Wonder what the next Opus will be named...you know...the one with the DNA30d...... Evolv released the 30d boards today..... yippy....
The Opus and Opus D with Evolv inside!
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I got one for Christmas, its a funky rust red, or maroon, some would consider extremely dark pink maybe. Has purple/pink letters. Wife offered to send it back, but I'm comfortable in my manhood decided to keep it.
I got my Opus D in the mail today and charged it up. I put my only topper on it (a protank2) and it would not fire. I took off the protank2 and tried edging the connector pin outwards a little bit with some tweezers (it was working fine and still does on my other DNA20 device). I managed to get the pin to sit more flush with the threads it is seated in on the PT2. When I put it back on the Opus D, it fired up this time.
The problem I'm having is that it is not giving me as big as a vape as my other DNA20 device. I'm assuming the connection from the protank2 to the Opus D is the issue here. The hit I am getting feels about half as big as the hit from my other device, and the vapor clouds and throat hit are about half as thick.
If it's just the connection between the Protank2 and the Opus, is this something that can be fixed with a different topper? I don't have any other toppers at this time, but I was thinking about picking up a K-fun lite or one of it's clones. If this is an issue that requires me to send it in to Nhaler or Opus, I do not mind doing so as I have my other device, but I would prefer to not have to be without two devices.
Edit: I just tried using a slim pen knife blade instead of the tweezers that I used the first time to lift the pin further out on the Protank2. Now the Opus seems to be working better. Is this a common issue? I think that I've read in this thread a ways back that some people were also having issues using certain toppers.
I now know that if I take the protank2 off of the Opus and put it on my other device, the pin on the PT2 will get pushed in a bit. This is why it is not making as good of a connection on the Opus. The 510 connection on my other device seems to be a tiny bit more shallow than the one on my Opus.
2nd Edit: It seemed to hit okay for maybe two rips after adjusting the protank2 connector pin, but now it is back to giving me half has much vape as before. Maybe it was just in my head that it seemed to work good for those first two hits? I'm pretty sure it's the protank2, but I do not have any other toppers to test it out with. Not sure what to do at this point. I will try a new replaceable atty on the PT2 and see if that will make a difference. I might have messed up my current PT2 connector pin by messing with it like I did. Ug.
3rd Edit: I'm fairly certain it is the PT2 connector, but I cannot be certain. I also just realized that I did not have to use a small pen blade to pull the PT2 connector out further. I just needed to take out the replaceable atomizer, and pull the PT2 510 connector pin out further with my fingers. Once put back together, the pin stuck out a little bit past the the edge of the threads. It's hitting noticeably better now, but it is not quite as good as I am used to. A new Topper is probably the best solution.
Any advice, suggestion, or more input on this matter would be much appreciated.
The problem I'm having is that it is not giving me as big as a vape as my other DNA20 device. I'm assuming the connection from the protank2 to the Opus D is the issue here. The hit I am getting feels about half as big as the hit from my other device, and the vapor clouds and throat hit are about half as thick.
If it's just the connection between the Protank2 and the Opus, is this something that can be fixed with a different topper? I don't have any other toppers at this time, but I was thinking about picking up a K-fun lite or one of it's clones. If this is an issue that requires me to send it in to Nhaler or Opus, I do not mind doing so as I have my other device, but I would prefer to not have to be without two devices.
Edit: I just tried using a slim pen knife blade instead of the tweezers that I used the first time to lift the pin further out on the Protank2. Now the Opus seems to be working better. Is this a common issue? I think that I've read in this thread a ways back that some people were also having issues using certain toppers.
I now know that if I take the protank2 off of the Opus and put it on my other device, the pin on the PT2 will get pushed in a bit. This is why it is not making as good of a connection on the Opus. The 510 connection on my other device seems to be a tiny bit more shallow than the one on my Opus.
2nd Edit: It seemed to hit okay for maybe two rips after adjusting the protank2 connector pin, but now it is back to giving me half has much vape as before. Maybe it was just in my head that it seemed to work good for those first two hits? I'm pretty sure it's the protank2, but I do not have any other toppers to test it out with. Not sure what to do at this point. I will try a new replaceable atty on the PT2 and see if that will make a difference. I might have messed up my current PT2 connector pin by messing with it like I did. Ug.
3rd Edit: I'm fairly certain it is the PT2 connector, but I cannot be certain. I also just realized that I did not have to use a small pen blade to pull the PT2 connector out further. I just needed to take out the replaceable atomizer, and pull the PT2 510 connector pin out further with my fingers. Once put back together, the pin stuck out a little bit past the the edge of the threads. It's hitting noticeably better now, but it is not quite as good as I am used to. A new Topper is probably the best solution.
Any advice, suggestion, or more input on this matter would be much appreciated.
