Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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If you guys are serious about Ø3.5mm airflow upgrade, you could ship your kayfun base to me and I'll upgrade it for you. Because the positive block has to be re-threaded to M4.5 - 0.5 and center insulators have to be drilled to Ø4.5 mm. I also replace the bottom nut, the one that holds the base together, with a heftier one (more threads) and new 510 insulator.
But, if Ø2.7mm airhole is enough, then I can sell you my self installed upgrade kit that looks like this:
Make me an offer?
Ø2.9mm airhole is not worth it because, even though I didn't have to drill the insulator, but I had to make a new positive block from the scratch.
But, if Ø2.7mm airhole is enough, then I can sell you my self installed upgrade kit that looks like this:
Make me an offer?
Ø2.9mm airhole is not worth it because, even though I didn't have to drill the insulator, but I had to make a new positive block from the scratch.
Blue one... Looks good! Only $13.99 https://101vape.com/rba-s-rda-s/660-blue-kayfun-v4-clone-by-tobeco.html
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Having major connection issues with my new KF4 i got the infinity(?) upgraded clone for just under $30 I've seen a few fixes for this and i gave sanding down the spring ends already a go and it still having issues - i'm getting no atty found or my DNA 40 ask if its a new coil every 2min - after cleaning out the base it works fine for 6h then back to the same old issues.
While I would love a @AMDTrucking Mod frankly i'm unwilling to pay what there worth they really look great nice work btw
so what would you guys recommend is the best fix out of the following - or if you know another better/cheaper one please link me
1. Kayfun 4 Springless Center Pin just using kf4 parts
2. Tubbyengineer spring mod https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/.../60652-kayfun-4-resistance-stabilisation.html (the details are a little lacking but willing to give a go)
3. OR stuff it just get a steam tuners KF4 spring less connector or Awe mods KF4 spring less ( any idea if these work in the KF4 infinity(?) Upgraded clone
I'm not looking for TC accuracy happy to stick with kanthal i just want it to work like my other KF4 when i press the button.
And FTR for anyone that was wondering the KF4 infinity(?) 'Upgraded' clone has good build quality, my juice flow has a tendency to jam shut but otherwise its great! With the chimney extension mine now hold like 7ml which is nice imo bit of a monster but nice for a desk mod not to have to refill often!
While I would love a @AMDTrucking Mod frankly i'm unwilling to pay what there worth they really look great nice work btw
so what would you guys recommend is the best fix out of the following - or if you know another better/cheaper one please link me
1. Kayfun 4 Springless Center Pin just using kf4 parts
2. Tubbyengineer spring mod https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/.../60652-kayfun-4-resistance-stabilisation.html (the details are a little lacking but willing to give a go)
3. OR stuff it just get a steam tuners KF4 spring less connector or Awe mods KF4 spring less ( any idea if these work in the KF4 infinity(?) Upgraded clone
I'm not looking for TC accuracy happy to stick with kanthal i just want it to work like my other KF4 when i press the button.
And FTR for anyone that was wondering the KF4 infinity(?) 'Upgraded' clone has good build quality, my juice flow has a tendency to jam shut but otherwise its great! With the chimney extension mine now hold like 7ml which is nice imo bit of a monster but nice for a desk mod not to have to refill often!
I have tried three different kayfun 4's. One EH Pro and two tobeco. After a period of a couple days all three leak thru the air holes. The tobeco flood too. The EH pro doesn't leak near as bad as the other two but does seep some out the air holes. I have some #16 orings coming that I hope will fix the problem.
Having major connection issues with my new KF4 i got the infinity(?) upgraded clone for just under $30 I've seen a few fixes for this and i gave sanding down the spring ends already a go and it still having issues - i'm getting no atty found or my DNA 40 ask if its a new coil every 2min - after cleaning out the base it works fine for 6h then back to the same old issues.
