510 Atomizer Resurrection Mod!

[nj1001]

Well I performed this & my two attys that were reading zero are still cold & shot, still reading zero. I dunno how to press the coil well I guess (tried with a paper clip & twas a no-go). My other attys are now soaking in vodka to clean off the gunk since I haven't used them in quite a while & I usually drip VG & rarely drain them overnight (& I dnon't have PGA rocket fuel). I have an 801 that's reading 1.2 or something & dunno how possible it is to manipulate so far down the receded bridge. A while back my attys would crap out over the standard 2.4 range now, for whatever reason, they're dropping lower/the other way. The two I had reading zero were from hyper vaping at 6V fresh to get the funky tenacious nauseating primer fluid out of em & they crapped out on me- possibly with a subtle pop.
Since all i do is drip I'm gunna start removing the wicking material even on freshy attys cuz its only positive purpose is to wick from a cart & the list of cons is much more lengthy.
I am psyched, just wish I knew how to reattach the potentially severed coil. Maybe CTJeep could gimmie some pointers.
Thanks y'all,
NickJ

Also, I tried it on a perfectly functioning atty like a dumb-... & now its reading zero ohms too. So stupid of me, should've left a good thang alone!!!... well maybe just removed he wicking. Hope to find out how to resurrect it since it supposedly has 'continuity' to it.

 

[Roses]

I tried this on 3 attys... 2 VERY old ones that I bought back on Mar/Apr, and one newer one that had quit producing more than a mere wisp of vapor. The extremely old ones produced a little more but still sucked, but the newer one is going gangbusters. Wow. Just... wow...lol

 

[Scottbee]

I am wondering how levels of resistance in the atty would affect this treatment. I have attys that died with levels of 12-24+ & other attys that are dead with levels of 0-1. Does this only work if the resistance is high? Are dead attys with a resistance level of 0 due to popped coils that could be rectified by re-initiating contact?
Sorry, I just read many threads about dead attys talking about ohms of resistance being the sure-fire indicator/data that suggests they're in fact dead, yet nobody's mentioned any numbers yet.

If you have a reading of 0 Ohms the coil isn't "popped".. it has a dead short. Pretty rare based on my experience. If a coil "pops" it goes "open".. which is "infinite" Ohms. How that reads on a meter varies by the meter manufacturer.

 

[nj1001]

If you have a reading of 0 Ohms the coil isn't "popped".. it has a dead short. Pretty rare based on my experience. If a coil "pops" it goes "open".. which is "infinite" Ohms. How that reads on a meter varies by the meter manufacturer.

Hmmn, interesting. I feel like its been happening a bit, unless I'm simply misreading the infinite on my multimeter as zero, which would make sense. & if it is just a dead short what could I do then, short of tossing it to bring it back? I'll say I only vape at 6V too which may or may not have anything to do with it as a causative factor.
Thanks, Nj

 

[Kelemvor]

I really do believe my multimeter is giving a reading almost one ohm higher than it should as new KR808Ds I have reads from 4.1-4.6ohms

because of that you will have to measure the resistance of the meter alone 1st. and subtract the so measured value from the value of your atomizers.

otherwise, you willl always have other results than people that take the inner resistance of their equipment into account.

 

[kaaayd]

Thanks Frosty! I got a bad kit that burned my atties and I have brought 2 back to life so far. I tried cleaning them many times and they would heat up a little, but would only produce one drag of vapor. So far the 2 I brought back work almost like new. You just saved my broke ... some money!

 

[voltaire]

I don't have any attys to try this with yet, but I will try it when I do. Just want to point out that removing the bridge/mesh is almost certainly not necessary. It's the removal of the wick material that's the "active ingredient" to this procedure. For details, see here:
http://www.youtube.com/v/Ap1c4EwKRAY&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999

The reason this would work is because the gunk that builds up between the wick and the coil causes all/most/part of the coil to no longer get hot, or just doesn't allow liquid to come in contact with it.

I've removed the wick from new working attys and not noticed any decrease in vapor while still using carts and not dripping. My theory is that the wick isn't really necessary to produce vapor, it's main purpose is just to MORE QUICKLY deliver juice to the coil. If you don't constantly take drag after drag, it isn't critical.

So if you're a slow vaper, you could benefit from removing the wick from the get-go, and thus significantly delay the coil from getting fouled up with gunk. And if you leave the bridge/mesh in place, you can still use carts when vaping slowly, and if you feel like vaping quickly, then just simply drip when you do.

PS (edit): The guy in the vid says that the wick is made of nylon and it burns - it's not and it doesn't. It's either fiberglass or silica, so it doesn't burn. But it traps the gunk (which is what burns) against the coil, which is what "kills" the atty.

 

[DC2]

I don't have any attys to try this with yet, but I will try it when I do. Just want to point out that removing the bridge/mesh is almost certainly not necessary. It's the removal of the wick material that's the "active ingredient" to this procedure. For details, see here:
http://www.youtube.com/v/Ap1c4EwKRAY&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999

The reason this would work is because the gunk that builds up between the wick and the coil causes all/most/part of the coil to no longer get hot, or just doesn't allow liquid to come in contact with it.

I've removed the wick from new working attys and not noticed any decrease in vapor while still using carts and not dripping. My theory is that the wick isn't really necessary to produce vapor, it's main purpose is just to MORE QUICKLY deliver juice to the coil. If you don't constantly take drag after drag, it isn't critical.

So if you're a slow vaper, you could benefit from removing the wick from the get-go, and thus significantly delay the coil from getting fouled up with gunk. And if you leave the bridge/mesh in place, you can still use carts when vaping slowly, and if you feel like vaping quickly, then just simply drip when you do.

