510 XL CE2 + SS400 wick = Awesome

[Robert T]

Hey Dan, great work this! I'm on my second build of the poor mans Genesis, my first one came in a 3.9 ohms and was o.k. at around 7 v. The one I'm using now is 2.7 ohms and wow! Great flavor and vapor production all the way to the end of the juice and didn't turn dark until the very end. I'm on my second refill and going strong! I put mine in a MAP tank so the wick bent a little when I put it through the bottom cap but if makes a difference I can't tell. No burnt taste and wicks better than the standard wick. This is a great mod to the CE 2 and since I like the new wick less than the looped wick I won't be buying anymore, I have a lifetime supply I think and I've saved all the dead ones because I could see that they could be easily rebuilt. I just hadn't thought to use Raidys design to do it. Thanks Dan!

BTW, how's your version of the Genesis working out? I thought it looked sweet! I have a friend that is a retired machinist and I'm going to talk with him about making something similar, I like your design.

Robert

 

[Scubabatdan]

Hey Dan, great work this! I'm on my second build of the poor mans Genesis, my first one came in a 3.9 ohms and was o.k. at around 7 v. The one I'm using now is 2.7 ohms and wow! Great flavor and vapor production all the way to the end of the juice and didn't turn dark until the very end. I'm on my second refill and going strong! I put mine in a MAP tank so the wick bent a little when I put it through the bottom cap but if makes a difference I can't tell. No burnt taste and wicks better than the standard wick. This is a great mod to the CE 2 and since I like the new wick less than the looped wick I won't be buying anymore, I have a lifetime supply I think and I've saved all the dead ones because I could see that they could be easily rebuilt. I just hadn't thought to use Raidys design to do it. Thanks Dan!

BTW, how's your version of the Genesis working out? I thought it looked sweet! I have a friend that is a retired machinist and I'm going to talk with him about making something similar, I like your design.

Robert

COOL!

I just finshed the major parts of SCUBAGEN v3 and dry fitted it together. Here she is:


TADA! just need to drill a few holes, and do the wiring!
Dan

 

[Silent Soldier]

This is essential IMO for soldering nichrome:
Rubyfluid Flux Soldering Paste - BLICK art materials
Guess I should have posted this earlier
I use this with rosin core silver solder. Be careful this contains Zinc chloride and is corrosive and can causes burns.
Dan

I wasn't going to spend any more money but since i found that rubyfluid flux on amazon for $1.11 a can, I picked up 2 of them.

 

[Mudflap]

COOL!

I just finshed the major parts of SCUBAGEN v3 and dry fitted it together. Here she is:
View attachment 38186View attachment 38187


TADA! just need to drill a few holes, and do the wiring!
Dan

That's looks really clean. Unless you're gonna provide me with some of your creations to vape, I'm gonna have to ask you to stop posting.



Nicely done.

 

[Scubabatdan]

That's looks really clean. Unless you're gonna provide me with some of your creations to vape, I'm gonna have to ask you to stop posting.



Nicely done.

Thanks,
Well if all goes well, I will be donating a couple to VapeStock for door prizes
LOL too funny...
Dan

 

[Robert T]

COOL!

I just finshed the major parts of SCUBAGEN v3 and dry fitted it together. Here she is:
View attachment 38186View attachment 38187

TADA! just need to drill a few holes, and do the wiring!
Dan

OMG! You're a constant source of amazement! On a side note I just put the Poor Man on a 5 volt and it.....rocks! Maybe I'll be going to VapeStock just to see this creation in person. Just wear the cowboy hat and a huge cloud of vapor, I'll find you.......

 

[Silent Soldier]

Unfortunately it looks like I won't be going to vapestock next month. Hell, I'll be lucky if i even have a place to live next month

 

[Robert T]

I hate to hear that, saw you in a photo in the vapestock thread. I hope things get better, seriously!

Robert

 

[drewk302]

Scuba,
I have a couple questions, maybe you can help me if you dont mind. I cant for the life of me get my rolls as tight as yours. I get them somewhat tight, is that going o have a major effect on how well the ss mesh will absorb and wick the juice?

The next issue I have ran into, I tried a 2 strand (medusa) with both wicks rolled close to the same. I wrapped the coil tight, but when I install into the cup it seems to loosen the coil after squeezing into the cup. I tried to make it tighter using a pick and so on. I put it on my pv and but some juice on the coil and wick, but when I fire it, 1st it seems to glow at the solder spot, then after a few, 1 coil will glow. I did let it get almost dry to test and see if more coils would glow but didnt. I am not sure why, the coil that glows, glows VERY bright and hot. I kept trying pressing it off and on 5 sec each time or so. I blew the coil, witch I expected but wanted to see if all coils would get hot. Its obviously making contact between the pos and neg. (2.6ohm @4v) This is my 2nd coil thats done this. My biggest concern is the tightness of the mesh roll though, I keep practicing though.

Lastly (sorry) any tips on getting the center post back through the connector fitting? Once it popps out, I always have a heck of a time getting it back in, if I even can without ruining the rubber gasket ( I tried spitting all over the thing, and still couldnt) Thanks alot, and sorry for the long post. Your ideas are great and you are a great help!

 

[asdaq]

The loosening of the coil sounds like the wick is tighter and smaller when installed in the holes as opposed to when wrapped, which might be fixed by having a mock holder of some sorts when winding the coil on the mesh in a bent position.

The glow you describes sounds very much like the coil is shorting the wick, where the glowing stops. Moving the coil away from that point with a toothpick or tweezers can solve that problem.

