Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

I haven't played around enough with Lemo to be an authority, maybe Croak or someone else knows. I just remember reading about the AFC Fix but never got around to it because I didn't have the flask then.

OK thanks - I'm trying to find the threads now. I'm guessing it's just a case of putting a 510 drip style o-ring either above or below the AFC, as I see some people are doing to stop it moving around when they have it set somewhere other than fully open. I had similar problems with that when I first got the tank, mine was set fully open, but tightened so hard that when I tried to close it, it ended up turning that entire screw and rotating the build deck I had to undo the whole lot and start again.

That AFC was always the Lemo 1's biggest weak point, but I hadn't realised it was even worse and also affecting connectivity. Still, at least there's a fix! Thanks again.

 

[Tpat591]

Bloke here is part of it:

I will give you the quick "what I had to do with the Lemo" because I don't know where I last posted.

OK here we go:

1. The Lemo 510 pin is slightly recessed and didn't make a great connection for me. So you take out the 510 connector screw and add a 1mm thick X 2mm diameter o-ring in the 510 port and put the center pin screw back in and torque it down good for a good electrical connection. After you do this the 510 center pin should stick up around 1/32 - 1/16 above the threads of the 510 connector.

2. Now this was mine and I don't know how many others had any difficulty in this area. That said wen you take the fill cap off you will discover that there are two posts one on the main body of the Atty and one on the fill cap. These post make the positive connection complete when you put the fill cap back on. It will make more sense when you have one in front of you. On mine I had to polish the two posts with steel wool to clean them so they would make a good electrical connection. They didn't look dirty or anything like that what I think is that they may have been case hardened and that process left a very thin oxide on the contacts. For me this made my DNA40 resistance jump around a little. Cleaning them eliminated the problem completely.

3. None of the potential problems I mentioned would be problems using Kanthal. But when you are building circuits down around 0.15 ohms it doesn't take much to upset the apple cart.

There is still something with afc too.

 

[TheBloke]

EDIT: Doh, just saw you posted it too! Thanks, and that's a much succincter summary Will leave these as further reference.

OK thanks TPat, I found some discussions on it.

For the reference of anyone else having problems, or thinking of using/getting an ELeaf, here's a bunch of posts on it from the Official DNA 40 thread a few months ago:

After playing with it for a while I started getting a "Check Atomizer" message.

I discovered that the 510 pin on the Lemo was not extended enough to make a good contact. I correct the 510 pin (a known Lemo quirk) and it has stopped failing to register as a Ni200 and is just work like a Swiss Watch.

Heheh here's an great tip: go buy a .... load of 2mm x 1mm orings. 3mm x 1mm works too.

The dna 40 doesn't work so nicely with atties with adjustable 510. But if you shove these tiny ORINGs into the adjustable portion, then torque it down, your resistance won't fluctuate anymore.

Are you talking about adding O-rings under the head of the 510 screw or someplace inside the Lemo cap?

Under the head of the screw.

The biggest issues with most 510 is that the tolerance isn't tight, and there's a ton of lateral movement between the 510 pin and whatever it screws onto. This messes up the resistance. So if you really need to extend the pin, pop the orings under the head and torque down. I use 1 on my erlk, and 2 on my r91. Rock solid and consistent resistance and vapes exactly how I expect it to

I had the same issue with the Lemo 510 pin and VS.
I took out the 510 screw and cleaned the oil off, I missed in the initial cleaning.
Tightened the screw all the way in. Now it makes a good connection.
Another spot to to check is the positive post pin under the "connecting base", mine had some burs in the slot.
So far this has eliminated jumping in and out of TP.

Bringing this post back to the front as this was the problem I had also.
I have mine in a FT Hana clone box using the supplied 510 with adjustable positive screw, I installed a 2 x 1 mm o-ring under the head of the screw so it would resist turning with the atty being screwed in and out.

The o-rings that are on the little key chain screwdriver that was shipped with your Lemo fit the 510 screw perfect.

 

[dwcraig1]

So now I'm vaping my Lemo Drop with Ni200, but not without near disasters. First my previously twisted dual strand nickel acquired some rubber particles off this pad I build on. Then the sharp edges of the 510 screw of the Lemo want to spin the 510 in my Hcigar DNA40. I used jewelers files on that screw. All is well now, I solved my connectivity in another manner prior to today, it doesn't involve use of an o-ring. I may post about that later as I need to take a few pics of it first. I have a 3 mm id coil of two strands of 30 gauge twisted nickel, about 11.5 wraps @ 0.14Ω, 30 watts, 450F. No TP display so far.

Edit: getting TP on display @ 30 watts, turned down to 24 watts no TP message. About time to break out the Dremel and enlarge them juice channels a bit. This is after chain vaping it.