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I'm convinced it is the protank2's connection. lol
I just tried an older PT2 atomizer with my protank2, and it didn't fire at all when I put it back on the Opus.
This time I used the pen blade to just slighty edge it forward because I think I messed the other atomizer up by taking it apart and using my fingers (it started to leak shortly after I did that). It seems to be hitting better now, so I am convinced that it's the connection with the protank2. Hopefully my minor adjustment to the PT2 atomizer will stay put, and not leak this time. I definitely need to upgrade my topper, although I don't want to invest in something more expensive if it's just going to have connection problems with the Opus. In any case, I would think the protank2 should work with this device.
I just tried an older PT2 atomizer with my protank2, and it didn't fire at all when I put it back on the Opus.
This time I used the pen blade to just slighty edge it forward because I think I messed the other atomizer up by taking it apart and using my fingers (it started to leak shortly after I did that). It seems to be hitting better now, so I am convinced that it's the connection with the protank2. Hopefully my minor adjustment to the PT2 atomizer will stay put, and not leak this time. I definitely need to upgrade my topper, although I don't want to invest in something more expensive if it's just going to have connection problems with the Opus. In any case, I would think the protank2 should work with this device.
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Sound like the topper is the issue.....if ya have a vape store close that has a vape bar you could go there and use one of their juice tester toppers and see how that goes.....or borrow a buddy's topper....
Burnside, can offer you a couple things to consider:
- You can try using a 510 to 510 adapter and that may make a difference.
- repeated prying of the atty's connector pin will eventually ruin that atty (protank), they are not designed to be pried apart. There is a gasket separating that pin (pin being the positive side of the connection) from the threads (negative side of the connection); this gasket's first function is as an insulator between posi/neg and also allows some very minimal "prying" and/or movement (can allow the pin to accommodate more shallow connections but may not "accommodate" a deeper one equally) and it is certainly NOT designed to be pried.
- The coil head assembly, on the protank, has a separate threading TO the protank base - make sure this coil head assembly is fully threaded snug to the protank base (piece that connects to the opus/device).
Device manufacturers use different "connectors" (510 female threads on the device) and each may vary a bit in depth. Similarly, different attys/cartos have different "connectors" (510 male threading on the atty/carto). These variations do not always match up perfectly for every atty/carto to every device connector. My first effort is to always try a 510 to 510 adapter between the device and the atty/carto and this usually solves the matter.
Earlier device connectors were often "unsealed" - meaning that if any juice got into the connector it could leak thru the connector and down into the device - and for those I most often used "sealed" 510 to 510 adapters to prevent any juice from possibly getting into the device. Newer device connectors are now more often "sealed" connectors that prevent any juice from leaking down into the device. I noticed that using a sealed vs unsealed adapter could (from some combinations) change the airflow which resulted in a change to the vapor character (flavor, TH, vapor). Airflow is an important variable (one of several but an important one) so you may choose to experiment and try the same exact setup but try using a sealed 510 to 510 adapter and then switch to an unsealed 510 to 510 adapter and see if you find a difference/preference. Everything vaping is subjective so no-one can tell you what is good/better/best as in the long run there is only YOUR good/better/best.
I know it may sound odd that I am recommending using an adapter; you might think 'why should I need an adapter if this is already 510 to 510'. The description above, articulating the various female and male "connectors" not being 100% consistent to exacting specification tolerances, is the reason and an adapter can often (more times than not) solve connection issues. It may not look as good as a flush mounted tank/device but it does solve this problem and there is no way to get every device manufacturer and every atty manufacturer to all use only "connectors" with more consistently exacting tolerances.
Hope something in this post helps you.
- You can try using a 510 to 510 adapter and that may make a difference.
- repeated prying of the atty's connector pin will eventually ruin that atty (protank), they are not designed to be pried apart. There is a gasket separating that pin (pin being the positive side of the connection) from the threads (negative side of the connection); this gasket's first function is as an insulator between posi/neg and also allows some very minimal "prying" and/or movement (can allow the pin to accommodate more shallow connections but may not "accommodate" a deeper one equally) and it is certainly NOT designed to be pried.
- The coil head assembly, on the protank, has a separate threading TO the protank base - make sure this coil head assembly is fully threaded snug to the protank base (piece that connects to the opus/device).
Device manufacturers use different "connectors" (510 female threads on the device) and each may vary a bit in depth. Similarly, different attys/cartos have different "connectors" (510 male threading on the atty/carto). These variations do not always match up perfectly for every atty/carto to every device connector. My first effort is to always try a 510 to 510 adapter between the device and the atty/carto and this usually solves the matter.