While I would love a @AMDTrucking Mod frankly i'm unwilling to pay what there worth they really look great nice work btw
so what would you guys recommend is the best fix out of the following - or if you know another better/cheaper one please link me
1. Kayfun 4 Springless Center Pin just using kf4 parts
2. Tubbyengineer spring mod https://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/.../60652-kayfun-4-resistance-stabilisation.html (the details are a little lacking but willing to give a go)
3. OR stuff it just get a steam tuners KF4 spring less connector or Awe mods KF4 spring less ( any idea if these work in the KF4 infinity(?) Upgraded clone
I'm not looking for TC accuracy happy to stick with kanthal i just want it to work like my other KF4 when i press the button.
And FTR for anyone that was wondering the KF4 infinity(?) 'Upgraded' clone has good build quality, my juice flow has a tendency to jam shut but otherwise its great! With the chimney extension mine now hold like 7ml which is nice imo bit of a monster but nice for a desk mod not to have to refill often!
I have the Infinite regular version that comes with the Bell Tank and have never had any issues with it not being recognized using Kanthal or Ni 200. I did tubbyengineer's spring mod on mine when I got my TC mod.
Have you had the whole thing apart tightened up #9, it can come loose over time, also make sure #1 is tight too.
The modification in the Video is a bit drastic. I personally don't care much for any of those modifications that take out the spring completely. If the KF4 gets a little snotty and starts to gurgle a bit, I like to close off the juice control and vape the excess out then reopen the JC after the gurgle stops... This usually happens to me with a thick juice and you can't do that anymore once the spring is gone.
I always close off the juice control when I let my KF4's sit for a day or two, which might not apply to your situation.
Leaking is a usually vacuum issue and is most likely an o-ring somewhere in the chain with a nick out of it etc. I've never had to solve a leaking problem so I can't offer a solution.
Flooding can be bad wicking or an vacuum/o-ring issue as well.
I tried several different wicks with the tobeco ones. It didn't matter. The longest mine sits is overnight. The eh pro doesn't actively leak but after sitting overnight or for a period of time on it's side I get liquid on my hands when I pick it up. The tobeco ones worked good for a day or two and then started flooding and leaking badly.
You have to try making oring 16 bigger. I heard people here say to wrap floss under oring 16 and it stops the seeping to the air holes.
The orings I ordered are oversized. Someone had suggested getting a little bit bigger ones so that's what I orderd.
The thing I don't get about tubbyengineer's spring mod is you only improve the connectivity on one side if im understanding the process correctly (all you do is reduce the diameter at one end of the spring so if fits snug round the center post? correct?) that would leave the connectivity the same at the other end as there would be no change there....
And yes i've taken the whole thing a apart probably could do it blindfolded by now #1 is problematic unscrew when removing from mod boxes but i dont this is the issue especially since it should be screwed (same direction) in when attaching to a mod box and #9 is screwed in but not super tight to much and the juice control become rather hard to use to little and the whole base become loose so im rather certain that it perfect at the moment although i do find i have to tighten it on all my kf4 ever few months.
I dont know if the springless center pin mod is that extreme if anything goes wrong with either mod your KF4 needs new parts and neither are easy for me to get!
Yes that is all he does is make the connection tighter on the center post end. The spring sits flat against #11 so it should have good contact there, my version has the silver spring. Have you tried stretching it a small bit or does it look long enough to you?
I have never had #1 unscrew by taking it on or off any device and I have my #9 tight. I use a little non flavored no shine lip balm on the white o-rings #4 and #7 on both side before I put it back together. The juice control on my unit is stiff but not stiff enough that unscrewing the KF4 off a device it will turn the control all the way before actually unscrewing the 510 connection.
These have been my experiences with 2 KF4's, I am not quite sure what is causing your issue other than tightness or possible spring tension.
Pinching one end provides a solid contact to the pin so the other end of the spring doesn't matter because the contact is now with the afc screw and the base center pin. I've done this to all my KFv4's and they're rock solid now. Closing and opening the JC to fill makes no changes in ohms reading on my DNA40 and DNA200 mods.
I'll give the mod a go then now the spring is large with a brass? core i think and a silver? plating but it really could be alot of other things I sanded down the ends of the spring a little this is meant to provide greater surface area thus better connectivity. I get a bit of a juice buildup in the base over time nothing major but this may be half the problem i'll give everything an extra tighten hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for the help!
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