 

[Tpat591]

WierdWillie: I took the liberty of giving you a starting point for that prodedure below (I felt bad about trying to Rope-a-Dope you into doing it).

I'm guessing at most of this, but having done it yourself, you should be able to edit it for accuracy to eliminate my many errors & we can illustrate it with clips from yours & Damped's pics to set up a guide in a new thread to help others contemplating the repair. Just a thought.

Removed 24 Step Procedure for effort that apparently did not work

 

[WeirdWillie]

Here's an update on the Waidea VF clone.
First I attempted to convert the existing 510 to a spring loaded 510 using the guts from a Fatdaddy v4 and that was an epic failure, because even though it will thread in, it is too long and the center pin will bottom out onto the battery positive board under the 510 assembly.

All is not lost however on the quest for spring loadedness!!
As it turns out when you remove the existing 510 assembly altogether, a fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly will work like a charm, and give you enough room after the center pin has been extended and not bottom out on battery board underneath.
So let me reiterate the fatdaddy v4 spring loaded guts will screw into the existing 510 but is too long to work, the guts from a fatdaddy v3 will not screw into the existing 510 because the existing 510 inside diameter is slightly larger than the v3 insulator threads, so all attempts fail on converting the existing 510 is a failure.
But replacing the entire assembly with a fatdaddy v3 shorty WILL work.

And while I had everything apart and rooting around I decided to go ahead and convert it to one of the latest authentic DNA40 board since I already had one.

Once I got both the Waidea board and the Kangxin boards completely removed, I did thoroughly inspect both boards under a magnifying glass and every marking I can find on both boards are identical in every way lending more creditability to the theory that the boards are being sourced from the same place.

 

[Tpat591]

Naturally! Now there is a Rope-a-Dope that backfired big time!

 

[TheBloke]

TPat could you put that guide back up again? I have been on my phone and didn't get a good look at it. While the conversion might not work as planned, it still looked useful in just for basic stuff like how to get the sled out. I definitely want to take a better look at my 510 and any assistance towards that would be much appreciated (and needed). Thanks!

Sent by fondling my slab.

 

[Tpat591]

TPat could you put that guide back up again? I have been on my phone and didn't get a good look at it. While the conversion might not work as planned, it still looked useful in just for basic stuff like how to get the sled out. I definitely want to take a better look at my 510 and any assistance towards that would be much appreciated (and needed). Thanks!

I don't know that that can be trusted because I was guessing my way through it. You've got a little time then it comes down again.

 

[WeirdWillie]

TPat could you put that guide back up again? I have been on my phone and didn't get a good look at it. While the conversion might not work as planned, it still looked useful in just for basic stuff like how to get the sled out. I definitely want to take a better look at my 510 and any assistance towards that would be much appreciated (and needed). Thanks!

Sent by fondling my slab.

Real easy.
Remove the 4 screws from the top cap.
carefully pull cap up, with a pair of needle nose pliers unscrew the big odd looking silver nut
once that's off the center pin assembly will come out.

This will give you enough room to now remove that horrible half ... attempt of a ground.
now your top cap should be in your hand.
If you want a spring loaded 510 take a 1/2" (13mm) wrench and remove the brass nut
pop the existing 510 assembly out, and replace with a Fatdaddy v3 "shorty" assembly

De-solder the existing stationary center pin
From the Fatdaddy v3 slide the little brass center pin nut over the center pin wire followed by tiny oring, then the spring.
now solder in the Fatdaddy v3 center pin
I sandwiched the brass ground ring on mine between 2 brass nutts instead of between the bottom of the top cap and a brass nut this allowed me to tighten the crap out of it insuring a good ground.
Oh and also i sanded the backside and the cup of the top cap to make sure there were no anodization in the area that could cause issues.

If you want to pull the sled and chip.... !! I wouldn't recommend this for the inexperienced !!, but with a small screwdriver gently pry between the up and down buttons and the button caps to pop them loose from the buttons.
with a pair of needle nose pliers gently pull the fire button cap out (it will come all the way off)

once you have the caps out of the way, you can now pull the sled, be careful not to loose your up and down button caps, and take care not to rip the two wire out running down to the usb charger.

Everything is jammed in rather snug, so be careful.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Here's what the Fatdaddy v3 Shorty looks like installed.


Here's a pic of the working authentic DNA40 board


I must say I do like the authentic instant preheat over the delay of the clones
especially coming out of deep sleep.

 

[TheBloke]

Wonderful, thanks so much Willie! It's nearly 6am so I haven't read it through properly tonight/this morning but will do when I'm up again. I might have a go at that tomorrow.