As for the gasket, putting the gasket in the connector 1st and then gently popping in the post seems least stressful, but they do rip easily and lube helps too.

 

[drewk302]

That makes sense, I will try that. I tried putting the gasket in 1st and it kept falling out, I did put spit on it. Since then I have been trying to install it while its on the center shaft and killing the gaskets. I will revert to the method you described and go from there. It also makes sense, what you said about the coil shorting on the wick, I will have to check that. I didnt realize, but when I built my 1st one, I decided to test it in a ce2 tube and quickly learned that the mesh is conductive. Thanks for the tips. I will post results.

 

[drewk302]

I didnt spend much time on it, but wanted to say that putting the gasket in 1st and alittle slobber worked like a charm, I fixed the coil. Now I just have to solder the neg leg back on. I been running around so I didnt get to do that part yet. Thanks.

 

[drewk302]

Ok I am pretty good at soldering ( very rarely have issues) But I cant for the life of me get the neg wire to solder. There wasnt enough solder leftover to smere the wire in. I bought lead free solder and it wont stick for nothing, with or without my lead free flux. When I bought this solder from the shack they had, silver solder, resin core, and the lead free, no silver resin core. The one I got was the only one that had lead free anywhere on it. I tried every spot on the connector, every soldering technique that I know and it just wont stick. Grrrrrrrr I have spent so much time on this wire, I am sure I am going to have to try another solder. It did solder the pos wire, it wasnt a nice clean solder dab, but its fine, and holds. Any tips, other than new solder?

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok I am pretty good at soldering ( very rarely have issues) But I cant for the life of me get the neg wire to solder. There wasnt enough solder leftover to smere the wire in. I bought lead free solder and it wont stick for nothing, with or without my lead free flux. When I bought this solder from the shack they had, silver solder, resin core, and the lead free, no silver resin core. The one I got was the only one that had lead free anywhere on it. I tried every spot on the connector, every soldering technique that I know and it just wont stick. Grrrrrrrr I have spent so much time on this wire, I am sure I am going to have to try another solder. It did solder the pos wire, it wasnt a nice clean solder dab, but its fine, and holds. Any tips, other than new solder?

Clean the soldering iron real good, no solder on it. Let it heat all the way up (let it sit for 5 min) hold it to the ouside of the connector while touching the solder to the inside. Once it melts the solder it should stick to the inside wall of the connector. At this time move the neg wire to the pooled solder on the inside and melt it into the pooled solder.

Never go solder to iron - iron to part
Always go iron to part - solder to part
Hope this helps.
Dan

 

[drewk302]

Thanks Dan. Thats how I usually do it. I have been trying to solder the neg leg while fully assembled, maybe thats the problem. I cant heat it from the inside this way. I do think that the solder may be an issue also, when I went to rat shack I was more concerned with saftey of the solder and just eyeballed the thickness real quick, its prob 2-3x thicker than the wire, witch really should be ok but my iron will only melt it if I put it way above the tip. I will give it a good scrub and try it disassembled. Thanks for the tips you are a great help.

 

[drewk302]

Ok I got it soldered and same results as my 3 or 4 others that I built. The whole coil will not glow. I got rolling pretty good, the coil is nice and even and it wont glow. Now I test in hand and wet the coil but kept heating until coils blew ( Kind of on purpose to test ) If I wiggle the coil and ss wick the sound changes, meaning coil will kind of flash-ish. I can only think its the solder where the wire meets the nichchrome, it doesnt sit flush in the bottom of the cup. I would think even still, having the ends on each side soldered ( the pos and neg to coil ) would have to heat the whole coil as seeing that it heats even I coil shows contact????

p.s. sorry to be a pain and keep asking for help so much, just to get 1 built perfectly. Every time I touch nichchrome wire, its so small I have issues, I have shaky hands ( I had a stroke at 28yrs old ) and its TINY! Thanks for your patients.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok dry, the coil should glow, wet it should produce vapor but not glow anywhere. If it does patially glow then the coil is shorting to the SS. Are you cutting a piece of nichrome, J hooking it and attaching the leads, and then wrapping it around the SS? or are you wrapping it aroung the SS and then trying to solder? The first way is best as you have no protrusions and the solder point are right next to the SS, the other way you get legs and it does not alow the coil to sit flush in the cup. I.E. it should look like this:


Notice the wire on the second pic, it is ready to wrap around the SS, the leads have already been J hook soldered. This is how I recommend doing it, not wrapping around the SS and then soldering the leads on.

Hope this helps.
Dan

 

[drewk302]

I tried it both ways. Although when I wrapped it and installed it, when pulling the wire through the slot it broke off so while it was wrapped I j hooked it and resoldered it. If i wiggle or mess with he coil it will glow, but the whole thing flickers. Think I need to take it apart and re wrap? I got the ss mesh rolled pretty good, but you showed that you fold 1 end and then roll...I didnt do that.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Here is an alternate method:
Solder the end of your lead wire so about 3/16" is showing. Then wrap the end of the nichrome aroung the lead wire about 2-3 wraps. The bend the lead wire like you would with the j hook and crimp it onto the coiled nichrome. The do a quick solder touch to encase the nichrome. Since it is coiled a couple time it will not pull loose. The wrap as usual.


Of course this was for somthing I was using as a leg, so make sure the insulation is next to the solder point.
Dan

 

[drewk302]

Thanks for the help Dan, I am gonna try that out.