What new mod and tank to buy?
- Thread starter MC Vape
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
They have an Eleaf 100w TC now if you're trying to be brand loyal. I like the centurion by wismec it has 100w TC and can run off a single 26650 battery or a single 18650. If you want to go for ridiculous power I'd go for the RX200 or the Kooper Primus, the RX goes up to 200w, 250w with an update and the new kooper is 300w so lots of power there. As for tanks if you get the TF-V8 it comes with a very nice RBA so the low ohmage your talking about won't be too big of a deal as you can use that and build whatever ohm you want. You are right though, it's a juice guzzler. Of the tanks you listed my favorite is the crown, but not for rebuilding..for that I'd go with just the propitiatory coils.
I currently run a Wismec RX200 with either the Smok TF-V8 with the octuple coil. Or the Alpha BFT RTA by Ohmega, with two juggernaut coils running at .12 ohms. Those two tanks have spoiled me and now anything above .2 ohms feels to weak to be honest.
I currently run a Wismec RX200 with either the Smok TF-V8 with the octuple coil. Or the Alpha BFT RTA by Ohmega, with two juggernaut coils running at .12 ohms. Those two tanks have spoiled me and now anything above .2 ohms feels to weak to be honest.
Thanks. I'm afraid of very low ohms cuz I dont want my battery explode in my mouth. Im not sure what amps batts go with low ohm coil
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just a bit of Ohm's law here.
To find out how many amps your drawing use this equation.
I = V/R
Where I is current as measured in amps, V is power measured in volts, and R is resistance measured in Ohms.
Then you just check that with the battery Amp rating. Be careful of rewraps and misleading labels though, and check on the forums for good batteries with trusted benchmark results.
I do understand the fear of using too low of an Ohm coil though, but as long as you have high amp batteries and watch what your Ohms are at you should be fine, we are all as safe as we make ourselves. Good on you though for keeping safety in mind!
Consider the Eleaf TC100W.
I have three of them. The "hidden" switch is great, you never have to fumble for the fire button.
It takes two 18650 batteries, in paralel. Runs on 1 battery or two. (75 watts max with single nattery, 100 watts max with two batteries)
It has TC, but you can use it in the wattage mode.
I have three of them. The "hidden" switch is great, you never have to fumble for the fire button.
It takes two 18650 batteries, in paralel. Runs on 1 battery or two. (75 watts max with single nattery, 100 watts max with two batteries)
It has TC, but you can use it in the wattage mode.
Good to know. That one is on my list too. To be honest with you some people say 100W is not enough but I use my MVP Pro which is 60W and I never went up more than 35W. So if most of you guys think 100W is enough than I can definitely go with Eleaf.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A bit late to the party, but thought I could add my 
.
Of tanks you mentioned, I have the Griffin 25 and just got the TFV8. Both work great. On the Griffin, it comes with two plugs so you can build about anything you want on it. One plugs both the air and juice channels while the other plugs the juice channel, but leaves the air channel open for side flow air as well. I haven't had the chance to play with it though since the dual build is working just fine.
I just got the TFV8 a couple days ago, wicked the pre-installed claptons on the build deck, and find it very hard to put it down.
There are plenty of mods to pick from, but if you get the TFV8, I am finding the sweet spot to be at 125w (I never went above 85 before), so consider that when picking a mod. Even if you vape well below 100w, the battery life is nice on a 200w dual 18650 mod. I'll be able to hear the boo's, but I am liking the Sig or Fuchai 213. Then again, I tried TC and have reverted back to power mode for the most part. Another mod worth a look is the new IPV400. I picked one up with the TFV8 I got a couple days ago and am really liking it as well. Great size, fit, and battery life and looks nice also.
.Of tanks you mentioned, I have the Griffin 25 and just got the TFV8. Both work great. On the Griffin, it comes with two plugs so you can build about anything you want on it. One plugs both the air and juice channels while the other plugs the juice channel, but leaves the air channel open for side flow air as well. I haven't had the chance to play with it though since the dual build is working just fine.
I just got the TFV8 a couple days ago, wicked the pre-installed claptons on the build deck, and find it very hard to put it down.