Earlier device connectors were often "unsealed" - meaning that if any juice got into the connector it could leak thru the connector and down into the device - and for those I most often used "sealed" 510 to 510 adapters to prevent any juice from possibly getting into the device. Newer device connectors are now more often "sealed" connectors that prevent any juice from leaking down into the device. I noticed that using a sealed vs unsealed adapter could (from some combinations) change the airflow which resulted in a change to the vapor character (flavor, TH, vapor). Airflow is an important variable (one of several but an important one) so you may choose to experiment and try the same exact setup but try using a sealed 510 to 510 adapter and then switch to an unsealed 510 to 510 adapter and see if you find a difference/preference. Everything vaping is subjective so no-one can tell you what is good/better/best as in the long run there is only YOUR good/better/best.
I know it may sound odd that I am recommending using an adapter; you might think 'why should I need an adapter if this is already 510 to 510'. The description above, articulating the various female and male "connectors" not being 100% consistent to exacting specification tolerances, is the reason and an adapter can often (more times than not) solve connection issues. It may not look as good as a flush mounted tank/device but it does solve this problem and there is no way to get every device manufacturer and every atty manufacturer to all use only "connectors" with more consistently exacting tolerances.
Hope something in this post helps you.
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Retird- There is a local e-cig store nearby, but I doubt that they will be helpful. They do not have a 'bar' where you can try and test stuff out. Their policy is, "you try, you buy". They specialize in d-kang juices, their top of the line device is a SID, and their top of the line topper is the protank2. Not much there in the way of vaping knowledge and vaping tech. They mostly cater to locals who seem to not use the internet or do online shopping. Prices are also over the top. I paid $25 bucks for the PT2 there.
There are a few people I know of who vape in my area that would probably let me test out some different toppers if I got in touch with them.
NebulaBrot- Thanks for the great input and suggestions! I kind of figured everything you just told me, and that definitely makes me feel more at ease about the situation. When I put on the older used atty on my protank with the tiniest adjustment to the pin (I just barely lifted it out a tiny bit..not like how I manhandled the first one), and then put it on the Opus, it worked normal. Without a doubt it is the small variances in the connectors and the protank that are the issues here. For now, it's hitting like a champ (although the atty I am using needs to be changed because it is kind of old now). I am going to look into a KFL or Russian 99%. I just want to get a good topper that will work with my Opus. Any suggestions on an upgrade would be greatly appreciated. Other than my protank2 connector issues, I am loving this device! I've primarily been a Darwin user, but I am really liking the use of a topper on these more compact DNA20 devices. The form factor on the Opus is fantastic.
Sorry for my long winded post from last night. Based on my frequent edits, you can tell that I was fiend-vaping while testing out my devices and protank.
By the way, NebulaBrot... Your posts are some of the best, most informative posts that I see here at the forums. I remember gaining a lot of knowledge because of your insightful posts when I first got into the Darwin over a year ago. Thanks for being a great source of knowledge and Vapor theory/philosophy!
There are a few people I know of who vape in my area that would probably let me test out some different toppers if I got in touch with them.
NebulaBrot- Thanks for the great input and suggestions! I kind of figured everything you just told me, and that definitely makes me feel more at ease about the situation. When I put on the older used atty on my protank with the tiniest adjustment to the pin (I just barely lifted it out a tiny bit..not like how I manhandled the first one), and then put it on the Opus, it worked normal. Without a doubt it is the small variances in the connectors and the protank that are the issues here. For now, it's hitting like a champ (although the atty I am using needs to be changed because it is kind of old now). I am going to look into a KFL or Russian 99%. I just want to get a good topper that will work with my Opus. Any suggestions on an upgrade would be greatly appreciated. Other than my protank2 connector issues, I am loving this device! I've primarily been a Darwin user, but I am really liking the use of a topper on these more compact DNA20 devices. The form factor on the Opus is fantastic.
Sorry for my long winded post from last night. Based on my frequent edits, you can tell that I was fiend-vaping while testing out my devices and protank.
By the way, NebulaBrot... Your posts are some of the best, most informative posts that I see here at the forums. I remember gaining a lot of knowledge because of your insightful posts when I first got into the Darwin over a year ago. Thanks for being a great source of knowledge and Vapor theory/philosophy!
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The Opus D is AWESOME! ...I just wanted to let new readers and newbie vapers know that. All ecigs are suspect to issues based on all the different toppers, and variances in their connectors as NebulaBrot mentioned above. Don't let my experience deter you from picking up an Opus D. This device is truly a piece of great tech, and the stealthy form factor is great for inconspicuous vaping in public areas. I am very happy with my purchase
If THIS had been what you said, I would still tip my baseball cap to you, 'Brat. Awesome post!
