Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Did you get a e-mail from them? I look on the USA site and it say's my order shipped and gave a tracking # but no e-mail yet. This is the first time I have ordered from them.
remember the kangxins from yesteryear....you know the down button pushing in on some devices....make that +1 
still useable but disaster is inevitable...
still useable but disaster is inevitable...
Sooner than it takes mine to get to Dallas shenzen China! [emoji22]
I ordered mine from China thinking I would get mine quicker since usa was not shipping.... So looks like I made a bad decision. Not the first one (you know the rest)....
might be a dumb question, did you give the 510 a good cleaning with ISO & a Q-Tip, i have a couple of hanna no logo DNA40 clones that do the same thing....after a good cleaning they are normal again.....or it could be a grounding prob....wish ya the best tho!
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yep i prob would already have mine in my hands if i ordered from slo-tek w/extra svc, honey-moon & all
Yse the v4 shorty is too long and therefore will not work.
Guting the v4 and trying to retrofit the existing 510 with fd v4 won't work either still too long and will bottom out on the top of the battery positive board with an atty screwed in.
The only one I had that will work is a Fatdaddy v3 shorty trust me I tried everything I had.
The waidea even has the "v" notch boss milled in to hold and line up and hold the fd v3 .
I got an email with tracking number but the number isn't showing anything on USPS yet. Should actually ship Monday, but nice to know someone's working on getting them out asap now.
-Treeburner
Just so I'm 100% sure, could you confirm that it's this one? Fat Daddy Vapes 510 V3 Short Body.
I'm sure it must be, just want to be extra careful!
And are there any accessories you would recommend getting with it, or should the provided items be enough? Like whether I might need extra washers or anything, or if it's worth having a spare pin maybe.
I read your installation guide - thanks so much again for that! - and nothing extra is mentioned, but if there's a chance I might need something extra (like whether it's possible I might damage the pin somehow, perhaps, because I'm inexperienced and suck!) I'd rather spend a little extra and get it up front, than find I need it half way through and have to wait another day or two to receive it.
If you order from China it will ship immediately, from Focalecig US warehouse this run is sold out, but the next group arriving on the 23rd may still be available, check with Focalecig.
- Treeburner
This sounds like a classic 510 connection issue and the way Kangxin does their 510 it wouldn't supprise me.
I'd pop the top and check the wiring connections to the 510.
It my be a stupid question but you did try adjusting the 510 screw out a little?
I'm 99% certain I won't try this, but has anyone thought of upgrading the USB charger board to a 1A version? Or even 2A?
I'm seeing a 1A board on the same site I'll probably buy the FD v3 shorty: Micro USB Battery Charging Module Charger Board.
Would I be able to de-solder the board micro USB port on such a board and wire it up to the existing one in the VF? I don't think the actual port is different between 0.5A and 1A chargers, just the board?
Though actually if I were to attempt such a thing I'd probably try to find a board which already expects off-board port like the one already in the VF, rather than having to try and re purpose a built in board like that..
EDIT: Though actually maybe I need a special board for dual battery? That makes no mention of it. I'm really unlikely to try this Just curious more than anything.
I'm seeing a 1A board on the same site I'll probably buy the FD v3 shorty: Micro USB Battery Charging Module Charger Board.
Would I be able to de-solder the board micro USB port on such a board and wire it up to the existing one in the VF? I don't think the actual port is different between 0.5A and 1A chargers, just the board?
Though actually if I were to attempt such a thing I'd probably try to find a board which already expects off-board port like the one already in the VF, rather than having to try and re purpose a built in board like that..
EDIT: Though actually maybe I need a special board for dual battery? That makes no mention of it. I'm really unlikely to try this
Just curious more than anything.
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Just so I'm 100% sure, could you confirm that it's this one? Fat Daddy Vapes 510 V3 Short Body.
I'm sure it must be, just want to be extra careful!
And are there any accessories you would recommend getting with it, or should the provided items be enough? Like whether I might need extra washers or anything, or if it's worth having a spare pin maybe.
I read your installation guide - thanks so much again for that! - and nothing extra is mentioned, but if there's a chance I might need something extra (like whether it's possible I might damage the pin somehow, perhaps, because I'm inexperienced and suck!) I'd rather spend a little extra and get it up front, than find I need it half way through and have to wait another day or two to receive it.
Yes that's the one
NOT THIS ONE Fat Daddy Vapes 510 v4 Connector
So did you complete the upgrade? You actually have a spring loaded 510 now? How does it work?
I can tell you my flask had a 1 amp charger and I left it in when I retrofit the genuine dna20 board inside. It works fine. I've never seen a 2 amp charging board, but I'm sure they are out there somewhere.I'm 99% certain I won't try this, but has anyone thought of upgrading the USB charger board to a 1A version? Or even 2A?
I'm seeing a 1A board on the same site I'll probably buy the FD v3 shorty: Micro USB Battery Charging Module Charger Board.
Would I be able to de-solder the board micro USB port on such a board and wire it up to the existing one in the VF? I don't think the actual port is different between 0.5A and 1A chargers, just the board?
