cell doesn’t quickly settle down to below 4.20V then I recommend replacing the charger. There’s almost no extra capacity being added to the cell and you’re just aging them faster.
• Charging cold cells. Never charge any Li-Ion cells when they are below 0°C/32°F. This can cause lithium metal to be plated onto different parts of the cell internally and can eventually lead to an internal short-circuit which can cause the cell to vent, catch fire, or possibly burst.
• Charging much too fast. This heats up the cells and speeds up their aging. You’re adding lots of energy to the cells and if anything goes wrong, a cell has an internal defect or has reached the end of its life, then you increase the risk of a cell failure or fire.
• Charging without balancing. This can be a hotly debated topic for battery pack owners. Balancing a pack means making sure all of the cells come up to the same full charging voltage at the same time…or as much as possible. This prevents any cells from being overcharged and helps make sure we get the best performance from the pack. Most battery management system (BMS) circuit boards/devices are able to balance a pack automatically and in my opinion should be used. But if you have well matched cells (both capacity and internal resistance) in very good condition and you are not constantly stressing them then you might need to only balance occasionally or perhaps not for a long time. As all cells age though the small differences between them grow and eventually you will need to balance them. If you do not balance the cells in a pack, and you do not have a BMS that can prevent a cell from dropping below its 2.5V rating, then you risk a cell eventually getting so far out of balance with the others that it can drop to zero volts as the pack is used. If you continue to use the pack you can actually end up bringing the cell down to a negative voltage, damaging it badly. There is a real risk of this cell catching fire if this happens.
• Old cells. As cells age their internal resistance goes up. This can cause more heat to be created when the cell is being used and especially when the cell gets near its full charging voltage. As your cells or battery pack gets older be sure to occasionally check how warm it gets near the end of its charging. If it’s getting warmer than it used to then that cell might be nearing the end of its life or one or more cells in the battery pack might be doing the same. You might be able to get a bit more life out of a cell by lowering the charge current rate (so it doesn’t get as warm) but for a pack I would consider retiring it. The pack’s performance is limited by the worse performing cells and the safety risks go up as the cells age unless you have a very, very good BMS that is set up well for the pack. Even then it’s just not worth it IMO to continue overheating some cells for a bit more use of the pack.

Charging Li-Ion cells can be as simple as plugging in the adapter that came with the device or it can involve a complicated setup of a BMS you’re installing in a battery pack and the sourcing of the right power supply, connectors, and fuses to safely charge the pack. But no matter how you charge there are a few things we can do to extend the life of our cells and help prevent any risks growing.

Hi guys and girls
I am a vaper and have been vaping For 7 years and just wanted to say hi

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Hi Guys,

very unwisely i used my multimeter to "perform" both
a continuity and resistance measurement on a charged 18650 cell.
Unfortunately i also tried both of these two measurements both ways

1. red on +, black on -
2. red on -, black on +

The battery did not heat up, no sparks, no fume. The multimeter showed nothing /unplausible stuff depending on which pole i held the probes. Multimeter seems to work fine. Probe lines are fused 200mA/250v. No fuse applied as far as i can tell.

I would ask you, if i did damage the cell by doing so. If someone could explain what i technically did by my doing i would also be thankful.

Thanks for your time

Clementine

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New member developed rash

Like this guy had it down below! Thought i had herpes! ..neg test..then i thought Ahah! Ecig stopped 2 weeks went away. Itching was horrible felt like i had some STD lol....Shame i enjoyed the ecig i was using the JULL and Another brand must be coil burning or PG . Hopefully one day can resume if made from other ingredients but for now ill just use RYO or gum.

Hi all,

I've been reading post after post on these forums of people who have had improved health benefits after quitting smoking and taking up vaping. I have my last pouch of tobacco and have started to vape a little on the side.

Reasons for switching:
Monetary...smoking is just far too expensive in Australia
Fatigue... I am tired a lot and think this may be part in due to smoking
Lung capacity... I find myself out of breath and coughing more as I get older.

I am posting this so I can look back on my journey.

Thank you for being a part of it.

Hi
Just purchased my very first smok nord 4 kit from recommendations and the screen isnt working, Ive checked it's not in stealth mode but still black screen. Is there anything else I can try before returning to supplier? tia

Hey guys anyone knows of any supplier in Israel that sells 100 MG Nic Base ?
Ordering from USA or EU wont make it pass customs unfortunately .
Thanks best regards !!!