By the way, NebulaBrot... Your posts are some of the best, most informative posts that I see here at the forums. I remember gaining a lot of knowledge because of your insightful posts when I first got into the Darwin over a year ago. Thanks for being a great source of knowledge and Vapor theory/philosophy!
Burnside, you are soooooo right. If there any posts I want to read (and re-read) about vaping, I will always look for his. Helpful to the max, clear as day, and unemotionally involved in being right.
the 'Brat!!!
Not so sure about "right", perhaps a bit experienced. "unemotionally involved", probably - passionately compassionate maybe?Anyway, thanks for kind words
Happy
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Put in a new atomizer last night before bed, and today the Opus D is vaping like a CHAMP!
My battery just died. I had this charged up friday night, vaped with it yesterday until late last night, and then for another 2.5 hours today.. Not bad at all. It was vaping perfectly fine, and the battery icon showed about 1/3 full. The I looked about ten minutes later, and the icon showed that it was empty. Then I hit it once (good), and then the second hit was half as as thick. Then it just shut off on the third try. I didn't think the battery would just completely die that quickly. Is this normal?
On my other device, I need to drain the battery in order to get the ohms to read again. It's currently not picking up the ohms reading, and I either need to disconnect the battery manually or drain it until it is completely dead in order to reset it (a common fix for a common DNA20 issue). When the battery in my other device gets to the point of depletion, and the device no longer hits as good, it still doesn't just shut off completely. In order to completely drain the battery, it takes a while longer once it no longer has enough power to vape with. This is why I am wondering about my Opus D just completely powering down like the way it did so suddenly. I'm sure it is all about the batteries in the different devices... I'm just curious if it's normal for the Opus D to completely shut down within seconds of the battery icon first showing that it is empty.
On my other device, I need to drain the battery in order to get the ohms to read again. It's currently not picking up the ohms reading, and I either need to disconnect the battery manually or drain it until it is completely dead in order to reset it (a common fix for a common DNA20 issue). When the battery in my other device gets to the point of depletion, and the device no longer hits as good, it still doesn't just shut off completely. In order to completely drain the battery, it takes a while longer once it no longer has enough power to vape with. This is why I am wondering about my Opus D just completely powering down like the way it did so suddenly. I'm sure it is all about the batteries in the different devices... I'm just curious if it's normal for the Opus D to completely shut down within seconds of the battery icon first showing that it is empty.
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^^^The unit just shutting off like that, is not normal at all. Both of my Opus's take forever to fully drain. When the battery hits it's lowest charge, it starts pulsing. I think all DNA20 mods do that. I really wish mine would just completely die like that. Both of mine have been reading 0 ohms for almost 2 months now. It just takes so dang long to fully drain them. 
My other device does the pulsating and also takes forever to die. I wonder why my Opus just cut out like that? It seems to be vaping fine right now, but I will see if it happens again.
So I charged the Opus D again last night, and I vaped it for about an hour. I vaped with it all day today and this evening, and about ten minutes ago it just stopped vaping and shut off. Ten minutes before that happened, the battery was reading at half full. There was no pulsating or anything like that. My second to last hit was normal, my last hit was half as much as the one before that, and then the screen went black.
This doesn't seem right to me. It worked all day and this evening just fine until it just shut off and the screen went black about ten minutes ago. It's plugged in and charging right now.
This doesn't seem right to me. It worked all day and this evening just fine until it just shut off and the screen went black about ten minutes ago. It's plugged in and charging right now.
Burnside...Personally I'd hop over here Opus Vapor and send Roger a message about it. Just to see what he has to say about it. Could be something you can figure out on your own. If not you might have to send it in for repair (sucks I know). But it's better to be safe than sorry.
Ty burn for the subtle solution to my opus no longer reading ohms....problem is that I can't live without it long enough for it to die : (
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Burnside...Personally I'd hop over here Opus Vapor and send Roger a message about it. Just to see what he has to say about it. Could be something you can figure out on your own. If not you might have to send it in for repair (sucks I know). But it's better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks for the link, Drew. I just sent them an email, so I will have to see what they say about it. My Opus D works great, and I get a full day of vaping and then some out of a full battery charge, but once it gets low (battery icon shows 1/3 full), it will just shut off.
I was wondering if this was possibly an update or a 'fix' done to this last run because of all the ohms reading issues the DNA20 has. If you have no ohms reading, you normally have to either disconnect the battery, or drain the battery completely for the ohms to read again. If there was a software update to make the battery disconnect when it gets close to being drained, that would make resetting the omhs much easier than trying to drain the battery manually. I tried draining the battery on my XPV DNA20D for this reason, and it was taking way to long. I couldn't wait any longer for it to drain so I plugged it back in. Never had an issue with the Opus D reading the ohms of my Protank2, but then again, after vaping all day with it, it just shuts itself completely off.
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