PS (edit): The guy in the vid says that the wick is made of nylon and it burns - it's not and it doesn't. It's either fiberglass or silica, so it doesn't burn. But it traps the gunk (which is what burns) against the coil, which is what "kills" the atty.

That makes a lot of sense.

 

[grabeard]

Hi DC2, how long does it take to get your Chuck after you order it? I have emailed on their site but get no answer.
Thanks,
grabeard

 

[DC2]

Hi DC2, how long does it take to get your Chuck after you order it? I have emailed on their site but get no answer.
Thanks,
grabeard

He is usually running about two weeks for customized graphics.

He's a really busy guy, so his customers like to help him out.
So any questions you might have, you could ask in this subforum...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/thag-built-chuck/

 

[four2109]

I was skeptical, and reluctant to mess with a functional atty, since I don't drip that often.
I had 2 old E-Cigarette atty's that I got from DX for parts. One worked poorly, as they do and the other not at all. Being protruding they were much easier for my old eyes to experiment with. I had not bothered to check either with a voltmeter.

They both work fine now, not great because they seem to have a cheaper, smaller coil, but definately better than I would have expected.

The fibers went to the outside ring of mesh so the bridge (which was to high and thin) would have had to be flooded to ever get juice to the coil. On the one that had not worked at all, I think the mesh between the pot and the band was too tight to allow the juice to flow in and be wicked.

So I have two more backups. I'll use them occasionaly to see how long they last.
I would not recommend this for use with automatic batteries.
Hmmm, Where is Tinear....? This frees up lots of space for the Fang!

 

[Extremeodd]

Well I did it to an older 801 that was reading 5ohm, seemed to work the same but I blew the f'in coil heating it up a bit since I noticed only the very middle was glowing, then the slag stuff on the end started glowing then POP gone. Oh well, got like 5 more heavily used ones to mess with. All I did to the one that blew was remove the bridge (couldnt reach the wick) to see the coil. The center of the coil was clean the outer edges had balls of nasty on it.

 

[HappyCamper]

On Dec. 10... my TW 510 mega kit arrived (3 mega batts, 3 atty's)... tried the straw mod, DUH!!! I broke a new atty before I even used it!!! Actually, I MANGLED the thing!
I stored it away til I could figure out what to do with it.
2 weeks ago...When I read this thread I gave it a try.
This is my favorite atty on my pass thru, it is my buddy, I am in love with the strong throat hit and calmness that I get (like the first ciggy in the morning).
I named him Fred, when Fred dies I will make me another one just like him, I will use a new atty if I have to... I love my Fred!!!

 

[Morgus]

seems like with the coil exposed it leaves room for alot of great mods, i think ima try hooking up a glass tube with eliquid to see how that works first. ill post if i get anything that works

 

[clyde2801]

1. It's been postulated on this thread that the wicking messing up is what's causing a lot of these attys to go cold.

2. The juice box design has an atty with special sauce, reengineered to remove certain parts that cause an atty to fail.

3. The juice box design uses the special delivery system to deliver very fine amounts of juice to the atty. I'm speculating that it would work similar to dripping.

Does anyone think that this could be the (or part of the) special sauce that carlos uses for his super duper attys? I've got a box full of dead 510's that are awaiting surgery tomorrow. Great find!

 

[DWTaylor]

I just did it to a dead atomizer on my volcano. oh my god it does vaper now. I mean real vaper.

 

[stgardner]

I managed to revive one of four 510 atty's I had ready to toss. When trying this fix, I screwed two of them up pulling too hard with my tweezers & the other just wouldn't fix. But, on the one that did, instead of the starting 2.5ohm resistance it had when new (which is great at 3.7 volt), it is now around 3.5ohm, which is incredibly awesome at 5V on the Prodigy V2. I'm just glad to have one of the four work. I'm waiting on an order and need this one as a spare. So, I thought. Instead it is my main atty for now as it vapes awesome. The story on this atty was it would hiss slightly on charged batteries but no vapor at all, so I figured it was dead. Not now!

Thank you so much for this great find.

Scott

 

[deftdrummer1]

Yes this will make a "dead" 510 a dripping machine. Just drip 2-3 drops directly on the exposed coil. It seems there is definately sufficient mesh around and under the ceramic pot therefore it holds 2-3 drops very well. I haven't had many problems with leaks at all.

Is your avatar from the movie Baraka?

 

[JamBandPhan]

I am sooooo glad I found this thread, and wish I has seen it sooner, I must have tossed at least 5-6 atty's that were getting hot, but not producing vapor. Now I know better, and I also discovered that if you are careful, you can split the mesh either in the middle, or on one side, and push it out of the way to remove the bridge, and then when you are done cleaning it up, push the mesh back to the middle, which gives you a bit of a wick again, and a place to drip. Though, it is not needed, it seems to work fine with out anything over the coil, but I like having something to drip on to. I had no idea the coils were getting that gunked up, and now I understand how these atomizers work, better than I did before I tore open to see inside. I also read somewhere that using one of those sonic wave jewelry cleaners will help get the deep down residue out of the coils. I have just ordered one, and will test this out to see if it's true. Might be another way to clean your atty before you have to go tearing it apart. Rinsing them and soaking them doesn't seem to do much for the deep down gunk, so I hope the jewelry cleaner makes a difference.

I give this thread an A+++++ and this should become common knowledge for everyone who buys these things. I have spent so much $ just jacking around with these e cigs, and using VG to vape has clogged up most of my atty's. It will be nice to know I can stretch the use of them longer than I thought I would be able to.

After working on a couple more of these repairs, I think the most important part is getting the coils clean, sorry if this has already been stated, as this is a really long thread and I have read a lot today.

 

[DC2]

I also read somewhere that using one of those sonic wave jewelry cleaners will help get the deep down residue out of the coils.

Looking forward to seeing your results.