The Opus and Opus D with Evolv inside!
- Thread starter Drewsworld
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- nhaler
- Status
Also I'm in the process of stripping all the anodizing off my blue Opus. Will post pics once it's complete. Will I have the first raw aluminum Opus D? Probably not, but it'll be mine. 
Is there an Opus Owner's Manual online someplace? Can somebody post a link for me if such a thing exists? (I googled it but didn't come up with anything.)
It been awhile since I got my first one. But don't they come with a little piece of paper inside the box, giving a brief rundown? If not there's really not much an owners manual specifically for the Opus D could tell ya. There is however a lot of information about the DNA20 board out there in the interwebs.
You could always ask any questions here and I'm sure one of us helpful folks will chime in when we can.
Also my Opus has been 98% stripped of the anodizing and I friggin' love it! But...I'm pondering ways to get it safely into the sand blaster. It would be the dogs bollocks with a media blasted finish. 
I'll post a pic or 2 tomorrow if anyone is curious to see it. 
I'll post a pic or 2 tomorrow if anyone is curious to see it.
It was a heck of an ordeal, but my once blue Opus D is now sandblasted and beautiful.
Edit:
Here's the before picture. I kinda like it like this too and almost left it, but there was too much blue in various places and my OCD wouldn't let me.
Edit:
Here's the before picture. I kinda like it like this too and almost left it, but there was too much blue in various places and my OCD wouldn't let me.
Last edited:
Why thank you darlin' Kat. I was a nervous wreck while I was doing it. But I'm very happy with the finished product.
There are still a couple Blue ones in stock from last nights release...Just wanted to give all the people that were on the notification list a chance to get home and check their emails before announcing it here...Dig in....
Here's a question: I have 2 wall USB chargers, one of them has an output of 500 mAh and the other has an output of 1,000 mAh. Aside from the speed of the charge, is there any difference between the two? Are they both equally safe? Yes, I know nothing about this sort of thing, so thanks for any info!
Assuming both are 5V output, which is standard on USB chargers anyway, then the charge rate is the only difference
The battery packs in the Opus should have no trouble with the 1 amp charge current, but I don't know if the board in the Opus will regulate it down to 500 mA or not or if it's totally safe for the circuitry to charge at 1 amp. I think Drew might have to chime in on that one
The battery packs in the Opus should have no trouble with the 1 amp charge current, but I don't know if the board in the Opus will regulate it down to 500 mA or not or if it's totally safe for the circuitry to charge at 1 amp. I think Drew might have to chime in on that one
OH OH OH! *waving madly* I know the answer! Pick me! Pick me!
Yeah, no I don't.
(just a drive by hello)
Yeah, no I don't.
(just a drive by hello)
KJ is correct AGAIN!!! I actually have chargers as high as 2 amps that are fine and charge The Opus much quicker. The current batteries that are being used will be fine. You could have battery life issues with the batteries in the Opus E (Wooden Models) but not with the Ds. Thanks,
Drew
Drew
Just send my fee to the usual address
Maybe one of these days I'll be wrong on purpose and see if you catch it 
We are currently running rigorous testing (My Wife has one) on the new board to see how it holds up. Although we are confident in the past performance of the DNA, I am always reluctant to start production on new products.
Since many who are interested in using the DNA 30, will be using rebuildable atomizers and custom tanks on this unit we are exploring new more robust connectors to try and head off any issues.
People have a tendency of over-tightening them and the hard (normally stainless steel) 510 connectors, can crush the insulators in current versions of commercially available 510 connectors. We are designing a new one now. All devices may not sit exactly flush on The Opus (without adjusting floating pins on those devices) but it will be much more rugged than any connectors on the market.
Since many who are interested in using the DNA 30, will be using rebuildable atomizers and custom tanks on this unit we are exploring new more robust connectors to try and head off any issues.
People have a tendency of over-tightening them and the hard (normally stainless steel) 510 connectors, can crush the insulators in current versions of commercially available 510 connectors. We are designing a new one now. All devices may not sit exactly flush on The Opus (without adjusting floating pins on those devices) but it will be much more rugged than any connectors on the market.
I would prefer a floating center pin on the opus that would be awesome
I love my opus d as is but a floating pin would make it extremely nice
Sent from my iPhone using Popcorn
I love my opus d as is but a floating pin would make it extremely nice
Sent from my iPhone using Popcorn
Im Sorry I may not have made sense in my last post. Allow me to explain.
The Opus will NOT have a floating pin but will work better with RBA/RDAs that have them.
Unfortunately many people using Rebuildables now dont know how to build them.
There are so many on the market and they usually dont show up with specific instructions on the proper building methods.
Many people (myself included sometimes!) have to search YouTube to learn how to build some atomizers, and sometimes those making the videos are not always correct. Therefore people dont even know they have an adjustable center pin and when they screw their new atomizer on their device and and they want it to look nice and flush they end up crushing the silicone insulator in the 510 connector of their devices.
Atomizer connections on devices, have been an issue since the 901 (2008)!
There are some spring loaded connectors on the market but they require quite a bit of room inside the mod for proper installation and the spring is always suspect not to mention it adds resistance to the circuit, which is a big THUMBS DOWN when working with Sub Ohm coils.
Floating pins require access from both ends of the connector which would be impossible on many devices (including the Opus) almost impossible.
The Opus will NOT have a floating pin but will work better with RBA/RDAs that have them.
Unfortunately many people using Rebuildables now dont know how to build them.
There are so many on the market and they usually dont show up with specific instructions on the proper building methods.
Many people (myself included sometimes!) have to search YouTube to learn how to build some atomizers, and sometimes those making the videos are not always correct. Therefore people dont even know they have an adjustable center pin and when they screw their new atomizer on their device and and they want it to look nice and flush they end up crushing the silicone insulator in the 510 connector of their devices.
Atomizer connections on devices, have been an issue since the 901 (2008)!
There are some spring loaded connectors on the market but they require quite a bit of room inside the mod for proper installation and the spring is always suspect not to mention it adds resistance to the circuit, which is a big THUMBS DOWN when working with Sub Ohm coils.
Floating pins require access from both ends of the connector which would be impossible on many devices (including the Opus) almost impossible.
More robust connectors would be a great addition IMHO. I always used an adapter on my Darwin for fear of damaging the brass threads with frequent atty changes (that connector is still in great shape 3 years later BTW ;-) ) and I'm always very careful of my Opus connector for the same reason, particularly since so many RBAs (not just the tank ones, but the drippers, too) are so dang heavy. For me, flush-mounting when I can is more to extend the life of the 510 connectors of my mods than any aesthetic reasons
- Status
Similar threads