 

[Tpat591]

Here's an update on the Waidea VF clone.
First I attempted to convert the existing 510 to a spring loaded 510 using the guts from a Fatdaddy v4 and that was an epic failure, because even though it will thread in, it is too long and the center pin will bottom out onto the battery positive board under the 510 assembly.

All is not lost however on the quest for spring loadedness!!
As it turns out when you remove the existing 510 assembly altogether, a fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly will work like a charm, and give you enough room after the center pin has been extended and not bottom out on battery board underneath.
So let me reiterate the fatdaddy v4 spring loaded guts will screw into the existing 510 but is too long to work, the guts from a fatdaddy v3 will not screw into the existing 510 because the existing 510 inside diameter is slightly larger than the v3 insulator threads, so all attempts fail on converting the existing 510 is a failure.
But replacing the entire assembly with a fatdaddy v3 shorty WILL work.

And while I had everything apart and rooting around I decided to go ahead and convert it to one of the latest authentic DNA40 board since I already had one.

Once I got both the Waidea board and the Kangxin boards completely removed, I did thoroughly inspect both boards under a magnifying glass and every marking I can find on both boards are identical in every way lending more creditability to the theory that the boards are being sourced from the same place.

Out of curiosity, having had both the V4 & the V3 Shorty in the unit What is your opinion on the V4 Shorty? Do you think that would fit or do all the shortys use the same insulator threading? Would have thought they all would have been 7mm x 0.5mm.

 

[Croak]

So after faffing about with my Waidea all day, I've come to the conclusion that having a very secure connection between the top plate and the main body is essential for proper grounding. Ran a solder line around the 510 cable so there's a solid electrical connection between it and the brass nut, and was still having weak battery issues.

So I roughed up the top of the chassis and the bottom of the plate with a razor blade and Scotch plastic scouring pad, cleaned it all real good with isopropyl alcohol, and then used a good quality T5 tipped driver and really snugged that bugger down, using the old lug-nut method, tightening opposite corners in a star pattern, while putting a lot of downward pressure on the plate with my fingers.

Working like a champ now, three tanks later.

 

[Croak]

Out of curiosity, having had both the V4 & the V3 Shorty in the unit What is your opinion on the V4 Shorty? Do you think that would fit or do all the shortys use the same insulator threading?

You don't want to use the V4 Shorty on this. Top plate on all the V4's is 1mm, too thin. The V3's are 2mm, perfect since the milled area for the 510 on a Vapor Flask is ~2mm deep, as it was, well, made with a FDV V3 Shorty in mind to start with.

 

[dwcraig1]

So after faffing about with my Waidea all day, I've come to the conclusion that having a very secure connection between the top plate and the main body is essential for proper grounding. Ran a solder line around the 510 cable so there's a solid electrical connection between it and the brass nut, and was still having weak battery issues.

So I roughed up the top of the chassis and the bottom of the plate with a razor blade and Scotch plastic scouring pad, cleaned it all real good with isopropyl alcohol, and then used a good quality T5 tipped driver and really snugged that bugger down, using the old lug-nut method, tightening opposite corners in a star pattern, while putting a lot of downward pressure on the plate with my fingers.

Working like a champ now, three tanks later.

So it the ground cable on the 510, the way it comes, tight or is it just kind of wrapped around where it can move?

 

[Croak]

So it the ground cable on the 510, the way it comes, tight or is it just kind of wrapped around where it can move?

It's tight but can be moved with some pressure on it, like with a screwdriver blade. Unlikely there's much if any movement in the actual operation of the device, it stays put on its own. I'm getting more and more certain that the 510 ground is mostly fine the way it ships, it's the top plate that's used as a chassis ground that's the real problem.

Real test? Device won't even power on if the top plate is not pressed down firmly against the main body. It's an active ground. Kangxin did it differently (better?), having a dedicated internal chassis ground via that ring terminal.

 

[dwcraig1]

It's tight but can be moved with some pressure on it, like with a screwdriver blade. Unlikely there's much if any movement in the actual operation of the device, it stays put on its own. I'm getting more and more certain that the 510 ground is mostly fine the way it ships, it's the top plate that's used as a chassis ground that's the real problem.

Real test? Device won't even power on if the top plate is not pressed down firmly against the main body. It's an active ground. Kangxin did it differently (better?), having a dedicated internal chassis ground via that ring terminal.

Thanks, that follows pretty much how I was figuring it also.
Kx (probably better) but that's the extent of better I'd say.

 

[Croak]

I agree, but I still like the Kangxin black finish a lot better. I've tried to be careful with this Waidea and it's never left the house, but it's already picking up nicks and scratches just from use. None inflicted during surgery.

And damn those fingerprints and smudges are bad!

Get the silver Waidea if you're in the market folks, you won't regret it.

 

[sando7]

finally got my shipping notice for my Waidea, hope i get a decent one.