Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
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Thanks Jeremy! I tried to get mine out, but seems like the battery is holding me back. I may need to put my big boy pants on and yank it out of the case.
I'm loooking forward to hearing what you guys find out about the boards. It'll answer a question I asked ages ago; "can we just connect the data lines of the usb connector on our VT60's to enable updates?"
Yeah the padding strip sticks to the case after a while. The wires are pretty tight in the battery if you want to pull on them a bit instead of the top so you don't stress the board.
I feel you I was getting worried about to quit and find another way... Then I grabbed it and gave it a slight tug and she started sliding out. The wires held up fine.
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This is the one with U4 missing from the board.
The one in the picture is a different board revision from the one I have. At the top where U4 belongs you see a "jumper" or 0 ohm resistor. Mine doesn't have this piece all 6 pads for U4 are empty, and there are two missing spots for capacitor similar to C7 and C2 in the picture. What I need to do it get under the top cover and see where the data line traces for the USB port go.... I'll need to de-solder the 510 I believe along with the battery wires to free up some wiggle room. I have the tools to do it, I just need to make sure that my old box is loaded up with a kanthal build if things really go south.
On a sad note I tried to open up my VT again and ended up "breaking" the screen. It still works fine but is in constant stealth mode
I think the fire button snagged the screen connector. Note to anyone disassembling theirs is to keep the fire button pointed downwards to the ground. Even worse I still wasn't able to remove the battery. I may try and heat it and see if the tape holding the battery in will release its death grip.
Anyone with a broken one not under warranty want to donate some parts for the cause?
The one in the picture is a different board revision from the one I have. At the top where U4 belongs you see a "jumper" or 0 ohm resistor. Mine doesn't have this piece all 6 pads for U4 are empty, and there are two missing spots for capacitor similar to C7 and C2 in the picture. What I need to do it get under the top cover and see where the data line traces for the USB port go.... I'll need to de-solder the 510 I believe along with the battery wires to free up some wiggle room. I have the tools to do it, I just need to make sure that my old box is loaded up with a kanthal build if things really go south.
On a sad note I tried to open up my VT again and ended up "breaking" the screen. It still works fine but is in constant stealth mode
I think the fire button snagged the screen connector. Note to anyone disassembling theirs is to keep the fire button pointed downwards to the ground. Even worse I still wasn't able to remove the battery. I may try and heat it and see if the tape holding the battery in will release its death grip.Anyone with a broken one not under warranty want to donate some parts for the cause
?
Oh man bummer, should have mentioned that... The button has to be pointed down. That was probably jamming your efforts before, now you can tug on it without catching the screen with the button down
A trick going back together- I held the button in place and put a piece of electrical tape over the outside to hold it out. Worked great.
I also added padding under and over the edge of the board protect the screen from breaking on hard drops.
A trick going back together- I held the button in place and put a piece of electrical tape over the outside to hold it out. Worked great.
I also added padding under and over the edge of the board protect the screen from breaking on hard drops.
if I understand (battery tape stuck to inside of case)
a clean hack saw blade slid in would work it loose with minimal clearance...
a clean hack saw blade slid in would work it loose with minimal clearance...
Its not really taped to the case. Its like foam weather stripping and it compresses actually with the angle of the case and that makes it tight and kinda wedged in. Give it a gentle tug, with the button down, and it will come loose.
yepper, NOT taped to case
but the vibrant spacer taped to battery is stuck to case...
slide a stiff hack saw blade in will/should release it without harm (wire stress)
but the vibrant spacer taped to battery is stuck to case...
slide a stiff hack saw blade in will/should release it without harm (wire stress)
Anyone with a broken one not under warranty want to donate some parts for the cause
My VT no longer works so you are welcome to it if it will help the cause.
my evic VT is showing 1 W cant change think battery is messed up anyone else get this or try to take out battery and replace
I doubt it is the battery.
Have you tried a different atty?
Changed settings from Ni to Ti to VW?
Can't change any settings can't even turn it off only function that seems to work is if I hold the fire button it goes in and out of stealth mode. I tried a different arty same thing.
I just seen that the eVIC VTC mini has a new firmware upgrade 
v 2.0 allows for Stainless Steel TC now...
it also slightly changes the display look/readout some
adj W in TC - upgradable - 75w - bypass - now SS
quite the robust little machine now & the $$ ain't bad...
v 2.0 allows for Stainless Steel TC now...
it also slightly changes the display look/readout some
adj W in TC - upgradable - 75w - bypass - now SS
quite the robust little machine now & the $$ ain't bad...
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