Before attempting this mod on a “dead” atomizer, make sure it is not truly dead and cold. Put a battery on an atomizer you believe is dead, activate the battery and make sure the atomizer is able to get warm. Or, if you’re able, use a multimeter and ensure the atomizer still has continuity.
Also, with this mod you will NOT be able to use filled carts, yet the dripping experience is AMAZING
Almost two months ago one of my 510 atomizers from TW died a “natural” death. For three weeks the performance of the atomizer dropped at a fairly steady rate until the end of the third week. Then it would not produce vapor at all, yet it still produced heat.
I tried a number of different methods to bring the atomizer back to life such as baths in ISP alcohol 91%, Crest Pro Health, Everclear, and distilled water but nothing worked. One night while in a video chat someone suggested I should take a safety pin and push it up through the hole in the battery end of the atomizer at an angle aiming for the sides of the ceramic pot (I know I saw a post of this method on ECF somewhere, once I find it again I’ll link it) After all this, the atomizer was still seemingly dead, yet my multimeter showed the atomizer still had continuity. So I decided to try out something I had been thinking of the first time I clearly saw the internal components of a 510 atomizer. And the end result was astounding to say the least! That TW atomizer is now on its 43 day of perfect performance, after its death!
Ok here it goes… (oh and sorry for the focus
I really need a new camera)
Step 1:
Step 2: Remove the atomizer bridge
Pushing this mesh to the side will make it much easier to remove the atomizer bridge which you remove by rocking it side to side a bit while pulling. Actually I was quite rough when I first did this. There was no gentleness to my touch whatsoever as this atomizer had me thoroughly ...... off. But I’d suggest others use a gentle approach.
Step 3: Removing steel mesh and fiberglass
After the bridge is removed you are free to start plucking away at all those nasty little pieces of fiberglass as well as the steel mesh which was resting on top of the atomizer bridge. In the end (depending on the model of 510) you will have pulled something like this out of your atomizer…
And you end up with an atomizer which looks like this…
That is the atomizer I’ve been using almost every time I vape and it has been working like a champ for approximately 52 days so far. I've done this method on three 510s so far; two Joye and one DSE/SLB and they all vape like a volcano.
I really suggest you only try this on atomizers that you believe are dead (yet still have continuity/produce heat) because there is always the possibility you could break the glue holing all the components of the atomizer and end up with a hopeless mess.
I hope this works as well for others has it has for me. I’ll post updates on the performance of my modded TW atomizer. I’m very interested to see how long it will keep working. I will also try a similar technique on all applicable atomizers I can get my hands on and post as soon as I’m able to give them a good test.
Good luck!
Also, with this mod you will NOT be able to use filled carts, yet the dripping experience is AMAZING
Almost two months ago one of my 510 atomizers from TW died a “natural” death. For three weeks the performance of the atomizer dropped at a fairly steady rate until the end of the third week. Then it would not produce vapor at all, yet it still produced heat.
I tried a number of different methods to bring the atomizer back to life such as baths in ISP alcohol 91%, Crest Pro Health, Everclear, and distilled water but nothing worked. One night while in a video chat someone suggested I should take a safety pin and push it up through the hole in the battery end of the atomizer at an angle aiming for the sides of the ceramic pot (I know I saw a post of this method on ECF somewhere, once I find it again I’ll link it) After all this, the atomizer was still seemingly dead, yet my multimeter showed the atomizer still had continuity. So I decided to try out something I had been thinking of the first time I clearly saw the internal components of a 510 atomizer. And the end result was astounding to say the least! That TW atomizer is now on its 43 day of perfect performance, after its death!
Ok here it goes… (oh and sorry for the focus
I really need a new camera)Step 1:
Step 2: Remove the atomizer bridge
Pushing this mesh to the side will make it much easier to remove the atomizer bridge which you remove by rocking it side to side a bit while pulling. Actually I was quite rough when I first did this. There was no gentleness to my touch whatsoever as this atomizer had me thoroughly ...... off. But I’d suggest others use a gentle approach.
Step 3: Removing steel mesh and fiberglass
After the bridge is removed you are free to start plucking away at all those nasty little pieces of fiberglass as well as the steel mesh which was resting on top of the atomizer bridge. In the end (depending on the model of 510) you will have pulled something like this out of your atomizer…
And you end up with an atomizer which looks like this…
That is the atomizer I’ve been using almost every time I vape and it has been working like a champ for approximately 52 days so far. I've done this method on three 510s so far; two Joye and one DSE/SLB and they all vape like a volcano.
I really suggest you only try this on atomizers that you believe are dead (yet still have continuity/produce heat) because there is always the possibility you could break the glue holing all the components of the atomizer and end up with a hopeless mess.
I hope this works as well for others has it has for me. I’ll post updates on the performance of my modded TW atomizer. I’m very interested to see how long it will keep working. I will also try a similar technique on all applicable atomizers I can get my hands on and post as soon as I’m able to give them a good test.
Good luck!
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