Though actually if I were to attempt such a thing I'd probably try to find a board which already expects off-board port like the one already in the VF, rather than having to try and re purpose a built in board like that..
EDIT: Though actually maybe I need a special board for dual battery? That makes no mention of it. I'm really unlikely to try this
The 1 amp charge boards work with the authentic board just fine, and considering this shipped with a clone chip originally, I'd guess the 1 amp should would with those boards too.
I didn't even attempt to try and get at the usb charger it's stuffed down into a hole and secured in with a rubber bushing, I didn't take any pictures, but trust me it may not be worth it.
If it were a single battery mod.... maybe, but with dual 25R's that's 5000mah I can vape 2+ days.
I work 16-18 hour days and can vape all day then plug my flask in at night, next morning they're topped back up, I can't understand why you would even need a larger charging board, unless it's going to double as a car booster
..5a is plenty for maintaining your batteries, if you're trying to charge batteries I recommend you get a Nitecore D4 and extra sets of batteries.
OK, thanks!
I don't know if there are 2A charger boards available to buy easily, but I know it's possible with dual 18650 mods because that's what my Smok M80 has. It has fixed internal battery, but those are actually 2 x 18650 which they just made non-user-replaceable, and the charge port is 2A.
But I didn't even think about whether the ChiDNA40 board itself could supply the power necessary for that. Good to know it supports 1A, if I were ever to do this (which I won't), I'd just use 1A even if I could find a 2A board.
I didn't even attempt to try and get at the usb charger it's stuffed down into a hole and secured in with a rubber bushing, I didn't take any pictures, but trust me it may not be worth it.
If it were a single battery mod.... maybe, but with dual 25R's that's 5000mah I can vape 2+ days.
I work 16-18 hour days and can vape all day then plug my flask in at night, next morning they're topped back up, I can't understand why you would even need a larger charging board, unless it's going to double as a car booster
.5a is plenty for maintaining your batteries, if you're trying to charge batteries I recommend you get a Nitecore D4 and extra sets of batteries.
Yeah you're quite right it's almost certainly not worth it.
On the two days when I used the Flask exclusively, I got roughly 14 hours vaping time each day out of 2 x Samsung 25R. I guess I chain vape more than most
(And the Flask won't take them lower than 3.2-3.3V)I do already have two sets of batteries and the EFest Luc v4 charger - I rushed out and bought the second set and the charger from a B+M the day my Flask arrived, as for the first few hours of failure I was unsure if it was the batteries, as they had just arrived brand new as well, and I wanted to try a different set as well as be able to check the voltages.
Yeah I have no real problem with charging, and in that respect this is my most convenient mod because it's the only mod I have so far with replaceable batteries. I always charge a set as soon as I remove it, so when the current batteries run out I can put in a freshly charged pair instantly, then re-charge the ones I just took out.
So no, I have no real need for this at all. I just figured there could be a time when I'm away and forgot my second batteries, or am on a road trip and want to charge it in the car, or I buy a second 18650 mod and start using my second set of batteries for that instead of having two sets for the VF.
But I'm not going to do it - if you say it's a pain in the arze, I'm not even going to think of trying it
But thanks for satisfying my curiosity!
@dwcraig1
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush.
I put a 1/4" bolt through it (the complete v3 shorty), secured with nuts, put into an electric drill and ran it against a file down to 18.5 mm.
Nice thx for the tip so you haven't reduced the horizontal thickness of the 22mm washer I was thinking about that but maybe it's too difficult to do and I want a good result so first I will see how it looks, 0.65 is not so much but it is not flush and the main reason for the replacement was"a flush mounted atty" lol or maybe better I choose for a mounting without the washer, hmm..... I must think about that a little more, when it's possible to reduce the horizontal thickness without destroying the upper surface that would be the best option I think, ah we will see when the FD arrives how it looks on the FV, in the mean time mine fire-button (sometimes not always) refuses to work so maybe I'm gonna replace that switch also if I can find one.
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush.
I put a 1/4" bolt through it (the complete v3 shorty), secured with nuts, put into an electric drill and ran it against a file down to 18.5 mm.
Nice thx for the tip so you haven't reduced the horizontal thickness of the 22mm washer I was thinking about that but maybe it's too difficult to do and I want a good result so first I will see how it looks, 0.65 is not so much but it is not flush and the main reason for the replacement was"a flush mounted atty" lol or maybe better I choose for a mounting without the washer, hmm..... I must think about that a little more, when it's possible to reduce the horizontal thickness without destroying the upper surface
that would be the best option I think, ah we will see when the FD arrives how it looks on the FV, in the mean time mine fire-button (sometimes not always) refuses to work so maybe I'm gonna replace that switch also if I can find one.
Yes that is correct I removed the existing fixed 510 and replaced it with a Fatdaddy v3 shorty let me repeat v3 shorty, the v4 shorty is too long and WILL NOT WORK !!
While I was in there I decided to go ahead and replace the Waidea board with the newest authentic DNA40 revision too.
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