The three I currently have all leak slightly. After 1 day on a mod, ill remove the rsst and the 510 center pin on whatever mod will have a drop on it. Ive never had pooling. After a week of use, still only one drop. I guess I could try some insulators and o rings I have sitting around, but it...
That mesh deal on vaporjoes is pretty good. Purchased 3 12x12 400 mesh for 22.50 shipped. Cheapest ive seen in the US. They gaurantee perfect washed mesh with no crease or folds or damage of any kind. Hope they are a stand up company :)
I use aw imr and efest imr 18350's. On paper the aw's are slightly better, but I see no difference when vaping. They last the same amount of time and provide a similar vape.
Rsst is far easier to setup than the majority of genny's out there. You really dont have to worry about hotspots as much on rsst since it has an insulated wick hole. The wick hole and airhole is larger. It takes far less precision to get up and running.
For me an my noble I make a tight wrapped...
Agreed. I got my first paps and I was amazed. My second paps came in and the machining was even better. This 3rd paps I got in today was superb. I will definately be f5'ing for a lux edition. The flat top caps are beautiful. And im glad perseas keeps improving and adding. not enough modders do...
Not stock, but the 19 d9esnt either stock.
I cut my neg post in half and removed the spring. Added a brass flat top screw. All most all attys I use sit flush after modding.
So, if youre looking for a super compact 18350, sigelei isnt the way to go :)
If size matters another afordable option would be the ccts. This is mine with an 18350 inside.
Here is a paps beside the 19. I no longer have an 8 to compare to but the 8 is quite a bit taller than the paps also.
Paps is one of the smallest 18350 mods, and I can think 1 maybe 2 that is shorter off the top of my head, and only by a few mm.
Paps in 18650
I agree with you. The 19 looks great, but it performs pretty poorly stock. Its pretty sad that they would release a product in this state just to claim it is magnetic.
The copper spring is the easiest fix for 2 things.
1) The ease in which the button is pressed.
2) completing the circuit...
If you look at the pic, the spring around the post isnt contacting the post. Its floating around the post. The switch would push the spring into the post.
Lol. So thats the version 2 13b switch. Instead of eliminating the the source of the problem (spring) they turned the spring into that. Yay sigelei! Looks 10 times more hazardous to me. Press switch hard and push spring into negative post...
Do you think that they brain storm ideas to make...
So you have the 13b with the top/bottom switch from vaportek? Terrible switch in the 13b. The 13a has the same switch as the 8, but cant be used in top fire mode.
Not sure about your switch. Take a picture.
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