There are plenty of mods to pick from, but if you get the TFV8, I am finding the sweet spot to be at 125w (I never went above 85 before), so consider that when picking a mod. Even if you vape well below 100w, the battery life is nice on a 200w dual 18650 mod. I'll be able to hear the boo's, but I am liking the Sig or Fuchai 213. Then again, I tried TC and have reverted back to power mode for the most part. Another mod worth a look is the new IPV400. I picked one up with the TFV8 I got a couple days ago and am really liking it as well. Great size, fit, and battery life and looks nice also.
I have a question about the batteries on Eleaf. So it uses 18500 batts. I've read somewhere that if you use low ohm coils on some tanks and batts are below 25A it can explode. So on the market I see 20A 3000mAh and 25A 2600mAh. Which one is safer and better? I guess 25A 2600mAh?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok that helps alot. Thanks. And what to you think about those Efes batteries? Are they good or should I go with more expensive one?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pefect. Thats all I need to know. Better to spend couple $$$ more than end up without teeth. [emoji23]
Im even wondering how many amps has the battery in my Innokin Itaste MVP 3.0 pro. It is 4500mAh but usually I never go under 0.5 ohm coil. Not even that. Usually higher.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. Damn Im confused now. For example if you go very low on coil ohms like 0.15 or 0.20ohms which battery is going to be safer for high W vape 20A or 25A?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you're using a parallel dual box with two 20Amp batteries. In parallel I would add the total CDR of both batteries and multiply by your mods lowest cutoff voltage, since this is where the highest amps are drawn, to get total wattage. I will assume it's 3.2v.
40a×3.2=128w
Which is 64w per battery. With the 5% we will call it 121w or 60.5w per batt.
For series mods you will get the same answer taking the cutoff voltage 3.2 and multiplying by the number of batteries.
3.2x2 batteries is 6.4v
Then take the voltage and multiply it by the CDR rating of 20A
6.4vx20A=128w
40a×3.2=128w
Which is 64w per battery. With the 5% we will call it 121w or 60.5w per batt.
For series mods you will get the same answer taking the cutoff voltage 3.2 and multiplying by the number of batteries.
3.2x2 batteries is 6.4v
Then take the voltage and multiply it by the CDR rating of 20A
6.4vx20A=128w
Ok that helps. So that means no matter what is the coil ohms if I have 100W mod with 2 20A batteries I can basically vape at max 100W and I can still be safe? But I see its better if I have 2 25A batteries if I want to vape more than 128W what usually I never do.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A couple of things, the Istick 100w has a new software upgrade that will allow it to go up to 133w, meaning to factor that in she choosing batts, and I doubt you'll need much more power, it's a nice sized beast! I went with the Istick 200w merely because it was on sale for less than the 100w and I thought the extra runtime would be nice while on vacation.
Now for batteries, I'm a bit of a battery Nazi! If you get a multiple battery mod, label them in sets, two, three, whatever, in a manner YOU know how they go, and keep them married! Charge and discharge them equally and keep them together during their lifespan. Do not use them in other mods, do not break up the pairing mixing and matching them etc. Those batteries go with that mod until they die!
Secondly, unless you are planning to push things to the limit all the time, I'll suggest the Samsung LG HG2's for the runtime, that's what I got for my Istick 200w. Now if you want to crank it and amp it out blowing clouds everyday, get the Sanyo 25R's or Sony VCT4's for the higher amperage.
Now for batteries, I'm a bit of a battery Nazi! If you get a multiple battery mod, label them in sets, two, three, whatever, in a manner YOU know how they go, and keep them married! Charge and discharge them equally and keep them together during their lifespan. Do not use them in other mods, do not break up the pairing mixing and matching them etc. Those batteries go with that mod until they die!
Secondly, unless you are planning to push things to the limit all the time, I'll suggest the Samsung LG HG2's for the runtime, that's what I got for my Istick 200w. Now if you want to crank it and amp it out blowing clouds everyday, get the Sanyo 25R's or Sony VCT4's for the higher amperage.
Im still thinking between Eleaf 100W, Cuboid 150W or new Wismec RX2/3 that is coming out soon. They all look nice and probably all good.
Of that list, there would only be two serious contenders, I've no use for Wismec anymore (I know, part of Eleaf but they don't act like it!).
I have 4 of the Wismec RX200's, never had a problem with them.
I'm running a TFV4 on two, at 68.5 watts. A Uwell Crown with a NI 200 coil graces the other two.
- Status
Similar threads
